In this guide, I will introduce you to the charming and somewhat obscure world of the Houpette Pli—a petite, cylindrical powder container from France, most notable for its ingenious retractable swansdown puff. The term "houpette" translates to "puff" in French, while "pli" means "fold," a reference to the puff’s unique ability to collapse and expand within the container. This clever little device was manufactured by Alexandre Willk, whose most prominent client was the renowned perfumery Molinard.
The Pli was produced in a variety of materials popular in the early 20th century, such as celluloid, bakelite, and galalith—a biodegradable plastic made from casein (milk protein). These materials were not only chosen for their lightweight, durable properties, but also for the glossy finish and range of colors they could provide, often lending the Plis a sleek, decorative appearance. The base of the container typically unscrews to allow it to be filled with loose face powder. One of the most common markings found on these pieces is: “Brevete Pli S.G.D.G. Made in France”, which indicates it was patented under French law without government guarantee—a common disclaimer seen on vintage French mechanical goods.
