SELLING VINTAGE PERFUME TIPS

Whether you're a longtime collector of antique and vintage perfumes, just beginning your collecting journey, or a seller looking to confidently list vintage fragrances for sale, this guide is for you.

With many years of experience collecting vintage perfumes and more than two decades of buying and selling them, I've learned what collectors value most and what details help a perfume sell successfully. In this guide, I'll explain the key characteristics buyers look for, how to accurately identify and describe vintage perfumes, and the essential information every seller should include in their listings. By understanding these important details, you'll be better equipped to recognize valuable perfumes, create informative listings, and inspire confidence in potential buyers.

If you are a seller, please read the following basic tips:

1. Take Excellent Photos!

High-quality photographs are one of the most important parts of a successful listing. Always photograph the actual item you are selling. Never use someone else's photos or stock images unless the perfume is brand new and unopened. Bottle shapes, labels, boxes, ownership, formulations, and packaging often changed over the years, even for the same fragrance, and these details are very important to collectors.

For commercial or colored glass perfume bottles, photograph them against a plain white background to accurately show the color of both the glass and the perfume. Clear glass bottles often photograph better against a black background; converting the image to black and white or grayscale can make molded details and cut glass stand out beautifully.

Take multiple photos from every angle, including the front, back, sides, top, stopper, base, and any decorative details. A straight-on, eye-level photo clearly shows the perfume fill level, which is important to buyers who intend to use the fragrance.

Be sure to include close-up photos of labels, molded or etched marks on the base, signatures, damage, and any baudruchage (string and wax) seals around the bottle neck. Sharp, well-lit close-ups help buyers evaluate authenticity and condition. Avoid blurry, dark, or distant photos that hide important details.

Before photographing, gently remove dust with a slightly damp paper towel or cotton swab. Be extremely careful around gilding, hand-painted decoration, enameling, paper labels, and screen-printed lettering, as these can be easily damaged or rubbed away. For advice on cleaning perfume residue from the inside of bottles, see the cleaning section later in this guide.

2. Use The Correct Terminology

While I recommend using the keyword "perfume" in your listing title for better search visibility, be accurate in your description. If your bottle is actually an Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Cologne, Esprit de Parfum, Parfum de Toilette, Eau Fraîche, or another concentration, identify it correctly.

Avoid referring to every fragrance as "perfume," especially if the label is difficult to read in your photos. Collectors consider these distinctions important, and bottles labeled Parfum or Extrait are generally the most valuable.

Quick Guide to Fragrance Concentrations:

• Parfum (Extrait, Extrait de Parfum, Parfum Classic, Extract) -The highest fragrance concentration, typically containing 20–30% perfume oils (many vintage examples contain 22–40%). It is the richest, longest-lasting form, often remaining on the skin for 7–24 hours, and is usually the most valuable.

• Eau de Parfum (Esprit de Parfum, Parfum de Toilette, Secret de Parfum, Millésime) -Contains approximately 10–15% perfume oils (many vintage examples contain 15–20%). Lasts about 4–8 hours and is more concentrated than most modern versions.

• Eau de Toilette (Toilet Water) - Contains roughly 4–10% perfume oils (many vintage examples contain 5–15%). Typically lasts around 3 hours and was intended for generous daytime use or reapplication.

• Eau de Cologne (Cologne or Aftershave) -  Contains approximately 3–5% perfume oils. A lighter fragrance designed to be splashed on liberally, usually lasting about 2 hours.

• Eau Fraîche - The lightest traditional fragrance concentration, containing about 1–3% perfume oils. Usually lasts less than an hour and is intended for frequent reapplication.

• Natural Spray - This describes the dispensing method, not the fragrance concentration. It uses a non-aerosol pump to produce a fine mist.

• Bath Oil - A scented bath product containing approximately 15% perfume oils blended with mineral oil, lanolin, or vegetable oils. It is not intended to be worn as a perfume.

3. Is the Perfume Still Sealed?

If your perfume is still sealed in its original cellophane or wrapping paper, photograph it before opening. Take clear photos of the front, back, and any labels, stickers, logos, or printed text on the outer wrapping.

For the best listing, carefully open the wrapping from the bottom of the box, preserving it whenever possible. Remove the bottle and photograph both the bottle and the box. Buyers want to see the bottle's condition, the fill level, and any signs of damage or leakage that may not be visible from the outside. A sealed box can hide cracked bottles, stained interiors, or significant evaporation.

Some evaporation is normal in vintage perfumes, especially those stored in heat or direct light. As the alcohol and water evaporate over time, the remaining perfume oils often become darker and thicker, sometimes resembling syrup or molasses. Never discard the remaining perfume, as many collectors purchase vintage bottles specifically to enjoy the original fragrance.

The cellophane itself generally does not increase a perfume's value, but it should be saved. Wrapping paper and cellophane often contain important identification labels, tax stamps, or retailer stickers, particularly on perfumes from houses such as Guerlain. Fold the wrapping carefully and store it in a plastic bag so it remains with the perfume when it is sold.

Opening the box also allows buyers to verify the bottle style. Many perfumes were sold in different bottle designs over the years, and certain versions—such as Baccarat, Lalique, or limited-edition bottles—can be significantly more valuable. Changes in bottle design may also indicate a reformulation.

Special Note: Vintage Chanel parfum bottles have been counterfeited since the 1920s. Because counterfeit boxes can closely resemble authentic ones, the bottle itself often provides the only reliable way to determine authenticity. Whenever possible, carefully lift the paper seal at the corners rather than cutting it, remove the bottle, and photograph it thoroughly.

Overview:

In short, removing the cellophane or wrapping allows you to:

• Inspect the bottle for chips, cracks, or other damage.
• Check the perfume's fill level and any evaporation.
• Look for leaks or staining inside the box or on the labels.
• Identify the bottle style and manufacturer, which can significantly affect authenticity and value

Dating a Perfume by Its Box

The outside of a perfume box can provide valuable clues to its age.

Cellophane was invented in 1908, but because it was expensive, it was rarely used on perfume packaging until the late 1930s. As a result, truly early perfumes still wrapped in original cellophane are uncommon.

The design of the box or label can also help estimate the production date. Typical styles include:

• Victorian: 1839–1901
• Edwardian: 1901–1914
• Art Nouveau: c.1900–1920s
• Art Deco: mid-1920s–1940s
• Psychedelic: late 1960s–early 1970s

Keep in mind that design styles were frequently revived. For example, Colonial Revival was popular during the late 1920s and 1930s, Victorian Revival during the 1940s, Art Nouveau in the 1960s, and Art Deco experienced a revival during the 1970s and 1980s.

The company's printed address can also be useful. If a perfume house changed locations over the years, comparing the address on the box to known company addresses can help narrow the production date.

Other packaging clues include:

• "e" (Estimated Fill) symbol: After 1976 (European packaging)
• FDA inhalation warning: Introduced in 1975
• "Hypoallergenic" claim: Generally dates from 1975 onward
• EAN barcode: After 1989
• Green Dot recycling symbol: From 1992 onward
• Period-After-Opening (open jar) symbol: Since about 2005
• "Refer to Insert" (hand/book) symbol: Common since about 2005

Ingredient lists can also provide dating clues. Older perfumes often list no ingredients at all, or simply alcohol, water, and fragrance. Beginning around 1998–2003, ingredient panels became more detailed, and by 2004 they expanded considerably. By 2010, even longer ingredient lists became common to comply with IFRA regulations.

 

image created by Grace Hummel/Cleopatra's Boudoir.

4. How old is it?

 Dating Your Perfume Bottle

Collectors want to know when a perfume was made, so always include an approximate production date in your description whenever possible. Whether your perfume dates to the 1920s, 1960s, or 1990s, this information helps buyers identify specific bottle versions, packaging styles, and fragrance formulations.

If you describe a bottle as Victorian, make sure it is a genuine antique and not a modern reproduction, such as the lightweight Pyrex-style perfume bottles currently produced in Egypt.

Dating Very Old Perfume Bottles (Usually Unlabeled)

If your bottle has no label, its construction can provide clues to its age:

• Rough pontil mark (before 1850): A rough, broken circular scar on the base where the pontil rod was detached after the bottle was hand-blown.
• Flanged lip (early 1800s): A wide, thin lip formed by hand, commonly found on bottles made during the first half of the 19th century.
• Free-blown or part-mold bottles (1800–1830): Free-blown bottles have no mold seams. Bottles made in part molds typically have seam lines only around the shoulder, with the neck finished by hand.
• Full-mold bottles (after 1820): Vertical mold seams extend from the base to the neck, while the lip was still finished by hand.
• Machine-made bottles (late 1800s onward): Mold seams continue uninterrupted from the base through the top of the lip, indicating the entire bottle was made by machine.

image created by Grace Hummel/Cleopatra's Boudoir.  .

Need Help Dating Your Perfume?

If you're unsure of your bottle's age, search my website for the perfume or manufacturer, or contact me if you can't find the information you're looking for.

If you'd like to know the age, authenticity, or current value of your perfume, you can request a professional appraisal through my Appraisal Service, with two options available to suit your needs.

When estimating a bottle's age, remember that a fragrance's introduction date only applies to its earliest bottle. Most perfumes were produced in several bottle styles over many years. To narrow down the production date, compare your bottle with dated magazine advertisements and look for clues such as bottle design, company addresses, ZIP codes (introduced in 1963), and packaging details.

As vintage perfumes age, they often darken and become thicker as the alcohol and water gradually evaporate, leaving behind a more concentrated blend of fragrance oils.

Vintage advertisements are one of the best dating tools. Because they are usually dated, they allow you to compare your bottle and packaging to what was available during a specific period.

Additional Clues for Dating Perfume Bottles

For a more detailed breakdown, see my Guide to Dating Your Perfume Bottle.

• "Made in Occupied Japan" indicates the bottle was made between September 1945 and April 1952.

• Screen-printed (serigraphed) lettering on glass became common after the 1930s, especially from the 1940s onward. This decoration is fragile and can be easily removed by cleaning.

• Patent numbers (common during the 1930s and 1940s) and British Registered Design numbers can often be researched online to help date a bottle.

• Matching etched numbers on the bottle base and stopper were used to pair hand-ground stoppers with their original bottles. These are commonly found on French crystal bottles, including Baccarat, but were used by other manufacturers as well.

• Country of origin may be molded, acid-etched, stamped, or shown on a label. "Made in France" is commonly found on French bottles, while many American bottles are unmarked.

• "Dram" bottles were especially popular during the late 1930s and 1940s. Holding about 1/8 ounce (5 ml), these purse-sized bottles were an affordable way to purchase perfume during the Depression and World War II. Decorative Czech dram bottles are particularly collectible.

• Embossed mold numbers, patent numbers, or bottle shape numbers are often found on bottles from the 1930s and 1940s.

• Batch codes began appearing around 1970, usually stamped or printed on the bottle or label. Later, many luxury brands engraved the codes directly into the glass. Because batch codes are often reused every ten years, they should always be considered alongside other dating clues.

5. Who Made the Perfume? Who Made the Bottle?

Always identify both the perfume house and, if known, the glass manufacturer. Buyers often search for a specific perfume house or bottle maker, and many fragrances share the same name. For example, Coty Emeraude and Guerlain Shalimar should always be identified by their manufacturer. Likewise, Chanel No. 5 and Molyneux No. 5 are completely different perfumes.

Check the base of the bottle for the glassmaker's mark. Bottles made by prestigious manufacturers such as Baccarat, Lalique, Cristal Nancy, and Cristal Romesnil are often more desirable and valuable.

Some common glassmakers include:

• Gaillard, J. Viard, or J. Villard: French Art Nouveau and Art Deco bottle designers active from the early 1900s through the 1920s.
• Lalique: Early bottles are signed R. Lalique or René Lalique (before 1945). Later examples are marked Lalique France. Be aware that fake Lalique signatures are common, particularly on Czech perfume bottles.
• HP: Made by Pochet et du Courval (France), generally after 1930.
• S or SGD: Made by Saint-Gobain Desjonquères (France), generally after the 1950s.
• VB or BR: Made by Verreries Brosse (France), generally after the 1920s.

Also note any country-of-origin markings, such as Made in France, Made in England, or Made in USA, as these can help authenticate and date the bottle.

 

6. Is It a Spray or a Splash Bottle?

Always describe how the perfume is dispensed, as many collectors search for specific bottle types.

Atomizers (Spray Bottles)

An atomizer sprays perfume using either a squeeze bulb or a metal plunger. Missing rubber bulbs and cords are common on older atomizers because the rubber naturally deteriorates over time. This generally does not reduce the value, as replacement bulbs and cords are readily available.

Look for signatures, labels, or markings on the base, hang tags, or original box. Collectible atomizer makers include DeVilbiss, Volupte, Aristo, Mignon, Irice, Apollo, Holmspray, Pyramid, and Marcel Franck. Also mention any marks such as Baccarat, Lalique, Czecho-Slovakia, or Made in France.

Splash Bottles

If the bottle has a stopper, note whether it includes its original dauber (glass dipper). If the dauber is broken or missing, mention it and include a close-up photograph.

Older perfumes were often factory sealed with parchment, kid leather, gelatin, or similar membranes and secured with decorative string or wire known as baudruchage. Even sealed bottles may show evaporation over time, which is normal.

Dating Stoppers and Caps

• Peg stoppers (glass dowels into cork): 1870s–1920s, especially on American bottles.
• Bakelite screw caps: 1920s–1950s (some Lanvin bottles into the 1960s).
• Gold-tone metal screw caps: 1920s onward.
• Lucite caps: 1930s onward; older examples often yellow, crack, or absorb perfume.
• Gold-tone plastic screw caps: After the 1940s.
• Plastic-covered ground-glass stoppers ("Plastimeri"): Introduced in 1970 by Saint-Gobain Desjonquères.

7. Condition

Be honest and thorough when describing your bottle's condition. Buyers appreciate full disclosure, and it helps avoid returns and disappointed customers.

Inspect the bottle carefully for chips, cracks, scratches, flea bites, stains, residue, worn gilding or enameling, damaged labels, and repairs. Pay close attention to the bottle rim, base, stopper, and any sharp corners, as these are common places for damage. If the dauber is broken or missing, mention it.

If the stopper is frozen in place, do not force it open. Attempting to remove it can crack the neck or break the stopper, permanently reducing the bottle's value. Simply note that the stopper is stuck.

If an atomizer has a replacement bulb or cord, disclose this. Likewise, mention if the stopper is not original, has been replaced, or if the bottle or box has been repaired or restored.

Finally, let buyers know how noticeable any damage is when the bottle is displayed, as this can greatly affect desirability and value.

8. Size

Always include the bottle's height and width, as photos can make an item appear much larger or smaller than it really is. If selling a boxed set, include the box dimensions as well.

State whether the bottle is a miniature, micro-mini (under 1 inch tall), regular size, or a factice (display bottle) filled with colored liquid rather than perfume.

If the colors in your photos are inaccurate due to lighting, describe the true color of the glass, label, or box in your listing.

Avoid using a ruler in your photos, as it distracts from the presentation and is often difficult to read. Instead, include the measurements in the item description.

9. Does It Have a Label?

The label is one of the most important parts of a vintage perfume bottle and can significantly affect its value. Describe its condition honestly, noting any fading, wear, smudging, tears, peeling, staining, missing areas, or discoloration. Also mention whether it is paper, gold or silver foil, metal, or if the bottle has screen-printed (enameled) lettering instead of a label.

Take clear close-up photos so buyers can read the label. If glare makes it difficult to read, describe the text and condition in your listing. Be especially careful when cleaning bottles with screen-printed lettering, as it can be easily rubbed off.

Always inspect every side of the bottle. Labels may be visible through the back of the glass, and some have dates or other markings printed on the reverse. Sample bottles from the 1950s onward are often marked "Sample - Not for Sale," while modern examples usually say "Tester." Display (factice) bottles may be labeled "Dummy" or "Not for Sale." Chanel bottles from the 1960s onward should have a copyright symbol and CC logo on the back label.

Labels can also help date a bottle:

• Revenue stamps: Early 1900s imported perfumes.
• "Returning this bottle to the perfumer is a national duty": 1940–1945 (World War II).
• "Created," "Compounded," or "Assembled in France/USA": Usually 1950s onward.
• Clear ingredient or contents labels: Common from the 1950s.
• SDA (Specially Denatured Alcohol): Typically 1940s–1950s.
• Alcohol percentage (80°, 90°, etc.): Usually after the 1950s.
• ZIP Code: 1963 onward.

Finally, remember that the style of a label or box can also provide dating clues, although design revivals mean this should never be the only factor considered.

 

Grading Perfume Bottle Labels

The condition of a label can have a major impact on value, especially for antique commercial perfume bottles. In many cases, a missing label can reduce the value by 50–75%, although the exact impact depends on the bottle. Bottles with distinctive shapes, such as many Prince Matchabelli examples, rely less on their labels, while simpler bottles, such as many Lanvin designs, depend heavily on them for identification and desirability.

Use the following guide to describe label condition:

Grade = Estimated    Label Value    Description

• Mint = 100% Like new. Clean, centered, and free of defects.
• Nearly Mint = 95% One very minor flaw, such as a tiny scratch, stain, or crease.
• Excellent = 75–90% Light wear, but all lettering is clear and complete. Minor curling or slight color loss may be present.
• Very Good = 50–70% Moderate wear. Most lettering is readable, though some color loss, stains, or creases are present.
• Good = 30–40% Heavy wear. About half of the lettering remains readable, or the fragrance or maker can still be identified. Small pieces of the label may be missing.
• Fair = 10–20% Only part of the label remains, or it is largely illegible, but its original size and shape can still be determined.
• Poor = 5% More than half the label is missing or worn to bare paper, with little or no readable text remaining.
• No Label = 0% Label is completely missing.

image created by Grace Hummel/Cleopatra's Boudoir. Labels used are not original, but are being presented as easy to read examples showing of stages of wear.

Remember that a bottle's overall value is determined by both the condition of the glass and the condition of the label, with their relative importance depending on the rarity and desirability of the bottle.

10. Does It Have a stopper?

Always describe the bottle's closure. Use the correct term: a stopper fits inside the bottle, while a cap fits over the outside, usually with threads. Some French crystal bottles also have an inner stopper with an overcap.

If the bottle has a ground glass stopper, check that it is original. Many fine French crystal bottles have matching numbers etched on both the stopper and bottle base, indicating they were hand-ground to fit together. Mention whether the numbers match and whether the stopper fits tightly.

If the stopper has a plastic-covered base (plastimeri), note this in your listing. Plastimeri stoppers date to after 1970 and can help determine the bottle's age.

If the closure is not glass, identify the material, such as metal, Bakelite, Lucite, celluloid, plastic, wood, or cork. Also mention whether it is a screw cap.

If the stopper is stuck, disclose this and do not force it open, as doing so can crack the bottle or break the stopper.

Finally, describe the stopper even if it is shown in photos. Buyers often cannot tell from photographs whether it is ground glass, cork-mounted, plastimeri, or fitted with a dauber.

11. What's inside?

Does the bottle still contain its original perfume ("juice")? If so, estimate the amount remaining (for example, 20% full) and include a photo showing the fill level. Even a small amount of original perfume can add value, and many collectors prefer bottles with their original contents.

Do NOT pour out the perfume unless your buyer specifically requests it. Likewise, do NOT open a factory-sealed bottle. Vintage seals made of natural membrane, gelatin, or viscose, often secured with baudruchage (silk cord or metal wire), add to a bottle's desirability. If a sealed bottle appears partially empty, this is usually the result of natural evaporation over time.

If the perfume is more than 7–10 years old, mention this in your listing, as the fragrance may have changed with age. Store bottles in their original boxes and away from heat and light to help preserve the contents.

Perfume Residue

Residue inside a bottle is normal and should usually be left alone. Avoid soaking bottles, as this can damage paper labels, gilding, enameling, or metal fittings. Perfume historians often value residue because it may preserve clues about long-discontinued fragrances.

If cleaning is absolutely necessary, do so only on undecorated bottles. A mixture of warm water and a cleaning solution with small glass seed beads can help loosen residue without scratching the glass. Rinse thoroughly and use a small amount of vodka as a final rinse to promote spot-free drying.

Cloudy or Milky Perfume

If the contents appear cloudy or milky, they may have been diluted with water. This reaction, known as louche, can permanently damage the perfume. Always disclose this in your listing and, if requested, give the buyer the option of shipping the bottle with or without the contents. Do not add water to any perfume, it ruins it.

Can You Guarantee the Contents?

Always state that you cannot guarantee the condition or scent of the perfume. As fragrances age—often after 3–10 years—they gradually lose their freshness. Some may smell predominantly of alcohol, while others can develop sour, pungent, or celery-like odors, indicating the perfume has turned. Certain ingredients deteriorate more quickly than others, so older perfumes may smell very different from when they were new.

Storage conditions also play a major role. Perfumes kept in a cool, dark place generally age better than those exposed to heat or sunlight. However, because many vintage perfumes are acquired secondhand—from estate sales, auctions, thrift stores, flea markets, or private collections—you usually cannot verify how they were stored before you acquired them.

If you notice that a perfume has turned, has sour top notes, or otherwise smells off, disclose this in your listing. Honest descriptions help buyers make informed decisions and avoid disappointment.

12.  Does It Have the Original Box or Paperwork?

The original box can significantly increase the value of a vintage perfume, especially if it is in excellent condition. Describe the box's condition honestly and include photos of the front, back, and any interesting details.

Also mention any original paperwork, brochures, inserts, hang tags, or other accessories that are included, as collectors value complete presentations.

For your main listing photo, consider placing the bottle beside its box. This immediately shows buyers exactly what is included and creates a more attractive presentation.

13.  Was the Bottle Made by a Famous Glassmaker?

Bottles made by renowned glassmakers are often worth significantly more. Check the base for signatures or factory marks and include clear close-up photos in your listing.

Highly collectible makers include Lalique, Baccarat, Julien Viard, Moser, St. Louis, Val St. Lambert, Steuben, Tiffany, Daum Nancy, Gallé, DeVilbiss, Cristal Nancy, Cristal Romesnil, Pochet et du Courval, Saint-Gobain Desjonquères, and Verreries Brosse.


Some useful dating clues include:

• Cristal Nancy: Factory closed in 1934.
• Baccarat: Bottles were routinely engraved beginning in 1936; earlier examples may be acid-etched, stamped, paper labeled, or unmarked.
• Lalique: Early bottles are signed R. Lalique; later examples starting in 1945 are marked Lalique France. The signature style can help date the bottle.
• HP: Pochet et du Courval, after 1930.
• S or SGD: Saint-Gobain Desjonquères, generally after the 1950s.
• VB or BR: Verreries Brosse, generally after the 1920s.

Also note the country of origin, such as France, England, Germany, Japan, or Czecho-Slovakia, as this can affect both dating and value.

If you suspect a bottle is Czech but the mark is difficult to read, gently rub the base with a soft cotton cloth for a few seconds, then breathe warm air onto the glass. A faint "Czecho-Slovakia" mark may briefly become visible.

14. Is Your Bottle Featured in a Reference Book?

If your perfume bottle appears in a reference book, include the book title, author, page number, and any published value. While book values are only estimates—often based on past auction results—they provide buyers with a useful point of reference and can help identify bottles that have lost their labels or other identifying marks.

Keep in mind that some older reference books contain attribution errors, particularly regarding glassmakers such as Lalique. Whenever possible, verify information using multiple reliable sources.

For René Lalique bottles, one of the best references is the independent website RLalique.com, which includes authentic signatures, model identification, dating information, and examples of known reproductions and fakes.

15.  Is It a Factice (Display Bottle)?

A factice is a display bottle supplied by a perfume house to retailers for advertising and was not intended for retail sale. Most are exact replicas of the regular perfume bottle and were designed to be returned to the manufacturer after use.

Factices were produced in many sizes, from standard retail size to oversized giant factices created for store displays. Older examples were typically made of glass or crystal, while newer ones are often plastic or acrylic.

Look for markings such as "Dummy," "Factice," or an engraved "D" on the base. Modern examples may have labels reading "For Display Purposes Only" or "Not for Resale."

How to Determine If Your Bottle is a Factice?

 

Packing and Shipping

What is the best way to pack and ship your bottle? Packing and shipping perfume bottles can be tricky, but I have provided some tips below to help you.


Packing & Shipping Vintage Perfumes


Proper packing helps prevent broken bottles, damaged boxes, and perfume leaks. Always use sturdy packing materials and insure valuable shipments.


Empty Bottles

• Wrap the stopper separately from the bottle to prevent breakage.
• Wrap the bottle generously with bubble wrap.
• Fill empty spaces with packing peanuts or crumpled kraft paper so nothing shifts during shipping.
• Do not use newspaper as your primary cushioning—it provides poor protection.
• Insure the package, use tracking, and consider signature confirmation for expensive items.

Bottles Containing Perfume

• If the bottle has a loose ground-glass or cork stopper, consider decanting the perfume into a small glass vial for shipping to prevent leaks that can damage labels and boxes. Place both the bottle and vial in separate plastic bags.

• If you leave the perfume in the bottle, wipe the neck clean and secure the stopper with a small piece of electrical tape. Protect labels by placing a piece of paper between the tape and the bottle if necessary.

• Wrap the bottle and box separately, placing each in its own plastic bag before bubble wrapping.

Miniature Bottles


Tighten the cap, secure it with tape if needed, place the bottle in a plastic bag, then wrap it in bubble wrap. If the miniature has its original box, wrap the box separately.


Commercial Spray Bottles


For spray bottles (Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Cologne, etc.), replace the cap securely, place the bottle in a plastic bag, and wrap it with bubble wrap. Wrap the original box separately to protect it from leaks.


Shipping Tips

• Use a sturdy box with enough room for cushioning.
• Prevent movement inside the box.
• Double-box valuable or fragile bottles if possible.
• Always ship with tracking and insurance. The seller is responsible for ensuring the perfume arrives safely.

For more creative packing & shipping ideas, visit this website: https://glassandpotterysellers.org/packaging_tips.html