Filly by Capucci (1983)

Filly by Capucci, launched in 1983, takes its name from a word that is instantly evocative and emotionally charged. “Filly” is an English term referring to a young female horse—lively, graceful, and not yet fully grown. Pronounced simply “FILL-ee,” the word carries connotations of youth, freedom, freshness, and natural elegance. For Roberto Capucci, a couturier celebrated for sculptural forms and fluid movement in fashion, the name was a poetic metaphor: femininity in motion, light on its feet, spirited yet refined. The imagery suggested by Filly—open fields, sunlight, flowing hair, and effortless energy—translates seamlessly into the idea of a fragrance designed to feel youthful, buoyant, and alive.

The early 1980s were a moment of transition in perfumery and fashion. The bold, animalic chypres and power fragrances of the 1970s were giving way to brighter, more approachable compositions that still retained sophistication. Fashion embraced fluidity and optimism alongside structure—soft silhouettes, feminine dresses, pastel tones, and a renewed emphasis on youth and everyday elegance. In fragrance, this translated into florals that felt cleaner, fresher, and more luminous, often lifted with aldehydes and subtle fruitiness. Filly fits squarely into this moment: a floral chypre that nods to classic structure while softening it with sweetness, light, and charm. Women in this era—particularly younger women or those seeking an easy, graceful daytime scent—would have related to Filly as an expression of freshness and femininity without the weight or drama of heavier perfumes.

In scent, the name Filly is interpreted through a composition that feels both fresh and gently intoxicating. The opening is bright and aldehydic, sparkling with a clean, airy lift that suggests crisp linen and morning light. This freshness is touched with a faint fruity sweetness, giving the impression of youthful exuberance rather than overt gourmand richness. As the fragrance unfolds, a tender floral heart emerges: jasmine brings a soft, luminous sensuality; neroli adds a fresh, slightly bitter orange-blossom clarity; tea rose contributes a delicate, sheer floral tone; and hyacinth introduces a green, dewy facet that enhances the impression of springtime bloom. These florals are blended to feel light and harmonious rather than dramatic, creating a bouquet that is airy, feminine, and approachable.

The base settles into a gentle, powdery finish that reinforces the fragrance’s elegance and wearability. True to its chypre classification, the structure provides subtle depth without heaviness, allowing the florals to linger softly on the skin. The result is a scent that feels youthful but not naïve, delicate yet confidently composed. In the context of the early 1980s fragrance landscape, Filly was not radically avant-garde, but it was perfectly attuned to the prevailing trends: lighter florals, softened classics, and fragrances designed for everyday pleasure rather than formal statement. Its slogan, “Habillez-vous de Filly!”—“Dress yourself in Filly!”, captures this perfectly, presenting the perfume as an extension of personal style—effortless, uplifting, and quietly elegant.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Filly is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh aldehydic top, followed by a floral heart, layered over a powdery base. It is both fresh and heady with a very sweet start, slightly fruity, then a very flowery background.

• Top notes: aldehydes, tangerine, neroli, lemon, bergamot, peach, green leaves
• Middle notes: lily of the valley, hyacinth, jasmine, carnation, orchid, tea rose, orris, ylang-ylang
• Base notes: ambergris, civet, oakmoss, musk, sandalwood, vetiver

Filly is a delicate and youthful fragrance, characterized by its floral and lightly fruity notes. The composition features a harmonious bouquet of jasmine, neroli, tea rose, and hyacinth, creating a soft, fresh, and subtly sweet aroma. Designed for a young and vibrant wearer, Filly leaves an exquisite trail that can be enjoyed at any time of day. Its charm lies in its simplicity and elegance, making it a perfect everyday fragrance. The slogan “Habillez-vous de Filly!”—“Dress yourself in Filly!”—captures its playful and uplifting spirit.

Scent Profile:

Filly opens with a bright, effervescent shimmer that immediately feels alive and youthful, as though the air itself has been freshly washed by sunlight. The aldehydes sparkle first—clean, airy, and slightly soapy, like crisp white linen snapping in a spring breeze. These classic perfumery molecules don’t smell “natural” in the botanical sense, yet they amplify everything around them, lifting the citrus and floral notes and giving the fragrance its buoyant, polished glow. 

Into this radiance pours a cascade of citrus: tangerine brings a juicy, playful sweetness with a soft, almost candied peel nuance; lemon is sharper and brighter, adding a flash of acidity; and bergamot, traditionally sourced from Calabria in southern Italy, contributes a refined bitterness with aromatic depth that distinguishes it from simpler citrus oils. Neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, adds a luminous white-floral freshness—green, slightly honeyed, and elegant—bridging citrus and floral seamlessly. A velvety touch of peach rounds the opening with a soft, fuzzy fruitiness, while green leaves introduce a dewy, chlorophyll-like freshness that suggests crushed stems and young shoots, keeping the sweetness light and natural.

As Filly moves into its heart, the fragrance blooms into a tender yet expressive floral bouquet that feels both classic and gently romantic. Lily of the valley, often recreated through aroma chemicals such as hydroxycitronellal, smells fresh, watery, and delicately sweet, evoking tiny white bells dusted with morning dew. Hyacinth adds a greener, slightly earthy floral tone—cool, crisp, and spring-like—giving the heart a natural, garden-fresh character. Jasmine brings softness and sensuality, its creamy, subtly indolic warmth suggesting sun-warmed petals; here, its richness is carefully balanced so it enhances rather than overwhelms. 

Carnation introduces a gentle spiciness, clove-like and rosy, lending texture and sophistication. Orchid contributes an abstract, silky floral impression rather than a literal scent, while tea rose offers a sheer, airy rose note—fresh and lightly sweet, never heavy. Orris, derived from the aged rhizomes of Italian iris and prized for its rarity and cost, imparts a refined powdery elegance, reminiscent of violet-tinted suede. Ylang-ylang, traditionally sourced from tropical regions such as the Comoros or the Philippines, adds a creamy, slightly banana-like floral richness, rounding out the heart with warmth and femininity.

The base of Filly settles into a soft, intimate chypre foundation that feels smooth and enveloping rather than dark or dramatic. Oakmoss, historically harvested in European forests, provides an earthy, slightly bitter-green depth that anchors the fragrance and gives it its classical chypre structure. Vetiver, with its dry, rooty, and faintly smoky character—especially elegant when sourced from regions like Haiti—adds subtle woody freshness and structure. Sandalwood contributes a creamy, milky woodiness, smoothing the transition from florals to base and lending a comforting warmth. 

Musk, likely synthetic in this era, adds a clean, skin-like softness that enhances longevity and creates a gentle aura rather than overt animalism. Traces of ambergris and civet, used with restraint, provide a warm, slightly salty and animalic undertone—more suggestive than overt—adding depth and sensuality without heaviness. Together, these elements create a powdery, lingering finish that feels elegant and wearable, allowing Filly to trail softly behind the wearer like a whisper of florals and clean skin, fresh yet undeniably feminine.

Product Line:

In 1984/1985, Filly was available in the following:

• Presentation: Eau de Parfum (20ml)
• Related Products: Eau de Toilette (60ml, 120ml, 240ml); Atomizer (60ml, 100ml)

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. It was still sold in 1995.