Porcelain & Silver Plate Vanity Sets Catalog Page c1907

Images shown in an advertisement from a 1907 Fort Dearborn Watch & Clock Co. Catalog, Chicago, Il.

Celluloid Toilet Sets Advertising Catalog Page c1894

In the late 19th century, vanity and dresser sets were often made from new and fashionable materials that captured the imagination of consumers eager for modernity. The 1893/1894 Marshall Field’s catalog featured examples in celluloid, zylonite (xylonite), and “Florence” composition, each offering its own distinct qualities of beauty and practicality. These materials allowed for elaborate molded designs, often decorated with scrolls, floral motifs, or Japanese-inspired patterns that reflected the Aesthetic Movement’s fascination with exoticism and natural forms. The result was an affordable yet stylish alternative to ivory or tortoiseshell, making such sets attainable for a broader audience while still conveying refinement.

Celluloid, first patented in the 1860s, was one of the earliest synthetic plastics. Made from nitrocellulose and camphor, it was hailed as a “miracle material” for its ability to mimic the appearance of costly natural substances such as ivory, coral, or mother-of-pearl. Lightweight, moldable, and capable of being tinted in many shades, celluloid quickly became a favorite for vanity items, jewelry, and decorative goods. Its drawback, however, was flammability—celluloid was notoriously unstable when exposed to heat or flame. Despite this, it was widely popular, particularly in pale ivory shades that imitated expensive tusk ivory.

Zylonite (also spelled xylonite) was a closely related material, essentially another trade name for early celluloid, developed in Britain around the same time. Like celluloid, it was derived from nitrocellulose and camphor, but it was marketed under different brand names by competing companies. In catalogs such as Marshall Field’s, zylonite was often used interchangeably with celluloid to describe molded dresser sets, combs, brushes, and mirrors. Its smooth surface and durability made it especially suited for everyday grooming tools, while still retaining the elegant look of ivory or carved bone.

“Florence” composition (sometimes called White Florence) referred to a molded composition material designed specifically to replicate ivory at a lower cost. Unlike celluloid and zylonite, which were true plastics, Florence was a composite material, likely a mixture of ground minerals, resins, and binders pressed into molds. It had a softer, chalky appearance compared to the glossy surface of celluloid, and was often left in creamy white finishes that mimicked polished ivory. Florence composition could be elaborately molded into ornate Aesthetic patterns, including Japanese-inspired motifs such as fans, birds, and stylized florals. Its affordability made it appealing to households seeking fashionable dressing sets without the expense of true ivory or sterling silver mountings.

Together, these materials signaled a turning point in consumer goods: the embrace of synthetic and composite materials that allowed middle-class buyers access to luxury-inspired products. The molded vanity sets from Marshall Field’s catalog not only highlight the technological ingenuity of the era but also reflect the aesthetic tastes of the 1890s—where exoticism, refinement, and affordability intersected in the intimate objects of the dressing table.

images: ebay seller mima48

Victorian Era Aluminum Perfume Bottles Catalog Page c1896

In the late Victorian era, aluminum perfume bottles and powder puff boxes represented both novelty and modernity. Featured in an 1896 catalog publication known as the “Busiest House in America”, these items would have seemed at once fashionable and forward-looking, a reflection of how quickly aluminum shifted from a rare luxury to a practical material for everyday use. Perfume bottles made of aluminum were light, sleek, and resistant to tarnish, which made them appealing alternatives to silver or other metals that required frequent polishing. Likewise, powder puff boxes in aluminum offered durability and a bright, silvery finish that could retain its shine over time, making them perfect companions on a Victorian lady’s vanity table.

The idea of using aluminum for perfume bottles may seem unusual today, but at the time the material was viewed as innovative and prestigious. Only a few decades earlier, in the mid-19th century, aluminum was more valuable than gold due to the difficulty of extracting pure metal from ore. At the Exposition Universelle of 1855 in Paris, bars of aluminum were displayed as marvels of modern science, and Napoleon III famously served his most distinguished guests with aluminum cutlery while lesser guests used gold—a striking reminder of aluminum’s status as a rare luxury.

By the 1890s, however, advances in production, particularly the Hall–Héroult process (patented in 1886), made aluminum far more affordable. This revolutionized its use, transforming it from a scientific curiosity into a versatile material for household and personal goods. Manufacturers eagerly promoted aluminum as “untarnishable”, highlighting its resistance to the discoloration and polishing demands associated with sterling silver. For consumers, this meant an attractive, silvery vanity item that maintained its luster with little effort—an appealing quality for both practical use and aesthetic display.

Thus, aluminum perfume bottles and powder boxes of the 1890s embody the intersection of science, fashion, and industry. They reflected the fascination with new materials, the desire for hygienic and easy-to-maintain grooming tools, and the broader spirit of innovation that defined the late Victorian era. These pieces also stand as charming artifacts of a brief moment in time when aluminum was still considered modern, prestigious, and slightly exotic before becoming commonplace in the 20th century.

Bohemian Glass Vinaigrettes & Perfume Bottles c1901 Catalog Ad

Victorian/Edwardian era Bohemian glass perfume/cologne bottles from a 1901 02 A. C. McClurg & Co. publication. Many of the decorated bottles look as if they were made by Moser. The chatelaine scent bottles are beautiful.