Celadon by Estee Lauder (1978)

 In 1978, the perfume industry was undergoing a transformative period. The 1970s were characterized by a return to more classic, sophisticated scents as the bold, experimental fragrances of the 1960s began to wane. This era saw a growing interest in elegance and refinement, with an emphasis on traditional perfumery techniques and ingredients. Fragrances were becoming more complex and nuanced, reflecting the broader cultural shift towards a more polished and glamorous lifestyle.

During this time, there was a resurgence of interest in floral and chypre fragrances, with a particular focus on blending classic elements with modern sophistication. Estee Lauder's introduction of "Celadon" in 1978 can be seen as a response to this trend. It sought to capture the essence of both timeless elegance and contemporary chic, aligning with the prevailing market demands for refined, yet distinctive, scents.

The name "Celadon" is deeply evocative and rooted in cultural and aesthetic significance. Celadon refers to a type of glaze used in East Asian ceramics, particularly in China and Korea, known for its soft green color. This term has come to represent a subtle, sophisticated shade of green, often associated with tranquility and refinement. By choosing this name, Estee Lauder was likely aiming to convey a sense of elegance and calmness, reflecting the sophisticated nature of the fragrance.

The word "Celadon" evokes images of delicate porcelain and serene landscapes. It suggests a sense of timeless beauty and understated luxury, making it a fitting choice for a perfume intended to appeal to discerning women looking for something both classic and unique. The name implies a refined and gentle elegance, aligning with the fragrance's likely profile.

Women responding to "Celadon" would likely find it appealing for its refined and sophisticated character. The fragrance's name would evoke feelings of calm and serenity, as well as a sense of understated luxury. The association with celadon ceramics, which are often admired for their delicate and tranquil beauty, would suggest a fragrance that is both soothing and elegant.

In a time when perfumes were increasingly reflecting classic sophistication, "Celadon" would stand out for its blend of traditional elegance with a modern twist. Its appeal would be rooted in its ability to convey a sense of timeless beauty, making it a choice for women who appreciated both historical refinement and contemporary style.

The New Romantics:

In 1978, Estée Lauder's innovative approach to fragrance was embodied in the launch of The New Romantics Collection, a groundbreaking trio designed to reflect the layered fashion trends of the time. This collection, which included White Linen, Celadon, and Pavilion, was conceived with the intention of providing women with a versatile and personalized fragrance experience. The idea was to offer scents that could be worn individually for distinct olfactory profiles or layered together to create a multitude of unique fragrance combinations.

The concept behind The New Romantics Collection was inspired by the layered fashion trends of the late 1970s, where clothing often featured multiple textures and colors combined to create a single, cohesive look. Estée Lauder mirrored this fashion trend in her fragrances, allowing each perfume to be a standalone experience while also blending harmoniously with the others. This layering capability meant that when worn together, the three fragrances could interact to produce 27 different olfactory permutations, offering women nearly endless possibilities to tailor their scent to their mood or occasion.

Estée Lauder's vision for this collection was to empower women with the freedom to experiment and express themselves through fragrance. In her own words, "Fragrance is an extension of the women who wears it, a reaching out to those around her. My new three fragrances are meant to be enjoyed with new freedom. I created them to work together through their floral notes... The ingredients are natural so that one complements the other. A woman will never mix them quite the same way. She will enjoy each one separately, but she will have almost endless possibilities to express her own creations, too."

Each fragrance in The New Romantics Collection was crafted with natural ingredients that were chosen to harmonize with one another, ensuring that the overall sensory experience was both cohesive and versatile. White Linen brought a crisp, clean aroma, Celadon offered a fresh, green floral scent, and Pavilion provided a richer, more complex floral note. Together, these scents created a sophisticated olfactory palette that could be mixed and matched according to personal preference.

This innovative approach allowed women to explore their individuality and creativity through fragrance, aligning with the broader cultural shifts of the time that emphasized personal expression and freedom. By providing a structured yet flexible framework for fragrance layering, Estée Lauder not only offered a novel way to experience perfume but also resonated deeply with the evolving attitudes toward personal style and identity.

In 1978, White Linen emerged as a hallmark of crisp, spring-like freshness. Its scent was designed to evoke the purity and vitality of a new season, capturing the essence of clean linens fresh from the wash and the invigorating spirit of spring. This fragrance featured a delicate yet vibrant composition that emphasized clarity and simplicity, making it ideal for those who sought a light, refreshing scent that resonated with the natural elegance of springtime.

In contrast, Celadon was characterized as a "light mixture of a flower garden," blending the floral richness of a lush garden with a touch of verdant greenery. Its composition was a harmonious fusion of jonquils and ylang ylang, complemented by a mix of fruity and green notes that added depth and vibrancy to the fragrance. The result was a scent that evoked the delicate beauty of a blooming garden, capturing both the sweetness of flowers and the freshness of green foliage.

Pavilion offered a more exotic and complex olfactory experience, described as a "sensuous sophisticated formulation." It featured a rich bouquet of tuberose, narcissus, and jasmine, which were intertwined with earthy patchouli and warm spices. Mossy tones provided an additional layer of depth, creating a fragrance that was both luxurious and intriguing. This scent was crafted to embody sophistication and sensuality, appealing to those who desired a more opulent and enveloping fragrance experience.

Estée Lauder emphasized the connection between fragrance and personal lifestyle, noting that "Fragrance is not separate from living. Women have more varied lifestyles than ever before. They are more independent and more confident. They are showing more creativity. Now they can be as individual with fragrance as they are with their wardrobes." This perspective highlighted the evolving role of fragrance in a woman’s life, reflecting her independence and creativity. With The New Romantics Collection, Lauder provided women with the tools to express their unique identities through scent, allowing them to curate their olfactory experiences just as they did their wardrobes. This approach celebrated the diverse and dynamic nature of modern life, offering a range of fragrances that could adapt to and enhance each woman's individual style.

Layering The New Romantics:

Estée Lauder provided a range of creative tips for wearing her The New Romantics Collection fragrances, emphasizing the versatility and personal expression offered by her innovative layering concept. Her advice was intended to help women maximize the impact and enjoyment of each scent, enhancing the overall olfactory experience.

One of her suggestions was to wear the fragrances side by side, allowing each scent to bloom independently. This approach mirrors the way quadraphonic sound creates a rich, immersive auditory experience, with each fragrance contributing its unique notes to a harmonious whole. By applying the perfumes in this manner, the individual characteristics of each scent would be appreciated, while their combined effect would create a multifaceted and dynamic fragrance experience.

Lauder also recommended layering vertically, using White Linen on the neck and shoulders to highlight its crisp, spring-like freshness, Celadon on the arms to add a floral and green complexity, and Pavilion on the back of the knees for a deeper, more sensual touch. This method allowed the more robust scents to rise and mingle with the lighter notes, creating a balanced and evolving fragrance profile that interacted with the body’s natural warmth and movement.

For a more adaptive approach, Lauder suggested applying different fragrances throughout the day based on mood and activity. Starting the day with the invigorating freshness of White Linen would provide a crisp, clean start, while transitioning to Celadon in the afternoon would bring a refreshing, floral nuance. As evening approached, Pavilion could be applied to evoke a sophisticated, sensual aura. This method allowed women to tailor their scent to different parts of their day, enhancing their overall experience.

Another playful recommendation was to wear Celadon on one wrist, Pavilion on the other, and White Linen on the neck and shoulders. This technique created a dynamic interplay of scents as the wearer moved, with the fragrances drifting and blending across their body. This approach highlighted the collection's layering potential and added an element of personal interaction with the fragrances.

Lauder encouraged experimentation with quantities to achieve the desired effect. She suggested using one short spray of Celadon, two long sprays of Pavilion, and three short sprays of White Linen, or applying one fragrance all over and touching pulse points with others. This flexibility allowed women to customize their scent experience to match their preferences and the intensity they desired.

Finally, Lauder noted that wearing multiple fragrances helped maintain a fresh perception of the scents. When wearing only one fragrance for an extended period, one’s senses can become accustomed to it, diminishing its impact. By alternating between two or three fragrances, the nose remained attuned to the evolving notes, ensuring that the scent continued to be perceived as novel and engaging. This approach also meant that those around the wearer would remain pleasantly aware of the fragrance’s complexity and allure.

Prices for The New Romantics:

In 1980, the retail prices for The New Romantics Collection reflected a tiered pricing strategy based on both the fragrance and the size of the bottle. For the smaller 0.5 oz parfum sprays, White Linen was priced at $8.50, making it the most expensive of the trio. This price premium likely reflected its growing popularity and perceived value. Pavilion followed closely at $8.00, while Celadon was priced at $7.50, positioning it as the most affordable option in the smaller size.

When considering the larger 1.75 oz parfum sprays, White Linen remained the priciest at $20.00, reinforcing its status as the collection's flagship fragrance. Pavilion was priced at $17.50, and Celadon at $15.00, showing a consistent pricing hierarchy that mirrored the smaller sizes. The differences in pricing across the perfumes could have been influenced by factors such as production costs, perceived market demand, and the individual appeal of each fragrance.

By 1994, the prices for the 0.5 oz parfum sprays had decreased slightly, reflecting a shift in the market or a strategic adjustment by Estée Lauder. White Linen remained at $8.50, unchanged from its 1980 price. Pavilion saw a reduction to $7.50, and Celadon dropped to $6.50. The price adjustments for Pavilion and Celadon indicated a continued effort to remain competitive and accessible, possibly due to their diminished popularity compared to White Linen. These price changes highlighted the evolving dynamics within the fragrance market and the impact of consumer preferences on pricing strategies.

Popularity of White Linen:

Estée Lauder's The New Romantics Collection was initially envisioned as an adventurous exploration of fragrance layering, reflecting the trend of combining multiple scents to create a unique, personalized olfactory experience. White Linen, Celadon, and Pavilion were each crafted to interact harmoniously, allowing women to experiment with different combinations and express their individuality through scent. However, despite the innovative concept, White Linen quickly emerged as the standout success of the line, eclipsing its companions and becoming the focal point of the collection.

As White Linen gained popularity, it became clear that it was the true winner among the trio. The fragrance resonated strongly with consumers, leading Estée Lauder to pivot its focus solely toward this successful product. By 1985, the two other fragrances, Celadon and Pavilion, were described as "moribund" in comparison, indicating they were struggling to maintain relevance and appeal in the marketplace.

In 1986, Bob Barnes, then president of Estée Lauder USA, acknowledged a concern that White Linen was being perceived as a summer fragrance, potentially limiting its appeal throughout the year. To counter this perception and reinforce its versatility, the company adopted a new tagline: "White Linen, a crisp, refreshing fragrance from Estée Lauder to live in all summer long, all year long." This strategic move aimed to broaden the fragrance's appeal, emphasizing its suitability for any season.

Ultimately, White Linen proved to be the enduring success of The New Romantics Collection, while Celadon and Pavilion were discontinued around 1994. The preference for a single, distinct fragrance over a layering system may have contributed to this outcome. Women may have favored the simplicity of a singular, well-defined scent rather than the complexity of combining multiple perfumes. White Linen's ability to capture and maintain consumer interest ensured its lasting presence, while the concept of layering multiple fragrances, despite its initial allure, did not resonate as strongly in the long term.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Celadon is classified as a green floral fragrance for women. "A true drift of glorious flowers - a delicious field full of jonquils and exotic greenery."

• Top notes: aldehydes, galbanum, bergamot
• Middle notes: rose, jonquil
• Base notes: musk, vetiver, oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, cedar

Scent Profile:

As you experience the top notes of "Celadon," the initial burst is a vibrant, effervescent blend of aldehydes, galbanum, and bergamot. The aldehydes create a shimmering, almost soapy freshness that feels crisp and clean, like the first breath of air on a brisk morning. They provide a bright, sparkling quality that invigorates the senses.

Galbanum adds a rich, green intensity to the mix, reminiscent of freshly cut grass and verdant foliage. Its slightly resinous and herbaceous aroma brings to mind the lushness of a dew-kissed garden, evoking the essence of exotic greenery and a sense of verdant expansiveness. This green note is earthy yet refined, hinting at the richness of the fragrance to come. Bergamot contributes a citrusy brightness with its tangy, slightly bitter edge. It feels like a burst of sunshine, adding a zesty, lively quality that lifts the scent and adds a touch of sophisticated sparkle. Together, these top notes create a dynamic, fresh opening that feels both invigorating and elegantly complex.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals its floral splendor, starting with the rose. This note brings a deep, velvety richness that envelops you in its classic beauty. The rose's scent is lush and romantic, with a hint of sweetness that feels both luxurious and timeless. Jonquil, with its delicate yet intoxicating fragrance, adds a unique floral facet to the heart of "Celadon." It has a fresh, slightly green and honeyed quality, reminiscent of a field of blooming jonquils on a warm spring day. This note lends a sense of natural, radiant beauty, enhancing the floral character of the perfume with a touch of exotic charm.

As the fragrance settles into its base, the scent deepens into a complex, earthy blend. Musk provides a sensual, skin-like warmth that feels intimate and alluring. Its subtle, animalic quality adds depth and a lingering presence to the fragrance, enhancing its overall sophistication. Vetiver adds a woody, smoky nuance, reminiscent of freshly turned earth and rich forest floors. Its green, rooty aroma grounds the perfume with a sense of natural richness and complexity, blending seamlessly with the other base notes to create a deep, resonant foundation.

Oakmoss introduces an earthy, slightly leathery undertone, evoking the scent of ancient forests and the lush undergrowth of a dense woodland. Its rich, mossy aroma adds a touch of timeless elegance, anchoring the fragrance with a sense of classic, enduring beauty. Sandalwood brings a creamy, woody warmth that feels smooth and luxurious. Its soft, almost milky scent imparts a feeling of calm and tranquility, complementing the other base notes with its rich, enduring fragrance.

Patchouli adds a touch of earthy, spicy depth with its rich, slightly sweet aroma. It evokes images of exotic lands and adds an element of mystery and sophistication to the base, blending harmoniously with the other notes. Cedar provides a crisp, dry woodiness that feels clean and fresh. Its aromatic quality is grounding and stabilizing, adding a touch of sharp, pine-like clarity to the base and contributing to the fragrance's overall balance and depth.

In "Celadon," each ingredient comes together to create a harmonious and multifaceted olfactory experience, blending fresh green notes with rich floral and earthy undertones to form a fragrance that is both elegant and evocative.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Celadon by Estee Lauder, which first graced the fragrance world in 1978, was discontinued around 1994. Its discontinuation marked the end of an era for a scent that captured a distinctive blend of fresh floral elegance and earthy sophistication. As a fragrance, Celadon was celebrated for its vibrant green notes and lush floral heart, offering a unique olfactory experience that resonated with its time. The decision to retire Celadon was likely influenced by shifting trends in the fragrance industry, as the market increasingly favored new and evolving scent profiles. The end of Celadon’s production was a poignant moment for enthusiasts of the perfume, as it closed a chapter on a beloved fragrance that had offered a refined and distinctive option in the realm of green floral scents.
 

White Linen by Estee Lauder (1978)

 Launched in 1978, White Linen by Estée Lauder emerged during a period when the fragrance market was predominantly dominated by rich, opulent perfumes, characterized by intense floral, oriental, and chypre compositions. The late 1970s were a time when powerful, heady fragrances like Opium by Yves Saint Laurent (1977) and Chanel No. 19 (1970) were making waves. These fragrances were known for their complex, bold scents, often layered with spices, resins, and heavy florals, reflecting the era's fascination with grandeur and exoticism.

In this context, White Linen offered a distinct contrast. Created by the renowned perfumers at IFF, it was designed to be a breath of fresh air—a clean, elegant, and understated fragrance. Its composition was a departure from the prevailing trends of the time, focusing instead on a purity that evoked a sense of simplicity and refinement. The fragrance emphasized a crisp, clean scent profile that was both modern and timeless, featuring notes that conjured the idea of freshly laundered linens, with its emphasis on clean florals and subtle woody undertones.

The name "White Linen" was strategically chosen to reflect these qualities. "White" symbolizes purity, cleanliness, and simplicity, while "Linen" evokes an image of fresh, crisp fabric that has just been washed. Together, these words suggest a sense of effortless elegance and everyday luxury—a contrast to the more opulent and complex fragrances of the era. This name effectively communicated a vision of understated sophistication and modern freshness, appealing to women who desired a fragrance that was both refined and approachable.

The imagery associated with "White Linen" would likely evoke emotions of clarity and cleanliness. It might bring to mind serene, sunlit spaces filled with the scent of fresh air and newly laundered fabrics. The name suggests an effortless grace, embodying a sense of calm and understated beauty. Women responding to White Linen would have likely been drawn to its sophisticated simplicity—a fragrance that provided a refined yet subtle olfactory signature, perfect for everyday wear. It catered to those who appreciated a scent that was elegant without being overpowering, reflecting a modern, polished persona.

In summary, White Linen carved out a unique niche in the fragrance landscape of the late 1970s by presenting a clean, fresh alternative to the era's more extravagant perfumes. Its name and scent profile resonated with a desire for purity and understated elegance, appealing to women who sought a sophisticated yet uncomplicated fragrance experience.

The New Romantics:

In 1978, Estée Lauder's innovative approach to fragrance was embodied in the launch of The New Romantics Collection, a groundbreaking trio designed to reflect the layered fashion trends of the time. This collection, which included White Linen, Celadon, and Pavilion, was conceived with the intention of providing women with a versatile and personalized fragrance experience. The idea was to offer scents that could be worn individually for distinct olfactory profiles or layered together to create a multitude of unique fragrance combinations.

The concept behind The New Romantics Collection was inspired by the layered fashion trends of the late 1970s, where clothing often featured multiple textures and colors combined to create a single, cohesive look. Estée Lauder mirrored this fashion trend in her fragrances, allowing each perfume to be a standalone experience while also blending harmoniously with the others. This layering capability meant that when worn together, the three fragrances could interact to produce 27 different olfactory permutations, offering women nearly endless possibilities to tailor their scent to their mood or occasion.

Estée Lauder's vision for this collection was to empower women with the freedom to experiment and express themselves through fragrance. In her own words, "Fragrance is an extension of the women who wears it, a reaching out to those around her. My new three fragrances are meant to be enjoyed with new freedom. I created them to work together through their floral notes... The ingredients are natural so that one complements the other. A woman will never mix them quite the same way. She will enjoy each one separately, but she will have almost endless possibilities to express her own creations, too."

Each fragrance in The New Romantics Collection was crafted with natural ingredients that were chosen to harmonize with one another, ensuring that the overall sensory experience was both cohesive and versatile. White Linen brought a crisp, clean aroma, Celadon offered a fresh, green floral scent, and Pavilion provided a richer, more complex floral note. Together, these scents created a sophisticated olfactory palette that could be mixed and matched according to personal preference.

This innovative approach allowed women to explore their individuality and creativity through fragrance, aligning with the broader cultural shifts of the time that emphasized personal expression and freedom. By providing a structured yet flexible framework for fragrance layering, Estée Lauder not only offered a novel way to experience perfume but also resonated deeply with the evolving attitudes toward personal style and identity.

In 1978, White Linen emerged as a hallmark of crisp, spring-like freshness. Its scent was designed to evoke the purity and vitality of a new season, capturing the essence of clean linens fresh from the wash and the invigorating spirit of spring. This fragrance featured a delicate yet vibrant composition that emphasized clarity and simplicity, making it ideal for those who sought a light, refreshing scent that resonated with the natural elegance of springtime.

In contrast, Celadon was characterized as a "light mixture of a flower garden," blending the floral richness of a lush garden with a touch of verdant greenery. Its composition was a harmonious fusion of jonquils and ylang ylang, complemented by a mix of fruity and green notes that added depth and vibrancy to the fragrance. The result was a scent that evoked the delicate beauty of a blooming garden, capturing both the sweetness of flowers and the freshness of green foliage.

Pavilion offered a more exotic and complex olfactory experience, described as a "sensuous sophisticated formulation." It featured a rich bouquet of tuberose, narcissus, and jasmine, which were intertwined with earthy patchouli and warm spices. Mossy tones provided an additional layer of depth, creating a fragrance that was both luxurious and intriguing. This scent was crafted to embody sophistication and sensuality, appealing to those who desired a more opulent and enveloping fragrance experience.

Estée Lauder emphasized the connection between fragrance and personal lifestyle, noting that "Fragrance is not separate from living. Women have more varied lifestyles than ever before. They are more independent and more confident. They are showing more creativity. Now they can be as individual with fragrance as they are with their wardrobes." This perspective highlighted the evolving role of fragrance in a woman’s life, reflecting her independence and creativity. With The New Romantics Collection, Lauder provided women with the tools to express their unique identities through scent, allowing them to curate their olfactory experiences just as they did their wardrobes. This approach celebrated the diverse and dynamic nature of modern life, offering a range of fragrances that could adapt to and enhance each woman's individual style.

Layering The New Romantics:

Estée Lauder provided a range of creative tips for wearing her The New Romantics Collection fragrances, emphasizing the versatility and personal expression offered by her innovative layering concept. Her advice was intended to help women maximize the impact and enjoyment of each scent, enhancing the overall olfactory experience.

One of her suggestions was to wear the fragrances side by side, allowing each scent to bloom independently. This approach mirrors the way quadraphonic sound creates a rich, immersive auditory experience, with each fragrance contributing its unique notes to a harmonious whole. By applying the perfumes in this manner, the individual characteristics of each scent would be appreciated, while their combined effect would create a multifaceted and dynamic fragrance experience.

Lauder also recommended layering vertically, using White Linen on the neck and shoulders to highlight its crisp, spring-like freshness, Celadon on the arms to add a floral and green complexity, and Pavilion on the back of the knees for a deeper, more sensual touch. This method allowed the more robust scents to rise and mingle with the lighter notes, creating a balanced and evolving fragrance profile that interacted with the body’s natural warmth and movement.

For a more adaptive approach, Lauder suggested applying different fragrances throughout the day based on mood and activity. Starting the day with the invigorating freshness of White Linen would provide a crisp, clean start, while transitioning to Celadon in the afternoon would bring a refreshing, floral nuance. As evening approached, Pavilion could be applied to evoke a sophisticated, sensual aura. This method allowed women to tailor their scent to different parts of their day, enhancing their overall experience.

Another playful recommendation was to wear Celadon on one wrist, Pavilion on the other, and White Linen on the neck and shoulders. This technique created a dynamic interplay of scents as the wearer moved, with the fragrances drifting and blending across their body. This approach highlighted the collection's layering potential and added an element of personal interaction with the fragrances.

Lauder encouraged experimentation with quantities to achieve the desired effect. She suggested using one short spray of Celadon, two long sprays of Pavilion, and three short sprays of White Linen, or applying one fragrance all over and touching pulse points with others. This flexibility allowed women to customize their scent experience to match their preferences and the intensity they desired.

Finally, Lauder noted that wearing multiple fragrances helped maintain a fresh perception of the scents. When wearing only one fragrance for an extended period, one’s senses can become accustomed to it, diminishing its impact. By alternating between two or three fragrances, the nose remained attuned to the evolving notes, ensuring that the scent continued to be perceived as novel and engaging. This approach also meant that those around the wearer would remain pleasantly aware of the fragrance’s complexity and allure.

Prices for The New Romantics:

In 1980, the retail prices for The New Romantics Collection reflected a tiered pricing strategy based on both the fragrance and the size of the bottle. For the smaller 0.5 oz parfum sprays, White Linen was priced at $8.50, making it the most expensive of the trio. This price premium likely reflected its growing popularity and perceived value. Pavilion followed closely at $8.00, while Celadon was priced at $7.50, positioning it as the most affordable option in the smaller size.

When considering the larger 1.75 oz parfum sprays, White Linen remained the priciest at $20.00, reinforcing its status as the collection's flagship fragrance. Pavilion was priced at $17.50, and Celadon at $15.00, showing a consistent pricing hierarchy that mirrored the smaller sizes. The differences in pricing across the perfumes could have been influenced by factors such as production costs, perceived market demand, and the individual appeal of each fragrance.

By 1994, the prices for the 0.5 oz parfum sprays had decreased slightly, reflecting a shift in the market or a strategic adjustment by Estée Lauder. White Linen remained at $8.50, unchanged from its 1980 price. Pavilion saw a reduction to $7.50, and Celadon dropped to $6.50. The price adjustments for Pavilion and Celadon indicated a continued effort to remain competitive and accessible, possibly due to their diminished popularity compared to White Linen. These price changes highlighted the evolving dynamics within the fragrance market and the impact of consumer preferences on pricing strategies.

Popularity of White Linen:

Estée Lauder's The New Romantics Collection was initially envisioned as an adventurous exploration of fragrance layering, reflecting the trend of combining multiple scents to create a unique, personalized olfactory experience. White Linen, Celadon, and Pavilion were each crafted to interact harmoniously, allowing women to experiment with different combinations and express their individuality through scent. However, despite the innovative concept, White Linen quickly emerged as the standout success of the line, eclipsing its companions and becoming the focal point of the collection.

As White Linen gained popularity, it became clear that it was the true winner among the trio. The fragrance resonated strongly with consumers, leading Estée Lauder to pivot its focus solely toward this successful product. By 1985, the two other fragrances, Celadon and Pavilion, were described as "moribund" in comparison, indicating they were struggling to maintain relevance and appeal in the marketplace.

In 1986, Bob Barnes, then president of Estée Lauder USA, acknowledged a concern that White Linen was being perceived as a summer fragrance, potentially limiting its appeal throughout the year. To counter this perception and reinforce its versatility, the company adopted a new tagline: "White Linen, a crisp, refreshing fragrance from Estée Lauder to live in all summer long, all year long." This strategic move aimed to broaden the fragrance's appeal, emphasizing its suitability for any season.

Ultimately, White Linen proved to be the enduring success of The New Romantics Collection, while Celadon and Pavilion were discontinued around 1994. The preference for a single, distinct fragrance over a layering system may have contributed to this outcome. Women may have favored the simplicity of a singular, well-defined scent rather than the complexity of combining multiple perfumes. White Linen's ability to capture and maintain consumer interest ensured its lasting presence, while the concept of layering multiple fragrances, despite its initial allure, did not resonate as strongly in the long term.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? White Linen is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It begins with a aldehydic, fresh flowery top, followed by a radiant floral heart, resting on a sensual, spicy, woody base. 

"Top notes sparkle with a fresh floral aldehyde composition recalling the crisp air of springs first scents - lavender, Bulgarian rose, Moroccan roses, jasmine, orange blossom, lily of the valley and violet blending with pimento berry, orris and the clean, sweet sharpness of orange. Background warms the vetiver, moss, incense and amber."

• Top notes: aldehydes, peach accord, citrus oils, flower calyx accord, Japanese honeysuckle, Seville orange
• Middle notes: Provencal lavender, linalool, Dutch hyacinth, Tunisian orange blossom, Bulgarian rose, Chinese gardenia, lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellal, Swiss lilac, lilacine, orchid accord, Grasse jasmine absolute, Moroccan rose absolute, Nossi-Be ylang ylang oil, Florentine iris, Jamaican pimento berry, Tuscan violet, ionone
• Base notes: Haitian vetiver, Tonkin musk, Omani frankincense, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Virginian cedar, ambergris, Ceylon sandalwood, Abyssinian civet, Alpine honey, Siam benzoin, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin

Scent Profile:

White Linen by Estée Lauder is a fragrance that opens with a radiant gust of aldehydic brilliance—bright, effervescent, and crisply abstract, like the cool, freshly laundered air that inspired its name. These aldehydes don’t simply sparkle—they explode like light refracted through frost, lending the perfume its iconic "clean linen" impression. But beneath this shimmering veil is a nuanced interplay of citrus and floral tones, each with its own botanical lineage and olfactory richness.

The first bloom comes from a Seville orange, sun-drenched and bitter-sweet, its peel yielding a tart brightness that mingles effortlessly with the soft fuzz of a peach accord, offering a tender juiciness. This fruitiness is refined, not ripe—a watercolor wash of orchard air rather than syrupy pulp. Layered into this opening is the flower calyx accord, a green and delicately bitter note that mimics the leafy sepals that cradle blossoms. It’s joined by Japanese honeysuckle, sweet and nectarous, with a whisper of green sap that adds realism to the bouquet.

Then arrives a heart lush with floral grandeur: lavender from Provence opens the central theme—herbaceous and aromatic, but softened here to lend a powdery, romantic grace. This is not the bracing lavender of barbershops; it’s more refined, more floral. From there, the perfume blooms outward: Dutch hyacinth brings a waxy, rich floralcy; Swiss lilac, delicate and ephemeral, conjures pastel petals on a spring breeze; and Chinese gardenia, creamy and sultry, threads through the heart with a narcotic depth.

Among the most regal players is Bulgarian rose, famed for its complexity—spicy, lemony, with honeyed warmth—accompanied by the fruitier, deeper Moroccan rose absolute. Their contrast creates a velvety density, neither too dewy nor overly jammy. Grasse jasmine absolute, picked from the legendary fields of Southern France, adds a touch of indolic sensuality—animalic yet radiant. Tunisian orange blossom lends a green-white freshness, and the Nossi-Bé ylang ylang oil from Madagascar adds creamy, slightly banana-like sweetness, subtly anchoring the floral symphony with its tropical languor.

What elevates these natural materials is their partnership with select synthetics. Hydroxycitronellal, used for its dewy, lily-like scent, amplifies the lily of the valley, rendering it more dewy and realistic than the raw flower ever could provide. Lilacine mimics lilac—an elusive note to extract naturally—and creates an impression of fresh lilac blooms drenched in morning mist. Ionone, a molecule derived from violets, captures their powdery, woody, and ethereal character. It enhances the Tuscan violet note, giving it both presence and persistence. Linalool, found in lavender and citrus, boosts the floral freshness and lends a lightly herbal backbone.

The spice note of Jamaican pimento berry emerges mid-development—rosy, clove-like, and slightly peppery—introducing a piquant warmth that gently bridges the transition to the base. From Florentine iris, prized for its buttery, suede-like aroma, comes an elegant earthiness, balanced perfectly between powder and skin.

As the perfume settles into its base, warmth takes over. Haitian vetiver contributes a clean, smoky woodiness; it’s dry and slightly bitter, anchoring the scent in the soil. Virginian cedarwood, with its pencil-shaving dryness, is paired with the creamy sweetness of Ceylon sandalwood, yielding a smooth, polished effect. From the Arabian Peninsula comes Omani frankincense, which gives the drydown a resinous clarity—lemony and mineralic, like sun-heated stone.

Yugoslavian oakmoss introduces a mossy depth, adding a classic chypre character: shadowy, forested, slightly damp. Meanwhile, ambergris (or its synthetic equivalent) lends a salty, animalic shimmer that enhances the longevity and richness of the blend. Abyssinian civet, used in trace amounts, provides a sensual, musky depth—warm and almost skin-like. Rounding out the base are sweet resinous notes: Siam benzoin with its vanillic warmth; Venezuelan tonka bean, full of cozy, hay-like coumarin; and Alpine honey, rich and floral, blending beautifully with the lingering floral traces above.

Together, this carefully orchestrated blend of natural ingredients and skillfully chosen aroma molecules creates a perfume of striking contrast—cool and fresh at the top, floral and romantic in the heart, and warm, grounded, and quietly sensual in the base. White Linen doesn’t just smell like clean laundry—it evokes the idea of timeless elegance, of freshly pressed linen billowing in spring air, of poise and restraint that hides layers of passion beneath.

Bottles:

White Linen, a signature fragrance from Estée Lauder, was elegantly housed in a bottle designed by the renowned Pierre Dinand. Dinand’s design became iconic for its clean, sophisticated lines, which reflected the crisp and fresh character of the fragrance itself. Over the years, this bottle style remained largely unchanged, maintaining its classic silhouette with minimal modifications. The consistent design underscored the fragrance’s timeless appeal and the enduring quality associated with the Estée Lauder brand.

The standard White Linen bottles were available in various sizes to cater to different preferences. These included a 0.25 oz parfum, a 0.50 oz parfum, a 1 oz parfum, and a 0.25 oz signature parfum spray. This range allowed consumers to choose the size that best fit their needs, whether for daily wear or special occasions.

In 1983, Estée Lauder introduced a special limited edition bottle called the Frosted Shell for the Christmas season. This limited edition bottle was a frosted glass creation shaped like a delicate shell, capturing the wintery essence of the holiday season. It featured a gold-tone cap adorned with a silken tassel, adding a touch of festive elegance. The Frosted Shell bottle held 0.25 oz of pure parfum and was originally priced at $40, reflecting its exclusivity and seasonal appeal. This special edition exemplified Estée Lauder’s commitment to offering unique and luxurious packaging options that complemented the fragrance’s refined character.

Fate of the Fragrance:

White Linen has been continuously made since 1978. Although, changes have been made. As of 2024, White Linen continues to be available on Estée Lauder's website, but this version represents a departure from its original formulation. The modern incarnation of White Linen has been carefully reformulated to align with contemporary preferences and to adhere to the latest International Fragrance Association (IFRA) guidelines, which impose restrictions on certain ingredients for safety and environmental reasons.

Fragrance Composition:

It is classified as fresh floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: Bulgarian rose, jasmine, lily of the valley
• Middle notes: violet, orris
• Base notes: vetiver, moss, amber

Differing Scent Profiles:

The transition from the original 1978 formula of Estee Lauder's White Linen to its current reformulated version represents a significant shift in both complexity and style, reflecting changes in consumer preferences and ingredient regulations over time.

The reformulated version of White Linen, classified as a fresh floral fragrance, has undergone a substantial simplification of its original structure. The top notes now feature Bulgarian rose, jasmine, and lily of the valley. This new opening retains the floral essence of the original but without the distinctive aldehydic sparkle and the complexity of citrus and peach. The focus is on a more straightforward, refined floral bouquet that emphasizes the elegance of rose and jasmine, with lily of the valley adding a fresh, green quality.

In the middle notes, the reformulated version includes violet and orris. The absence of the broader range of floral components from the original heart, such as hyacinth, gardenia, and Moroccan rose, results in a more streamlined and less intricate floral profile. Violet introduces a soft, powdery sweetness, while orris adds a subtle, creamy powderiness that provides a touch of elegance and depth.

The base notes of the current formula are simplified to vetiver, moss, and amber. This adjustment eliminates many of the original base notes, including musk, incense, oakmoss, cedar, civet, honey, benzoin, and tonka bean. The result is a cleaner, less complex base that retains the earthy and warm qualities of vetiver and amber, with moss providing a touch of freshness and natural depth. This simplified base aims for a modern, more accessible finish, aligning with contemporary preferences for cleaner and less intense fragrances.

Overall, the current formula of White Linen reflects a shift towards a fresher and more streamlined floral profile, with a focus on key floral notes and a simplified base. This contrasts with the original 1978 version's rich and complex aldehydic floral composition, which was notable for its depth and intricate layering of ingredients.

Azuree by Estee Lauder (1968)

Azurée by Estée Lauder was launched in January 1968, a time of sweeping cultural change and emerging modern sensibilities. The late 1960s were defined by social liberation, youthful rebellion, and the dawn of second-wave feminism. Fashion was shifting dramatically—from the elegant formality of early ‘60s silhouettes to the more relaxed, expressive styles of mod, bohemian, and ethnic influences. Designers like Yves Saint Laurent, Mary Quant, and Emilio Pucci were in their prime, introducing bold colors, geometric prints, and relaxed tailoring. In perfumery, this was a transitional period: aldehydic florals like No. 5 were still dominant, but earthy chypres and green fragrances were gaining popularity, reflecting a return to nature and individuality.

The name “Azurée” carried distinct connotations of warmth, glamour, and escape. It is a made-up word, a clever blend of “azure”—a vivid sky blue or the color of the Mediterranean Sea—and the “ée” ending lifted from Estée’s own name. Though not a real French word, Azurée sounds French and elegant, lending it a sophisticated, aspirational tone. Pronounced “ah-zur-AY,” it evokes imagery of golden sunlight shimmering on the sea, sun-kissed skin, coastal breezes, and the languid luxury of Cap d’Antibes, where Mrs. Lauder had a vacation home. There is a sense of serenity, but also chic worldliness—the fragrance of someone well-traveled, confident, and modern.

Mrs. Lauder once described Azurée as “a golden girl, languorously basking in the warm Mediterranean sun. She is the eternal optimist spreading sunshine everywhere she goes.” This description was more than a marketing line—it positioned Azurée as a fragrance for the self-assured woman who embraced her sensuality and optimism. Women of 1968, increasingly carving out independent identities, would have related to this message. Perfume was still deeply tied to aspiration, and Azurée offered a sensory passport to a life of affluence and sunshine, far removed from the turmoil of protest and political unrest that also defined the decade.

Created by master perfumer Bernard Chant—who also authored Aramis and Cabochard—Azurée is classified as a floral chypre. This fragrance opens with an exhilarating burst of fresh citrus, blended with crisp herbal notes like basil, sage, and spearmint. The greenness is sharp and bracing, suggesting cool sea air or crushed leaves underfoot on a garden terrace. This clarity is soon softened by a refined floral heart, giving it a delicate femininity, while the dry down introduces a rich, earthy base of oakmoss and patchouli. These deeper elements anchor the composition with warmth and complexity, evoking sunbaked stones, driftwood, and the salty air of the Riviera. The use of oakmoss and patchouli links Azurée to classic chypres, but its luminous freshness and Mediterranean aromatic twist set it apart.

In context, Azurée was both aligned with the trends and ahead of them. The 1960s saw a growing taste for green and herbal notes—think Vent Vert (Balmain), Chanel No. 19, or Chant’s own Cabochard. But Azurée's blending of those sharp greens with luminous citrus and a sensual, earthy base felt especially modern. It embraced the classic French chypre structure but translated it into something breezier, sun-drenched, and more accessible—essentially American, yet cosmopolitan. It was not a sweet, powdery floral but a statement of clarity, strength, and quiet sensuality.

Ultimately, Azurée was a fragrance of its time: independent, natural, refined, and quietly powerful. It was the scent of a woman stepping confidently into a new era, with the Riviera sun at her back and the modern world at her feet.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Azuree by Estee Lauder is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. A sparkling top note of florals, fresh citrus and crisp herbaceous notes of basil, sage and spearmint combine with a rich, woody background of oakmoss and patchouli. It was described as "a fresh scent rich with Mediterranean warmth and tang." 

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Moroccan armoise, Comoros basil, Spanish sage, Mediterranean sea grass, Chinese gardenia, water lily accord 
• Middle notes: cyclamen aldehyde, Grasse jasmine, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Bulgarian rose, Bourbon geranium, Florentine orris 
• Base notes: Haiti vetiver, Penang patchouli, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Virginian cedar, leather, ambergris, Tonkin musk 

 

Scent Profile:

When you first encounter Azurée by Estée Lauder, it greets you with a dazzling burst of sunlit freshness—a lively impression that fizzes and glows. This initial sparkle is owed to aldehydes, synthetic molecules that lift the composition with an airy, champagne-like brightness. These aldehydes don’t smell of any one flower; instead, they evoke cool, clean linen or the crackling energy of sunlight on water, setting the tone for what follows: a scent that feels like light, wind, and movement.

From this effervescent opening emerges the tangy bitterness of Calabrian bergamot. Grown along the Ionian coast of southern Italy, Calabrian bergamot is prized for its complexity—its citrus tang is laced with green floral nuances and a faint tea-like dryness. Unlike sweeter varieties from elsewhere, this bergamot has a zesty sharpness that enhances the aldehydes’ brilliance while tethering them to earth.

Interwoven with the citrus, you detect the subtly aromatic breath of Moroccan armoise—a silvery-green shrub with a dry, camphorous edge, almost like crushed leaves in the hand. Armoise lends the perfume a sharp herbal backbone, joined by the green-spiced sweetness of Comoros basil, grown on the Indian Ocean islands where the equatorial sun deepens the herb’s natural anise and clove-like notes. Spanish sage, resinous and slightly peppery, follows—its bitter-green depth conjuring sunbaked hillsides in Andalusia, dry and aromatic. Mediterranean sea grass adds an unusual marine-green chord—its watery coolness, enhanced with subtle ozonic synthetics, gives the composition a salty, windswept character, echoing the fragrance’s coastal inspiration.

Amid this herbal brightness, florals begin to unfold. Chinese gardenia, creamy and lush, offers a mild sweetness with hints of green banana and soft white petals, while the water lily accord, a synthetic recreation, adds a dewy transparency—light, watery, and cool, helping to soften the herbaceous top and ease us into the heart.

As the fragrance settles, the florals deepen. Cyclamen aldehyde, a synthetic floral molecule, introduces a clean, soapy coolness—more abstract than natural flower, like damp petals in a breeze. Grasse jasmine, cultivated in the perfumed fields of southern France, brings a honeyed, indolic richness. Grown under the Provençal sun, it is renowned for its purity and depth—a far cry from the headier jasmine of India or Egypt. Its warmth is perfectly balanced by the exotic, narcotic sweetness of Nossi-Bé ylang ylang, harvested from the volcanic island off Madagascar. The ylang here is intensely floral, slightly fruity, and velvety smooth.

Then comes Bulgarian rose, full-bodied and dark, with a slightly peppery green edge. This variety is rich in phenylethyl alcohol, giving it a natural freshness that enhances the aldehydic top. Paired with Bourbon geranium, grown on Réunion Island, the rose’s complexity is further enhanced. The geranium, with its rosy-minty coolness, acts as a botanical echo, sharpening and freshening the floral heart. Florentine orris, the rarest and most powdery of roots, adds a soft, suede-like richness. Derived from the dried rhizomes of the iris flower after several years of aging, its effect is luxurious and tactile—pale, dry, and faintly woody.

As Azurée dries down, it deepens into a sensual base that feels both grounded and expansive. Haitian vetiver, smoky and green, lends a woody grassiness that is more refined and dry than the rootier vetivers of India or Java. Penang patchouli, from Malaysia, is warm and earthy with a chocolate-like depth. Its smoother profile—less camphoraceous than Indonesian varieties—adds richness without overwhelming the other elements. Yugoslavian oakmoss, harvested from Balkan forests, forms the chypre’s essential core. Its mossy, inky, slightly leathery aroma binds the floral heart to the earthy base. This variety is prized for its complexity and dryness, anchoring the fragrance with an old-world gravitas.

Virginian cedar contributes a pencil-shaving crispness, its dry, aromatic woodiness providing a backbone that supports the moss. The leather accord here is subtle—evoking sun-warmed skin, soft hide, or perhaps a well-loved handbag warmed by the sun. It lends structure without harshness. Ambergris, in this case likely a synthetic substitute such as Ambroxan, adds a warm, salty, animalic glow—reminiscent of skin after a swim in the sea. Tonkin musk, almost certainly represented by a modern synthetic like Galaxolide or Muscenone, brings a smooth, clean sensuality that lingers for hours, enhancing both the floral and mossy tones, while keeping the entire composition polished and radiant.

Together, these ingredients form a scent that feels like standing on a sun-warmed terrace in Cap d’Antibes, a breeze lifting the hem of your linen dress. Azurée is Mediterranean warmth captured in scent: bright, salty, herbal, floral, and quietly sensual, a perfume that moves from light into shadow with grace and intention. It speaks not just of place, but of freedom, ease, and golden femininity.

Bath & Body Products:

The Azurée line by Estée Lauder was designed as more than a single scent—it was a complete sensory ritual, extending the experience of the Mediterranean sun-drenched breeze into nearly every aspect of personal care. Each product in the range reflected a particular mood or intention: from invigorating to soothing, from practical to luxurious. Though united by the Azurée fragrance identity—a floral chypre enriched with fresh citrus, Mediterranean herbs, and a rich woody base—the products were each uniquely formulated to emphasize different facets of the scent and to serve distinct purposes in daily grooming and pampering.

The Mint Pick Up Bath was a sharp, lively start to the day—its tangy mint note, likely accented by spearmint or peppermint oils, delivered a bracing, cooling sensation in the tub, intended to refresh and energize. In contrast, the Perfumed Bath Oil was rich and indulgent, made for languorous soaks. It concentrated the perfume in an oil base, ensuring that the fragrance lingered on the skin while softening and hydrating.

Fresh Milk Bath, a silkening, foaming cleanser, echoed the age-old beauty rituals of Cleopatra—drawing on milk proteins for their softening properties. Its creamy texture combined gentle cleansing with luxury, wrapping the skin in a subtly perfumed veil. Fresh Water Bath Oil Soap blended cleansing with skincare, offering an emollient-rich lather ideal for those seeking moisture and fragrance in a single step.

Tender Creme Bath, with its birch scent, introduced a clean, lightly woody note, subtly different from the citrus-herbaceous freshness found elsewhere in the line. It offered both relaxation and light exfoliation through its oil blend. For a spa-like soak, European Mineral Bath Salts brought the therapeutic benefits of mineral-rich waters to the home, helping ease tension and soften skin, while leaving a gentle trace of the Azurée scent.

The powder products each had unique textures and application styles. Cool Spray Powder, housed in an aerosol, provided a fast-drying, refreshing application—ideal for summer or post-bath comfort. Pressed Dusting Powder, on the other hand, was an elegant, spill-proof compact form of the same scent, perfect for travel. Silken Dusting Powder was a more traditional loose formula, prized for its ability to smooth and perfume the skin with a luxurious touch.

Cologne Spray Concentrate and Perfumed Cologne were both expressions of the Azurée fragrance, but the former emphasized strength and longevity, while the latter delivered a refreshing, lighter splash for daytime wear. Parfum Boutique Spray and Parfum Purse Spray offered more concentrated and portable options for dedicated wearers—providing the richness of parfum in easy-to-use formats.

For body care, Body Satin Rub was a post-bath moisturizer that combined hydration with the therapeutic benefits of massage. It helped seal in fragrance while relaxing tense muscles. Sparkling Friction Lotion, a clear, alcohol-based splash, added a bracing coolness—a product bridging the gap between fragrance and tonic. Invigorating Bath Gel was a foaming cleanser that heightened the aromatic impact of the herbs and citrus within Azurée, while Sponge Bath Freshener, a novel portable towel soaked in lotion, allowed one to freshen up on the go—ideal for travel or after sport.

The line also saw hair care additions in 1971, expanding the sensory profile even further. The Natural Shampoo and various Rinses were tailored for specific hair types, with the one for oily hair infused with cucumber for its gentle astringency, while the one for fine to medium hair featured rosewood and sandalwood, offering both nourishment and a softly woody fragrance. The Herbal Pack Conditioner & Nourisher was a deep treatment, likely incorporating natural extracts and oils to replenish and revitalize. Hair Spray, while functional, helped maintain the scent within the hair, allowing the wearer to be subtly perfumed from head to toe.

Finally, the Azuree Sunshine Cologne Splash, introduced in 1973, captured the carefree elegance of Riviera summers. It was a lighter, more effervescent take on the original—designed to be liberally applied, evoking the joy of sun-kissed skin and wind-swept hair.

Together, the Azurée product line was more than a suite of toiletries—it was a lifestyle vision: golden, optimistic, and infused with the scent of Mediterranean warmth. Each product told a slightly different olfactory story, allowing wearers to choose how they experienced and expressed this iconic fragrance.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 2006, Estée Lauder reintroduced Azurée as part of the second release in the Tom Ford Collection, casting the original into a new light. This interpretation paid homage to the original’s Mediterranean warmth and chypre sophistication, but with an overtly sensual, modern character. It leaned into an oriental-floral chypre structure, deepening the richness, softening the sharpness, and emphasizing opulence through exotic florals and creamy textures. While the 1969 Azurée opened with brisk aldehydes and cool herbs that evoked sea air and sun-warmed earth, the 2006 version began with a more radiant warmth—orange blossom, artemisia, and sweet basil forming an unusual and intriguing contrast between solar brightness and green bitterness.

The heart of this reformulation revealed a tropical languor. Tahitian flower, likely a nod to tiare or frangipani, added a solar, creamy floralcy that paired naturally with gardenia, known for its narcotic richness and heady sweetness. A dose of coconut wove through these florals, imparting a subtle gourmand softness that added sensuality and a skin-like creaminess to the composition. This center veered away from the fresh florals of the original and toward an opulent, almost beachy lushness, making the 2006 iteration feel more enveloping and intimate.

In the base, the formula circled back to its origins with patchouli, musk, white cedar, and moss—components that anchored it firmly in the chypre family. Yet even here, there was a twist: the reintroduction of artemisia in the base added an herbal bitterness that echoed the top and gave the drydown a twist of cool restraint, balancing the lush florals above. White cedar contributed a drier, crisper woodiness than the darker oakmoss of the vintage formula, helping modernize the base and bring it in line with IFRA regulations. The musk, likely a synthetic such as galaxolide or muscone, added a soft glow to the entire composition, lending it the feel of warm, perfumed skin.

By 2010, Azurée began to undergo visible reformulations—likely due to changing restrictions on raw materials such as real oakmoss and the desire to streamline or modernize the formula. Over the years, long-time fans noted a thinning of the richness, a softening of the chypre bite, and a more subdued herbal character. The fragrance lost some of its pronounced mossy depth and leathery-earthy texture, and in turn became somewhat cleaner and more transparent.

In 2019, Estée Lauder relaunched Azurée in updated packaging—marking yet another reformulation. Though still labeled under the same name, the scent had shifted once again: the aldehydic opening was more tempered, the moss base cleaner and more abstract, and the overall profile slightly lighter and smoother. Some of the once-herbal-green and animalic facets were rounded off, leaving behind a still-recognizable, but less complex version. While this version preserved the essence of Azurée—its dry warmth, herbal accents, and elegant chypre soul—it had been tailored for contemporary tastes, regulations, and preferences, transforming it from the bold Mediterranean classic into something a touch more polite and refined.

Aramis by Estee Lauder c1963

Why did Estée Lauder choose the name Aramis? It’s a name that conjures romantic swashbucklers, noble masculinity, and a sense of classical intrigue. Taken from one of The Three Musketeers in Alexandre Dumas’ famous 1844 novel, Aramis was the refined, elegant member of the trio—religious, intellectual, and calculating. The name itself is French, pronounced AIR-uh-miss in English, though in French it’s more fluid, closer to Ah-rah-MEES. To the American ear in the 1960s, it likely sounded exotic, continental, and undeniably sophisticated.

Aramis holds a unique place in fragrance history. One of the best-selling male fragrances of all time, it surprisingly began its life as a women’s fragrance. It was launched in 1963 by Estée Lauder and was initially inspired by Cabochard (1958), a bold leather chypre for women created by the same perfumer, Bernard Chant. The DNA of Aramis—its mossy, leathery, spicy character—was rooted in Chant’s earlier creation, but adapted for a new identity.

Had it remained a women’s fragrance, Aramis would have appealed to a certain type of woman—confident, urban, and modern, unafraid to wear something strong and faintly androgynous. She would have felt a kinship with Chanel’s Cuir de Russie or the smoky, leathery chypres of the 1930s. But in 1964, just a year after its introduction, Estée Lauder made a bold pivot: Aramis was rebranded and reformulated as a men's fragrance—Lauder’s first entry into the male fragrance market.

This decision coincided with a shifting cultural landscape. The early 1960s marked the transition between the buttoned-down postwar era and the cultural explosion of the later decade. JFK had recently been assassinated. The Beatles were on the rise. Fashion was beginning to loosen up, and social norms were cracking. Men’s grooming was gaining traction as a standalone market, and Aramis was launched at the perfect moment to capitalize on this. It was marketed by Estée Lauder initially, but by 1983, it was distributed under the banner of Aramis, Inc., located at 767 Fifth Avenue in New York City—a move that further established it as a distinct entity within the Lauder brand portfolio.