The Inspiration:
According to the press materials, the inspiration behind Black Pearls is inseparable from one of the most storied jewels in history: La Peregrina, the legendary 16th-century pearl once owned by Mary, Queen of Scots and later by Philip I of Spain. Its very name—the wanderer—reflects centuries of royal passage, political intrigue, and survival. For Elizabeth Taylor, a woman deeply drawn to objects imbued with history and emotion, the pearl was not merely an ornament but a living artifact, charged with memory, romance, and power. It was this fusion of rarity, darkness, and sensual legacy that became the conceptual soul of Black Pearls the fragrance.
The pearl entered Taylor’s life in 1969, when Richard Burton purchased it for $37,000 at Sotheby’s as a Valentine’s Day gift—an extravagant but deeply symbolic gesture that matched the intensity of their relationship. Initially strung on a long, delicate chain with spaced natural pearls, La Peregrina quickly became something Taylor treated almost as a talisman. In 1972, she commissioned Cartier, working with Al Durante, to create a one-of-a-kind necklace mounting the pearl amid diamonds and rubies, transforming it into a dramatic, sculptural jewel worthy of its history and her persona.
Taylor recounted one of the most famous episodes involving La Peregrina in her book My Love Affair with Jewelry, published by Simon & Schuster. Newly reunited with the pearl at Caesar’s Palace, she described pacing the room in quiet rapture, touching it repeatedly as if grounding herself in its presence—while Burton, in one of his dark, inward moods, remained emotionally distant. The joy she felt was almost unbearable in its intensity, until it turned abruptly to terror: La Peregrina had vanished. What followed was a silent, agonizing search—on hands and knees, through carpet and memory—while she tried to appear calm in front of Burton. The discovery was almost surreal: one of their Pekingese puppies calmly chewing on what appeared to be a bone. Inside the puppy’s mouth was La Peregrina itself, miraculously undamaged. Taylor’s relief was overwhelming, though she waited a full week before confessing the ordeal to Burton, knowing how deeply he valued the pearl’s historical significance.
When Elizabeth Taylor died, La Peregrina—still mounted in its Cartier diamond-and-ruby necklace—became one of the centerpiece lots in the 2011 Christie’s auction of her jewelry collection, held to benefit the Elizabeth Taylor AIDS Foundation, which she founded to provide direct services worldwide for people living with AIDS. Christie’s estimated the jewel’s value at $2–3 million, making it the second most highly valued piece in the sale. Yet in a final, fitting act of legend, La Peregrina far exceeded expectations, selling for $11,842,500 and setting two world auction records: one for a historic pearl and another for a pearl jewel. Today, the pearl resides in private ownership, its journey continuing—still rare, still coveted, and forever entwined with Elizabeth Taylor’s life, passions, and enduring legacy.
The Launch:
The launch of Black Pearls was originally planned as a major moment in Elizabeth Taylor’s fragrance career, slated for September 1995 and positioned as a celebratory follow-up to the enormous success of White Diamonds. By mid-spring, press kits had already been distributed and advertisements prepared, signaling confidence and momentum. In a prepared statement, Elizabeth Taylor hinted at the scale of the project, describing it as an exciting fall release timed to mark the five-year anniversary of White Diamonds. Everything suggested a carefully orchestrated rollout—until the plan abruptly unraveled.
Behind the scenes, serious fractures had emerged between Taylor, Elizabeth Arden, and the broader retail ecosystem. Taylor was deeply dissatisfied with what she perceived as mismanagement of the fragrance, a sentiment reportedly shared within Arden itself. The situation escalated to the point that the president of Elizabeth Arden announced her resignation amid the controversy. At the core of the crisis was a distribution impasse during the fall of 1995, which ultimately forced a six-month delay. Arden, then owned by Unilever, struggled to negotiate acceptable terms with major department store groups, including Federated Department Stores, parent to Marshall Field’s, Dayton’s, and Hudson’s, all of whom wanted priority access to the new fragrance.
The dispute centered on promotional support for in-store beauty personnel. Elizabeth Arden reduced its contribution toward retailer-paid sales staff salaries to 3% of retail sales, below the industry-standard 5%, and refused to fund commission-based incentives. This decision prompted upscale retailers such as Macy’s and Marshall Field’s to decline carrying Black Pearls, effectively blocking the fragrance from the prestige department store channel. In response, Arden opted to broaden distribution beyond traditional luxury retailers—including May Department Stores and Dillard’s—and extend it to mass-market outlets such as Sears and JC Penney. This strategy deeply upset Taylor, who believed her fragrance belonged in upmarket environments like Bloomingdale’s and Jordan Marsh, not volume-driven chains. The disagreement highlighted a fundamental clash: Taylor’s desire for prestige positioning versus Arden’s pursuit of scale.
As a result, the planned fall 1995 introduction was placed on hiatus, even as miniature bottles quietly appeared in select JC Penney stores. Compounding the problem, an ambitious $12 million advertising campaign had already been set in motion, with media placements purchased well in advance. A handful of magazine advertisements ran despite the fragrance’s limited availability, resulting in millions of dollars lost on print ads and scent strips promoting a product consumers could not yet buy. By late August 1995, Taylor and Elizabeth Arden mutually agreed to cancel the launch entirely and reschedule it for March 1996.
When Black Pearls finally reemerged, its promotion took an unusually theatrical turn. During February 1996 sweeps week, CBS devised a high-profile cross-network event featuring Taylor guest-starring as herself on four Monday-night sitcoms—The Nanny, Can’t Hurry Love, Murphy Brown, and High Society—all airing on February 26. The interconnected storyline revolved around Taylor filming a commercial for Black Pearls while her priceless black pearl necklace goes missing and reappears throughout the night, echoing the real-life mythology surrounding La Peregrina. This playful, serialized narrative blended celebrity, humor, and legend, turning the fragrance into a pop-culture event rather than a conventional product launch.
Taylor followed the televised promotion with plans for a whirlwind seven-city tour beginning in New York City on April 17, 1996. Elizabeth Arden projected that Black Pearls would generate between $20 million and $25 million in wholesale volume within its first year. By May 1996, the fragrance was broadly available in approximately 1,800 retail outlets across the United States. Though its debut was fraught with conflict and costly delays, Black Pearls ultimately emerged as one of the most dramatic—and revealing—launches of the 1990s, illustrating both the power and the volatility of celebrity-driven perfumery at the height of its influence.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Black Pearls is classified as a fresh fruity floral-oriental fragrance for women. "A soft, sensuous, modern oriental fragrance. The clarity of fresh bergamot and elegance of a peach and gardenia accord combined with bergamot expresses the initial image. Water lily, white cloud rose and living lotus brings a sheer sensuality to the fragrance. A lasting impression of velvety richness is created through warm, exotic amber, sandalwood and musk."
- Top notes: peach, gardenia accord and bergamot
- Middle notes: water lily, white cloud rose and "living" lotus
- Base notes: ambergris, sandalwood and musk








