Eau Nouvelle by Jean Desses (1976)

Eau Nouvelle by Jean Dessès, launched in 1976 in association with Cantilène, the Parfums de Payot division, bears a name that feels deliberate, modern, and quietly radical for its time. Eau Nouvelle is French, pronounced in simple terms as "oh noo-VELL". Literally translated, it means “New Water”—a phrase that suggests renewal, clarity, and a fresh beginning rather than ornament or excess. In perfumery, the word eau already implies lightness and fluidity, but paired with nouvelle, it becomes a statement of intent: not another variation on tradition, but something consciously new, forward-looking, and reimagined.

The name evokes vivid, sensory imagery: cool water moving over warm skin, green leaves rinsed clean by rain, sunlight flashing across glass and metal. Emotionally, Eau Nouvelle suggests liberation and vitality—stepping into fresh air after confinement, or the exhilaration of change. It is not nostalgic or romanticized; instead, it feels alert, confident, and alive. For a woman, the name implies independence and modernity, a perfume chosen not to please others but to affirm one’s own sense of movement and renewal.

Its 1976 launch places the fragrance squarely in the mid-to-late 1970s, a period marked by experimentation, contrast, and transition. This era followed the social revolutions of the late 1960s and early 1970s and was defined by freedom of expression, global influences, and a loosening of rigid gender and beauty norms. Fashion embraced flowing silhouettes, jersey fabrics, halter necks, earthy tones, and bold prints, while also experimenting with sharp tailoring and minimalist chic. In perfumery, this translated into a fascination with green notes, chypres, and assertive structures—scents that felt intellectual, natural, and slightly rebellious. Women were increasingly self-directed, visible in professional and creative spaces, and less interested in overtly decorative femininity.

A perfume called Eau Nouvelle would have resonated strongly with women of this time. It suggested freshness without fragility, elegance without tradition-bound formality. It spoke to women who wanted a scent that felt current, something that aligned with a sense of change and personal agency. Rather than promising romance or seduction, the name implied energy, clarity, and presence—qualities deeply aligned with the evolving image of modern womanhood in the 1970s.

Interpreted through scent, Eau Nouvelle becomes an olfactory translation of renewal. As a green floral chypre, it combines vivid greenery with structured depth. The “green” aspect conveys sap, leaves, and cool vegetal freshness—sharp, bright, and alive—while the floral elements add color and warmth without sweetness. The chypre base introduces contrast: mossy, dry, and slightly shadowed, giving the fragrance seriousness and longevity. Described as “exotic, fiery,” this suggests that beneath its freshness lies intensity—spice, warmth, and a smoldering undercurrent that prevents the scent from feeling merely clean or fleeting. It is water with heat, freshness with conviction.

In the context of other fragrances on the market, Eau Nouvelle both aligned with and distinguished itself from prevailing trends. Green chypres were highly fashionable in the 1970s, but many leaned heavily into austerity or herbal sharpness. Eau Nouvelle, by contrast, balanced its green structure with sensuality and heat, giving it a more dynamic emotional range. It did not reject the era’s aesthetic—it refined it, offering a fragrance that felt intelligent, expressive, and slightly daring.

Ultimately, Eau Nouvelle was a perfume that embodied its name. It represented a new way of thinking about freshness—not as innocence, but as energy and self-renewal. For women in 1976, it was not simply a fragrance, but a signal of modern identity: fluid, confident, and unafraid of change.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Eau Nouvelle is classified as a green floral chypre fragrance for women. "Exotic, fiery." 

• Top notes: green mandarin, honeysuckle and lily-of-the-valley
• Middle notes: narcissus absolute, hyacinth absolute and green notes
• Base notes: oakmoss absolute, palisander rosewood and musk

Scent Profile:

Eau Nouvelle opens with a vivid, green brightness that feels immediately alive, as though cool sap and sunlight are meeting on the skin. Green mandarin leads the opening—less sweet and juicy than traditional mandarin, more zesty and vegetal. Its peel releases a fresh, slightly bitter citrus-green aroma that feels crisp and modern, prized for its clarity and lift. This brightness is softened by honeysuckle, which drifts in with a delicate, nectar-like sweetness, airy and luminous rather than heavy, evoking warm air moving through flowering vines. 

Alongside it, lily-of-the-valley rings clear and cool—bell-like, fresh, and green. As the flower yields no natural extract, this note is masterfully built from aroma molecules that recreate its unmistakable scent: dewy petals, crushed stems, and clean spring air. These synthetics add sparkle and diffusion, enhancing the freshness of the opening while extending its life on the skin.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals its more intense, exotic and fiery character through a trio of powerful green florals. Narcissus absolute brings depth and drama—dark, honeyed, and faintly animalic, with nuances of hay, warm skin, and pollen. Often sourced from southern France, narcissus is prized for its complexity and its ability to blur the line between floral and animal warmth. 

Hyacinth absolute follows, cool and unmistakably green, smelling of snapped stems, damp earth, and lush petals. True hyacinth is reconstructed through a blend of naturals and aroma chemicals, capturing its wet, verdant character. These synthetic elements sharpen its green bite and amplify its radiance, making the floral heart feel vivid and almost tactile. Supporting green notes, shaped by modern molecules, add the sensation of leaves, sap, and fresh growth, intensifying the fragrance’s verdant tension and keeping the florals brisk rather than sweet.

The base anchors Eau Nouvelle in classic chypre elegance. Oakmoss absolute forms the foundation—cool, shadowed, and slightly bitter, with the scent of forest floor, damp bark, and lichen-covered stone. Traditionally sourced from Mediterranean regions, oakmoss is prized for its depth and its ability to give structure and longevity to a composition. 

Palisander rosewood (often associated with Brazilian rosewood profiles) introduces a smooth, polished woodiness—softly rosy, faintly spicy, and refined—bridging the green florals and the earthy moss. Finally, musk envelops everything in a warm, skin-like softness. Modern musk molecules provide cleanliness, diffusion, and persistence, smoothing the sharper green edges and allowing the fragrance to cling intimately to the wearer.

Together, these elements create a green floral chypre that is anything but restrained. Eau Nouvelle feels vibrant and alive—fresh yet intense, cool yet subtly heated from within. The interplay of natural absolutes and carefully chosen aroma chemicals gives the fragrance its distinctive personality: radiant and verdant at the surface, shadowed and sensual beneath. It is a perfume that captures renewal not as innocence, but as energy—an elegant, fiery expression of modern femininity that lingers with quiet confidence.

Product Line:

Available in 1984/1985 as Eau de Toilette Fraiche. 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Later released under the Payot name, same bottle and presentation.

Kalispera by Jean Desses (1962)

Kalispera by Jean Dessès, launched in 1962, is a fragrance whose name is inseparable from heritage, elegance, and royal suggestion. The word “Kalispera” comes from the Greek language (Καλησπέρα) and means “good evening.” In everyday speech, it is a graceful greeting used from late afternoon into the night. Pronounced as "kah-lee-SPAIR-ah", the word carries a softness and warmth that feels inherently polite, cultured, and intimate. It is not a declaration, but an invitation—an opening moment as daylight fades and something more refined begins.

Emotionally and imaginatively, “Kalispera” evokes the golden hour of the Mediterranean: marble terraces cooling after the sun has set, lamplit dinners overlooking the sea, silk dresses brushing against warm stone, and the quiet confidence of a woman arriving just as the evening comes alive. It suggests civility, romance, and poise—never loud, never hurried. As a name, it feels both personal and ceremonial, a whispered salutation rather than a public announcement, perfectly suited to a couture fragrance.

Jean Dessès’ decision to adopt the name was deeply personal and symbolic. Of Greek heritage himself, Dessès was a favored designer of HM Queen Frederika of Greece, who suggested that should he ever launch a fragrance, it be called Kalispera. The choice was an act of cultural homage and affection. Queen Frederika, the Queen Mother of Greece, represented elegance, tradition, and regal femininity—qualities mirrored in Dessès’ work as a dressmaker for European royalty, including Princess Margaret, the Duchess of Kent, and the royal houses of Denmark and Sweden. Naming the perfume Kalispera transformed it into a tribute not only to the Queen, but to Greece itself—its language, its grace, and its understated luxury.

The year 1962 sits at a fascinating moment in cultural history, often described as the early modern 1960s, poised between postwar refinement and the youthful revolution soon to come. Fashion at this time favored structured elegance, sculptural silhouettes, and immaculate tailoring, particularly in couture. Women embraced polished appearances—cocktail dresses, gloves, coiffed hair—yet there was a growing sense of freedom and internationalism. In perfumery, this translated into fragrances that were refined, feminine, and expressive, but not heavy—florals softened by woods, musks, and subtle sweetness rather than overt animalics or dramatic chypres.

Within this context, Kalispera would have resonated deeply with women of the era. To wear a perfume named “Good Evening” was to embrace ritual and occasion, acknowledging that fragrance was part of dressing for the moment. It suggested a woman who understood timing and presence—someone who arrived with intention, whether at a formal dinner, a cultural event, or an intimate gathering. The name would have felt cosmopolitan and quietly exotic, especially to women outside Greece, offering a touch of Old World romance without ostentation.

Ultimately, Kalispera reflected the values of its time: elegance over excess, culture over novelty, and femininity defined by composure rather than display. For women in 1962, it was not merely a perfume but a gesture—an olfactory equivalent of a gracious greeting at dusk—imbued with royal endorsement, couture sophistication, and the timeless allure of a Mediterranean evening.

Creation: 

Interpreted in scent, the word “Kalispera”—good evening—unfolds like the moment day yields to night, when freshness softens into intimacy. In olfactory terms, it suggests a transition rather than a statement: light lingering in the air, greenery cooling, florals releasing their deeper, sweeter breath as dusk settles. Paul Vacher translated this idea with extraordinary sensitivity. The fragrance opens on a fresh green top, crisp and quietly luminous, evoking shaded gardens at twilight—leaves still warm from the sun, stems snapped cleanly, the air faintly herbal and alive. This greenness is not sharp or aggressive; it feels polite and composed, like the courteous greeting implied by the name itself.

As the scent develops, it moves into a green floral heart, where nature feels cultivated rather than wild. Here, the flowers are filtered through restraint: tea rose appears delicate and refined, its watery petals suggesting elegance rather than romance; honeysuckle lends a gentle sweetness with a green nectar nuance, floral yet airy, never cloying. The press descriptions of “dry flowers” are telling—these are florals with texture and subtlety, not lush bouquets, but petals pressed between pages, still fragrant, still evocative. The composition feels poised, mysterious, and softly radiant, mirroring the social grace of an evening encounter rather than the brightness of daylight.

The base settles into a soft, powdery, woody embrace, completing the evening metaphor. Woods emerge not as sharp structure but as warmth—smooth, dry, and comforting—supporting the florals as they fade slowly into skin. The powdery aspect adds intimacy, recalling fine face powder, silk-lined gloves, and the quiet luxury of dressing for night. This is where the “sweet-floral woody” character truly reveals itself: sweetness restrained by wood, florality tempered by softness, everything balanced and seamless. With 68 ingredients carefully harmonized, the fragrance feels continuous rather than segmented, a slow exhalation rather than a dramatic arc.

In the context of its time, Kalispera was both aligned with trends and quietly exceptional. Early 1960s perfumery favored elegance, green freshness, and refined florals—moving away from the heavier animalic styles of earlier decades—so its green-floral opening and polished structure felt contemporary. However, what set Kalispera apart was its unusual base and complexity. Vacher’s insistence on a “completely new basis,” achieved through 384 trials over more than two years, speaks to a level of rigor and originality that exceeded the norm. While many fragrances followed familiar floral formulas, Kalispera sought a new emotional register—subtle, wooded, and slightly mysterious.

That the perfume was tested by the smart women of Paris before being named—known simply as “the one of Jean Dessès”—further underscores its sophistication. It was shaped not by marketing trends but by lived elegance, refined through real wear and real judgment. Ultimately, Kalispera did not shout its modernity; it whispered it. Like its name, it was a graceful greeting at dusk—timeless, cultured, and quietly distinct within the landscape of early 1960s fragrance.

 

Fragrance Launch:

The Parisian launch of Kalispera unfolded with theatrical elegance on April 19, 1963, in the salons of the Hôtel Napoléon, just steps from the Arc de Triomphe. Far more than a conventional perfume unveiling, the evening was conceived as a living tableau—an immersive celebration of couture, music, art, and scent. Jean Dessès himself was present, embodying the spirit of the house by transforming fragrance into performance. Before the astonished eyes of his guests, he improvised a dress by draping a veil of long white cotton gauze over Jacqueline Boyer, turning fabric into form in real time, as if couture itself were being composed alongside the perfume.

At the heart of the event stood a fountain filled with Kalispera, its perfumed jets spraying the air and delighting guests, who instinctively extended their hands to be misted. This tactile, playful gesture transformed the act of discovery into a shared experience, allowing the fragrance to be encountered not abstractly but physically, intimately. The fountain became both symbol and sensation—a literal source from which the perfume flowed, evoking the idea of evening air infused with florals, greenery, and warmth.

As reported by Paris-Match in 1963, the launch unfolded as a convergence of artistic disciplines. In the Hôtel Napoléon’s salons, Jacqueline Boyer premiered a song titled Kalispera, while Constantin Nepo created a painting, and Dessès himself designed a dress—three distinct creations, all baptized with the same name. The fragrance thus became the axis around which multiple expressions revolved, reinforcing Kalispera as not merely a perfume, but a cultural moment—an idea rendered simultaneously in sound, color, fabric, and scent.

Combat magazine later captured the poetry of the evening, describing how a bouquet of thirty young women presided over the launch in a salon near the Étoile. The article recalled Queen Frederika of Greece’s original suggestion to Dessès: “If you launched a perfume, you would have to call it Kalispera.” The word’s meaning—Good evening—was underscored as more than a translation; it was an evocation. The journalist likened the perfume to the unforgettable scent of Athenian gardens at dusk, a moment familiar to anyone who had visited the land of Phidias, where fading light draws out the deepest breath of flowers and greenery.

The evening itself mirrored this twilight symbolism. Jacqueline Boyer sang Kalispera publicly for the first time, while hairstylist Guillaume composed a coiffure and Dessès, grasping a length of white cotton gauze, once again fashioned a dress on the spot. Art unfolded spontaneously, echoing the way fragrance itself evolves on the skin. The presence of celebrated French actresses—including Michèle Bardollet, Mireille Darc, Françoise Godde, Perrette Pradier, and Joëlle Latour—lent the event a distinctly cinematic glamour.

The launch was not confined to Paris alone. That very evening, at the Hilton Hotel in Athens, Jean Dessès was to present Kalispera in person to Queen Frederika, completing the circle of inspiration that had begun with her suggestion. From Paris to Athens, from couture salons to royal presentation, Kalispera’s debut embodied elegance, cultural dialogue, and artistic unity—an evening where perfume was not simply introduced, but performed, lived, and remembered.

At the launching of Kalispera, in Paris, on April 19, 1963, French actresses Michele Bardollet, Mireille Darc, Francoise Godde, Perrette Pradier and Joelle Latour gathered around a fountain perfumed with Kalispera.

The Philadelphia Inquirer, 1964:

"Queen Frederika, Queen Mother of Greece, named the newest scent from Jean Desses. A rich, woodsy fragrance, she called it "Kalispera," which means "good night" in Greek. Her Majesty was chosen for this honor because Desses, a native Greek, is her favorite fashion designer. But even though he is known for his extravagant ball gowns, Desses chose to keep Kalispera in a very simple classic bottle because he said he wanted all the richness to go into the fragrance. It is sensibly fitted with a new stopper guaranteed tight for traveling and packaged in nasturtium and white and "can be discarded with no regrets," according to its creator. Kalispera by Desses comes in a one-quarter ounce size for $12.50. At Bonwit Teller."

Only fifty select stores across the United States were chosen to introduce Jean Dessès’ two fragrances, Celui and Kalispera, underscoring their positioning as rarefied couture perfumes rather than mass-market releases. Among these privileged venues, Neiman Marcus staged one of the most elaborate debuts, presenting Kalispera as a centerpiece of its 27th annual Neiman Marcus Fashion Exposition in Dallas, Texas. The event was conceived as a full cultural spectacle. Designers, Neiman Marcus executives, and leading fashion and beauty writers were flown in from across the country to witness the unveiling, reinforcing the sense that this was not merely a product launch, but a moment of fashion history.

The atmosphere was unmistakably theatrical and distinctly Greek in spirit. A bouzouki ensemble—the pear-shaped, lute-like stringed instrument central to Greek folk music—played traditional melodies as models glided down the runway wearing the latest Dessès gowns. Champagne flowed freely, accompanied by elegant bites of roast beef and candied violets, a pairing that echoed the contrast between strength and delicacy embodied by both the couturier and his fragrances. The guest list read like a who’s who of fashion: Mr. John, the famed milliner; Richard Koret, celebrated for his luxury handbags; and André Goodman of Bergdorf Goodman in New York, among other style luminaries.

Notably absent were two figures whose presence had been anticipated. The Greek ambassador was unable to attend due to what a Neiman Marcus spokesperson, Sara Marshall, described as “the crisis in Cyprus,” reflecting the political tensions of the time. Jean Dessès himself, although present earlier to receive Fashion Award of the Year for Kalispera, was forced to depart before the afternoon presentation. He had been summoned back to Athens to attend the royal wedding of King Constantine of Greece and Princess Anne-Marie of Denmark—a deeply personal obligation, as the gown worn by Queen Frederika of Greece had been designed by Dessès himself. He returned to ensure any last-minute fittings could be handled personally, a testament to his commitment to couture at the highest level.

The exposition also featured Celui, Dessès’ first fragrance, created several years earlier and presented alongside Kalispera as part of his olfactory legacy. Celui was remarkable for its pioneering use of jonquil essential oil, employed in perfumery for the first time, combined with other rare essences. Dessès described it evocatively as “a classic fragrance with an edge of violence and tenacity… of great elegance and refinement… to be worn only by the sophisticate.” Its inclusion reinforced the idea that Dessès perfumes were conceived with the same rigor and exclusivity as his couture creations.

On the West Coast, Joseph Magnin in San Francisco hosted its own introduction of Kalispera and Celui, presented by Paul Boniface, president of Jean Dessès Parfums of Paris, and M. T. de Constades, president of Jean Dessès Parfums of New York. Once again, Dessès was absent, unable to return from Athens in time. Boniface shared a fascinating detail about the perfume bottle itself: its design was inspired by a Greek amphora housed in the Louvre, so delicate it could not be moved for reproduction. To capture it accurately, he had to climb a ladder inside the museum to photograph it in place. Guests were treated to a runway presentation of five original Dessès Paris designs, making their first appearance in the United States. The garments were available for purchase, though prices were not immediately known; as a Joseph Magnin spokesperson quipped, they would simply “telephone Paris to get them.”

Together, these meticulously staged launches framed Kalispera and Celui as extensions of couture itself—perfumes introduced not with advertisements alone, but through music, fashion, ritual, and cultural homage. They positioned Jean Dessès not just as a designer who made clothes and scents, but as a creator of atmosphere and occasion, bringing the refinement of European high fashion into select American salons with unmistakable flair. 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Kalispera is classified as a sweet-floral woody fragrance for women. Made up of 68 different ingredients, it begins with a fresh green top, followed by a green floral heart, resting on a floral, soft, powdery, woodsy base.

• Top notes: hawthorn, aldehydes, orange blossom, hyacinth, lemon, bergamot, peach blossom
• Middle notes: bouvardia, cyclamen, sweet pea, blue heliotrope, tea rose, Bulgarian rose, rose de mai, jasmine, orris, ylang ylang, mimosa, violet, green honeysuckle
• Base notes: musk, oakmoss, vetiver, sandalwood, civet

Combat, 1963:

"It took no less than 384 attempts to harmoniously dose the 68 components of Kalispera, the latest Dessès fragrance. Its personality rests on a completely new base, skillfully dressed in dry flowers, tea rose, honeysuckle."

Scent Profile:

Kalispera opens like a sun-dappled garden at the very cusp of evening, when the air is alive with green freshness and the first hints of floral perfume begin to unfurl. Hawthorn greets the senses first, crisp and subtly tart, with a leafy, almost apple-like brightness that evokes spring hedgerows in full bloom. The aldehydes sparkle alongside it, lending a luminous, airy quality that elevates the natural ingredients, creating a subtle sense of radiance and expansion in the top notes.

 Orange blossom adds a soft, white floral sweetness, lightly citrusy and radiant, characteristic of blossoms from southern Spain or Morocco, prized for their fine, delicate aroma that is brighter and more crystalline than warmer, heavier varieties. Hyacinth brings a watery, green floral facet, clean and spring-like, as if you are inhaling a bouquet freshly cut from a garden. Juxtaposed with lemon and bergamot, both providing a lively, zesty brightness—the former sharp and invigorating, the latter smoother with a characteristic floral lift—the top notes are further enriched by peach blossom, a tender, skin-like sweetness, soft and ephemeral, bridging the green freshness with the floral heart to come.

The heart of Kalispera blossoms into a green floral bouquet, rich, layered, and enveloping. Bouvardia imparts delicate, jasmine-like warmth, floral yet slightly honeyed, enhancing the richness of the bouquet. Cyclamen contributes a subtle powdery freshness, slightly watery and green, which softens the heavier florals while maintaining a crisp presence. Sweet pea brings a gentle, airy sweetness, almost edible in its delicacy, while blue heliotrope adds soft almond-like powder and a light vanillic nuance, providing quiet depth. The array of roses is spectacular: tea rose offers refined elegance and gentle sweetness, Bulgarian rose contributes richness and complexity, with its honeyed, slightly spicy facets, and rose de mai brings a floral brightness and silky clarity—each variety distinguishable to a trained nose. 

Jasmine, likely Egyptian or Grasse, imbues warmth, sensuality, and indolic depth, while orris, from the aged rhizome of iris, adds powdery, slightly woody sophistication reminiscent of soft suede. Ylang ylang contributes tropical sweetness with slightly creamy undertones, mimosa offers a delicate, honeyed floral warmth, violet gives a faint, sweet powdery nuance, and green honeysuckle lifts the heart with a refreshing, dewy, almost tangy floral scent. Together, the heart feels luminous, gentle yet complex, as if you are walking through a garden at dusk, each flower releasing its essence in a carefully choreographed dance.

The base is warm, sensual, and grounding, wrapping the florals in a soft, powdery, woody embrace. Musk, a refined synthetic, gives the perfume a skin-like softness and diffusion, enhancing the longevity of the fragrance without heaviness. Oakmoss lends an earthy, slightly bitter green tone, evoking forest floors and adding classical chypre structure. Vetiver introduces dry, smoky undertones, with a subtle woody-grassy elegance, while sandalwood, creamy and luxurious, smooths the drydown and lends a comforting warmth. Finally, civet, traditionally animalic, provides a faint, sensual underpinning—here likely synthetically reproduced to create depth and sensuality—tying the florals and woods together in an intimate, lingering trail.

The genius of Kalispera lies in the interplay of these 68 ingredients: synthetics like aldehydes and musk amplify the freshness and warmth of natural components, while rare natural absolutes, such as Bulgarian rose and orris, provide a texture and richness that cannot be replicated. The fragrance is green yet sweet, floral yet woody, powdery yet alive, perfectly capturing the elegance, refinement, and luminous intimacy suggested by its very name—good evening. It wears like a delicate but confident signature: vibrant at first, then soft and sensual, leaving an impression that is at once refined, mysterious, and timeless.

 

1964 

Bottles:

Kalispera was housed in a variety of flacons, many of them used for other Desses scents, all derived from the original designed by Pierre Camin. The Greek influence is strongly interpreted in the bottle's designs, some are reminiscent of the ancient fluted columns while others feature an egg and dart frieze of Neo-Classical design. The fragrance was elegantly packaged in shades of nasturtium and white which "can be discarded with no regrets," said the designer. Use this handy guide to help you determine the size of your bottles.

Parfum:

Parfum, also called extrait, parfum classic, extrait de parfum or extract, is the highest concentration of perfume. Vintage Desses Parfums can often contain at least 22-40 percent essential oils, a high grade alcohol, and a slight amount of water, compared to a parfum made today which may contain only 20-30 percent oils. Due to the high concentration of essential oils. Parfum can last 7 to 24 hours on the skin. Parfum is the most expensive type of perfume.

Standard Desses Parfum Bottle:

Some of the Desses parfums are housed in tapered cylindrical shaped clear crystal bottle with ground glass stoppers and decorative gilded brass collars. Bottles made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These were also used for other Desses perfumes. The 1/6 oz parfum bottle has a gilded brass screwcap so it will not leak inside the handbag. The 0.25 oz bottle has a mother of pearl type cap.

• 1/6 oz parfum purse bottle has gilded brass screwcap
• 1/4 oz bottle stands 2" tall. (originally retailed for $12.50)
• 1/2 oz bottle stands 2.75" tall. (originally retailed for $20)
• 1 oz bottle stands 3" tall. (originally retailed for $36)
• 2 oz bottle stands 4" tall.
• 4 oz bottle

Frosted Amphora Parfum Bottles:

The parfum concentration for Kalispera was housed inside of a beautiful frosted glass bottle. This exquisite bottle was designed by Pierre Camin and was a replica of an ancient Greek amphora in the Louvre. It is of amphora shape, fluted like Grecian columns and has a frosted glass stopper. This bottle was also used for the other Jean Desses perfume, Celui. All of the succeeding Desses flacons are based off of this original design.

The bottle came in three sizes:

• 1/8 oz bottle has gilded brass screwcap
• 1/4 oz bottle stands 3.25"
• 1/2 oz bottle stands 3.75"

Melon Ribbed Desses Amphora Parfum Flacon:

This is a clear, non-frosted, amphora shape with wide melon rubbed sides rather than fluting. It came in at least two sizes and held the parfum. It can be found in other Desses scents.

• 1 oz
• 2 oz

"Evening Edition" Parfum Travel Flacon:

This amphora shaped bottle holds 1/8 oz of parfum and is made up of gilded brass. It is leakproof and meant to carry in a handbag. The bottle was presented in a antelope suede covered rigid case lined with a white satin interior. These were also used for other Desses fragrances.

Combat, 1963:

"The new Kalispera perfume is presented in a deliberately dark bottle, equipped with a new hermetic cap for travel."

Parfum de Toilette:

The Parfum de Toilette was a lighter version of the Desses parfum, however, its strength would be equivalent to today's Eau de Parfum concentrations. As a lighter version due to the alcohol content, it differs little from the Parfum in aroma. Vintage Desses Parfum de Toilettes were often made up of 15-20 percent essential oils with a slightly weaker alcohol and water mix. These were highly concentrated compared to today's eau de parfums which are composed of 10-15 percent of essential oils. Parfum de Toilettes usually last about 4-8 hours.

It does not have the longevity of the Parfum as it was meant to splashed liberally over the body for a refreshing effect, mainly after bath or exercise or to boost the Parfum already applied to the skin but which may have faded. Many women who love a particular perfume may find that it is a bit too overpowering to be worn during the day, but that its Parfum de Toilette are just that much lighter to make it an acceptable day perfume too.  

Glass Stoppered Parfum de Toilette:

The Parfum de Toilette was contained in a modified amphora shaped bottle, not frosted, but polished clear crystal and topped with clear glass and lucite acrylic cap. This bottle was meant to sit upon the vanity table. Bottle was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These bottles were also used for other Desses scents.  

Modified amphora shaped bottle with ground glass stoppers. Bottles made in France by Pochet et du Courval.  These were also used for other Desses fragrances.

• 2 oz bottle stands 6" tall.
• 4 oz bottle stands 7.5" tall
• 8 oz
• 32 oz

Plastic Stoppered Parfum de Toilette Used for Travel:

Modified amphora shaped bottle with plastic screw caps. Bottles made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These were also used for other Desses fragrances.

• 2 oz
• 4 oz
• 8 oz bottle stands 7" tall

Eau de Cologne Parfumee:

The Eau de Cologne Parfumee was a lightest version of the Desses scent which was incorporated with the classic citrus notes of a traditional eau de colognes. I believe that this concentration was equivalent to today's Eau de Toilettes. Vintage Eau de Toilettes often can contain up to 5-15 percent essential oils and were much more concentrated than modern formulas. Eau de Toilettes usually last about 3 hours. 

As an eau de cologne, it differs from the Parfum de Toilette in both composition and aroma. It does not have longevity as it was meant to be splashed liberally all over the body or sprayed throughout the day to freshen up. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates.

Eau de Cologne Parfumee Glass Stoppered Bottles:

The Eau de Cologne Parfumee was contained in a modified amphora shaped bottle, not frosted, but polished clear crystal and topped with clear glass and lucite acrylic cap. This bottle was meant to sit upon the vanity table. Bottle was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These bottles were also used for other Desses scents.  

• 2 oz
• 3 oz bottle stands 5" tall
• 4 oz
• 8 oz bottle bottle stands 6" tall.
• 16 oz bottle

 

Eau de Cologne Parfumee Flacon Pour Le Voyage:

The Eau de Cologne Parfumee was contained in a modified amphora shaped bottle topped with a black plastic screw cap. Bottle was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These bottles were also used for other Desses scents.

• 2 oz
• 3 oz bottle stands 5" tall
• 4 oz
• 8 oz bottle
• 16 oz bottle stands 6" tall.

 

Perfume Sets:

Generally offered either as limited editions or only available during the Christmas holiday, these delightful perfume sets made excellent gifts for the traveler. 

Trousse de Voyage:

Leather Cased Travel Set composed of two bottles of clear and frosted glass, fluted, column styled fluted of demilune shape meant to fit against one another in round leather case, gilded brass hardware. The leather was available in either red or black. These were also used for other Desses fragrances. The set originally retailed for $45.

• 0.75 oz Parfum bottle stands 2.5" tall
• 2 oz Parfum de Toilette bottle stands 4.75" tall.

Parfum & Parfum de Toilette Baccarat Flacons:

Kalispera was also presented in heavy Baccarat crystal bottles housed in a handsome jewel case luxuriously covered in antelope leather and lined with white satin. This was originally created as a gift for the new queen of King Constantine. It was offered to the public at $500 per set. The first twelve sent to the USA were purchased quickly in Dallas, but more sets were on the way to be sold nationwide. The set included two bottles: 

• 4 oz Parfum de Toilette bottle stands 6" tall.
• 4 oz Parfum bottle stands 5" tall.

Travel Set with Atomizer:

This beautiful set includes a single crystal bottle of parfum, its leakproof screwcap and optional atomizer hardware. The set was housed inside of a brocade covered box lined with white satin.

Fate of the Fragrance: 

Kalispera was launched in 1962, entering the perfume world as a refined, sophisticated floral-woody creation that reflected the elegance and artistry of Jean Dessès. The fragrance was available in multiple concentrations, including Parfum and Parfum de Toilette, offering women the choice of an intensely radiant version or a lighter, more delicate expression. Over the years, Kalispera became increasingly rare, and although it was still being sold as late as 1984–1985, the fragrance has long since been discontinued. Today, it is considered a collectible and elusive gem, sought after by connoisseurs for its complex blend of green, floral, and woody notes—a testament to its craftsmanship and the enduring allure of a perfume that evokes the grace, sophistication, and timeless charm of its era.

Celui by Jean Desses (1938)

Celui by Jean Dessès, launched in 1938, is a fragrance whose very name embodies elegance, subtlety, and intrigue. The word “Celui” is French, meaning “the one” or “the chosen one.” Pronounced in as "suh-LWE", it is simple yet commanding, precise yet mysterious. The name evokes images of singularity and distinction—a fragrance that belongs uniquely to its wearer, intimate and selective, whispered rather than announced. Emotionally, it suggests discretion and allure, the kind of perfume that carries with it the subtle magnetism of a secret, something treasured and private, hinting at sophistication and quiet confidence rather than bold flamboyance.

The period of 1938 was poised between the grandeur of the interwar years and the looming uncertainties of World War II. Fashion in Paris was characterized by structured elegance, with couture emphasizing tailored silhouettes, cinched waists, and luxurious fabrics, reflecting both resilience and refinement. Women were beginning to embrace a modern sensibility—poised and self-possessed yet attuned to subtle glamour. In perfumery, this era favored floral chypres, aldehydic bouquets, and complex compositions that expressed both sophistication and personality. Within this context, Celui resonated perfectly: it was at once contemporary and classical, offering a nuanced, multifaceted fragrance that could complement the polished appearance and refined sensibilities of the modern Parisian woman.

Interpreted in scent, Celui opens with a zesty aldehydic top, sparkling with a crisp luminosity that immediately draws attention without overwhelming. Hawthorn adds a tart, slightly green facet, reminiscent of early spring hedgerows, while marjoram and oregano lend a subtle herbal warmth, introducing an almost unexpected depth to the brightness. This green-herbal vibrancy sets the stage for the floral heart, where rose, jasmine, gardenia, heliotrope, and violet bloom in rich, layered harmony. The roses are soft and noble, the jasmine luminous and sensuous, gardenia creamy and enveloping, heliotrope adding a faint almond-like powder, and violet providing delicate sweetness and airy lift. Together, these notes create a bouquet that is simultaneously rich, elegant, and intimate, perfectly reflecting the sense of discretion suggested by the name.

The base, classic and enduring, grounds the composition with a chypre structure deepened by civet, introducing subtle animalic warmth that contrasts the florals’ brightness, adding depth, sensuality, and persistence. The combination of soft florals and a compelling chypre base ensures that Celui leaves a lasting, refined trail—a scent described by contemporary advertisements as “a perfume as soft as a secret.” Its sophisticated balance of brightness, warmth, and floral complexity made it distinctive at a time when aldehydic florals and green-tinged chypres were increasingly popular but often lacked the intimacy and subtlety that Celui achieved.

In the context of other fragrances of the late 1930s, Celui was both of its time and singularly memorable. While it aligned with the trend of refined, aldehydic-floral chypres popularized by houses like Lanvin and Vera Borea, its use of green herbal accents, nuanced florals, and sensual civet base created a layered, sophisticated character that set it apart. For the women of the era, Celui would have been a perfume of discretion and allure—a fragrance that complemented their poise, elevated their presence, and offered a personal signature, embodying the very elegance and refinement of the couture world to which Jean Dessès himself belonged.

Celui was first unveiled in the intimate elegance of Jean Dessès’ Parisian salon, where the launch was as much a sensory experience as a presentation of fashion. As models glided through the salon showcasing his newest fall collection, Dessès lavishly sprayed the fragrance into the air, allowing it to mingle with the textures, fabrics, and movements of the gowns. The floral chypre notes of rose, jasmine, and gardenia blended with the crisp aldehydic top and subtle green-herbal accents, creating an atmosphere that was simultaneously vibrant and intimate. Guests could inhale the perfume as it floated around the room, lingering on silks, velvets, and chiffon, making Celui not just a scent to wear but a living, immersive part of the fashion experience—a perfume that announced itself as elegantly as the couture on the runway.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Celui is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a zesty aldehydic top accented with hawthorn and the herbal facets of marjoram and oregano, followed by a rich floral heart of rose, jasmine, gardenia, heliotrope and violet, layered over a classic chypre base deepened with civet.

• Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, bergamot, hyacinth, narcissus, marjoram and hawthorn
• Middle notes: oregano, violet, tuberose, rose de Mai, Egyptian jasmine, gardenia, orris and heliotrope
• Base notes: tonka bean, labdanum, cypress, vetiver, civet, ambergris, patchouli, musk, sandalwood and oakmoss

Scent Profile:

Celui opens with a sparkling, luminous top that immediately awakens the senses. The aldehydes shimmer like sunlight on water, lending a clean, airy brightness that amplifies the natural ingredients and gives the composition its unmistakable radiance. Layered with lemon and bergamot, the opening is both citrusy and refined—lemon adds a sharp, tangy clarity, while Italian or Calabrian bergamot contributes a softer, slightly floral-citrus nuance prized for its smooth, sophisticated character. 

Hyacinth introduces a watery, green floral freshness, dewy and crisp, evoking spring gardens after a light rain. Narcissus adds a subtle, indolic floral depth, faintly sweet and animalic, while marjoram brings soft herbal warmth, and hawthorn adds a delicate tartness and green-fruity nuance. The top notes are lively yet elegant, a fresh introduction that balances natural vibrancy with aldehydic sparkle.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals a lush, layered floral bouquet. Oregano offers a green, slightly resinous herbal facet, enhancing the structure of the florals and adding complexity. Violet provides a soft powdery sweetness, delicate and airy, lifting the composition without overwhelming it. Tuberose contributes creamy opulence, rich and tropical, while rose de Mai brings radiant, silky elegance—the French rose prized for its nuanced, honeyed petals that are both bright and deep.

Egyptian jasmine infuses sensuality, warm and indolic, while gardenia adds a creamy, enveloping softness. Orris, derived from the aged rhizome of iris, introduces a cool, powdery, almost suede-like nuance, and heliotrope offers a gentle almond-vanilla sweetness, softening and harmonizing the heart. Together, these notes evoke a refined, fragrant garden at dusk—complex, intimate, and balanced.

The base of Celui is rich, earthy, and enduring, grounding the florals in warmth and sensuality. Tonka bean adds a soft, sweet, slightly nutty warmth, while labdanum contributes resinous depth and a subtle balsamic glow. Cypress imparts a dry, aromatic greenery, complementing the vegetal facets in the heart, and vetiver offers smoky, earthy, woody elegance. 

Animalic notes of civet and ambergris provide a subtle sensuality, modernized with synthetics to ensure longevity and diffusion. Patchouli adds dark, earthy richness, musk enhances skin-like warmth, sandalwood rounds the composition with creamy softness, and oakmoss provides a classic chypre green-forest foundation, slightly bitter and grounding. The base weaves together the perfume’s luxurious components, creating a scent that lingers for hours, evolving gracefully on the skin.

The genius of Celui lies in its harmonious interplay of 68 ingredients. Synthetics like aldehydes and musks do not overshadow the natural components; instead, they amplify the brightness of citrus, the lift of florals, and the warmth of the base. Rare natural absolutes—Egyptian jasmine, rose de Mai, orris—provide depth, elegance, and a living texture that makes the fragrance feel alive, evolving from fresh top notes to a lush floral heart, finally settling into a powdery, woody, and subtly animalic trail. Worn on the skin, Celui is at once radiant, intimate, and sophisticated—a timeless floral chypre that whispers of elegance, mystery, and the refined glamour of pre-war Paris.

Bottles:

Celui was housed in a variety of flacons, many of them used for other Desses scents, all derived from the original designed by Pierre Camin. The Greek influence is strongly interpreted in the bottle's designs, some are reminiscent of the ancient fluted columns while others feature an egg and dart frieze of Neo-Classical design. The fragrance was elegantly packaged in shades of nasturtium and white which "can be discarded with no regrets," said the designer. Use this handy guide to help you determine the size of your bottles.

Parfum:

Parfum, also called extrait, parfum classic, extrait de parfum or extract, is the highest concentration of perfume. Vintage Desses Parfums can often contain at least 22-40 percent essential oils, a high grade alcohol, and a slight amount of water, compared to a parfum made today which may contain only 20-30 percent oils. Due to the high concentration of essential oils. Parfum can last 7 to 24 hours on the skin. Parfum is the most expensive type of perfume.

Frosted Amphora Parfum Bottles:

The parfum concentration for Celui was housed inside of a beautiful frosted glass bottle. This exquisite bottle was designed by Pierre Camin and was a replica of an ancient Greek amphora in the Louvre. It is of amphora shape, fluted like Grecian columns and has a frosted glass stopper. This bottle was also used for the other Jean Desses perfume, Kalispera. All of the succeeding Desses flacons are based off of this original design.

The bottle came in three sizes:

• 1/8 oz bottle has gilded brass screwcap
• 1/4 oz bottle stands 3.25"
• 1/2 oz bottle stands 3.75"

 

Melon Ribbed Desses Amphora Parfum Flacon:

This is a clear, non-frosted, amphora shape with wide melon rubbed sides rather than fluting. It came in at least two sizes and held the parfum. It can be found in other Desses scents.

• 1 oz
• 2 oz

"Evening Edition" Parfum Travel Flacon:

This amphora shaped bottle holds 1/8 oz of parfum and is made up of gilded brass. It is leakproof and meant to carry in a handbag. The bottle was presented in a antelope suede covered rigid case lined with a white satin interior. These were also used for other Desses fragrances.

Combat, 1959:

"Here is the latest of the delightful presentations that a great couturier gave to his first perfume: That of Jean Dessès. Bottle for the evening, gilded with fine gold, in a beige antelope case, lined with midnight blue satin. Can be found at the Jean Dessès boutique, 12, roundabout of the Champs Elysees."

Combat, 1963:

"The new Kalispera perfume is presented in a deliberately dark bottle, equipped with a new hermetic cap for travel."

Realities - Issues 204-209, 1963:

"Celui from Jean Dessès bottle crystal blue lined and trimmed by hand of Baccarat crystal, with leaf-shaped frame, gold, signed Mauboussin." 

 

Standard Desses Parfum Bottle:

Some of the Celui parfums are housed in tapered cylindrical shaped clear crystal bottle with ground glass stoppers and decorative gilded brass collars. Bottles made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These were also used for other Desses perfumes. The 1/6 oz parfum bottle has a gilded brass screwcap so it will not leak inside the handbag. The 0.25 oz bottle has a mother of pearl type cap.

• 1/6 oz parfum purse bottle has gilded brass screwcap
• 1/4 oz bottle stands 2" tall. (originally retailed for $12.50)
• 1/2 oz bottle stands 2.75" tall. (originally retailed for $20)
• 1 oz bottle stands 3" tall. (originally retailed for $36)
• 2 oz bottle stands 4" tall.
• 4 oz bottle

 

 

  

Parfum de Toilette:

The Parfum de Toilette was a lighter version of the Desses parfum, however, its strength would be equivalent to today's Eau de Parfum concentrations. As a lighter version due to the alcohol content, it differs little from the Parfum in aroma. Vintage Desses Parfum de Toilettes were often made up of 15-20 percent essential oils with a slightly weaker alcohol and water mix. These were highly concentrated compared to today's eau de parfums which are composed of 10-15 percent of essential oils. Parfum de Toilettes usually last about 4-8 hours.

It does not have the longevity of the Parfum as it was meant to splashed liberally over the body for a refreshing effect, mainly after bath or exercise or to boost the Parfum already applied to the skin but which may have faded. Many women who love a particular perfume may find that it is a bit too overpowering to be worn during the day, but that its Parfum de Toilette are just that much lighter to make it an acceptable day perfume too.  

Glass Stoppered Parfum de Toilette:

The Parfum de Toilette was contained in a modified amphora shaped bottle, not frosted, but polished clear crystal and topped with clear glass and lucite acrylic cap. This bottle was meant to sit upon the vanity table. Bottle was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These bottles were also used for other Desses scents.  

Modified amphora shaped bottle with ground glass stoppers. Bottles made in France by Pochet et du Courval.  These were also used for other Desses fragrances.

• 2 oz bottle stands 6" tall.
• 4 oz bottle stands 7.5" tall
• 8 oz
• 32 oz

Plastic Stoppered Parfum de Toilette Used for Travel:

Modified amphora shaped bottle with plastic screw caps. Bottles made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These were also used for other Desses fragrances.

• 2 oz
• 4 oz
• 8 oz bottle stands 7" tall

Eau de Cologne Parfumee:

The Eau de Cologne Parfumee was a lightest version of the Desses scent which was incorporated with the classic citrus notes of a traditional eau de colognes. I believe that this concentration was equivalent to today's Eau de Toilettes. Vintage Eau de Toilettes often can contain up to 5-15 percent essential oils and were much more concentrated than modern formulas. Eau de Toilettes usually last about 3 hours. 

As an eau de cologne, it differs from the Parfum de Toilette in both composition and aroma. It does not have longevity as it was meant to be splashed liberally all over the body or sprayed throughout the day to freshen up. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates.

Eau de Cologne Parfumee Glass Stoppered Bottles:

The Eau de Cologne Parfumee was contained in a modified amphora shaped bottle, not frosted, but polished clear crystal and topped with clear glass and lucite acrylic cap. This bottle was meant to sit upon the vanity table. Bottle was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These bottles were also used for other Desses scents.  

• 2 oz
• 3 oz bottle stands 5" tall
• 4 oz
• 8 oz bottle bottle stands 6" tall.
• 16 oz bottle

 

Eau de Cologne Parfumee Flacon Pour Le Voyage:

The Eau de Cologne Parfumee was contained in a modified amphora shaped bottle topped with a black plastic screw cap. Bottle was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These bottles were also used for other Desses scents.

• 2 oz
• 3 oz bottle stands 5" tall
• 4 oz
• 8 oz bottle
• 16 oz bottle stands 6" tall.

Perfume Sets:

Generally offered either as limited editions or only available during the Christmas holiday, these delightful perfume sets made excellent gifts for the traveler. 

Trousse de Voyage:

Leather Cased Travel Set composed of two bottles of clear and frosted glass, fluted, column styled fluted of demilune shape meant to fit against one another an oval leather case, each bottle has gilded brass screwcaps. The leather was available in either red or black. These were also used for other Desses fragrances. The set originally retailed for $45.  

• 0.75 oz Parfum bottle stands 2.5" tall
• 2 oz Parfum de Toilette bottle stands 4.75" tall.

Parfum & Parfum de Toilette Baccarat Flacons:

Kalispera was also presented in heavy Baccarat crystal bottles housed in a handsome jewel case luxuriously covered in antelope leather and lined with white satin. This was originally created as a gift for the new queen of King Constantine. It was offered to the public at $500 per set. The first twelve sent to the USA were purchased quickly in Dallas, but more sets were on the way to be sold nationwide. The set included two bottles: 

• Parfum de Toilette bottle stands 6" tall.
• Parfum bottle stands 5" tall.

 

Connaissance des arts, 1963:

"In its Baccarat crystal decanter, it's a classy gift. ... that can be used as a jewelry box, created by the great couturier Jean Desses."

Art Direction, 1964:

"Celui Kalispera Jean Desses. A rose by any other name. To introduce in this country a long established, expensive ...The bottle itself has been a prize winner in seven European design competitions, and is made of Baccarat crystal."

Travel Set with Atomizer:

This beautiful set includes a single crystal bottle of parfum, its leakproof screwcap and optional atomizer hardware. The set was housed inside of a brocade covered box lined with white satin.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Celui was launched in 1938, marking Jean Dessès’ entry into the world of perfumery with a refined, floral chypre that reflected the elegance and sophistication of pre-war Paris. Over the decades, it became increasingly rare, and though it was still available for purchase as late as 1985, the fragrance has long since been discontinued. Today, Celui is considered a coveted collector’s item, prized for its intricate blend of aldehydic top notes, lush floral heart, and classic chypre base. Its scarcity only enhances its mystique, preserving its status as a timeless, elegant signature of an era when perfume was crafted with meticulous artistry and couture-level refinement.

In 1984/1985, Celui was available in:

• Parfum 
• Eau de Toilette