Vivara by Emilio Pucci was launched in 1965, initially appearing in a limited number of stores in the United States before expanding nationwide by 1967. The name “Vivara” draws directly from Italian heritage, referring to a small, deserted crescent-shaped island opposite Ischia in the Bay of Naples, known for its rugged cliffs, crystal-clear waters, and unspoiled natural beauty. The word is pronounced "vee-VAH-rah". Pucci, an Italian designer celebrated for his vivid prints, vibrant colors, and Mediterranean-inspired style, chose the name as a homage to his homeland, evoking the elegance, freedom, and sun-drenched spirit of Italy. The word itself conjures images of shimmering seas, wind-swept cliffs, and the effortless joie de vivre of summer—luxury and adventure wrapped into a single syllable. It evokes feelings of freshness, lightness, and radiant vitality, mirroring the designer’s signature approach to fashion: bold, energetic, and unmistakably Italian.
The perfume was launched during the mid-1960s, a period marked by optimism, experimentation, and cultural change. Fashion embraced fluid silhouettes, bold colors, and a celebration of youth and freedom, with ready-to-wear collections increasingly reflecting a casual, Mediterranean-inspired elegance. Perfume trends were also evolving: the 1960s saw a shift toward fresh, vibrant, and green-fruity scents, often accented with aldehydes and light floral notes, designed to match the active, modern lifestyles of women. Vivara fit perfectly into this zeitgeist, offering a fragrance that was elegant yet energetic, playful yet sophisticated—a scent that captured the carefree glamour of Mediterranean summer while maintaining the refinement expected of high fashion perfumery.
Interpreted in scent, Vivara opens with a green fruity aldehydic top, sparkling and invigorating. The aldehydes create a bright, effervescent lift, enhancing the crisp greenery of the notes, while the fruitiness adds a sun-ripened sweetness reminiscent of citrus groves and lush Mediterranean orchards. This lively top gives way to a fruity floral heart, where delicate florals bloom amid juicy, radiant fruit nuances—like a garden of roses, jasmine, and other Mediterranean blossoms kissed by the sun, soft yet exuberant. The base is warm, woody, and ambery, grounding the airy brightness with subtle sensuality: golden amber, soft woods, and gentle musks evoke sun-warmed skin, driftwood on the shore, and the lingering warmth of summer evenings by the sea. In Vivara Parfum, the concentration is softer than the more potent Vivara Super, making it discreet and versatile, ideal for an active woman who wants a signature scent without overwhelming the senses.
In the context of its time, Vivara was both of its era and distinctively Pucci. While green-fruity fragrances were gaining popularity in the 1960s, few captured the Mediterranean spirit with such clarity and elegance. Most contemporaries leaned toward either heavy florals or light citrus; Vivara’s combination of balsamic greenery, sunlit fruit, and soft woody warmth created a truly evocative landscape, translating Pucci’s textile artistry into olfactory form. Women of the period would have related to Vivara as an accessible luxury, a perfume that mirrored their active, modern lives while evoking exotic sophistication, sun-soaked elegance, and the effortless joie de vivre of Italy’s coastline—a fragrance that was, quite literally, a breath of Mediterranean air.
Launch Party:
In February 1965, Emilio Pucci orchestrated a remarkable three-day launch of his new fragrance, Vivara, by flying 100 journalists and international jetsetters on Braniff Airlines to the sun-soaked resort city of Acapulco, Mexico. Pucci, an Italian couturier renowned for his vibrant, Mediterranean-inspired prints, sought to assemble a cross-section of society, blending fashion insiders, celebrities, and the press to create a glamorous, unforgettable introduction for the perfume. The trip also included business meetings with Braniff, as Pucci was designing new uniforms for the airline’s stewardesses. Braniff itself was at the height of prestige, having become the first U.S. flag carrier to inaugurate direct flights to Acapulco, a move that doubled its presence in Latin America. The airline’s board held meetings at the elegant El Presidente Hotel, emphasizing the city’s growing importance as a luxury destination.
The festivities spanned Thursday through Sunday, with Las Brisas Hotel serving as the headquarters for many guests. The hotel, famous for its individual pools, cabanas, and panoramic ocean views, perfectly reflected the Mediterranean elegance Pucci sought to evoke with Vivara. Thursday evening saw a private event at Los Ochos Caballos, the home of New Yorkers Jack and Martha Tinker and Mary Wells. Perched on a hillside with a cascading waterfall and sweeping views of the sea, the estate hosted guests entertained by The New Order, a six-member New York music group debuting in Pucci’s “Vivara” print sport shirts, emphasizing the designer’s integration of fashion, lifestyle, and scent.
Friday’s events highlighted the glamour and playfulness of Acapulco’s social scene. Actress Merle Oberon de Pagliai, owner of one of Acapulco’s most exclusive residences, chartered the yacht Fiesta I for a cocktail cruise around the bay. The legendary singer Eddie Fisher performed atop the yacht, accompanied by a Mexican mariachi ensemble, while the yacht pitched and rolled in an incoming squall, adding an element of thrilling unpredictability. The party continued ashore at La Concha Beach Club, offering a blend of tropical leisure and high society sophistication. That evening, a poolside dinner dance at the Villa Vera Racquet Club, hosted by Pucci and T. Reed Vreeland, president of Pucci Perfumes, featured floating tropical flowers, swaying palms, and a fountain illuminated and perfumed with Vivara. The New Order provided live music again, and a sudden rain shower drove guests under umbrellas and trees, creating moments of intimate interaction. The evening’s excitement was briefly eclipsed by news that the glamorous actress Hedy Lamarr had been arrested, adding a note of scandal to the proceedings. Guests then proceeded to the popular Tequila A Go Go discotheque and danced until dawn.
Saturday offered a more relaxed yet still lavish ambiance. A buffet luncheon at La Isla, an outdoor restaurant at the Acapulco Hilton, provided guests with the sounds of strolling Mexican musicians and a stunning setting—a half-mile-long swimming pool encircling the dining area, offering both elegance and spectacle. Guests included prominent members of the press from across the U.S. and Mexico City, reflecting Pucci’s deliberate strategy to blend media influence with glamour. Later, a cocktail party hosted by Mr. & Mrs. Miguel Guajardo at their luxurious residence across from the Club de Pesca Hotel featured sliding glass walls, marble staircases, and patios opening onto the bay. Guests marveled at fireworks displays, followed by a dinner dance on the Starlight Roof of the Palacio Tropical Hotel, co-hosted by Marchese Emilio Pucci di Barsento and Harding L. Lawrence of Braniff Airlines. From this perch, attendees enjoyed panoramic views of Acapulco and the bay while New Order provided live music.
The guest list read like a who’s who of high society, entertainment, and fashion. Pucci was accompanied by his wife, the Marchesa di Barsento of Florence, while Hollywood figures included Douglas Fairbanks Jr. and his wife (guests of Merle Oberon), singer Eddie Fisher, and actress Rod Taylor with Mary Taylor. European aristocracy included the Baron and Baroness Guy de Rothschild, the Duke of Bedford’s stepdaughter Catherine Milinaire, and various counts and countesses, including the Countess von Lendorff, the German model Veruschka. Designers and fashion personalities such as Oscar de la Renta, socialites like Mary “Minnie” Cushing, and influential society journalists—including Carolyn Patrick of the Dallas Morning News and Wauhillau La Hay of the Washington Daily News—were in attendance, demonstrating Pucci’s ability to merge the worlds of fashion, media, and celebrity.
Altogether, the Acapulco launch of Vivara was a masterclass in integrated luxury marketing: combining Mediterranean-inspired elegance, vibrant fashion, iconic celebrities, live music, and the spectacular scenery of Acapulco. It reflected Pucci’s vision not only for a perfume but for an immersive lifestyle experience, ensuring Vivara would be remembered not just as a fragrance, but as a symbol of the sun-soaked sophistication and cosmopolitan glamour of the 1960s.
Fragrance Composition:
Vivara Super:
Launched in 1966, Vivara Super — Mediterranean in character, evoking the open air and the maquis. Composed of Calabrian citron, Messina bergamot, cypress from La Crau, May rose absolute from Grasse, Bulgarian rose, Provençal jasmine, Manilla ylang-ylang, Mysore sandalwood, and labdanum from the Massif de Maures. Vivara captures summer all year long, with a dominant note that evokes the sea, ocean spray, and the dense Mediterranean shrubland. In a word, it conveys the intangible ambiance of a holiday escape. Suitable for all occasions when a woman wishes to assert her personality. The Super Perfume was an ultra concentrated parfum composed by the perfumers at Roure using only the costliest floral absolutes, it had the same formula as the Parfum, but the Parfum is not as strong.
The notes for the Super Perfume: It begins with an aldehydic, fruity green top, followed by a fruity floral heart, resting on a warm, woody, ambery base.
- Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian lemon, Messina bergamot, green accents, La Crau cypress, peach, spice oils complex
- Middle notes: carnation, lily of the valley, Grasse may rose absolute, Bulgarian rose otto, Provencal jasmine absolute, Manila ylang ylang absolute
- Base notes: patchouli, ambergris, vetiver, leather, oakmoss, benzoin, incense, Mysore sandalwood, Massif de Maures labdanum
Vivara Super opens like a rush of Mediterranean air, bright and bracing, as if the first breath is taken on a sunlit cliff above the sea. The sparkle comes from Calabrian citron and lemon, fruits grown in southern Italy where intense sunlight and salty breezes give citrus an unusually bitter-green edge—less sugary, more crystalline, with a pithy sharpness that feels alive on the skin. This freshness is refined by Messina bergamot from Sicily, prized above other bergamots for its balance of citrus zest and soft floral bitterness; it smells simultaneously juicy and elegant, never shrill. Aldehydes lift these natural notes into the air, adding a silvery, windblown shimmer—clean, airy, and slightly soapy—creating the sensation of open space and sunlight reflecting on water.
A subtle peach nuance, likely supported by lactonic aroma chemicals, adds a velvety softness beneath the citrus, preventing the top from feeling austere, while a discreet spice oil complex introduces warmth and quiet intrigue. Threaded through it all is cypress from La Crau, a wild, windswept region of southern France; its resinous, green-woody scent smells dry, aromatic, and slightly smoky, evoking the dense maquis shrubland that borders the sea.
As Vivara Super unfolds, the heart blooms with a lush yet disciplined floral structure, never heavy, always sunlit. Carnation brings a clove-like spiciness, crisp and peppered, lending structure and a faintly old-world elegance. Lily of the valley, reconstructed through deft use of synthetic molecules since the flower yields no natural oil, adds a cool, dewy greenness—fresh, translucent, and gently soapy—acting as a bridge between the citrusy opening and the deeper florals.
At the center lies Grasse May rose absolute, harvested in the early weeks of spring when the petals are richest in aroma; it smells soft, honeyed, and petal-smooth, with a natural warmth that feels intimate and refined. This is deepened by Bulgarian rose otto, more powerful and wine-dark, its spicy, almost fruity richness adding drama and longevity. Provençal jasmine absolute brings a sun-warmed sensuality—indolic yet clean, creamy without heaviness—its radiance heightened by subtle synthetic jasmine molecules that extend diffusion and clarity. Manila ylang-ylang absolute, tropical and opulent, rounds the bouquet with a banana-like creaminess and soft floral spice, lending a languid, holiday sensuality that feels unmistakably Mediterranean.
The base of Vivara Super settles into a warm, textured landscape that clings to the skin like sun-heated earth after dusk. Mysore sandalwood, revered for its rarity and depth, provides a creamy, milky woodiness that feels both meditative and sensual, far richer and smoother than modern substitutes. Patchouli adds a cool, earthy darkness, slightly camphorous and grounding, while vetiver introduces a dry, rooty greenness that echoes the earlier cypress and ties the composition back to the land. Oakmoss, essential to the chypre-like backbone, smells of damp forest floor and salty air, reinforcing the illusion of coastal vegetation.
Labdanum from the Massif de Maures, harvested from sun-baked rockrose shrubs, brings a resinous amber warmth—leathery, balsamic, and faintly animalic—enhanced by benzoin and incense, which contribute a soft, smoky sweetness and a sense of ritual calm. Ambergris, used sparingly, adds a salty, skin-like glow, extending the perfume’s trail and lending an almost mineral radiance, while a subtle leather nuance deepens the base with warmth and sensual restraint.
In its entirety, Vivara Super feels less like a constructed perfume and more like an atmosphere—sea spray on warm skin, citrus groves above the coast, wild herbs crushed underfoot, and flowers blooming in the heat of midday. The masterful interplay of precious natural absolutes with carefully chosen synthetics gives the fragrance both soul and clarity: the naturals provide depth, texture, and emotion, while the aroma chemicals lend lift, diffusion, and longevity. The result is an ultra-concentrated parfum that captures the intangible essence of a Mediterranean holiday—free, radiant, and quietly confident—asserting personality without excess, and leaving behind the unmistakable impression of sun, salt, and endless summer.
Vivara Parfum:
Vivara Parfum is classified as an balsamic green fragrance for women, evocative of the Mediterranean sun, salt, sea, and summer in Emilio Pucci's distinctive style. It starts with a green fruity aldehydic top, followed by a fruity floral heart, layered over a warm, woody and ambery base. Vivara Parfum — almost exactly the same as Vivara Super. The composition is the same, but the concentration of Vivara Parfum is lower than that of Vivara Super. As a result, it is more discreet and perfectly suited for the active woman, for occasions where a very strong perfume is not appropriate.
- Top notes: Calabrian lemon, Messina bergamot, Iranian galbanum, spice oils, green notes, peach and aldehydes
- Middle notes: carnation, Provencal jasmine, lily of the valley, Bulgarian rose, Grasse may rose absolute and Manila ylang-ylang
- Base notes: Moroccan labdanum, Crau cypress, Indonesian patchouli, Mysore sandalwood, leather, Alpine oakmoss, Java vetiver, ambergris, Siamese benzoin and olibanum
Vivara Parfum opens with a luminous breath of green light and salt-tinged air, immediately evoking the Mediterranean under a high summer sun. Calabrian lemon, grown on Italy’s southern coast where volcanic soil and intense sunlight sharpen its character, bursts first—bright, slightly bitter, and bracing, with a pithy greenness that feels cleansing rather than sweet. This is seamlessly rounded by Messina bergamot from Sicily, prized for its refined balance of citrus zest and soft floral bitterness; it adds elegance and fluidity, smoothing the lemon’s edges.
Iranian galbanum then rises sharply—resinous, intensely green, and almost feral—its sappy, crushed-stem aroma recalling wild herbs and sun-warmed sap. A discreet blend of green notes, reinforced by modern aroma molecules, extends this sensation of foliage and open air, giving the top a sustained freshness. Aldehydes float above the citrus and greens like light on water, imparting a clean, airy sparkle that enhances diffusion and lends the fragrance its breezy, sunlit lift. Beneath this, a soft peach nuance, supported by lactonic synthetics, adds a tender, velvety fruitiness that tempers the sharp greens, while spice oils introduce a gentle warmth that hints at heat without heaviness.
The heart unfolds with an effortless floral harmony that feels both natural and refined, as if flowers were blooming along a coastal path. Carnation brings a dry, clove-like spiciness—elegant and slightly peppery—giving structure and a subtle vintage poise. Provençal jasmine, harvested in southern France where warm days and cool nights intensify its aroma, exudes a creamy, sun-warmed sensuality, its indolic richness kept luminous by the use of refined jasmine aroma chemicals that extend its radiance without weight.
Lily of the valley, re-created through masterful synthetic accords since the flower yields no extract, contributes a cool, watery greenness—clean, dewy, and transparent—linking the bright opening to the fuller florals. The rose pairing is particularly evocative: Bulgarian rose, deep and velvety with spicy, honeyed undertones, provides richness and depth, while Grasse May rose absolute, picked at dawn during its brief spring harvest, offers a softer, petal-smooth sweetness with a warm, almost almond-like nuance. Manila ylang-ylang, lush and tropical, crowns the bouquet with creamy floral warmth and a faint banana-like sweetness, lending a languid, holiday sensuality that never overwhelms.
As Vivara Parfum settles, the base reveals a quietly glowing landscape of woods, resins, and skin-like warmth. Moroccan labdanum, harvested from rockrose shrubs in arid, sun-baked terrain, brings a balsamic, ambered richness—leathery, resinous, and faintly animalic—forming the perfume’s warm backbone. This is echoed by Siamese benzoin, sweeter and more vanillic than other varieties, which softens the resins with a comforting, balsamic glow, while olibanum (frankincense) adds a translucent smokiness that feels meditative and airy rather than heavy.
La Crau cypress, from the windswept plains of southern France, contributes a dry, aromatic greenness—woody and slightly smoky—evoking coastal forests and sun-bleached bark. Indonesian patchouli adds earthy depth with a cool, damp-soil nuance, smoother and less camphorous than other origins. Mysore sandalwood, revered for its creamy, milky woodiness and natural longevity, wraps the base in a soft, sensual warmth, complemented by a subtle leather accord that adds tactile depth and sophistication. Java vetiver, dry and rooty with a smoky green edge, grounds the composition, while Alpine oakmoss lends a cool, mineral forest-floor aroma that anchors the fragrance in classic chypre tradition. Finally, ambergris imparts a salty, skin-warmed radiance, extending the scent’s trail and enhancing its intimate connection to the wearer.
In Vivara Parfum, the same sun-drenched Mediterranean composition as Vivara Super is rendered with a lighter touch. The lower concentration allows the greens to feel airier, the florals more transparent, and the woods softly luminous rather than commanding. Natural essences provide depth, texture, and emotional warmth, while carefully chosen synthetics enhance lift, clarity, and longevity, ensuring the fragrance breathes and evolves gracefully on the skin. The result is a discreet yet expressive balsamic-green perfume—effortlessly elegant, active, and radiant—capturing the spirit of sea air, warm stone, and endless summer days in Emilio Pucci’s unmistakable style.
Product Line:
Vivara was originally available in the following products:
- Parfum (2 oz, 1 oz, 1/2 oz, 1/4 oz)
- Parfum Spray (launched in 1967)
- Parfum Concentree (launched in 1968)
- Eau de Parfum
- Super Perfume (launched in 1966)
- Perfume Oil (launched in 1969)
- Light Perfume (launched in 1968)
- Eau de Vivara (launched in 1968)
- Spray Cologne
- Dusting Powder/Bath Powder (launched in 1967)
- Bath Oil (launched in 1967)
- Stra-Vivara, super cologne for men (launched in 1969)
- Signor Vivara (launched in 1969)
- Molecular bath salts (sali di bagno molecolari) (launched in 1970)
- Mediterranean foaming bath (bagno di schiuma mediterraneo) (launched in 1970)
- After-bath deep moisturizing cream (dopo bagno crema idratante) (launched in 1970)
- Soap (savon) (launched in 1970)
In 1968, Eau de Vivara, the eau de toilette version was released, this is discontinued.
In 1968, Vivara Light Perfume was available in 1 oz, 2 oz, and 4 oz); the Parfum Concentree was available in 0.25 oz and 0.5 oz sizes.
In 1972/1973, Vivara Parfum was available in 1 oz, 2 oz, 4 oz bottles; Box in Pucci colors. Eau de Vivara, introduced in 1968 was available in 2 oz, 4 oz, 8 oz and 16 oz bottles; Non-refillable spray (2 oz).
In 1972/1973, Vivara Super was available in 0.25 oz, 0.5 oz, 1 oz, and 2 oz bottles; presented in a luxury coffret covered in fabric in Emilio Pucci colors, with a precious wood lid.
In 1977/1978, Vivara was available in three different versions:
- The most powerful and long-lasting: Vivara Super (in splash bottles of 7ml, 15ml, 30ml, 60ml)
- A lighter and more subtle version of the same fragrance: Vivara Parfum (in splash bottles of 30ml, 60ml, 120ml); Spray (60ml)
- And finally, a classic eau de toilette: Eau de Vivara (in splash bottles of 60ml, 120ml, 240ml, 480ml); Spray (60ml)
In 1984/1985, Vivara was available in the following formats:
- Parfum Presentation: Vivara Parfum splash bottles (7.5ml, 15ml, 30ml, 60ml); Purse spray and refill
- Related Products: Classic eau de toilette: Eau de Vivara (in splash bottles of 60ml, 120ml, 240ml, 480ml); Natural Spray (60ml and 120ml)
- Ancillary Products: Soap; Foaming bath
The New Yorker, 1967:
"Emilio Pucci's Vivara (in lots of shops) is all sunshine and flowers—a bit sweet but not too much so... has been around for some time; I speak of it now because it has acquired the usual side effects——-purse spray, bath powder, bath oil."
Mademoiselle, 1969:
"Something very fresh and clean and up-tempo about Emilio Pucci's Vivara— something like the lure of the open road. A good breezy perfume to wear in an open convertible."
Stra-Vivara:
Launched in 1969, Stra-Vivara, Super Cologne for Men, is very close to Signor Vivara. It was created to be a superior Eau de Toilette. Its strength is halfway between parfum and eau de toilette. Bold and bracing, it is unisex, suitable for everyone.
- Top notes: aldehyde, bergamot, lemon, artemisia, galbanum, green note, coriander
- Middle notes: lily of the valley, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, ylang ylang, carnation, orris, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood
- Base notes: benzoin, ambergris, costus, musk, castoreum, olibanum, labdanum, myrrh, oakmoss, cypress, leather
Stra-Vivara opens with a brisk, almost exhilarating rush, as if cool air is drawn deep into the lungs at the edge of the sea. Aldehydes flash first—clean, metallic, and sparkling—creating an immediate sense of lift and brightness, like sunlight glinting on waves. This clarity sharpens the natural citrus of bergamot and lemon, their zest vivid and mouthwatering; the bergamot brings a refined, slightly floral bitterness, while the lemon adds a taut, energizing snap.
Artemisia (wormwood) introduces a dry, herbal bitterness, aromatic and slightly camphorous, lending a masculine, green sharpness that contrasts beautifully with the citrus. Galbanum, intensely green and resinous, smells of snapped stems and crushed leaves, anchoring the opening firmly in Mediterranean vegetation. A fresh green note, enhanced by modern aroma molecules, amplifies the sensation of open air and foliage, while coriander seed contributes a gently spicy, citrus-tinged warmth, adding texture and preventing the top from feeling austere.
As the fragrance settles, the heart reveals a complex interplay of florals, woods, and earth, handled with restraint so that nothing feels ornamental. Lily of the valley, built entirely from synthetic accords, adds a cool, watery greenness—dewy, clean, and lightly soapy—acting as a luminous bridge between the sharp opening and the deeper heart. Jasmine introduces a soft, natural sensuality, its creamy floral warmth subtly extended by jasmine aroma chemicals that give diffusion without heaviness.
Bulgarian rose, rich and slightly spicy, brings depth and quiet elegance rather than overt sweetness, while ylang-ylang adds a smooth, exotic creaminess that rounds the floral edges. Carnation contributes its characteristic clove-like spice, lending structure and a faintly old-world refinement. Orris offers a powdery, rooty softness—cool, violet-tinged, and luxurious—creating a tactile, almost suede-like texture. Beneath the florals, patchouli and vetiver introduce earthy contrast: patchouli dark and slightly camphorous, vetiver dry, rooty, and smoky-green. Sandalwood smooths the heart with its creamy, woody warmth, binding floral and earthy elements into a seamless whole.
The base of Stra-Vivara is deep, resinous, and unapologetically sensual, unfolding slowly with remarkable persistence. Benzoin provides a balsamic sweetness, smooth and comforting, while labdanum adds an ambered, leathery warmth reminiscent of sun-heated rock and resin. Ambergris lends a subtle mineral salinity and skin-like glow, extending the fragrance’s trail and giving it a quietly animalic warmth.
The animalic core is deepened by costus, musky and slightly wild, paired with castoreum, leathery and smoky, evoking worn leather and warmth rather than aggression. Musk, used as a soft fixative, rounds these notes, making them feel intimate and wearable. Sacred resins—olibanum and myrrh—rise gently, cool and incense-like, adding clarity and a contemplative, almost ritual calm. Oakmoss anchors the base with its damp, forest-floor greenness, while cypress reinforces the dry, aromatic woodiness first hinted at in the opening. A refined leather note lingers at the very end, smooth and supple, giving the fragrance its final masculine-leaning yet unmistakably unisex signature.
Stra-Vivara’s brilliance lies in how natural materials and synthetics are woven together: aldehydes and green aroma chemicals provide lift, clarity, and diffusion, allowing dense resins, woods, and animalic notes to breathe rather than overwhelm. The result is bold and bracing, yet balanced—an Eau de Toilette elevated almost to parfum strength—projecting confidence, vitality, and a timeless Mediterranean elegance that feels equally compelling on any wearer.
In 1972/1973, Stra Vivara was available in a 4 oz bottle, exceptional for its closure system, which featured a watertight sliding mechanism instead of a screw cap. It came in a very luxurious, fabric-covered presentation box.
Signor Vivara:
Launched in 1969, Signor Vivara is a woody, chypre, leather type perfume. It is composed of guaiac wood, Bourbon vetiver, citron, bergamot, artemisia, thyme, and basil. Unique and distinct from all others, it is often adopted by avant-garde women. Suitable for all occasions.
It is classified as a leathery chypre fragrance for men. It begins with fresh spicy top, followed by w floral woody heart, resting on warm, leathery, mossy base.
- Top notes: aldehyde, bergamot, citron, artemisia, galbanum, green note, coriander, basil
- Middle notes: thyme, jasmine, carnation, orris, patchouli, Bourbon vetiver, sandalwood
- Base notes: guaiac wood, ambergris, costus, musk, castoreum, myrrh, moss, leather
Signor Vivara opens with a bracing, aromatic clarity that immediately signals its confident, chypre character. Aldehydes flash first, lending a crisp, almost metallic brightness that lifts the composition and creates the sensation of cool air rushing over skin. Citron and bergamot follow—citron sharp, dry, and slightly bitter, less juicy than lemon and evocative of Mediterranean zest; bergamot softer and more refined, its floral-citrus nuance smoothing the edges of the opening.
A vivid green backbone emerges through artemisia, whose herbal bitterness smells dry and slightly camphorous, and galbanum, intensely resinous and green, conjuring crushed leaves and sap. A modern green note, built with aroma chemicals, amplifies this effect, giving the opening an expansive, open-air freshness. Coriander seed adds a warm, citrus-tinged spice, while basil contributes a peppery, leafy sweetness that feels sun-warmed and distinctly Mediterranean.
The heart unfolds into a sophisticated interplay of herbs, florals, and woods, where Signor Vivara reveals its elegance beneath the bold exterior. Thyme introduces a dry, aromatic greenness—savory and slightly leathery—reinforcing the perfume’s herbal core. Jasmine appears not as overt sensuality but as a subtle floral glow, softened and extended by jasmine aroma molecules that lend diffusion without heaviness.
Carnation adds a clove-like spiciness, crisp and structured, while orris brings a powdery, rooty refinement, cool and violet-tinged, lending a tactile softness to the heart. Patchouli deepens the composition with earthy darkness, while Bourbon vetiver, grown on Réunion Island, contributes a smoky, dry, and refined rootiness—cleaner and more elegant than many vetiver varieties—providing vertical structure and longevity. Sandalwood smooths the heart with creamy, woody warmth, binding herbal, floral, and earthy facets into a seamless accord.
The base of Signor Vivara is warm, leathery, and unmistakably chypre, unfolding slowly with commanding presence. Guaiac wood forms the core: smoky, resinous, and slightly tar-like, with a distinctive leathery warmth that feels both rugged and refined. Leather notes, reinforced by castoreum, bring depth and animalic warmth—suggestive of worn leather rather than raw hide—balanced by the musky softness of musk, which makes the base feel intimate and wearable.
Costus adds a subtle animalic, rooty nuance, echoing the vetiver while enhancing the leather accord. Ambergris contributes a mineral, salty glow, extending the fragrance’s trail and giving it a quietly sensual, skin-like warmth. Myrrh introduces a cool, balsamic resinousness, slightly bitter and incense-like, adding gravity and calm. Finally, oakmoss anchors the composition with its damp, forest-floor greenness, completing the classic chypre structure.
Throughout Signor Vivara, the interplay between natural materials and synthetics is masterfully balanced: aldehydes and green aroma chemicals provide lift, clarity, and diffusion, allowing dense woods, resins, and animalic notes to breathe. The result is a woody, leathery chypre that feels bold yet refined—distinctive enough to appeal to avant-garde women as well as men—projecting individuality, confidence, and a timeless Mediterranean sophistication suitable for any occasion.
In 1972/1973, Signor Vivara was available in the following formats:
- Presentation: Eau de Toilette in gold-plated glass splash bottle (3 oz, 6 oz); non-refillable EDT spray (3 oz)
- Shaving Products: After Shave (3 oz)
- Ancillary Products: soap
In 1977/1978, Signor Vivara was available in the following formats:
- Presentation: Eau de Toilette splash bottles (3.3 oz, 6.7 oz); EDT Spray (2 oz)
- Shaving Products: After Shave (3.3 oz)
- Ancillary Products: Soap
In 1984/1985, Signor Vivara was available in the following formats:
- Presentation: Eau de Toilette splash bottles (100ml, 200ml, 400ml); EDT Spray (60ml, 120ml)
- Shaving Products: After Shave (100ml, 200ml)
- Ancillary Products: Soap; Bubble bath; Deodorant
Bottles:
The bottle for Stra-Vivara was designed by sculptor Serge Mansau in 1965 and produced in France by Pochet et du Courval.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown. Vivara and Signor Vivara was still being sold in 1989.
2007 Reformulation & Relaunch:
In 2007, Vivara was reformulated by François Demachy, Nathalie Gracia-Cetto, and Marie-Aude Couture-Bluche and relaunched in a new flacon, marking a clear departure from its original incarnation. While it retained the historic name, the reissue bears little resemblance to the 1960s Vivara in either structure or character. The newer version is classified as a chypre floral fragrance for women, reflecting contemporary tastes rather than the balsamic, green, Mediterranean profile that defined the original. Sleeker and more modern in style, the reformulation favors a polished floral-chypre balance over the sun-warmed resins, aromatic herbs, and salty coastal nuances that once evoked Pucci’s vision of Mediterranean freedom, making it less a revival than a reinterpretation designed for a new generation.
It is classified as a chypre floral fragrance for women.
Three limited edition bottles:
- Top notes: amaretto, galbanum and Calabrian bergamot
- Middle notes: daffodil flowers, orange blossom, Sambac jasmine and narcissus
- Base notes: patchouli, Florentine iris and vetiver
The 2007 reissue of Vivara opens with a polished, contemporary brightness that immediately signals a modern chypre floral interpretation rather than a recreation of the original. A soft, gourmand-leaning amaretto note appears first—almond-like, slightly bittersweet, and gently powdery—adding a creamy warmth that feels smooth rather than edible. This almond facet is often built with aroma molecules related to benzaldehyde, which give a marzipan-like glow while remaining transparent and refined.
Cutting through this softness is galbanum, sharp and vividly green, its resinous bitterness evoking snapped stems and crushed leaves. The contrast between the creamy almond nuance and galbanum’s bracing greenness creates immediate tension and sophistication. Calabrian bergamot, grown in southern Italy’s sun-drenched groves, brings clarity and elegance—less acidic and more floral than many bergamots—its citrus sparkle gently amplified by modern citrus aromachemicals that extend freshness and diffusion without harshness.
As the fragrance moves into its heart, the floral composition unfolds with luminous restraint. Daffodil flowers (narcissus) lend a distinctive green-floral tone—slightly hay-like, softly indolic, and faintly leathery—suggesting spring blossoms warmed by sunlight rather than overt sweetness. This note is often enhanced with synthetic facets to control its naturally wild character, smoothing sharp edges while preserving its green sensuality.
Orange blossom adds a bright, honeyed radiance, floral yet fresh, with a delicate citrus echo that ties back to the bergamot. Sambac jasmine, richer and creamier than many other jasmine varieties, contributes a velvety white floral warmth, subtly indolic and softly exotic; jasmine aroma molecules help lift and clarify this richness, keeping it airy and contemporary. Narcissus, deeper and more shadowed than daffodil alone, reinforces the heart with a nuanced green-floral depth—slightly animalic, slightly earthy—adding character and complexity without heaviness.
The base settles into a clean, modern chypre structure, refined and softly elegant. Patchouli provides an earthy foundation, smoother and more polished than vintage interpretations, its darker facets likely filtered and paired with modern patchouli fractions to emphasize cleanliness over camphor. Florentine iris, prized for its rarity and cost, brings a cool, powdery sophistication—rooty, violet-tinged, and faintly buttery—its natural luxury enhanced by synthetic ionones that extend its powdery sheen and longevity. Vetiver anchors the base with dry, woody elegance, its grassy, root-like character lending structure and quiet depth while remaining transparent and wearable. Together, these notes form a restrained, contemporary drydown that lingers close to the skin, elegant rather than dramatic.
Overall, the 2007 Vivara reads as a refined chypre floral shaped by modern perfumery sensibilities. Natural materials provide recognizable texture and emotion, while carefully chosen synthetics polish the composition—smoothing contrasts, enhancing diffusion, and ensuring balance. The result is a fragrance that feels clean, elegant, and quietly confident, interpreting the Vivara name through a contemporary lens rather than evoking the sun-drenched, resinous Mediterranean spirit of its original predecessor.
Three limited edition bottles:
- 2008 Vivara Silver Edition, it is the same 2007 Vivara fragrance but housed in a limited edition silver colored bottle.
- 2009 Vivara Black Edition, it is the same 2007 Vivara fragrance but housed in a limited edition black colored bottle.
- 2010 Vivara Turquoise Edition, it is the same 2007 Vivara fragrance but housed in a limited edition turquoise blue colored bottle.
Vivara Variazioni Collection of Eau de Toilettes, comprises up of four different variations of the 2007 fragrance Vivara, through the elements of water, sand and sun.
Vivara Variazioni Sole 149 (2009):
Vivara Variazioni Sole 149, created by Michel Girard. It is classified as an aromatic fragrance for women.
- Top notes: tomato leaf, galbanum
- Middle notes: Sambac jasmine
- Base notes: patchouli and vetiver
Vivara Variazioni Sole 149 opens with a strikingly green, almost tactile freshness that feels sunlit yet unconventional, like brushing your hand across living foliage in a Mediterranean garden at midday. The first impression comes from tomato leaf, a note prized in modern perfumery for its intensely vegetal character. It smells sharp, green, and slightly acidic, with a faint sulfurous edge that recalls crushed stems and sun-warmed vines. Because tomato leaf yields little usable essential oil, this note is constructed through aroma molecules that mimic its crisp, leafy facets; these synthetics give precision and consistency, capturing the exact sensation of snapped greenery without heaviness. Galbanum reinforces this verdant opening with its resinous bitterness—dark green, sappy, and incisive—evoking wild shrubs and aromatic sap. Together, tomato leaf and galbanum create a bold, aromatic top that feels alive, radiant, and unapologetically modern.
As the fragrance develops, the heart reveals a surprising softness in the form of Sambac jasmine, which blooms like white flowers glowing against green leaves. Sambac jasmine, traditionally sourced from regions such as India, is richer and creamier than many other jasmine varieties, with a subtly fruity, tea-like nuance and a gentle indolic warmth. Here, it is treated with restraint: jasmine aroma chemicals are used to lift and diffuse the natural richness, keeping the floral transparent and luminous rather than voluptuous. The result is a jasmine that feels sun-warmed and airy, providing a graceful counterpoint to the sharp greenness of the opening and adding a quiet sensuality at the heart.
The base of Variazioni Sole 149 is clean, dry, and elegantly grounded. Patchouli provides an earthy foundation—smoothed and refined, with its darker, camphorous facets softened through fractionation and modern synthetics that emphasize cleanliness and warmth. Vetiver completes the structure with its dry, rooty woodiness; grassy and slightly smoky, it adds verticality and calm, anchoring the fragrance without weighing it down. Together, these base notes create a subtle, sun-dried finish that lingers close to the skin.
In its entirety, Vivara Variazioni Sole 149 feels like a minimalist Mediterranean tableau: green leaves shimmering in heat, white flowers blooming quietly in their shade, and dry earth beneath. The intelligent use of synthetics—especially in the tomato leaf and jasmine accords—enhances the natural materials by sharpening their clarity, extending their presence, and ensuring balance. The result is an aromatic fragrance that is modern, expressive, and quietly confident, offering a distinctive interpretation of sunlight and greenery through a refined contemporary lens.
Vivara Variazioni Sabbia 167 (2009):
Vivara Variazioni Sabbia 167, created by Annick Menardo, is classified as a citrus fragrance for women, inspired by the sun-scorched sands of the Mediterranean.
- Top notes: mandarin, lemon
- Middle notes: iris
- Base notes: sandalwood
Vivara Variazioni Sabbia 167 opens with the sensation of sunlight hitting warm skin, rendered through a clean, radiant burst of citrus. Mandarin appears first—soft, juicy, and gently sweet, with a rounded brightness that feels more caressing than sharp. Mediterranean mandarins are prized for this very quality: their aroma is less acidic than other citrus fruits, offering a smooth, golden glow rather than a bracing bite. Lemon follows, crisp and luminous, its zest cutting through the mandarin’s sweetness with a dry, sunlit sharpness. Modern citrus aroma chemicals subtly reinforce both fruits, extending their freshness and preventing the top from fading too quickly, while keeping the effect airy and sheer—like light reflecting off pale sand.
As the citrus warmth settles, the heart reveals iris, lending the fragrance its unexpected depth and elegance. Iris, traditionally sourced from the rhizomes of Florentine iris, is among the most precious materials in perfumery, valued for its cool, powdery, and faintly woody scent. Here it smells soft and suede-like, with delicate violet and buttery nuances that evoke fine cosmetic powder warmed by the sun. Because natural iris is so rare and subtle, it is enhanced with ionone-based aroma molecules, which amplify its powdery, floral facets and give it clarity and persistence. This interplay between natural and synthetic elements allows the iris to feel both refined and modern, floating gently between the brightness of the citrus opening and the warmth of the base.
The base of Sabbia 167 rests on sandalwood, smooth and creamy, providing a serene, sun-dried foundation. Sandalwood’s milky woodiness evokes warm skin and pale driftwood, its calming richness grounding the composition without heaviness. Modern sandalwood aroma chemicals likely support the natural note, enhancing its longevity and adding a clean, velvety smoothness that feels contemporary and understated.
In its entirety, Vivara Variazioni Sabbia 167 is minimalist yet evocative—a portrait of citrus light, powdery warmth, and soft wood. The careful balance of natural materials and synthetics creates a fragrance that feels like sun-warmed sand beneath bare feet: luminous, serene, and quietly sensual, capturing the Mediterranean not through excess, but through refined simplicity.
Vivara Variazioni Acqua 330 (2009):
Vivara Variazioni Acqua 330, created by Christophe Raynaud and Louise Turner, is classified as an aquatic floral fragrance for women, inspired by the blue waters of the Mediterranean.
- Top notes: violet leaf and sea accords
- Middle notes: jasmine and frangipani
- Base notes: musk
Vivara Variazioni Acqua 330 opens with a breath of cool, blue freshness that immediately evokes the shimmering surface of the Mediterranean. Violet leaf introduces a crisp, green-watered note—cool, metallic, and slightly cucumber-like—suggesting dew on leaves and the shaded edges of water. Unlike violet flower, violet leaf smells sharper and more vegetal, and because it yields little usable natural essence, this note is recreated through carefully tuned aroma molecules that capture its watery-green snap with precision and consistency.
Alongside it, a modern sea accord unfurls: mineral, airy, and lightly saline, reminiscent of ocean spray carried on the wind. Built from synthetic materials such as calone-like molecules and ozonic notes, the accord conveys the sensation of open water without heaviness, enhancing the natural greenness of violet leaf and amplifying the illusion of coolness and space.
As the fragrance moves into its heart, the aquatic freshness softens into sunlit florals that feel warm and gently exotic. Jasmine blooms first, lending a clean, radiant floral glow—creamy yet transparent—its natural sensuality refined by jasmine aroma chemicals that lift and diffuse the note, keeping it luminous rather than indolic. Frangipani, also known as plumeria, adds a tropical dimension: soft, creamy, and slightly almond-like, with a solar warmth that evokes white flowers basking in the sun near the sea. Because frangipani is typically reconstructed rather than extracted, synthetic accords play a crucial role here, blending floral, lactonic, and subtly fruity facets to create a believable, glowing floral heart that feels both modern and evocative.
The base of Acqua 330 is anchored by musk, clean and softly enveloping. Modern musks provide a smooth, skin-like warmth, extending the fragrance’s longevity while maintaining a sheer, airy finish. They soften the transition from watery freshness to floral warmth, allowing the scent to linger like a veil on sun-kissed skin without overwhelming the senses.
Taken as a whole, Vivara Variazioni Acqua 330 captures the interplay of water, light, and warmth with elegant restraint. The intelligent use of synthetics—especially in the sea and frangipani accords—enhances the natural floral notes, creating clarity, diffusion, and a lasting sense of freshness. The result is an aquatic floral that feels fluid, serene, and contemporary, mirroring the endless blue of the Mediterranean and the quiet luxury of a moment by the sea.
Vivara Variazioni Verdi 072 (2011):
Vivara Variazioni Verdi 072, is inspired by the cool freshness of aquatic herbs.
- Top notes: bergamot and mint
- Middle notes: Turkish rose and neroli
- Base notes: cedar and tonka bean
Vivara Variazioni Verdi 072 opens with a sensation of cool clarity, as if stepping into shade after sun, where water, leaves, and air mingle. The first impression is shaped by bergamot, most prized when sourced from Calabria in southern Italy, where the unique balance of sea air, mineral-rich soil, and intense sunlight produces an essential oil that is simultaneously sparkling and softly bitter. Here, it smells freshly zested—bright, green, and lightly floral—its natural complexity often enhanced with bergapten-free fractions and subtle citrus aroma molecules that extend its radiance without sharpening the edges.
Alongside it, mint releases a rush of crystalline freshness: green, aromatic, and cooling, with a faintly sweet herbal bite. Natural mint oil provides the recognizable leafy snap, while mentholated aroma chemicals refine and smooth the sensation, giving the note a clean, aqueous chill that reinforces the fragrance’s aquatic-herbal theme.
As the top notes settle, the heart reveals a graceful floral contrast that feels both cooling and tender. Turkish rose, traditionally cultivated in the Isparta region of Turkey, is renowned for its lush yet transparent character—dewy, petal-soft, and faintly honeyed, with none of the heavy jamminess found in some other rose origins. You can almost sense the cool morning air of the rose fields as the blossoms are harvested at dawn. This natural rose nuance is subtly amplified by rose aroma molecules, which highlight its fresh, green facets and allow it to float lightly rather than dominate.
Neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree and historically associated with the sunlit groves of the Mediterranean, adds a luminous citrus-floral glow. It smells gently sweet, green, and faintly soapy, with a delicate bitterness underneath. Modern neroli accords often combine natural oil with orange-flower molecules that brighten its clarity and prolong its airy elegance.
The base notes bring a quiet, grounding warmth that feels like sun-warmed wood after a cool swim. Cedar, typically evoking the clean dryness of pencil shavings and pale woods, provides structure and calm; its naturally dry, slightly resinous aroma is often reinforced with cedarwood molecules that sharpen its linearity and ensure longevity. Tonka bean rounds the composition with a soft, velvety sweetness. Rich in natural coumarin, tonka smells of warm hay, almond, and vanilla-like warmth. When paired with synthetic coumarin notes, its comforting sweetness becomes smoother and more transparent, lending the fragrance a gentle, lingering caress rather than a gourmand weight.
Together, these elements create a fragrance that feels fresh yet composed, cool yet softly sensual. The interplay of natural ingredients and carefully chosen aroma chemicals allows Vivara Variazioni Verdi 072 to evoke aquatic herbs and shaded gardens with remarkable clarity—crisp mint and bergamot cooling the skin, rose and neroli blooming quietly at the heart, and cedar and tonka settling into a serene, lasting warmth that whispers rather than declares.
