En Avion was launched in France in 1929 by the celebrated perfume house Parfums Caron and appeared in the United States by 1932, quickly becoming one of the brand’s most evocatively named fragrances. The perfume was created by the house’s visionary perfumer Ernest Daltroff during a period when aviation had captured the imagination of the entire world. The name “En Avion” comes from the French language and translates simply as “By Airplane” or “In an Airplane.” Pronounced as “ahn ah-vee-ON,” the phrase immediately conjures a sense of movement and altitude—suggesting the exhilarating sensation of rising above the earth and traveling through open skies.
The choice of name was far from arbitrary. During the late 1920s and early 1930s, aviation represented the very pinnacle of modern progress, glamour, and daring adventure. Commercial air travel was still new and considered a remarkable luxury—reserved primarily for wealthy travelers, celebrities, and pioneering aviators. Airplanes symbolized speed, freedom, and the promise of a rapidly changing world. Caron’s perfume paid tribute not only to the fashionable fascination with flight but also to several celebrated aviators of the era, including Jean Mermoz, the legendary pilot known for pioneering transatlantic airmail routes; Hélène Boucher, a record-breaking French pilot admired for her elegance and bravery; and Lena Bernstein, who surpassed the record for the longest time spent in the air by a woman. By referencing these figures, the perfume aligned itself with a spirit of daring innovation and modern femininity.
The name En Avion evokes vivid imagery: propellers spinning against a bright sky, sleek aircraft soaring above clouds, and passengers gazing down at landscapes from extraordinary heights. Emotionally, it suggests freedom, exhilaration, and a sense of forward momentum. It also hints at sophistication and cosmopolitan travel—an era when crossing continents by air felt almost miraculous. In perfume form, the phrase suggests something airy yet vibrant, a scent that feels uplifting and expansive, like wind rushing past the wings of an aircraft.
The fragrance debuted at the height of the Art Deco period, a cultural era defined by sleek modern design, technological optimism, and luxurious glamour. The late 1920s were marked by bold artistic experimentation in architecture, fashion, and decorative arts. Even as the world soon entered the economic difficulties of the Great Depression, style and luxury continued to flourish in Parisian couture and perfumery. Women’s fashion embraced streamlined silhouettes, fluid fabrics, and a refined elegance that replaced the exuberant flapper styles of the early 1920s. Designers such as Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli helped define a new vision of modern femininity—one that combined independence, sophistication, and a subtle hint of daring.
For women of the time, a perfume named En Avion would have felt thrillingly modern. It suggested the independence and adventurous spirit that aviation represented. Even women who never set foot on an airplane could imagine themselves part of that glamorous world of pilots, travelers, and high society voyagers. Wearing En Avion allowed them to participate symbolically in this new era of speed and possibility. The perfume’s name alone suggested movement, vitality, and a sense of boundless horizons.
In scent, En Avion interpreted this idea through a composition described as a rich spicy floral-oriental fragrance. The perfume was often characterized as a spicy amber accord layered over a floral and musky base, creating a balance between brightness and warmth. The opening likely conveyed a sense of brisk freshness, while the heart blossomed into elegant florals enriched with aromatic spice. Beneath this airy elegance lay a warm foundation of amber and musk that gave the fragrance depth and persistence. The overall effect mirrored the sensation of flight itself: a bright ascent followed by a smooth, steady glide through warm currents of air.
Within the broader context of perfumery in the late 1920s, En Avion both reflected and refined prevailing trends. The era saw the rise of sophisticated floral-oriental perfumes that combined sparkling top notes with rich, sensual bases. The influence of groundbreaking fragrances such as Chanel No. 5 had already reshaped the industry by introducing modern aldehydic brightness layered over complex floral compositions. En Avion followed this modern spirit but gave it a distinctive thematic identity inspired by aviation and adventure.
Ultimately, En Avion stands as a fragrance deeply rooted in its historical moment—a perfume that captured the romance and excitement of early aviation while expressing the elegance and innovation of Art Deco perfumery. Like the sensation of ascending above the clouds, it promised its wearer a feeling of lightness, freedom, and exhilarating modernity
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? En Avion is classified as a rich spicy floral-oriental fragrance for women. It was described as a spicy amber, on a floral and musky base, recommended to be worn for daytime.
- Top notes: orange, neroli, rose, anise and carnation
- Middle notes: clove, ginger, nutmeg, basil, lilac, orange blossom and jasmine
- Base notes: ambergris, leather, opopanax, sandalwood and musk
Scent Profile:
En Avion, created by Ernest Daltroff for Parfums Caron in 1929, unfolds like a warm current of air rising steadily through sunlit skies. Classified as a spicy floral-oriental, the fragrance is built around a vibrant interplay of luminous citrus, aromatic spices, soft florals, and a deep ambered base. Though rich and layered, it was famously recommended for daytime wear, suggesting a perfume that feels radiant and energetic rather than heavy—much like the exhilaration of early aviation itself.
The fragrance begins with a vivid burst of brightness. Orange oil, most often pressed from the peel of sweet oranges grown in the Mediterranean—particularly Spain or Italy—introduces a golden, juicy sweetness that feels warm and inviting. The scent is fresh yet mellow, like the first spray of citrus oils released when an orange peel is twisted between the fingers. Closely accompanying it is neroli, the essential oil distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree. Neroli from Tunisia and Morocco is especially prized for its luminous aroma that blends honeyed sweetness with green floral freshness. Together, orange and neroli create a radiant opening that feels airy and uplifting.
Into this sparkling citrus atmosphere drifts a delicate hint of rose, likely composed of both natural rose oil and supporting aroma molecules. Traditional rose oil—often sourced from the famed Rose Valley of Kazanlak in Bulgaria—has a rich honeyed sweetness with faint citrus and spice nuances. In perfumes of this era it was often enhanced by synthetic rose molecules such as geraniol or phenyl ethyl alcohol, which smell vividly of fresh rose petals and help extend the natural oil’s projection. Their presence makes the rose feel more luminous and expansive, like a bouquet opening in sunlight.
A subtle aromatic twist follows with anise, whose scent is sweet and slightly licorice-like, lending a cool herbal freshness to the composition. This unusual note adds a breezy, slightly spicy brightness that complements the citrus opening beautifully. Alongside it appears carnation, a flower whose scent naturally resembles clove. Carnation absolute is rare and difficult to obtain, so perfumers often recreate it using molecules such as eugenol, the primary aromatic component of clove oil. This gives the carnation accord its warm, spicy character while maintaining a soft floral elegance.
As the fragrance settles into its heart, the spices begin to bloom. Clove, ginger, and nutmeg create a glowing warmth that feels both exotic and invigorating. Clove oil, often sourced from Madagascar or Indonesia, has a powerful sweet-spicy aroma dominated by eugenol, lending depth and richness to the composition. Ginger introduces a brighter spice—fresh, slightly citrusy, and subtly peppery—while nutmeg adds a nutty warmth that feels smooth and comforting. These spices give the perfume its distinctive spicy oriental character, creating the sensation of warmth rising gently beneath the florals.
Balancing the spice is a green aromatic nuance from basil, an herb widely cultivated around the Mediterranean. Basil’s scent is vibrant and slightly peppery with faint hints of anise, which ties elegantly back to the opening note. The floral bouquet in the heart continues with lilac, orange blossom, and jasmine. Lilac flowers cannot be distilled into natural perfume oil, so their scent must be recreated through carefully balanced synthetic molecules such as hydroxycitronellal. These compounds reproduce lilac’s airy, springlike sweetness and soft green facets. Orange blossom, closely related to neroli but richer and more honeyed, adds a radiant floral warmth. Jasmine, often sourced from Grasse in France or Egypt, contributes a creamy, slightly indolic sensuality that deepens the floral heart and gives the fragrance a living, almost breathing quality.
Gradually the perfume settles into its warm and luxurious base. Ambergris, historically one of the most prized materials in perfumery, contributes a soft marine sweetness and extraordinary diffusion. Natural ambergris forms in the digestive system of sperm whales and ages for years while floating in the ocean, developing a warm, musky, slightly salty aroma that enhances the longevity of other notes. By the early twentieth century it was often complemented or replaced by synthetic molecules that reproduce its glowing warmth while preserving the rare natural material.
The base also carries a subtle leather accord, typically constructed from smoky materials such as birch tar derivatives combined with softer notes to suggest the supple aroma of fine leather goods. This lends the perfume an elegant sophistication reminiscent of well-worn gloves or a polished travel case—an appropriate echo of the glamorous world of early aviation.
Resinous warmth emerges through opopanax, a fragrant gum resin often called “sweet myrrh,” harvested from shrubs in the Middle East and North Africa. Its scent is balsamic and honeyed with hints of warm spice and incense. This resin blends beautifully with sandalwood, historically sourced from the legendary forests of Mysore in India, whose creamy, milky woodiness has long been one of perfumery’s most treasured base notes.
Finally, the composition softens into a gentle aura of musk. While natural musk once came from the musk deer, by the early twentieth century perfumers increasingly relied on synthetic musk molecules to replicate its warm, skin-like aroma. These modern musks provide softness, warmth, and exceptional persistence, allowing the fragrance to linger gracefully throughout the day.
Together these elements create a perfume that feels both radiant and grounded—bright citrus and airy florals rising above a warm bed of spices, resins, and soft woods. The effect is vivid yet elegant, like sunlight glinting off polished aircraft wings while warm currents of air lift them steadily upward. In this way En Avion captures the exhilarating spirit of flight itself: fresh, adventurous, and quietly luxurious.
Bottles:
The bottle itself was produced in colorless pressed crystal by French glassmakers, including the renowned house Baccarat, where it appeared as model number 946 in the Baccarat catalogue. Another production was executed at the glassworks of Choisy-le-Roi. The form is strikingly modernist: cubic in cross-section yet shaped like a footed half-moon bowl, creating a harmonious balance between architectural geometry and graceful curves. The transparent crystal allows light to pass cleanly through the bottle, giving the fragrance within a luminous presence, while the sturdy footed base lends the piece a sense of permanence and sculptural weight.
One of the most distinctive features of the deluxe En Avion bottle is its remarkable square stopper, which incorporates an intricate motif inspired by the age of aviation. The stopper rests within a white metal collar and is enclosed by a sleek chrome frame that can be lifted away to reveal the stopper itself, adding a subtle mechanical elegance to the design. At the center of the stopper’s top is a recessed section containing a delicate open-worked brass disk that serves as the perfume’s label. This metal element is divided into two symbolic halves: one shaped like a compass, bearing the name Caron, and the other resembling a cogwheel, inscribed with En Avion alongside the house name. The lettering is rendered as precise cut-out forms, allowing light to pass through and shimmer against the crystal beneath. This interplay of metal and glass emphasizes the craftsmanship of the piece while evoking the technological optimism of the late 1920s, when aviation captured the imagination as the ultimate symbol of modern progress. Above the brass disk sits a slightly domed glass panel, forming the visible surface of the stopper and gently magnifying the intricate metalwork below, giving the entire assembly the appearance of a finely engineered jewel.
The packaging echoed this theme of movement and travel. The bottle was presented inside a square cardboard box designed to resemble a postal parcel, reinforcing the idea of airborne transport and global connection. Printed on two sides were the words “En Avion,” “Caron,” and the address “Paris, France,” as though the perfume itself were a parcel dispatched across continents by air. This imaginative presentation transformed the fragrance into a symbol of modern adventure, perfectly aligning the visual design with the exhilarating spirit suggested by its name.
When En Avion by Parfums Caron was introduced in the early 1930s, it was positioned as a luxury fragrance, yet one that could be purchased in several formats to accommodate different budgets. In 1933, the perfume retailed for approximately $14 per ounce, while the larger 2.35-ounce bottle sold for $30, placing it firmly within the realm of high-end perfumery during the Depression era. Despite the economic challenges of the time, fine fragrance remained an important symbol of elegance and personal refinement, and Caron offered both modest and more elaborate presentations of En Avion so that the fragrance could appeal to a wider audience while still preserving the house’s reputation for luxury.
The smallest presentation contained 1.126 ounces of perfume and measured only about two inches in height, making it a compact and practical bottle. Unlike the more elaborate deluxe editions, this version omitted the distinctive metal stopper cover. Instead, it was fitted with a silvertone metal screw cap, a simpler and more economical closure. The front of the bottle carried a die-cut paper label designed to imitate the striking compass motif found on the deluxe bottle’s overcap. Although executed in paper rather than metal, the label cleverly echoed the aviation theme that defined the fragrance’s identity. This more modest bottle was packaged in a simple cardboard box, reflecting its role as the accessible version of the perfume.
For those seeking a more luxurious presentation, Caron offered deluxe bottles in larger sizes. The 2.12-ounce bottle, standing about 2.75 inches tall, featured the distinctive design elements associated with the fragrance’s more elaborate packaging. Similarly, the 2.35-ounce bottle, slightly taller at three inches, was also produced as a deluxe version. These larger presentations incorporated the ornate stopper assembly and aviation-inspired decorative details that made the En Avion bottle so visually distinctive.
Together, these different formats demonstrate how Caron balanced artistry and accessibility. The smaller bottle allowed customers to experience the fragrance at a lower price point, while the deluxe versions preserved the full sculptural beauty of the design, complete with its symbolic references to navigation and flight. In each case, the presentation reinforced the spirit of modern adventure suggested by the perfume’s name, transforming even a modest bottle into a small token of the glamorous world of early aviation.
Face Powder Box:
The face powder created to accompany En Avion was presented in a striking square case fashioned from polished chrome metal, an object that reflected the streamlined modernity and technological fascination of the early 1930s. The smooth metallic surface of the lid and sides gleams like a miniature piece of aviation machinery, its most distinctive feature being the En Avion Caron compass emblem deeply impressed into the front panel. This embossed medallion echoes the navigational instruments of aircraft, reinforcing the perfume’s aeronautical theme while adding a refined decorative element that catches the light across the reflective metal surface.
Rather than standing alone, the compact was designed to rest within an elegant black Bakelite and chrome stand, creating the impression of a miniature display pedestal. The contrast between the glossy black base and the bright chrome case enhances the sense of precision and luxury typical of Art Deco design. Cleverly, the form of the compact itself was conceived to resemble a small wooden shipping crate, subtly evoking the transport of precious cargo across continents by air. According to Drug and Cosmetic Industry in 1933, the powder accompanied the newly introduced “En Avion” perfume, described as possessing a delicate bouquet odor, and was sold in this square metal case with the practical convenience of replaceable powder refills, combining modern elegance with functional design for the fashionable woman of the era.
Fate of the Fragrance:
During the 1930s and 1950s, En Avion by Parfums Caron was frequently celebrated in fashion and lifestyle publications as a fragrance that captured the spirit of modernity and adventure. Introduced at a time when aviation symbolized progress, freedom, and glamour, the perfume quickly became associated with the daring elegance of the modern woman. Contemporary writers described the fragrance not merely as a scent but as an experience—one that suggested movement, lightness, and the exhilarating promise of flight.
In Harper’s Bazaar in 1933, the fragrance was described as “the fresh fragrance of Caron’s En Avion… created for the modern—both femme fatale and femme sportif.” This evocative phrase reflects the changing role of women in the early twentieth century. The modern woman was no longer confined to one identity; she could embody both mystery and athletic vitality. En Avion was presented as a scent suited equally to the alluring sophistication of the femme fatale and the energetic confidence of the sportive woman, capturing a new kind of femininity that balanced elegance with independence.
Two years later, The Delineator (1935) praised the fragrance’s enduring vitality, noting that “Caron’s ‘En Avion’ still holds its own. It’s hard to equal its freshness, its brisk and beckoning summons. There’s something irresistible about ‘En Avion.’ It seems to promise wings.” The language evokes an almost kinetic sensation—the perfume as an invisible current of air lifting the wearer upward. In the 1930s, aviation was the ultimate symbol of progress and glamour, associated with daring pilots and transcontinental journeys. To wear En Avion was to partake in this spirit of adventure and possibility.
By 1936, the fragrance had firmly established itself as one of Caron’s distinctive creations. Vogue described it poetically as “above the woods and the clouds… soft and golden, firm and tenacious, light and spicy.” This imagery suggests a fragrance both luminous and enduring—something airy yet grounded, delicate yet persistent. The comparison to landscapes seen from above captures the perfume’s airy elegance while hinting at the warmth and spice beneath its freshness.
In the same year, Arts and Decoration (1936) placed En Avion within the broader creative output of the house, noting that the newest Caron fragrance was Fleurs de Rocaille, another celebrated composition by the house behind the famous Nuit de Noël. The article described En Avion as “a light and spicy modern perfume,” highlighting its contemporary character among Caron’s expanding repertoire. Alongside it was Pour Un Homme de Caron, emphasizing the brand’s ability to create distinctive scents for both women and men.
Even decades later, the perfume retained its appeal. Harper’s Bazaar in 1956 still described En Avion with affectionate admiration, calling it “Caron’s warm-hearted and breezy scent. Feminine but not too sweetly so.” This later commentary suggests that the fragrance’s balanced character—fresh yet warm, elegant without excessive sweetness—allowed it to remain relevant across generations.
Taken together, these contemporary impressions reveal how En Avion was perceived in its own time: a fragrance that embodied modern freedom and graceful movement. Its airy freshness, subtle spice, and enduring warmth mirrored the excitement of an age fascinated by speed, technology, and travel. Much like the sensation of rising above the clouds, En Avion promised its wearer a feeling of lightness, elegance, and limitless possibility.
1982 Version:
More than four decades later, Caron chose to revive En Avion in 1982, reintroducing it alongside several other long-discontinued classics from the house’s historical repertoire. This revival reflected Caron’s enduring philosophy of honoring its heritage while allowing its perfumes to evolve with the times. By the late twentieth century, many of the natural materials used in early perfume formulas—especially animal-derived ingredients such as natural musk and ambergris—had become restricted, ethically controversial, or prohibitively rare.
In addition, regulatory bodies and industry guidelines increasingly limited the use of certain materials known to cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. As a result, the revived version of En Avion was reformulated using modern aroma chemicals and updated raw materials. Rather than attempting a literal reconstruction of the 1929 formula, Caron’s perfumers sought to preserve the fragrance’s overall structure and emotional character while ensuring that it met contemporary standards of safety, stability, and wearability.
The relaunched En Avion enjoyed an unexpectedly long second life. It was offered through Caron’s distinctive urn presentation, a hallmark of the brand’s boutiques in which fragrances were dispensed directly from elegant glass urns into the customer’s chosen bottle. This ritual-like method of distribution emphasized the house’s heritage and artisanal identity, transforming the purchase of perfume into a ceremonial experience. In the United States, certain department stores were granted exclusive rights to specific Caron fragrances. The urn presentation reinforced En Avion’s status as a house classic, not a fleeting novelty but a perfume meant to be measured, poured, and appreciated with the reverence typically reserved for fine wines or rare spirits.
Reformulated and relaunched in 1995.