Empress of India by Prince Matchabelli, launched in 1929, was a fragrance steeped in opulence and imperial nostalgia. Its very name—Empress of India—was a direct nod to Queen Victoria, who bore the title during the height of the British Empire. The phrase conjures images of jeweled thrones, richly embroidered silks, perfumed palaces, and the long-reaching mystique of the East as imagined through Western eyes. At a time when exoticism and colonial romanticism were still strong cultural influences, a perfume bearing this title would have evoked a sense of regal authority, sensual grandeur, and distant lands shimmering in spice-scented heat.
Launched at the cusp of the Great Depression, Empress of India reflected the end of the extravagant Roaring Twenties—a time known for its jazz-fueled decadence, modernist fashion, and a dramatic shift in women’s roles and styles. Perfume during this period became a significant form of self-expression, and oriental-style fragrances in particular gained immense popularity for their perceived mystery and sensuality. As women increasingly embraced bold new freedoms, they also embraced bolder scents. Matchabelli’s Empress of India fit squarely within this trend but distinguished itself through its deeply evocative theme and luxurious execution.
The fragrance was described evocatively as “a memory of the unforgettable Orient,” intended to transport the wearer to a dreamscape of spice markets, incense smoke, and flower-scented evenings. Its composition was unmistakably rich—heavy, warm, and spicy—anchored by Mysore sandalwood, one of the most prized perfumery materials of Indian origin. It wove together notes of exotic champaca flower, clove-like carnation, vetiver, and heady jasmine, conjuring the layered intensity of Indian perfumery traditions while filtered through a Western lens.
