In 1927, Marcel Weil, one of the brothers behind the Parisian fur house Les Fourrures Weil, founded Parfums Weil—a bold and creative expansion of the family business. The idea was born from a practical concern voiced by one of their regular clients: Was there a perfume that could be worn with furs without damaging them? In response, Parfums Weil launched its first commercial fragrances, proudly advertising them as “perfumes for furs.” These scents were specially formulated to be safe for delicate pelts, adding not just fragrance, but a sense of luxury and exclusivity to the fur-wearing experience.
The first of these was Zibeline, introduced the same year. The name “Zibeline” is derived from the French word for sable, the luxurious fur known for its softness, richness, and dark luster. Pronounced zee-buh-leen, “zibeline” evokes images of aristocratic opulence, icy steppes, and the indulgent warmth of deep, glossy fur. The word has French roots, but ultimately descends from Slavic languages via Italian and Latin. It’s not only the name of an animal but also a type of fabric used in couture—soft, brushed wool woven to resemble the fur of the sable. The emotional resonance of the name is unmistakable: it suggests mystery, sensuality, winter nights, and wealth.
To launch such a fragrance in 1927 was especially significant. This was the heart of the Roaring Twenties, or Les Années Folles as the French called them—an era of tremendous cultural, artistic, and social upheaval. Women had emerged from World War I with a newfound sense of independence and visibility. They cut their hair short, embraced modern silhouettes, and adopted bold makeup. Fashion designers like Coco Chanel revolutionized wardrobes with simplified, elegant styles suited to the modern woman’s dynamic life. In perfumery, the 1920s saw the rise of the aldehydic floral, a trend set in motion by Chanel No. 5 in 1921. Aldehydes were used to lend perfumes a radiant, champagne-like sparkle—elegant, abstract, and daringly modern.
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| c1928 |
Zibeline fit beautifully into this world. Created by Claude Fraysse, the perfume was classified as a sweet, heady aldehydic floral, but it had a distinctive character shaped by its concept. It opened with a fresh, spicy aldehydic sparkle, leading into a sumptuous floral heart—jasmine, rose, and gardenia—over a warm, balsamic, woody base. This final layer grounded the scent in resins, oakmoss, and hints of civet and musk, conjuring the ancient oak forests and wintry landscapes of Imperial Russia—the historical source of the world’s most prized sable furs.
To a woman of the 1920s, Zibeline would have been more than just a perfume. It was a statement of modern luxury, an olfactory cloak as refined as the fur she wore draped around her shoulders. While aldehydic florals were certainly in vogue, Zibeline’s fusion of floral abstraction with animalic warmth and geographic fantasy made it stand out. It promised not just scent, but an experience—a dream of aristocratic splendor, elegance, and unapologetic femininity.
Zibeline was both of its time and ahead of it. It embraced the aldehydic floral trend while simultaneously leaning into the rich, fur-like sensuality that would define many orientals and floral chypres of the 1930s. With its evocative name, artistic concept, and sensuous construction, Zibeline secured Weil's place not only in the fur salons of Paris, but also in the golden age of French perfumery.
In the 1936 issue of Rester Jeune, readers were reminded—given the season—of the intriguing line of perfumes by Weil, crafted specifically to complement fur garments. The article highlights Bambou and Cassandra, two very recent additions at the time, as well as Zibeline, a slightly older creation that continued to enjoy widespread appreciation. These perfumes were celebrated for their ability to harmonize with the luxurious texture and warmth of fur, a hallmark of Weil's reputation in olfactory elegance. The editorial notes that more in-depth discussion of these perfumes would follow in a future issue, suggesting their importance and popularity.
The piece transitions naturally from fragrance to application, especially concerning fur, and offers a word of caution to readers. It emphasizes that one should never apply perfume directly onto fur—or onto hair, for that matter—as doing so risks altering the fragrance’s character. Even when applied directly to the skin, a perfume can quickly lose its original harmony. The article strongly advocates for the use of an atomizer, noting that perfume maintains its full sweetness and integrity only when sprayed in the finest possible mist. This advice reflects both the technical understanding of perfume behavior and the period’s growing emphasis on proper application methods to preserve the quality and sophistication of fine fragrances.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Zibeline is classified as a sweet, heady aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It was created to recall the steppes and massive oak forests of Imperial Russia, where the finest sable furs were imported. It starts with a fresh and spicy aldehydic top, followed by a classic elegant floral heart, layered over a warm, balsamic, woody base. Zibeline is a floral, aldehydic, chypre fragrance with fruity, amber, and spicy facets. It is composed of neroli, hawthorn, linden blossom, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, incense, opoponax, oakmoss, vetiver, tonka beans, and civet. The captivating, suave, and delicate aroma of this perfume always defines the woman who wears it with a distinctly Parisian charm. It highlights a woman’s natural elegance and is especially suited to blondes and redheads. Ideal for all occasions where an elegant touch is required.
- Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Amalfi lemon, Sicilian neroli, West Indian lime blossom, Seville orange, Russian coriander, Mediterranean estragon
- Middle notes: Indian carnation, Tunisian orange blossom, Florentine orris, Chinese gardenia, Grasse jasmine, Nossi-Be ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, hydroxycitronellal, English hawthorn, and oriental rose
- Base notes: Siberian fir, Somali opoponax, Omani frankincense, Austrian oakmoss, Provencal honey, English oak, Mysore sandalwood, Mexican vanilla, vanillin, Siam benzoin, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, Cyprus labdanum, ambergris, Tibetan musk, Abyssinian civet and Java vetiver
Scent Profile:
Zibeline by Parfums Weil is a lavish tapestry of scent—opulent, fur-lined, and deliberately evocative of another world, another time. From its first radiant impression to its smoldering, resinous conclusion, each note is like a brushstroke in an oil painting, carefully chosen to transport the wearer to the wild, aristocratic elegance of Imperial Russia, where luxury meant sable furs, candlelit ballrooms, and landscapes threaded with snow-covered pines and ancient oaks.
The fragrance opens with a dramatic flourish—aldehydes, those sparkling molecules that diffuse like a burst of chilled champagne, cold metal on warm skin, or moonlight on snow. These synthetic compounds lift and brighten the entire composition, not with any natural smell, but with a sheer, glistening texture—modern, almost otherworldly. The aldehydes play off a dazzling citrus ensemble, starting with Calabrian bergamot, prized for its green, slightly floral bitterness that lacks the sourness of lemon. From Amalfi, the sun-drenched lemon adds crystalline clarity, softened by Sicilian neroli, which folds in bitter-green orange flower with honeyed softness. The addition of West Indian lime blossom lends a tangy, creamy nuance, a softer version of lime’s acidic edge. The inclusion of Seville orange brings a bittersweet, almost marmalade-like intensity—a bold contrast to the brighter notes.
Then, in a turn toward spice and herb, Russian coriander enters with a peppery, citrusy bite—its origin suggesting cold fields and sharp, dry air, rather than the warmer tones of Indian coriander. Mediterranean estragon (tarragon) contributes a green, almost anise-like twist, subtle and aromatic, giving a faint whisper of verdant licorice—an elegant bridge from citrus to floral.
As the aldehydic sparkle fades, the floral heart of Zibeline unfolds like the opening of a velvet curtain. At its center is Grasse jasmine, grown in the region famed for producing the most voluptuous and narcotic variety of the flower. It mingles with Tunisian orange blossom, lending a luminous, almost creamy white floral glow. The spicy clove-like aroma of Indian carnation adds fire and structure, its dry heat balancing the sweetness of oriental rose—a deeper, more voluptuous take on the bloom, darker and more plush than the dew-kissed European varieties.
Florentine orris, one of perfumery’s most precious materials, emerges with its buttery, powdery, faintly violet aroma, grounding the composition in a noble, vintage softness. This is orris aged and mellowed from rhizomes dried for years in Italy—a note more felt than smelled, like the rich nap of velvet. Chinese gardenia, creamy and narcotic, lends a heavy white floral presence, while Nossi-Bé ylang-ylang, from the island off the coast of Madagascar, exudes its banana-like richness and buttery, heady warmth.
Threaded throughout this heart is lily-of-the-valley, a bright, airy note largely rendered through synthetics like hydroxycitronellal, a soft, dewy-green aldehyde that mimics muguet's fresh innocence. Hydroxycitronellal also helps modulate stronger floral notes, acting as a lens that softens and diffuses. The bouquet is rounded by English hawthorn, dry and almost almond-like, offering a subtle breath of spring orchard air.
As the floral heart mellows, Zibeline descends into its most luxurious realm—a deeply animalic, ambery base meant to conjure the warm, enveloping texture of fur. It opens with Siberian fir, cool and resinous, evoking the breath of snow-covered forests. This is paired with Somali opoponax, sweet and balsamic, and the silvery incense of Omani frankincense, prized for its clarity and sacred smoke. Austrian oakmoss brings a damp, earthy depth, a green shadow that complements the dry nobility of English oak.
Provencal honey adds a rustic sweetness—sun-warmed and golden—while Mysore sandalwood, once the gold standard of sandal, contributes creamy wood with soft spice and depth. Sweetness continues in Mexican vanilla, warm and earthy, deepened by vanillin, the synthetic that reinforces vanilla’s addictive warmth and helps anchor the entire structure. Siam benzoin lends ambered resin, while Venezuelan tonka bean and its key component coumarin offer nutty, hay-like warmth with a slightly caramelized finish.
Cyprus labdanum adds weight and smokiness, sticky and rich like blackened resin, while the animalic signatures emerge in full: ambergris, salty and skin-like; Tibetan musk, once derived from deer, now likely recreated through muscone and related synthetics for a sensual warmth; Abyssinian civet, creamy and barnyard-animalic, adding a raw depth beneath the florals; and Java vetiver, earthy and green with a smoky, rooty coolness.
Zibeline is not a fragrance—it is an olfactory journey into lost elegance. From the frozen citrus sunburst of its top to the honeyed fur-warmth of its drydown, every ingredient is chosen to enhance the fantasy of sable cloaks, snow-dusted landscapes, and aristocratic sensuality. In its structure, it reflects its time: aldehydic florals were rising in popularity, but Zibeline offered more—it fused modernity with memory, nature with artifice, and above all, the ephemeral presence of perfume with the eternal allure of luxury.
Bottles:
Zibeline Parfum was available in five sizes:
- 1 3/4 oz
- 3/4 oz
- 1/2 oz
- 1/4 oz
- 1 dram (1/8 oz)
Deluxe Crystal Bottles:
The deluxe parfum bottle is made up of cut crystal with ribbed sides. The stopper has the name Weil en intaglio. It can be found with or without thick gold enameling on the sides. This bottle will either be acid stamped with Made in France or Made in Czechoslovakia. The earliest examples have the diamond shape on the label.
Cylindrical Baccarat Bottles:
Cylindrical, clear pressed glass bottle, fitted with clear glass, disk shaped stopper. Markings: Base molded "Made in France." Bottle made by Baccarat. Weil started using Baccarat model #524 as early as 1933. The bottle can be found with the W for Weil intaglio molded into the stopper. This bottle was also used by other perfumeries: Gabilla, Molyneux, and Jean Desprez.
Other Bottles:
Baccarat Limited Edition Bottle:
Baccarat number 814 from 1954. The bottle holds 1 oz of Parfum.
W Stopper Bottles:
The following bottles are NOT cylindrical, but have an ovoid shape, and are fitted with clear glass disk shaped stoppers, intaglio molded with the W for Weil. They were not made by Baccarat. These bottles hold parfum. The smaller bottles also used screw caps.
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EAU DE TOILETTES
COLOGNE
The Zibeline cologne was available in these sizes:
- 4 oz
Stage, 1936:
"There's something pretty exhilarating about the new fizzing cologne of Parfums Weil called Carbo-nique. It comes in three odors: Cassandra, Bamboo, and Zibeline, and the seltzer-bottle container is returnable for credit on a new one."
SECRET DE VENUS
Glass Packer, 1949:
"HOUR-GLASS BOTTLE, bright green cap, and beige linen-like box, are used by Parfums Weil Paris, Inc. to package the new, half-ounce size of Secret of Venus, Zibeline fragrance, compounded of aromatic oils."
c1939
In 1969/1970, Zibeline was available in the following forms:
- Parfum Presentations: Bottles (0.25 oz to 16 oz); Refillable purse sprays (0.25 and 0.5 oz); Gold and white presentation box.
- Related Products: Eau de Toilette (2 oz to 16 oz); Atomizer (2 oz and 3.5 oz); Refillable spray (2 oz); Eau de Cologne (2 oz to 16 oz)
- Ancillary Products: "Secret de Venus" Oil (1/8 oz to 32 oz); Satin Antilope, perfumed cream (2 to 4 oz); Perfumed Soap, with flower waxes; Foaming Bath; Talc.
In 1972/1973, Zibeline was available in the following forms:
- Presentations: Parfum de Toilette (2 to 16 oz); PDT Atomizer (2 and 3 1/2 oz); PDT Refillable Spray (2 oz); Eau de Cologne (2 to 16 oz)
- Ancillary Products: Satin Antilope (perfumed cream) 2 to 4 oz; "Secret de Venus" Oil (8 to 32 oz); Perfumed Soap with flower waxes; Foaming Bath; Talc; Deodorant spray.
In 1977/1978 through 1984/1985, Zibeline was available in the following formats:
- Parfum Presentations: Gold and fawn case, oval bottle; Diffusette.
- Related Products: Parfum de Toilette splash bottles; Parfum de Toilette atomizer; Eau de Cologne
- Ancillary Products: Secret de Venus (alcohol-free perfume)
In 1990/1991, Zibeline was available in:
- Parfum: splash (7.5ml, 15ml); Spray (10ml)
- Related Products: Parfum de Toilette splash (59ml, 118ml); Parfum de Toilette Spray (30ml, 59ml, 118ml)
Fate of the Fragrance:
In Harper’s Bazaar, 1936, Zibeline by Parfums Weil was described with irresistible flair: “As rich and husky as a torch song. 100-proof for blondes who disdain to be pastel.” This statement captures the fragrance’s sultry confidence and unapologetic boldness. In a time when perfume was often a statement of identity as much as fashion, Zibeline stood out as a declaration of intensity—suitable not for the demure or faint-hearted, but for the woman who claimed her presence with smoky glamour and golden hair waved to perfection. The “100-proof” metaphor conjures up a heady intoxication, emphasizing the fragrance’s richness and emotional depth, like a blues singer’s voice rising in a velvet-draped nightclub.
By 1950, Zibeline was still considered a luxurious staple. L’Amour de l’art described it as “precious and delicate like the fur of the same name,” asserting that it was universally flattering. “Its scent of undergrowth, oaks and wild firs blooms marvelously in the warm atmosphere of a gala.” This description re-centers the fragrance in its namesake imagery: the dusky velvet of sable fur, the hush of pine forests, the damp, loamy hush of moss beneath trees. The image is both sensuous and aristocratic—something to be worn with jewels, silk, and confidence.
Harper’s Bazaar revisited Zibeline in 1956, calling it “Weil’s bittersweet romance of a perfume, but with a lighter, brighter side too.” Here, the duality of the perfume is acknowledged. While rooted in woods and resins, Zibeline wasn’t somber—it had lift, effervescence, and a luminous top. The sweetness, whether from floral notes or honey and vanilla, tempered the more brooding base. It was a romance of opposites—bittersweet yet bright, earthy yet elegant.
Also in 1956, Consumer Reports classified it as “very heavy” but “good,” describing it succinctly as “very spicy-woody.” The pricing listed—$5 for a half-ounce, $15 for one ounce, $27.50 for 1.5 ounces—underscores its status as a high-end luxury item. This matter-of-fact summary, while stripped of the romanticism of earlier press, confirms the complexity and weight of the perfume. Spices and woods dominate the memory of it, reinforcing the earlier evocations of fir forests, oak leaves, and warm skin under fur.
Together, these excerpts trace a clear evolution of Zibeline’s reputation—from a bold seductress of the 1930s, through its refined and forested mystique in the mid-century, to a warmly familiar, romantic classic in the 1950s.
Launched in 1927, Zibeline by Parfums Weil enchanted perfume lovers for decades with its sultry elegance and richly textured composition. From its earliest years, it was positioned not just as a fragrance, but as a luxurious experience—designed specifically to be worn with furs, a reflection of Weil’s origins as a high-end furrier. With its warm, spicy-woody base and luminous aldehydic floral heart, Zibeline exuded confidence, depth, and sensuality. It appealed to women who were bold and sophisticated, drawn to fragrances with character and emotional weight.
Zibeline remained a staple in the Weil line for nearly sixty years, adapting through shifting tastes and decades of evolving fashion. By the mid-1980s, however, as trends turned toward lighter, cleaner, and more minimalist scents, the fragrance was quietly discontinued. Yet its legacy lingered. Bottles of Zibeline could still be found in perfume shops and department stores well into the 1990s, often sold at drastically reduced prices as retailers cleared aging stock from their shelves. For longtime admirers, it was a chance to hold on to a beloved classic a little longer; for others, it was a curious window into a bygone era of perfumery.
Today, Zibeline survives as a collector's treasure. Vintage bottles—especially those housed in Weil’s elegant early flacons or the later molded glass editions—still appear on various online platforms, from niche fragrance forums to resale marketplaces. These remaining examples offer a rare opportunity to experience a piece of 20th-century perfumery history. Though time may have softened some of the brighter top notes, the warmth of its floral heart and the depth of its balsamic base often remain remarkably intact, a testament to the quality of its composition. For those who seek the rich, emotive fragrances of the past, Zibeline continues to cast its long, velvety shadow.
2010 Reformulation & Relaunch:
In 2010, Parfums Weil reintroduced a trio of modern fragrances that paid homage to the brand's storied past: Zibeline de Weil, Secret de Weil, and Rêve de Weil. While these new editions borrowed names and, in spirit, sought to echo the elegance and mystique of their vintage counterparts, they were formulated with contemporary sensibilities in mind. Of particular interest was Zibeline de Weil, a reinterpretation of the house's most iconic fragrance from 1927.
However, for those familiar with the original Zibeline, the 2010 version was noticeably different. Described in many online reviews as lighter, more transparent, and less animalic, this modern edition lacked the dense richness and fur-like warmth that had made the original so evocative. Where the vintage Zibeline was sultry, balsamic, and faintly feral—wrapping the wearer in the imagined scent of oak forests, resins, and fine Russian sable—the reformulated Zibeline de Weil presented a cleaner, more restrained profile. The change wasn't merely a matter of aesthetic preference; it was also shaped by necessity.
One major influence behind this shift is the evolving landscape of fragrance regulation, particularly the increasingly strict standards set by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). Established to ensure consumer safety and minimize the risk of skin sensitization and allergic reactions, IFRA regularly updates its guidelines to restrict or prohibit certain ingredients. Many classic perfume components—such as natural oakmoss, civet, nitro-musks, and even certain citrus oils—are now either heavily limited or banned. As a result, perfumers must either remove or significantly reduce these ingredients in modern formulations, often replacing them with synthetic substitutes or restructuring the composition entirely.
In the case of Zibeline, ingredients like oakmoss, real civet, and animalic musks were integral to the fragrance's signature depth and longevity. Their absence in the reformulated version inevitably alters the overall experience. While Zibeline de Weil retains some of the elegance and femininity of the original, it reflects the olfactory preferences of the 21st-century consumer—cleaner, more wearable, and less polarizing. For lovers of vintage perfume, this shift may feel like a departure; but for a new generation discovering the Weil name, the 2010 revival offers an accessible introduction to a heritage brand reimagined for today.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Zibeline de Weil is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.
- Top notes: ylang-ylang, bergamot and plum
- Middle notes: orange blossom, sweet pea and wallflower
- Base notes: benzoin and tonka bean
Scent Profile:
When first inhaling Zibeline de Weil (2010), it is immediately apparent that this fragrance was composed with modern sensibilities in mind—gentler, cleaner, and far more translucent than its original namesake. Where the 1927 Zibeline wrapped the wearer in a dense cloak of oakmoss, civet, and aldehydes—a sensual embodiment of fur and forest—this reimagined version offers a lighter, more accessible interpretation, though still nodding to its opulent heritage.
The top notes open with the unmistakable narcotic sweetness of ylang-ylang, sourced from the island of Nossi-Bé off the coast of Madagascar. Ylang from this region is highly prized for its rich, creamy floralcy with subtle hints of banana and custard. It lends the fragrance a soft, exotic warmth at first breath. Alongside it, Calabrian bergamot brings a crisp, sparkling citrus freshness—zesty and slightly green—cutting through the ylang’s headiness and giving the opening an uplifting, almost effervescent lift. Plum, a fruit note that in perfumery often appears as a thick, syrupy nuance, provides a velvety, juicy undercurrent. It adds a subtle richness and roundness, grounding the floral-citrus pairing with a gourmand, ripe-fruit note that hints at sensuality without veering into decadence.
As the fragrance unfolds into the heart, the floral character becomes more apparent but remains delicate. Orange blossom, a staple of many classic perfumes, is soft and radiant here, offering a honeyed, slightly indolic profile. However, it lacks the animalic edge it would have carried in a vintage formula, likely due to modern distillation methods and IFRA limitations. The inclusion of sweet pea, a note rarely encountered in vintage perfumery, brings a contemporary lightness—its green, airy floralcy conjures the image of spring gardens and fresh air. Wallflower, an old-fashioned floral more often found in Edwardian gardens than in modern bottles, adds a touch of powdery warmth and rustic charm. While not overpowering, it evokes a nostalgic softness—more wistful than provocative.
The base notes are where one might expect echoes of the original Zibeline, but they remain more restrained. Benzoin, a resin harvested primarily from Styrax trees in Laos and Sumatra, provides a warm, balsamic glow. Its sweetness is often likened to caramelized vanilla or toasted almonds, and here it lends a resinous depth that is rich but never heavy. Venezuelan tonka bean follows, prized for its complex composition of coumarin and vanillin-like nuances. It smells of warm hay, almonds, and sweet pipe tobacco—a cozy, amber-like finish. Together, the benzoin and tonka create a soft, enveloping base, comforting and slightly gourmand, but without the animalic growl or earthy density that characterized the original formula.
Noticeably absent in Zibeline de Weil are the signature materials that made the 1927 version so unforgettable: the oakmoss, musk, civet, and labdanum that lent it the scent of fur, undergrowth, and skin. These ingredients, especially natural civet and oakmoss, are now either restricted or tightly regulated under IFRA guidelines due to allergenic potential or ethical concerns. The vintage Zibeline relied on these components for its haunting, feral allure—what made it as "husky as a torch song" and evocative of sable-lined nights.
In contrast, the 2010 Zibeline de Weil is a reinterpretation through the lens of transparency and minimalism. The composition favors smoother transitions, fewer materials, and less overt sensuality. Synthetic aroma chemicals, likely including Hedione (to extend the orange blossom), Iso E Super (for velvety radiance), and synthetic musk molecules (to replace civet and natural musks), may be present to support the structure subtly. These ingredients are designed not to overpower but to radiate gently, contributing to the modern feel of skin-scent intimacy rather than vintage extravagance.
In sum, Zibeline de Weil is not a revival but a reimagination. It shares a name and a nod to elegance, but it speaks in a whisper where the original sang in full voice. This version may disappoint purists searching for the enveloping warmth of oakmoss and civet, but it offers a graceful, contemporary alternative—one that suggests luxury in a gentler, more luminous tone.
Fate of the Fragrance:
The 2010 version of Zibeline de Weil—a modern reinterpretation of the house’s iconic 1927 fragrance—was quietly discontinued by 2017. Though it initially garnered some attention upon release, it ultimately did not achieve the enduring popularity of its vintage predecessor. The reformulated version, with its softened florals and contemporary composition, may have lacked the singular character that once defined Zibeline as a symbol of refined sensuality. Its disappearance from retail shelves was gradual, and by 2017, even online availability had become sporadic.
As of 2025, Parfums Weil itself appears to be defunct. There is no longer an official website for the brand, and no recent product launches have been recorded. The name endures primarily through vintage perfume collectors and secondhand markets, where older bottles—particularly the original Zibeline in its various formulations—continue to circulate and spark admiration. The brand, once associated with high-quality perfumes inspired by fur and luxury, now exists as a chapter in fragrance history rather than as an active player in the modern perfume industry.