Sunday, April 12, 2026

With Love by Fred Hayman (1991)

“…with Love” by Fred Hayman was introduced in 1991 in association with Parlux, at a moment when fragrance was becoming increasingly personal, expressive, and emotionally driven. Fred Hayman himself was a pivotal figure in American luxury retail, often referred to as the “Father of Rodeo Drive,” having transformed Rodeo Drive into an international symbol of glamour and exclusivity. Through his boutique Giorgio Beverly Hills and subsequent ventures, Hayman cultivated a world where fashion, celebrity culture, and scent converged—making his foray into perfumery a natural extension of his brand of aspirational elegance.

The name “…with Love” reads not as a conventional perfume title, but as a closing sentiment—intimate, handwritten, and deeply personal. It evokes the final line of a letter, a gesture of affection that lingers after the message itself has been delivered. In choosing this name, Hayman framed the fragrance as a “love letter” to his clientele—an acknowledgment of loyalty, glamour, and shared history. It suggests gratitude, warmth, and emotional connection rather than mere luxury, positioning the perfume as something given, rather than simply sold. The ellipsis preceding “with Love” adds a poetic pause, as though the sentiment emerges softly, trailing from an unspoken narrative.

The phrase “…with Love” carries universal emotional resonance. It conjures images of handwritten correspondence, sealed envelopes, and intimate exchanges—moments of tenderness preserved in time. It suggests romance, nostalgia, sincerity, and devotion. There is also an understated elegance to the phrase; it is neither overtly passionate nor excessively sentimental, but instead refined and quietly expressive. In olfactory terms, such a name prepares the wearer for a fragrance that feels enveloping, personal, and emotionally evocative—something that lingers close to the skin like a memory.

The early 1990s marked a transitional era in both fashion and perfumery. Emerging from the bold, opulent aesthetic of the 1980s—characterized by power dressing, strong shoulders, and assertive, statement fragrances—the new decade began to soften. Minimalism, sensuality, and a more introspective femininity came to the forefront. Designers such as Calvin Klein and Donna Karan promoted cleaner lines and a more natural silhouette, while in perfumery there was a gradual shift toward luminous florals, transparent compositions, and emotionally themed scents. This period is often regarded as a bridge between the bold “power fragrance” era of the late 1970s and 1980s and the fresh, minimalist, and sometimes aquatic revolution that would fully emerge by the mid-1990s.



Within this context, “…with Love” would have resonated strongly with women seeking both elegance and emotional authenticity. The name itself offered a sense of intimacy that contrasted with the overt glamour and status-driven messaging of the previous decade. For women of the time, wearing “…with Love” could feel like carrying a personal message—an invisible signature that expressed warmth, romance, and individuality. It aligned with a growing desire for fragrances that were not just statements of presence, but reflections of inner sentiment.

Ultimately, “…with Love” can be understood as both a product of its time and a timeless gesture. It bridged the glamour of Fred Hayman’s Beverly Hills legacy with a softer, more personal mode of expression, encapsulating a moment when perfumery began to speak less about power and more about connection—signed, quite simply, “…with love.”


The Beginning:

Fred Hayman openly acknowledged the challenge of recapturing the extraordinary success that had once defined his name. Reflecting on his earlier triumph, he admitted with candor, "Something like Giorgio happens once in a lifetime." There was a palpable shift in identity—from the widely recognized persona of "Mr. Giorgio" to a more uncertain reception as himself. "When I was 'Mr. Giorgio', everybody knew me. Now that I'm Fred Hayman, it's 'Who's he?'" he remarked, revealing both humility and determination. His objective, however, was not rooted in vanity but in survival within an increasingly competitive market: "I have to make the name Fred Hayman become just as well known, not out of ego, but for business." In this context, …with Love was more than a fragrance—it was a deliberate reintroduction, a carefully composed statement of identity.

The perfume itself was positioned as an emotional and aesthetic response to the cultural climate of the early 1990s. Its narrative leaned into romance and sensuality, described evocatively as: "Enjoy a return to romance with the new fragrance..with Love by Fred Hayman. Sensual and elegant..with Love begins with vibrant fruity floral notes and diffuses into a beautiful semi-oriental bouquet that lingers seductively on the skin." Hayman’s personal philosophy intertwined seamlessly with the fragrance’s concept. "I believe in love," he stated, grounding the perfume in his own lived experience. "I've been married three times and I'm in love right now. I'm in love with my business. I'm in love with my woman. I'm in love with my kids. I think..with Love is today. It's the '90s. It's a return to romance and femininity." His words framed the scent not merely as a product, but as a reflection of emotional authenticity—an embodiment of love in its many forms.

This perspective aligned with broader industry sentiment. Annette Green, executive director of the Fragrance Foundation in New York, affirmed the cultural shift: "We're in a romantic mode," she observed, noting that "the mood of the consuming public is escapism, monogamy and all those things." The emergence of fragrances such as Spellbound and Escape reinforced this collective turn toward intimacy and emotional storytelling. In this environment, …with Love resonated as part of a larger movement—one that sought to soften the assertive excess of the previous decade and replace it with something more personal, more evocative.

Yet Hayman was not blind to the realities of modern fragrance marketing. Taking cues from the provocative campaigns of the era, he embraced sensual imagery, commissioning photographer Phil Dixon to capture the fragrance’s advertisements on the beaches of Malibu. The resulting images were reportedly "so hot that a couple of stores won't run them." Hayman defended the approach without hesitation: "There's nothing wrong with the erotic. This fragrance is about romantic love, yes, but it is total love. Sensual as well. And what motivates most people is sex...after all." Still, even as he acknowledged the power of visual seduction, he maintained a clear distinction between product and promotion.

Indeed, Hayman expressed a measured skepticism toward the increasingly spectacle-driven nature of the perfume industry. "I want to be known for the perfume, not the campaign," he insisted, deliberately choosing to invest only modestly compared to the extravagant budgets of competing launches. He criticized the saturation of the market with striking clarity: "The number of scents introduced each year is absolutely ridiculous, absolutely mind-boggling. People are no longer buying a fragrance - they're buying a campaign. It's like buying a blazer without even looking at it." While acknowledging the marketing prowess of figures like Calvin Klein, he questioned the balance between substance and spectacle: "I wonder if he sells a great fragrance or a great campaign." Hayman positioned himself in quiet opposition to this trend, uninterested in courting consumers drawn solely to glossy imagery.

Instead, he envisioned a more discerning audience—one guided by emotion and appreciation rather than hype. "I'm looking for the person who loves, who has emotions, who understands the difference between Fred Hayman's fragrance and many of the other fragrances in the marketplace." This philosophy extended to distribution, where exclusivity remained central. By limiting availability to select locations such as his Beverly Hills boutique and certain Nordstrom stores, Hayman preserved the aura that had once defined Giorgio. "When I was selling Giorgio, it was exclusive and limited," he explained, recalling a time when access itself was part of the allure.

The pricing of …with Love reinforced this positioning. At $300 an ounce, it occupied a rarefied space between iconic luxury fragrances such as Coco and Chanel No. 5, intended not as an impulse purchase but as "a major gift." Smaller formats—such as the quarter-ounce parfum at $95 and a 2.5-ounce spray cologne at $60—offered entry points, yet the overall strategy remained aspirational. This approach, however, unfolded against the backdrop of economic uncertainty. Hayman acknowledged the difficulty of launching a high-priced fragrance during a recession, noting that business had been "very, very difficult," particularly as even affluent consumers felt the strain.

In the end, …with Love emerges as a deeply personal endeavor—part reinvention, part statement, and part emotional offering. It reflects a moment when Fred Hayman sought not only to reestablish his name, but to reconnect with the very essence of what fragrance could represent: intimacy, memory, and the enduring power of sentiment—signed, quite simply, …with love.


Making the Scent:


The phrase “…with Love,” when translated into scent, suggests something intimate, enveloping, and deeply emotive—an olfactory gesture that lingers like the closing line of a personal letter. Interpreted through its classification as a floral-animalic chypre, the fragrance becomes a balance between softness and sensuality: the brightness of a fruity opening gives way to a floral heart that feels familiar and romantic, before settling into a warm, ambery base that clings to the skin with quiet persistence. It is not a fleeting composition, but one designed to remain—echoing the emotional resonance of its name. In this sense, “…with Love” is less about sharp innovation and more about evoking closeness, memory, and a kind of tactile warmth, as though the fragrance itself were a physical expression of affection.

Within the context of the early 1990s, this structure was both aligned with prevailing trends and subtly individual in its intent. The period was marked by a transition away from the bold, assertive power fragrances of the 1980s toward compositions that emphasized sensuality, romance, and emotional connection. Fruity florals layered over warm, musky or ambery bases were increasingly popular, and the inclusion of a semi-oriental softness placed “…with Love” squarely within this evolving aesthetic. Yet its animalic undertone and chypre foundation lent it a slightly more classic, European sensibility—anchoring it in tradition while still appealing to contemporary tastes. It did not seek to shock or radically redefine perfumery, but rather to refine and reinterpret familiar themes in a way that felt personal and enduring.

The fragrance itself was developed by perfumer Gerard Goupy of Robertet and described as “fruity, floral, vaguely Oriental - and designed to linger,” a phrase that underscores its intention as a skin scent with presence and persistence. Remarkably, some 350 ingredients were used in its construction, reflecting a level of complexity that mirrors Hayman’s own philosophy of creation. He likened perfume-making to culinary art: “with both, you're looking for the right proportions out of thousands of possibilities. You want it to make a statement, be sensuous, strong but not too strong, yet have its own signature.” This analogy captures the delicate balance required—where even the smallest adjustment could disrupt the harmony. As he noted, the industry itself was unforgiving: “a crazy business and one of the most difficult. Sometimes you think you come so close but you add a little more of one ingredient and it falls to pieces.”

This fragility of composition was illustrated in his recounting of a failed formula developed over two years. “He had been working so long that he flew to Milan to present it to me when he found what he thought was the clincher. But I had to tell him it didn't work. He had been working in closed conditions in the lab.” The anecdote highlights the essential gap between laboratory perfection and real-world wearability—a gap Hayman sought to bridge through consumer testing. In fact, “…with Love” itself underwent revision; by 1993, its top note was reworked after disappointing sales. “It didn't sell,” Hayman admitted candidly, adding, “people aren't patient when they test a fragrance.” This speaks to the immediate, almost instinctive nature of fragrance selection in the marketplace, where first impressions often determine success.

To refine the fragrance beyond the confines of the lab, Hayman relied on his VIP Fragrance Panel, a group of sixteen “distinguished women” whose insights shaped the final composition. Their process was both analytical and experiential: evaluating blotter strips, discussing “top, mid and base notes,” and wearing the scent socially to observe reactions. This blend of technical critique and lived experience allowed the fragrance to be “edited” in a way that aligned with real-world perception. The panel included figures such as Patti Skouras, Tawny Little, Jean Kasem, Altovise Davis, Maureen Dean, and Beverly Sassoon, whose approval lent credibility and refinement. As Skouras remarked, “I didn't feel I had to switch to 273, but I adore '...with Love'. It's wonderful.” Yet even with such endorsement, Hayman remained pragmatic: “You never know until people buy it.”

Press materials emphasized the fragrance’s sensual complexity: “This sensual, semi-oriental bouquet is a complex balance of florals, woodiness and warmth.” The interplay of sparkling fruit notes with a rich floral core and a lingering, musky base was designed to create both immediate appeal and lasting depth. Hayman himself distilled its essence into an emotional narrative, describing it as “captured intimacy, seductiveness and, of course, love.” In this way, “…with Love” becomes more than a composition—it is an atmosphere, a mood, and a message conveyed through scent.

Ultimately, while “…with Love” did not radically depart from the olfactory trends of its time, it distinguished itself through its emotional framing and meticulous construction. It embodied the early 1990s shift toward romance and sensuality, yet retained a classical backbone that gave it depth and longevity. In scent, as in sentiment, “…with Love” was designed to linger—softly, persistently, and unmistakably personal.


Launch:


“…with Love” was introduced with the kind of theatrical elegance that had long defined Fred Hayman’s approach to luxury—an experience as carefully orchestrated as the fragrance itself. Initially available only at his legendary boutique at 273 Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, the scent made its debut in May 9, 1991 at a glittering, highly curated celebration that blurred the line between retail launch and society spectacle. The store was transformed into a luminous, almost dreamlike setting: red balloons floated above guests, gold glitter shimmered in the air, and opulent details—caviar, Dom Pérignon champagne, and an array of Wolfgang Puck’s signature pizzas—set the tone for an evening of indulgence. Rich red tulip centerpieces punctuated the space, adding a sensual contrast to the metallic gold accents that defined the event’s visual identity.

The atmosphere was alive with layered sound and movement, creating a multisensory experience that echoed the emotional complexity of the fragrance itself. A mariachi band heralded arrivals with bursts of brass, while inside, the refined elegance of the Murray Korda Strings mingled with unexpected performances. Waiters, moving seamlessly through the crowd, would suddenly break into operatic arias—snippets from Porgy and Bess and Italian opera—transforming the act of service into performance art. Later, Billy Davis Jr. and Marilyn McCoo brought a more familiar warmth with their melodies, while the tune “Wouldn’t It Be Loverly?” floated through the space, weaving together nostalgia and romance. Above it all, golden paper stars drifted down like snowflakes, settling onto a black-tie crowd dressed in accordance with the evening’s directive: “very gold tie.” Even the exterior of the boutique became part of the spectacle, with troubadours sounding brass from the balcony and women in gold catsuits positioned dramatically on the roof.

The guest list reflected Hayman’s deep ties to Hollywood, society, and industry, reinforcing the exclusivity and allure of the occasion. Paparazzi captured arrivals such as Prince Frederick von Anhalt and Zsa Zsa Gabor, Marilyn McCoo and Billy Davis Jr., Mary Hart and Burt Sugarman, Jacqueline Bisset, Lee Iacocca, Charlton and Lydia Heston, and Ricardo Montalban, among many others. Jean Kasem arrived in a striking gold lamé gown, perfectly aligned with the evening’s theme, while invitations themselves had included gold bow ties sent by Hayman—an emblem of his meticulous attention to detail and flair for branding through experience.

Following the cocktail hour, an intimate group of approximately seventy guests sat down to a lavish dinner curated by Wolfgang Puck, underscoring both culinary prestige and philanthropic purpose. The menu—lobster risotto, roasted Sonoma lamb with rosemary sauce, and wild mushroom ravioli—reflected the refined yet indulgent tone of the evening. Hayman had secured Puck’s services as the highest bidder in an auction benefiting Quest, an organization supporting children with Prader-Willi syndrome, adding a charitable dimension to the event’s opulence.

In keeping with Hayman’s established marketing philosophy, “…with Love” was launched with deliberate exclusivity. Initially sold only at the Rodeo Drive boutique, the fragrance followed the same controlled distribution model that had contributed to the mystique of Giorgio. Hayman himself expressed confidence in the endeavor, stating, “This may be perhaps our best effort.” The strategy proved immediately effective—within the first two days alone, more than $5,000 worth of the fragrance was sold at the store. The launch of “…with Love” was not merely a product introduction, but a fully realized narrative—an immersive expression of glamour, romance, and exclusivity, designed to leave a lasting impression, much like the fragrance itself.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? "...with Love" is classified as a floral-animalc chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fruity top, followed by a floral heart, layered over a sensual, warm, ambery base.

  • Top notes: aldehyde, bergamot, orange blossom, tangerine, blackcurrant bud, peach, plum, green note coriander
  • Middle notes: Damascone Rose, tuberose, jasmine, rose, tagetes, orris, ylang ylang, carnation, heliotrope
  • Base notes: cedar, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, labdanum, ambergris, castoreum, civet, musk



Scent Profile:


 “…with Love” unfolds not as a simple progression of notes, but as a carefully composed emotional arc—one that begins in brightness and curiosity, then deepens into intimacy, and finally settles into something warm, human, and enduring. The opening is immediately luminous, touched by aldehydes that shimmer like light on polished glass. These aldehydes—synthetic molecules rather than natural extracts—carry a sparkling, almost effervescent quality, reminiscent of champagne bubbles or freshly laundered linen. They do not exist in nature in a usable perfumery form, yet they elevate everything around them, giving lift and diffusion to the composition. 

Beneath this radiance, bergamot—traditionally sourced from Calabria—introduces a refined citrus bitterness, softer and more floral than other citrus oils due to the region’s unique climate and soil. It melts into juicy tangerine, brighter and sweeter, alongside the velvety richness of peach and plum, which feel almost tactile—ripe flesh warmed by the sun. Blackcurrant bud adds a vivid green-fruity sharpness, slightly sulfurous and wine-like, while coriander contributes a crisp, aromatic greenness with a faint peppery sparkle. Orange blossom weaves through this opening like a soft white glow—its essence, often distilled from blossoms grown in North Africa, carries both honeyed sweetness and a subtle indolic depth, bridging the brightness of fruit with the sensuality to come.

As the fragrance settles, the heart reveals itself in full, opulent bloom—dense, textured, and deeply expressive. Here, the rose takes on multiple dimensions. The presence of Damascone rose—an aroma-chemical derived from the study of natural rose oil—intensifies the experience, adding a dark, fruity, almost wine-like richness that natural rose alone cannot sustain at such projection. It enhances the living rose note, giving it depth, diffusion, and a slightly velvety shadow. Jasmine follows, likely incorporating both natural absolutes (often from Grasse or India) and synthetic molecules such as hedione, which imparts a luminous, airy jasmine effect—radiant and diffusive, like petals warmed by skin. Tuberose enters with creamy intensity, narcotic and almost buttery, while ylang-ylang—traditionally from the Comoros—adds a banana-like floral sweetness with a solar warmth unique to its tropical origin. 

Orris, derived from aged iris root, contributes a cool, powdery elegance—its extraction process taking years, which is why it is among the most precious materials in perfumery. Tagetes (marigold) introduces a green, slightly bitter edge, grounding the florals with an herbal sharpness, while carnation brings a spicy, clove-like warmth often enhanced by eugenol, an aroma molecule that intensifies its natural character. Heliotrope softens the composition with a gentle almond-vanilla powderiness, often recreated through heliotropin, a synthetic that lends a nostalgic, skin-like sweetness.

The base of “…with Love” is where the fragrance becomes truly intimate—where it clings, breathes, and transforms into something unmistakably human. Patchouli, often sourced from Indonesia, provides a dark, earthy richness—its aged oil developing chocolate-like and woody nuances that are far smoother than the sharper, greener varieties. Vetiver, particularly prized from Haiti, adds a dry, smoky elegance with clean, rooty facets that contrast beautifully with the warmth around it. Sandalwood—historically from India, though often now reconstructed due to sustainability restrictions—offers a creamy, milky woodiness, its natural softness frequently enhanced by synthetic sandalwood molecules that extend its longevity and radiance. Cedarwood introduces a drier, pencil-shaving clarity, while labdanum, a resin from Mediterranean rockrose, brings a deep ambered sweetness—sticky, balsamic, and slightly leathery.

It is within this base that the “animalic chypre” identity fully reveals itself. Ambergris, once naturally formed in the ocean and now largely recreated through molecules such as ambroxan, contributes a salty, skin-like warmth—subtle yet profoundly diffusive, as though the fragrance is radiating from within the body. Castoreum and civet, historically derived from animal sources but now almost entirely synthetic, add a sensual, slightly dirty warmth—leathery, musky, and faintly suggestive of skin after heat. These notes are not overtly animalic in a crude sense; rather, they are refined into a soft hum of intimacy, enhancing the natural scent of the wearer. Musk, too, is now synthetic, replacing the original animal-derived material with cleaner yet still enveloping molecules that range from powdery to skin-like. These musks act as fixatives, binding the composition together while creating the illusion of warmth and closeness—like fabric that has absorbed the scent of a loved one.

Together, these elements form a fragrance that feels alive—constantly shifting between brightness and depth, polish and sensuality. The synthetic components do not replace the natural ones, but rather extend them, amplify them, and allow them to exist in a more expressive, lasting form. “…with Love” becomes, in this way, a study in balance: a fragrance that begins with light and fruit, blooms into floral richness, and ultimately settles into something deeply personal—warm, lingering, and undeniably human.


Bottles:

The scent is captured in a parallelogram-shaped bottle with a crystal stopper. 



Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.

No comments:

Post a Comment

All comments will be subject to approval by a moderator. Comments may fail to be approved if the moderator deems that they:
--contain unsolicited advertisements ("spam")
--are unrelated to the subject matter of the post or of subsequent approved comments
--contain personal attacks or abusive/gratuitously offensive language