Le Dix by Balenciaga (1947)

Le Dix by Balenciaga, launched in 1947, carries a name of intimate significance: it is French for “The Ten,” referencing Balenciaga’s Paris salon at Number 10 Avenue George V. Pronounced as “luh dees,” the name evokes sophistication, exclusivity, and a sense of place—an address synonymous with elegance and the artistry of haute couture. For women of the late 1940s, the name alone suggested luxury, refinement, and an intimate connection to the world of Parisian fashion. It was not merely a fragrance; it was an olfactory invitation into the serene and meticulously crafted universe of Balenciaga.

The post-World War II era in which Le Dix emerged was a time of renewal and optimism, a period marked by the revival of Paris as the fashion capital of the world. In 1947, Christian Dior introduced his New Look, a celebration of femininity with cinched waists and full skirts, and Balenciaga was simultaneously establishing his own vision of elegance and architectural precision in clothing. Women of the time were drawn to fragrances that complemented these sartorial ideals—soft, floral, and romantic scents that reflected sophistication and understated luxury. Le Dix, with its aldehydic top notes, offered a sparkling introduction that felt modern yet classically feminine, while the floral heart and woody balsamic base lent warmth and sensuality.

Created by Francis Fabron of Roure, Le Dix is a rich aldehydic floral chypre, opening with bright aldehydes that provide a crisp, airy lift. The top notes include subtle touches of citrus and aromatic aldehydes, creating an impression of effervescence and elegance. The heart is a lush bouquet of violet, Bulgarian rose, Moroccan rose, jasmine, and iris, each element contributing a layered complexity: the Bulgarian and Moroccan roses are renowned for their rich, velvety depth and nuanced sweetness, while the violet offers a soft, powdery freshness, and the jasmine adds a sensual, almost creamy warmth. The base unfolds with sensual woody and balsamic notes, featuring vetiver, sandalwood, and subtle musks, which anchor the fragrance and give it a lingering, elegant finish. Each ingredient works in concert, with subtle synthetics enhancing the natural florals, stabilizing their aroma and giving the perfume a radiant, long-lasting character that was cutting-edge for the era.

In the context of the late 1940s fragrance landscape, Le Dix aligned with the burgeoning trend of sophisticated aldehydic florals popularized by Chanel No. 5, yet it distinguished itself through Balenciaga’s couture sensibility. Its lush bouquet, balanced with a delicate but defined chypre base, captured both modernity and classical refinement, appealing to women who sought a fragrance that embodied elegance, discretion, and the artistry of French haute couture. The name, the composition, and the craftsmanship of Le Dix together made it more than a perfume—it was an emblem of Parisian luxury, a scent to wear with the quiet confidence of style and taste.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does the original smell like? Le Dix by Balenciaga was originally classified as a floral aldehydic- leather - powdery fragrance for women. 

Le Dix is a floral–aldehydic fragrance. It is composed of rose absolute, jasmine absolute, lily of the valley, violet, iris, sandalwood, rosewood, civet, and musk. A classic of bold elegance, its floral dominance—where rose, jasmine, and iris bloom—is heightened over a foundation of precious woods. Designed for a woman of subtly feminine elegance, it is suitable for all occasions where perfume is worn, especially for very formal evening events. 

It begins with an aldehydic top, followed by a classic rich floral heart, layered over a woody balsamic sensual base. Francis Fabron used 16.5% of the prefabricated methyl ionone base called Isoraldeine and 8% of Raldeine. 

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Amalfi lemon, benzyl acetate, citral, peach, Russian coriander, strawberry accord, sloe
• Middle notes: Indian champaca, lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellal, Swiss lilac, lilacine, heliotropin, Grasse jasmine absolute, Bulgarian rose otto, Moroccan rose absolute, geraniol, Manila ylang ylang, Tuscan violet, Veronese iris concrete, Florentine orris, ionones
• Base notes: leather, Brazilian rosewood, Malaysian patchouli, Tonkin musk, musk ketones, Mexican vanilla, vanillin, Siam benzoin, Java vetiver, vetiveryl acetate, ambergris, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, Peru balsam, Mysore sandalwood, Ethiopian civet

Scent Profile:

Le Dix opens with the unmistakable shimmer of aldehydes, those airy, champagne-like notes that seem to fizz and sparkle in the air before vanishing like bubbles on the tongue. They bring brightness and effervescence, giving the impression of freshly ironed linen and cool evening air. The aldehydic top note sets the stage for refinement, lifting the composition and ensuring that what follows feels luminous rather than heavy. It is here that Fabron’s masterful orchestration begins, as the aldehydes act almost like a halo for the fragrance.

Beneath this glow unfolds the heart of florals, and it is here that Le Dix reveals its true elegance. Violets, softened and made powdery by the high concentration of methyl ionone (Isoraldeine), create a veil of delicate sweetness—something between candied petals and the faint perfume of pressed flowers kept in a book. Ionones were a revelation in perfumery, their aroma chemical structure capturing the elusive scent of violets more consistently than nature could provide. Here, they not only give Le Dix its signature powdery character but also bridge naturally occurring floral oils into a cohesive, velvety texture. 

Alongside the violets comes Bulgarian and Moroccan rose, warm and lush, with hints of honey and spice depending on their origin. Bulgarian rose is famed for its round, opulent fullness, while Moroccan rose brings a sharper, citrus-like brightness. Together they lend depth and dimension. Jasmine, sourced from Grasse, brings its creamy, narcotic sensuality—never cloying, but rich enough to amplify the romance of the bouquet. Iris adds a cold, elegant powderiness, evoking crushed violet roots and parchment; it is one of the most aristocratic notes in perfumery, grounding the flowers with a dignified restraint.

Supporting the florals are subtle spices and secondary notes that prevent the heart from becoming overly sweet. Raldeine, another synthetic material, acts as an aldehydic-violet modifier, pushing the violet effect into sharper focus and enhancing its interplay with the roses and iris. Together with Isoraldeine, it ensures that the floral accord feels unmistakably modern for its time—a deliberate choice by Fabron to craft not a nostalgic bouquet, but a bold and fashionable statement.

As the fragrance settles, the base emerges with soft warmth and sensual depth. Woody and balsamic notes unfurl slowly, like the shadowy counterpart to the luminous opening. Cedar from Virginia contributes a dry, pencil-shaving sharpness, while sandalwood from Mysore brings a creamy, almost milky smoothness that lingers on the skin. Musk notes, though abstract and synthetic in the mid-20th century, give Le Dix its subtle animalic hum—suggestive of skin itself, warmed by touch. Resinous balsams infuse richness, ensuring the perfume dries down into a sensual whisper rather than disappearing altogether.

Smelling Le Dix as a whole is like following the arc of an evening. It begins with the sparkle of anticipation, moves through a lush bouquet of flowers powdered with violet, and ends in a warm, enveloping embrace of wood, musk, and resin. The presence of aroma chemicals such as Isoraldeine and Raldeine does not diminish its beauty; instead, they enhance and stabilize it, ensuring the elusive powdery and violet notes remain constant from top to bottom. In this way, Fabron crafted not only a perfume, but an atmosphere: refined, romantic, and undeniably modern for 1947, a perfect reflection of Balenciaga’s vision of Parisian elegance.

 

Bottles:

The original presentation of Le Dix in 1947 reflected the refined simplicity of Balenciaga’s early postwar style. The very first flacon was a short, square, clear glass bottle topped with a chunky round glass stopper—sturdy yet elegant, a vessel that conveyed dignity without excessive ornamentation. This initial design, shown in Balenciaga’s earliest advertisements, carried the perfume’s identity in its most unembellished form, emphasizing the liquid within rather than the decorative trappings around it.

 Very soon, however, Le Dix was given a more distinctive home in what became the signature Balenciaga bottle: an oval, fluted crystal flacon topped with a perfectly matching round stopper. This design would become iconic, used not only for Le Dix but eventually for all Balenciaga perfumes over the years. The oval fluting lent the bottle a sculptural quality, catching and refracting light, while the symmetry of the stopper reinforced the sense of timeless elegance. The design was restrained yet luxurious, perfectly in keeping with Balenciaga’s couture aesthetic, which favored purity of line and quiet sophistication over excess.

The prestige of this crystal flacon was matched by its practicality. Parfums Balenciaga themselves offered careful instructions in 1963 for opening it, a reminder of how securely these bottles were sealed to preserve their contents. Collectors were advised to briefly immerse the neck of the bottle in boiling water to loosen the stopper. A strong twine looped around the neck, moved in a gentle seesaw motion while adding heat, would allow the stopper to twist off without damage. This method revealed not only the care with which these bottles were designed but also the reverence afforded to the perfume inside: a treasure worth the patience and ritual of a proper unveiling.

Product Line:

In 1961, both Le Dix and Quadrille was available in the following:

• Parfum Presentations: Parfum splash; Parfum Atomiseur
• Related Products: Eau de Toilette Splash, Eau de Toilette Spray
• Ancillary Products (Bath & Body): Dusting Powder, Bath Essence.

In 1972/1973, Le Dix was available in the following:

• Parfum Presentations: in the oval, fluted crystal bottle with a stopper shaped like ten petals. 
• Related Products: Eau de Toilette splash (90°); Atomizer Toilette (with a visible fill level); Eau de Cologne splash (80°)
• Ancillary Products (Bath & Body): Perfumance Le Dix; Soap, and Talc.

In 19777/1978, Le Dix was available in the following:

• Parfum Presentations: in the oval, fluted crystal bottle with a stopper shaped like ten petals. 
• Related Products: Eau de Toilette splash (90°); Atomizer Toilette (with a visible fill level); Eau de Cologne splash (80°)
• Ancillary Products (Bath & Body): Soap 

The original Le Dix parfum was presented in Balenciaga’s signature ribbed crystal flacon, a vessel that combined elegance and functionality. Model “fluted cylinder” designed by Pierre Camin and produced by Verrerie Pochet & Du Courval. This perfume was offered in a range of sizes to suit different preferences and occasions. Oval flacon, fluted design, topped with a cap shaped like ten petals. The smallest, a ¼ oz bottle, was ideal for travel or discreet evening use, while the ½ oz and 1 oz bottles provided convenient daily options. Larger bottles of 2 oz and 4 oz catered to collectors or those who preferred a long-lasting supply. In addition, a refillable parfum purse spray allowed women to carry the scent with them for touch-ups throughout the day, reflecting the mid-20th century shift toward portable luxury. 

The Eau de Toilette versions of Le Dix were packaged similarly but came in larger, more varied sizes, reflecting their lighter concentration and suitability for liberal application. The smallest EDT was 1.75 oz, followed by 4 oz and 7 oz bottles, while 15 oz and 32 oz sizes were likely intended for boutique display or salon use, offering generous quantities for connoisseurs or institutional settings. The Eau de Toilette, lighter and fresher than the parfum, allowed women to enjoy the essence of Le Dix in a more casual, everyday manner, extending the fragrance’s presence in the modern woman’s routine.

 

In 1960, Harper's Bazaar reported that Balenciaga's Le Dix or Quadrille was being offered in a sleek flower-printed refillable spray decanter of Parfum de Toilette, holding. 2 oz.

In 1961, Soap and Chemical Specialties reported on a particularly elegant innovation from Parfums Balenciaga: the introduction of Quadrille and Le Dix fragrances in a refillable metal case crafted by Bridgeport Metal Goods. This presentation reflected the house’s dedication to luxury paired with practicality, allowing customers to enjoy their perfumes in a stylish, enduring format rather than a single-use container. The metal case was designed to hold a two-ounce Foster Forbes uncoated glass bottle, while a plastic-coated refill bottle supplied by Wheaton Plastics ensured both protection and convenience. For the filling and dispensing mechanism, Aero-Chem was responsible for production, equipping the fragrance with a VCA BIBF metered valve. This type of valve was designed to release a consistent, carefully measured spray, reinforcing the sophistication of the overall experience. The marriage of high-quality glass, durable metal casing, and innovative valve technology emphasized Balenciaga’s desire to merge modern technical advances with refined aesthetic presentation. This refillable system not only echoed mid-century sensibilities about streamlined luxury but also marked an early gesture toward sustainability by offering an alternative to disposable perfume bottles. It stood as an example of how Balenciaga continually sought to keep their fragrances aligned with both cutting-edge design and timeless elegance.

1964 Le Dix Eau de Cologne Fraiche (still sold in 1977)

In 1967, Strict and refined, playing with navy blue, warm brown and white, this is the new presentation of Balenciaga perfumes and eaux de toilette. "Le Dix" and "Quadrille."

Parfum de Toilette in a refillable spray bottle was sold in 1968 and was still being sold in 1985.

In 1969–1970, Le Dix was offered as a complete fragrance and body-care collection. The line included Parfum, Eau de Toilette (90°), and Atomiseur Toilette (with visible level), allowing for precise and elegant application. For lighter, fresher options, an Eau de Cologne (80°) was available. Complementing the fragrances were soap, talc, and bath oil, enabling wearers to extend the scent into a full personal care ritual, from bathing to daily grooming, and to experience the luxurious aroma of Le Dix throughout the day.

Beyond traditional sprays, Le Dix also expanded into bath and body products, including bath oil and talcum powder, enabling the scent to envelop the wearer in layers. Bath oils imparted a soft, moisturizing glow while releasing the perfume’s signature aldehydic floral-chypre notes into the steam of a warm bath. Talcum powder offered a subtly scented finish to the skin, letting the fragrance linger gently throughout the day. Together, these product variations not only reflected Balenciaga’s commitment to comprehensive luxury but also provided multiple avenues for women to experience Le Dix in different contexts—whether in intimate personal moments, daily routines, or public appearances.

Fate of the Fragrance:

 

By the early 1950s, Le Dix was already establishing itself as one of Balenciaga’s signature perfumes, admired for its refined floral composition and its alignment with the haute couture image of the house. A 1952 note from The New Yorker drew comparisons between Le Dix and Rochas’ famous Femme, placing it in the “fruit-and-flowers tradition,” yet suggesting that Balenciaga brought his own sophisticated interpretation to the theme. The mention of its companion fragrance, La Fuite des Heures, highlighted the contrast: where Le Dix was lush and inviting, La Fuite des Heures leaned toward the woodier and more unusual, confirming Balenciaga’s willingness to explore both tradition and originality in his olfactory offerings.

By 1954, the French press was describing Le Dix in far more poetic and sensual terms. In Combat, the perfume was depicted as a luxuriant interplay of green accords and regal iris, its powdery violet tones mingling with the richness of amber and jasmine. The critic emphasized the fruity undertones—strawberry, sloe, and peach—that draped the floral heart like “golden satin.” This imagery transformed the perfume into a vision of abundance and sensuality, personified as a radiant goddess of summer, reclining in nature and breathing life into her surroundings. The description suggested both refinement and indulgence, qualities perfectly suited to Balenciaga’s couture clientele.

A year later, in 1955, Combat again returned to the iris of Le Dix, praising its powdery elegance and subtle ancestral character. Here, the iris was imagined as a coquettish, timeless figure, gently dusting its surroundings with fragrance. The critic noted that its effect was most striking in Balenciaga’s Le Dix and Jacques Fath’s Iris Gris—two perfumes where iris was not merely a supporting note but the very soul of the composition. The description elevated iris as a note of sophistication, linking it with femininity, flirtation, and the fluid grace of swirling skirts.

By 1958, Fodor’s France provided a more concise, consumer-oriented perspective, neatly categorizing Balenciaga’s perfumes: Le Dix was said to be “designed for brunettes,” a phrase that reflects the mid-century fashion of matching perfumes to hair color or personality type. Alongside it, La Fuite des Heures was described as “languishing,” while Quadrille carried a “spicy” character. These succinct descriptors highlight how perfumes were often marketed at the time: as distinct moods or archetypes that a woman could choose to embody.

By 1967, however, the tone had shifted toward playful marketing. In Penthouse, Le Dix was presented as “a harmony of roses and jasmine for the precious pet—the young lady who is shy but aware.” This remark framed the perfume as a tender yet sophisticated choice, aligning with Balenciaga’s image of understated luxury. It suggested that Le Dix was not for the bold or flamboyant, but rather for the woman who valued refinement, quiet allure, and a touch of mystery beneath her reserved exterior.

Together, these period references trace the evolving reception of Le Dix—from its early placement in the lineage of fruity-floral perfumes, to its poetic exaltation as an iris-centered masterpiece, to its practical categorization and playful repositioning for a younger generation. The common thread across all these accounts is the perfume’s enduring association with refinement, femininity, and timeless elegance—qualities that ensured its lasting reputation as one of Balenciaga’s great olfactory creations.

In 1989, Le Dix was re-orchestrated with modern ingredients, re-packaged and re-launched. This version is classified as a soft rich aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women.

In 1993, Le Dix was part of the "Prestige Collection", manufactured in France or Italy and sold in the Balenciaga boutique in Paris and in boutiques abroad with a Balenciaga franchise. 

Cialenga by Balenciaga (1973)

Cialenga by Balenciaga was launched in 1973, a period of bold experimentation in both fashion and perfumery. The very name “Cialenga” carries a sense of intrigue and sophistication. Pronounced roughly as "chee-ah-LEN-ga", the word itself is not directly tied to any widely recognized meaning in common European languages. Instead, it evokes an invented, almost lyrical quality—something mysterious, modern, and cosmopolitan. For Balenciaga, known for elegance laced with avant-garde flair, the name “Cialenga” would have been chosen to suggest both refinement and the slightly exotic, creating an air of exclusivity. The sound of the word rolls off the tongue with fluidity, conjuring images of Mediterranean sunlight, open landscapes, and a stylish woman walking with effortless grace. The emotions stirred by the name are sensuality, mystery, and a quiet power—a perfect fit for the type of woman Balenciaga dressed and the fragrance world he sought to create.

The early 1970s was a fascinating transitional period. The era of flower children and bohemian freedoms of the late 1960s was giving way to a new decade of sharp tailoring, bold prints, and a rising sense of individualism in fashion. Women were embracing pantsuits, jersey dresses, and modern, easy silhouettes popularized by designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Halston, and Diane von Fürstenberg. This was also the era of the “working woman,” when femininity was being redefined—less about fragility, more about confidence and independence. In perfumery, the early 1970s marked the height of the green floral chypre trend, with fragrances such as Estée Lauder’s Aliage (1972) and Chanel’s No. 19 (1970) leading the way. The style represented freshness, elegance, and a new kind of sophistication—green florals were crisp, assertive, and often unconventional compared to the sweeter florals of earlier decades.