Showing posts with label Expression by Jacques Fath (1977). Show all posts
Showing posts with label Expression by Jacques Fath (1977). Show all posts

Saturday, February 7, 2015

Expression by Jacques Fath (1977)

Expression by Jacques Fath was launched in 1977. 


in paragraphs, describe details - - - rewrite if needed to sound professional, but engaging - Expression by Jacques Fath was launched in 1977. Why would Jacques Fath choose the name "Expression"? What does the word "Expression" mean, what language, how is it pronounced (in layman’s terms)? What images and emotions does the word "Expression" evoke? Describe the time period in which this perfume was launched, what was happening, what period in this known as, what were fashions, trends, and its influence on perfumery? How would women of the time period have related to a perfume called "Expression" ? How would the word "Expression" be interpreted in scent? Created by Raymond Chaillan. It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women with a chypre base. Mossy and floral enriched with a blend of exotic woods and ambergris. It begins with a fresh floral top, followed by an elegant floral heart, resting on a sensual, powdery, woody base. In the context of other fragrances on the market, was this fragrance unique for the time period or did it fall in line with other trends?





Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Expression by Jacques Fath is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women with a chypre base. Expression by Jacques Fath is a chypre fragrance with a floral heart resting on a woody and ambery base. It is composed of mandarin, hyacinth, iris, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, basil, patchouli, vetiver, coriander, oakmoss, labdanum, and benzoin, accented by a touch of apricot and subtle animalic notes. Mossy and floral enriched with a blend of exotic woods and ambergris. Rich, warm, and very feminine, Expression blends intimately with the skin and remains true from morning until evening. Designed for warm, refined women, it is suitable for all occasions.  It begins with a fresh floral top, followed by an elegant floral heart, resting on a sensual, powdery, woody base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian mandarin, apricot, peach, raspberry, Dutch hyacinth, flower calyx accord, Italian basil, green note accord,
  • Middle notes: Russian coriander, Persian galbanum, Bourbon geranium, Riviera jasmine, Florentine orris, Grasse rose, rose oxide, Provencal honey, Zanzibar carnation and Comoros ylang ylang
  • Base notes: Indonesian patchouli, Haitian vetiver, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Virginian cedar, Tonkin musk, Omani frankincense, beeswax absolute, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Spanish labdanum, Siam benzoin, leather 





Scent Profile:


Expression by Jacques Fath opens like the first breath of spring morning air, carried on a gentle breeze that stirs the senses awake. At once, a luminous burst of aldehydes adds an effervescent sparkle—shimmering, champagne-like, and slightly soapy—setting a tone of elegance and radiance. This brightness is enriched by Calabrian bergamot and Sicilian mandarin, both fruits sun-soaked and zesty, offering their tartness softened by a delicate apricot note that smells like the velvet skin of ripe fruit. Juicy peach and ruby raspberries lend a succulent, tangy sweetness that brightens the bouquet. A soft floral breath from Dutch hyacinth—watery, green, and slightly metallic—adds an almost dewy freshness, while a flower calyx accord (evoking the green sepals that cradle a bloom) deepens the vegetal nuances. Italian basil and a vivid green note accord lend herbal sharpness and chlorophyll-rich vibrancy, calling to mind crushed leaves warmed by the sun.

The heart of the fragrance opens with dimension and warmth. Russian coriander brings an aromatic spiciness that is peppery, nutty, and slightly citrusy. Persian galbanum follows with its bitter-green intensity, full of penetrating, resinous depth that bridges the top and base. Bourbon geranium, rich and rosy with hints of mint, partners with the intoxicating Riviera jasmine and lush Grasse rose to form a floral core that feels indulgent and alive. Rose oxide, a key aroma molecule, introduces a modern metallic sheen that lifts and illuminates the florals, sharpening the rose and giving it a contemporary edge. This brilliant floral layer is softened by the golden sweetness of Provencal honey—thick, resinous, and gently animalic—mingling with the clove-like spice of Zanzibar carnation. Finally, the buttery richness and faint banana-like sweetness of Comoros ylang ylang finishes the heart with a plush, tropical sensuality.

The base notes unfold with a deep and comforting complexity. Indonesian patchouli—earthy, chocolatey, and slightly camphoraceous—grounds the perfume in sultry soil, while Haitian vetiver brings a smoky, dry greenness with an elegant bitter edge. Yugoslavian oakmoss adds a classic chypre character: damp, mossy, and shadowy, like the floor of an ancient forest. Virginian cedar imparts pencil-shaving dryness and clarity, while Tonkin musk and beeswax absolute create a soft, animalic warmth that is velvety and tactile. Omani frankincense—lemony, resinous, and spiritual—infuses the dry down with incense-like calm. Ambergris lends a diffusive, salty, skin-like glow, while Spanish labdanum and Siam benzoin add deep amber warmth, labdanum being tarry and leathery, while benzoin is balsamic, sweet, and comforting. The final whisper of leather is supple and luxurious, a polished echo of skin and elegance that lingers like memory.

Expression is a perfume that moves in waves—from sparkling top to opulent heart to the shadowed, smoldering base. It feels like a story told through flowers, resins, and light, each note distinct yet seamlessly interwoven. A fragrance for a woman who leaves an impression not through force, but by grace and depth—just as the name suggests: Expression.


Product Line:


Expression by Jacques Fath was not merely a fragrance—it was a scented experience presented in an impressive and diverse array of formats, each tailored to suit different moments, moods, and styles of wearing perfume. This wide range of offerings demonstrated both the house’s elegance and its thoughtful approach to accessibility and personal ritual.

For the collector or the lover of tiny luxuries, the 2ml Parfum mini and 3.5ml Parfum Purse Spray provided concentrated expressions of the perfume in precious, portable formats. The 4.5ml Parfum splash mini added another delicate variation, ideal for discreet dabbing and layering. Most unique among these offerings was the 5ml “Bijou” Parfum Pendant on Cord, a wearable vial of perfume—a nod to both fashion and the timeless romance of personal fragrance. This charming accessory allowed the wearer to carry the scent close to the skin, in the tradition of antique scent lockets.

Slightly larger splash bottles such as the 7ml, 14ml, 28ml, 30ml, and 40ml Parfum Splash bottles reflected traditional French perfumery at its most elegant. Each allowed for a precise and sensual application using the fingertips or a glass stopper, encouraging an intimate connection with the scent. These sizes catered to perfume lovers who valued the ritual of parfum application—dabbing the pulse points, layering for depth, and allowing the rich floral chypre to develop slowly.

For those who preferred the ease and lift of lighter formulations, Expression was also available in a wide range of Eau de Toilette concentrations. The 3.5ml and 5ml EDT minis were charming introductions or keepsakes, while the 25ml and 47ml sprays offered chic everyday options. Larger splash bottles, such as the 50ml EDT splash, suggested a more generous application or even a shared fragrance on a vanity. The 80ml and 100ml Eau de Toilette sprays and splashes were created for those who desired both longevity and projection in a more radiant interpretation of the scent—ideal for daytime wear or warm weather.

Each format invited a different relationship with Expression, whether it was a jewel-like treasure, a daily signature, or a sensual ritual. The diversity of sizes and forms speaks to the artistry of Jacques Fath’s house: luxurious yet thoughtful, grand yet personal.

In 1977/1978, Expression was available in the following:
  • Parfum Presentations: Bottles (0.25 oz, 0.5 oz, 1 oz); Natural Spray (10ml); Prestige Presentation (1/8 oz in a pendant, 1/2 oz in a luxury gift box)
  • Related Products: Eau de Toilette splash bottles (50ml, 100ml, 200ml); Natural sprays (40ml and 80ml)




Bottles:



The bottle was designed by Serge Mansau in 1977.


 

Fate of the Fragrance:



Expression by Jacques Fath, though long discontinued, maintained a presence well into the mid-1980s—a testament to its enduring appeal and the loyalty it inspired among those who wore it. Officially discontinued at an unknown date, the fragrance was still being sold as late as 1986, with remaining stock appearing at fine perfume counters and specialty retailers.

This lingering availability speaks to both the fragrance’s quality and its status as a quiet classic within the Jacques Fath portfolio. Unlike scents that fade quickly from memory, Expression had a staying power rooted in its complex structure—a floral oriental with a mossy chypre base and warm woody depth. Even after production ceased, customers continued to seek it out, purchasing what was left of the original bottles as cherished keepsakes or beloved personal signatures.

By 1986, however, the perfume world was already shifting. The bold compositions of earlier decades were giving way to lighter, more transparent florals and aquatic notes that would dominate the late 1980s and into the 1990s. In that context, Expression stood apart: rich, layered, and unapologetically elegant. Its slow disappearance marked the end of an era—not just for Jacques Fath, but for a style of perfumery that prized sophistication, complexity, and olfactory storytelling. Today, Expression survives in memory, on vintage vanities, and among collectors who recognize its place in perfume history.

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