Opera by Coryse Salome (1932)

Opéra by Coryse Salomé, launched in 1932, bears a name that is anything but accidental. Opéra is a French word, pronounced as "oh-PAIR-ah", with a soft, rounded elegance that mirrors the art form it describes. The word itself refers to a grand theatrical performance combining music, voice, drama, and spectacle—an elevated cultural experience associated with refinement, emotion, and ceremony. By choosing this name, Coryse Salomé aligned the perfume with one of the highest expressions of European art and sophistication. Opéra immediately suggests velvet curtains, chandeliers glowing in gilt halls, silk gowns brushing red carpets, and the charged anticipation before the orchestra begins. It is a word steeped in drama, beauty, and cultivated pleasure.

The perfume emerged during a profoundly complex moment in history. Launched in 1932, Opéra belongs to the interwar period, often referred to as the late Roaring Twenties transitioning into the Great Depression era. While economic hardship was spreading globally, luxury did not disappear—it became more symbolic, more precious, and more emotionally charged. Fashion in the early 1930s shifted from the garçonne silhouette of the 1920s to a softer, more feminine elegance: bias-cut gowns, elongated lines, satin, velvet, and an emphasis on grace rather than rebellion. Women were reclaiming glamour as a form of resilience and identity. In perfumery, this era was defined by polish and innovation, particularly the rise of aldehydic florals, which felt modern, abstract, and unmistakably luxurious.

For women of the time, a perfume named Opéra would have resonated deeply. It evoked evenings of culture and escape—an imagined night at the opera house even if daily life was modest or uncertain. Wearing Opéra allowed a woman to participate in that world of refinement and artistry. It was aspirational yet dignified, suggesting a woman who was composed, elegant, and emotionally expressive. The name implied presence and poise: a woman who enters a room as one enters a theater, with quiet confidence and an awareness of her own effect.

Interpreted through scent, Opéra becomes olfactory theater. The aldehydic opening acts like the lifting of the curtain—bright, sparkling, and effervescent. Aldehydes, which were still relatively novel in mainstream perfumery at the time, introduce a clean, almost champagne-like fizz that feels lively and luminous. They sharpen the florals that follow, giving the fragrance a sense of movement and light. This opening would have felt exhilarating and modern in 1932, signaling sophistication and technical mastery.

The floral heart unfolds like the aria at the center of a performance. Rose brings classical femininity—soft, velvety, and romantic—while jasmine adds warmth and sensual depth, its creamy white petals glowing from within. Geranium introduces a green, slightly peppery freshness that keeps the bouquet from becoming overly sweet, while orange blossom contributes a luminous, honeyed brightness associated with elegance and purity. Ylang-ylang, exotic and smooth, lends a languid richness, enhancing the floral harmony much like a deep musical register enriches an orchestral score. Together, these florals are sweet but poised, expressive without excess.

As the fragrance settles, it finds its emotional resolution in a balsamic, sweet, powdery base. Iris lends a refined, cosmetic powderiness—cool, silken, and aristocratic—while ambergris adds warmth and radiance, a subtle animalic glow that enhances longevity and depth. Musk softens everything into a skin-like finish, intimate yet elegant, ensuring the perfume lingers gracefully rather than loudly. The base feels like the final applause—warm, resonant, and lasting in memory.

In the context of its time, Opéra was both of its era and quietly distinguished. Aldehydic florals were gaining prominence following the success of earlier trailblazers, but Opéra did not feel derivative. Instead, it aligned with the broader trend while expressing it through a more lyrical, classical lens. Where some fragrances of the period leaned sharply modern or starkly abstract, Opéra balanced innovation with tradition. Its elegance, freshness, and lasting character made it accessible yet refined—appropriate for all occasions, as described, and appealing to women who sought beauty that endured beyond fleeting fashion.

Ultimately, Opéra was not merely a perfume—it was a cultural statement. It translated the grandeur of the opera house into scent, offering women of the 1930s a way to wear artistry, emotion, and grace. In doing so, Coryse Salomé created a fragrance that echoed its name perfectly: dramatic yet disciplined, expressive yet composed, and timeless in its elegance.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It begins with an aldehydic top, followed by a sweet floral heart, resting on a balsamic, sweet, powdery base. A floral aldehyde. Type: Floral and aldehydic perfume. Contains rose, jasmine, geranium, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, iris, ambergris, and musk. A highly elegant perfume, distinguished by its lively opening note and its overall floral, fresh, yet long-lasting character. Suitable for all women, for all occasions.

• Top notes: aldehyde accord, bergamot, lemon, orange blossom, coriander, clary sage
• Middle notes: geranium, oriental rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, carnation, orchid, iris
• Base notes: vanilla, benzoin, sandalwood, ambergris, vetiver, Peru balsam, musk, myrrh

Scent Profile:

Opéra opens with the unmistakable brilliance of a classic aldehydic accord, a sensation that feels like light itself—sparkling, airy, and effervescent, as though silk curtains are being drawn back in a gilded theater. Aldehydes do not smell like a single natural object; instead, they evoke cleanliness, shimmer, and lift, recalling cool air, polished surfaces, and the fizz of champagne. These aroma molecules magnify the radiance of everything that follows, stretching the opening into something expansive and elegant. 

They are joined by bergamot, whose Calabrian origin is traditionally prized for its refined balance of bitterness and sweetness—bright, green, and slightly floral—alongside lemon, sharp and sunlit, adding a crisp citrus snap. Orange blossom introduces a gentle sweetness, honeyed and luminous, bridging citrus freshness and floral warmth. Subtle accents of coriander bring a dry, aromatic spice—peppery yet citrus-tinged—while clary sage contributes an herbal clarity, slightly musky and green, grounding the brilliance with aromatic depth.

As the aldehydic light softens, the fragrance moves into its lush floral heart, where Opéra truly sings. Geranium provides a green, rosy freshness, slightly minty and peppered, acting as a structural backbone that keeps the bouquet vibrant rather than syrupy. Oriental rose, warmer and deeper than European varieties, unfurls with velvety petals and a subtle spiced sweetness, evoking dusk rather than dawn. Jasmine blooms beside it, creamy and radiant, its white petals glowing with warmth; supported by aroma chemicals, the jasmine feels more expansive and diffusive, its sensuality polished rather than indolic. 

Ylang-ylang, often sourced from tropical regions like the Comoros, adds a languid, exotic richness—banana-smooth, softly floral, and slightly spicy—rounding the heart with opulence. Carnation introduces a clove-like warmth, peppered and vintage in character, while orchid contributes an abstract, velvety floral softness, more impression than literal bloom. Iris, cool and powdery, emerges as a refined counterpoint—its scent reminiscent of cosmetic powder, violet-tinged roots, and soft suede—bringing aristocratic poise to the floral composition.

The base of Opéra settles into a deeply comforting, balsamic and powdery embrace, where sweetness, resin, and skin warmth converge. Vanilla lends a gentle, enveloping sweetness, creamy and smooth rather than gourmand. Benzoin, with its warm, resinous, vanilla-like facets, enhances this sweetness with a balsamic glow, while Peru balsam adds depth—rich, syrupy, and faintly smoky, with hints of cinnamon and caramelized woods. 

Sandalwood, prized for its creamy softness and meditative calm, provides a milky, polished woodiness that smooths every edge; when reinforced with modern sandalwood aroma molecules, its warmth lingers longer and radiates more evenly on the skin. Vetiver introduces an earthy, slightly bitter dryness—rooty and elegant—adding contrast and structure beneath the sweetness.

At the heart of the base lies ambergris, lending a subtle, radiant warmth that feels both mineral and animalic, like sun-warmed skin by the sea. Paired with myrrh, resinous and faintly smoky with a sacred, incense-like quality, the fragrance gains solemnity and depth. Finally, musk wraps the entire composition in a soft, intimate haze—clean, warm, and skin-like—ensuring Opéra does not merely linger in the air but becomes part of the wearer. Modern musk molecules amplify this effect, providing diffusion and longevity while maintaining elegance and restraint.

Together, these elements create a fragrance of remarkable balance and refinement. Opéra is at once fresh and floral, luminous and powdery, classical yet modern in its construction. The aldehydes lift and polish the natural florals, the synthetics enhance diffusion and longevity, and the resins and woods provide emotional resonance and lasting warmth. The result is a perfume that feels timeless and versatile—highly elegant, radiant at first breath, and enduring in its gentle, graceful presence, suitable for any woman and any moment when poise and beauty are desired.

Product Line:

In 1969/1970 through 1972/1973, Opera was available in the following formats:

• Parfum Presentation: splash flacons (1/8 oz to 2 oz); frosted glass bottles (0.25 oz, 0.5 oz, 1 oz, and 2 oz) - gold series (rectangular bottles) - pearl series (key-shaped bottles) - luxury series (crystal bottles); purse-size bottle; purse spray and refill. 
• Related Products: Parfum de Toilette (spray and refill); Eau de Toilette Splash; Eau de Toilette Spray; Eau de Cologne
• Ancillary Products: Talc; Dusting Powder; Soap; Bath Oil.

 In 1984/1985, Opera was available in the following:

• Parfum Presentation: original bottles (0.25 oz to 2 oz); Bag bottle; Atomizer bag and refill
• Related Products: Parfum de Toilette (atomizer and refill); Eau de Toilette Splash bottles and spray bottles; Cologne
• Ancillary Products (Bath & Body): Soap; Loose powder; Talc; Bath oil; Shower and bath gel; Subtle body mist

Fate of the Fragrance:

Although the exact date of discontinuation remains undocumented, Opéra was still commercially available as late as 1985, indicating a lifespan that extended well beyond its original launch period. This suggests the fragrance enjoyed sustained appeal and sufficient demand to remain in production for decades, surviving shifts in fashion and fragrance trends. Its eventual discontinuation—at an unknown point after 1985—was likely not a reflection of its quality or reception, but rather the result of broader industry changes such as evolving consumer tastes, reformulations driven by regulatory pressures, or brand restructuring. Today, this uncertain end date only adds to Opéra’s mystique, reinforcing its status as a quietly enduring classic whose elegance outlasted the era that first gave it life.

Tocade by Coryse Salome (1957)

Tocade by Coryse Salomé, first launched in 1957 and later relaunched in 1968, carries a name that is psychologically charged and distinctly French. Tocade is a French word, pronounced as "toh-KAHd". It refers to a sudden infatuation, a passing obsession, a headlong emotional impulse—something felt intensely and immediately, without calculation. Unlike grand, eternal love, a tocade is spontaneous, modern, and a little reckless. By choosing this name, Coryse Salomé signaled a fragrance inspired not by tradition or ceremony, but by impulse, freedom, and emotional immediacy.

The word Tocade evokes vivid imagery: a quickened heartbeat, a decisive turn of the head, a woman striding through the city streets with purpose and confidence. It suggests clarity rather than nostalgia, freshness rather than ornament. Emotionally, it conveys alertness, independence, and modern desire—a woman who knows what she wants and acts on instinct. As a perfume name, it feels youthful and intelligent rather than romanticized, aligning perfectly with a fragrance meant to be worn daily, in motion, in real life.

The original 1957 launch places Tocade squarely in the postwar modernist era, a time when Europe was rebuilding materially and psychologically. Fashion was transitioning from the structured elegance of Dior’s New Look toward cleaner lines and functional chic. Women were increasingly visible in professional and urban environments, and there was a growing appetite for perfumes that felt fresh, intelligent, and wearable, rather than overtly glamorous or heavy. In perfumery, this era saw a move toward citrus, green notes, and transparent florals—scents that conveyed optimism, cleanliness, and modernity. Tocade fit seamlessly into this shift, yet stood out for its decisiveness and restraint.

By the time Tocade was relaunched in 1968, its message felt even more relevant. The late 1960s were defined by social change, youth movements, and a rejection of rigid norms. Fashion embraced shorter hemlines, bold simplicity, and individuality; women were redefining femininity on their own terms. A perfume called Tocade—suggesting emotional freedom and instinct—would have resonated deeply with women seeking self-expression rather than adherence to tradition. It was not about seduction in the classical sense, but about presence, movement, and autonomy.

Interpreted through scent, Tocade becomes an olfactory expression of clarity and impulse. Italian citron, prized for its refined bitterness and aromatic brightness, opens the fragrance with a crisp, green citrus snap that feels alert and energizing. Unlike sweeter citrus varieties, Italian citron is dry and elegant, lending sophistication rather than playfulness. Jasmine anchors the floral heart, clean and luminous rather than indolic—feminine without softness—its radiance enhanced by subtle synthetic supports that extend freshness and diffusion. The florality is present but controlled, reflecting modern femininity rather than romantic excess.

The base introduces quiet warmth and confidence. Vetiver provides structure with its dry, rooty elegance, while patchouli adds depth in a refined, woody form rather than earthy heaviness. Ambergris contributes a subtle mineral warmth and glow, softening the composition and enhancing longevity, while musk—used lightly—wraps the fragrance in a clean, skin-like finish. The overall effect is balanced and assured: green and fresh, yet unmistakably feminine.

In the context of other fragrances on the market, Tocade was very much in dialogue with contemporary trends, yet it expressed them with unusual clarity. While many perfumes of the era explored freshness, few combined citrus, floral, and woody elements with such restraint and decisiveness. Tocade did not aim to dazzle—it aimed to move. Its uniqueness lay in its emotional positioning: not a dream, not a memory, but an instinctive choice. A fragrance for women who lived in the city, navigated seasons and schedules, and wanted a scent that felt like an extension of themselves.

Ultimately, Tocade was a perfume of its time—and quietly ahead of it. Its name, composition, and spirit all speak to modern femininity: spontaneous, clear-eyed, and self-directed. It was not a declaration of love, but a declaration of presence.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Tocade is classified as a citrusy floral woody fragrance for women. Contains jasmine, Italian citron, vetiver, patchouli, ambergris, and musk. A modern, clean, decisive, fresh, and green fragrance with a floral dominance of jasmine and citron, warmed and feminized by a woody note, very lightly musky. A contemporary perfume, ideal for city wear—whether in winter or summer, under furs or over sweaters.

• Top notes: Italian citron, lemon, petitgrain, bergamot, neroli, green notes
• Middle notes: galbanum, plum, raspberry, heliotrope, honeysuckle, lily of the valley, geranium, jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, violet, orris
• Base notes: cinnamon, civet, ambergris, musk, vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, almond, sandalwood, cedar

Scent Profile:

Tocade opens with a rush of clarity and green light, an introduction that feels distinctly urban and modern. Italian citron leads the way—brighter and more aromatic than standard lemon, with a dry, slightly bitter peel that releases a sparkling, almost crystalline freshness. Citron from Italy is especially prized for its balance: less sharp than Sicilian lemon, more elegant and nuanced, with a faint floral undertone that feels refined rather than acidic. Lemon reinforces this brightness, while bergamot, traditionally sourced from Calabria, adds a sophisticated citrus-floral softness, its gentle bitterness smoothing the sharper edges. 

Petitgrain, distilled from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, contributes a green, woody-citrus nuance—cool, slightly bitter, and aromatic—while neroli, from orange blossoms, floats above with a delicate, honeyed radiance. Beneath it all, green notes, shaped by modern aroma chemicals, evoke crushed leaves, fresh stems, and cool shade, extending the freshness and giving the opening its clean, decisive snap.

As Tocade develops, the fragrance blossoms into a complex, multi-faceted floral heart, where greenery, fruit, and powder intertwine. Galbanum introduces a sharp, resinous green—intensely vegetal, almost sappy—adding structure and a chic austerity that keeps the florals crisp. Soft plum and raspberry notes appear next, subtle and diffused, lending a muted fruitiness that feels more like the scent of ripe skin than juice. 

Heliotrope brings a gentle almond-vanilla powderiness, smoothing transitions and adding a cosmetic softness, while honeysuckle and lily of the valley contribute airy sweetness and spring-like freshness. Lily of the valley, recreated entirely through aroma molecules, sparkles with green-white clarity, lifting the bouquet and enhancing its transparency.

At the heart of Tocade’s identity lies jasmine, luminous and clean rather than indolic, its white petals glowing with restrained sensuality. Supported by synthetics that enhance diffusion and longevity, the jasmine feels modern and polished, never heavy. Geranium adds a green, rosy sharpness—peppered and slightly minty—bridging floral and aromatic facets. 

Rose lends a soft, velvety elegance, while ylang-ylang, sourced from tropical regions such as the Comoros, introduces a creamy, exotic warmth, subtly rounding the florals. Violet and orris (iris root) add a cool, powdery undertone—violet leafy and slightly metallic, orris smooth, suede-like, and aristocratic—giving the heart a refined, tactile softness that feels distinctly feminine yet contemporary.

The base of Tocade is where its freshness is gently warmed and grounded. Vetiver, often sourced from regions like Haiti for its elegance, contributes a dry, earthy woodiness—rooty, green, and faintly smoky—adding structure without heaviness. 

Patchouli deepens the base with a clean, refined earthiness rather than a dark, camphoraceous weight, its modern treatment softened by aroma chemicals that highlight its woody facets. Oakmoss adds a forest-floor depth—cool, slightly bitter, and green—while sandalwood offers creamy smoothness, its milky woodiness enhanced by synthetics that extend its warmth and diffusion. Cedar brings dry, pencil-shaving clarity, sharpening the woody structure.

A subtle spice from cinnamon flickers briefly, warming the composition, while almond echoes the heliotrope’s powdery sweetness. Ambergris imparts a radiant, mineral warmth—salty, skin-like, and quietly animalic—enhancing longevity and glow. Civet, used here with restraint, adds a whisper of animal warmth, immediately softened and civilized by musk, which envelops everything in a clean, intimate haze. Modern musk molecules ensure the fragrance clings gently to the skin, light and personal rather than overtly sensual.

Together, these elements form a fragrance that feels unmistakably contemporary: green, floral, and clean, yet softly warmed by woods and musks. Tocade is decisive without being severe, feminine without excess sweetness—a perfume that moves effortlessly through city life, equally at home under winter furs or layered over summer knits, leaving behind an impression of clarity, confidence, and modern elegance.

Product Line:

In 1969/1970 through 1972/1973, the parfum was available in bottles of various sizes (1/8 oz to 2 oz); frosted glass bottles (0.25 oz, 0.5 oz, 1 oz); and a refillable atomizer. Also available were: Parfum de Toilette (atomizer and refill); Eau de Toilette Splash; and Eau de Toilette Spray.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Although the precise date of its discontinuation remains undocumented, this version of Tocade eventually disappeared from regular production, its presence fading quietly rather than with any formal announcement. It was, for a time, a distinctly modern expression—clean, green, and urban in character—and its withdrawal likely reflected shifting market priorities, brand realignments, or changing tastes rather than any lack of merit. Like many contemporary perfumes of its era, it existed fully in its moment, serving a clientele drawn to clarity, freshness, and understated sophistication.

It is important to note that this fragrance should not be confused with Tocade by Rochas, launched in 1994, which is a completely different creation in both composition and spirit. The later Rochas perfume is known for its plush, gourmand-leaning floral sweetness and romantic exuberance, whereas the earlier Tocade described here was defined by its citrusy green freshness, jasmine-led florality, and restrained woody-musky base. Aside from sharing a name, the two fragrances have no artistic or olfactory connection, and distinguishing between them is essential when discussing their place in perfume history.