Brigand by Jacques Esterel was launched in 1966 in France and introduced to the U.S. market in 1967. The choice of the name Brigand is intriguing and speaks to a sense of rebellious charm. In French, brigand translates to "bandit" or "outlaw" and is pronounced bree-GON. The word evokes imagery of daring adventurers, boldness, and a hint of danger. A brigand is often depicted as a romanticized rogue—fearless, elusive, and untamed. The choice of this name for a women's fragrance suggests an alluring and provocative scent, aimed at those who embrace a free-spirited and daring lifestyle.
In scent, Brigand would reflect its name by being both untamed and captivating, offering a mix of complexity and intrigue. Classified as a spicy, woody chypre fragrance, it carries an animalic base wrapped in sweet floral notes, making it both seductive and youthful. The chypre family, known for its mossy, earthy qualities, combined with animalic undertones, creates an aura of mystery, while the sweet floral heart introduces softness, balancing the fierceness with femininity. This combination makes Brigand a fragrance for young women who wanted to express boldness and independence, much like the brigand figure it evokes.
During the mid-1960s, the world of perfume was marked by innovation and change. Fragrances during this period were becoming bolder, reflecting shifts in societal attitudes. Women were gaining more independence, and their choices in fashion and fragrance often echoed this newfound freedom. Brigand stood out as a unique entry in the market, blending the spicy, woody, and animalic notes often reserved for men's colognes with a feminine floral softness. While chypre fragrances were already popular, Brigand added an animalic depth that gave it a sensual and daring edge. The fragrance's youthful, rebellious spirit aligned with the cultural shifts of the 1960s, appealing to women who wanted to break away from traditional norms.
Jacques Esterel, a designer known for his innovative and modern approach to fashion, founded Société Anonyme des Parfums Jacques Esterel in October 1966. While the company was new and lacked a long history, Esterel had already made a name for himself in the fashion world. His designs reflected the vibrant, avant-garde trends of the 1960s, and his move into perfumery was a natural extension of his brand’s ethos. Brigand, launched at the very birth of his perfume house, quickly garnered success, resonating with the youthful, modern audience he aimed to reach. The head office of Parfums Jacques Estérel was located at 9 Avenue de l'Opera in Paris, a prestigious address, while the factory operated in Bois-Colombes, a suburb known for its industrial facilities.Brigand was perfectly suited to the time period—a decade that saw the rise of women's liberation, daring fashion, and a shift toward individualism. It embodied the adventurous spirit of the 1960s, offering a scent for women unafraid to embrace their inner boldness.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Brigand by Jacques Esterel is classified as a spicy, woody, chypre fragrance for women. Its animalic base is enveloped in a sweet floral note. A youthful fragrance for young people.
- Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Grasse neroli, Chilean plum, Malabar black pepper, green notes accord, Chinese quince, Brazilian banana
- Middle notes: Spanish rosemary, Indian carnation, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Grasse jasmine, Bulgarian rose
- Base notes: Virginian blonde tobacco, Indonesian patchouli, leather, Mysore sandalwood, Haitian vetiver, Omani frankincense, Tonkin musk, Arabian civet, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Maltese labdanum, Sumatran styrax
Scent Profile:
Brigand by Jacques Esterel unfurls like a richly embroidered tapestry of scent—opulent, mischievous, and charged with youthful daring. Though classified as a women's fragrance, Brigand defies traditional femininity; it is a spicy, animalic chypre that roams freely through contrasting terrains of wild florals, tropical fruit, dark resins, and feral musk. Each note in its complex pyramid feels like a character in a theatrical ensemble—no role is minor, and every molecule has its moment on the skin.
The top notes leap forward with a flash of Calabrian bergamot, sharp and luminous, its essential oil cold-pressed from sun-soaked fruit grown in the toe of Italy’s boot. Bergamot from this region is considered the finest—cleaner and more floral than other citruses, with an effervescent quality that casts an immediate shimmer. It merges with Grasse neroli, distilled from the bitter orange blossoms cultivated in Provence. This neroli is creamier, rounder than its North African cousins, adding a dewy-white floral nuance that softens the bergamot’s crisp edge. Then, a surprising twist: the tartness of Chilean plum and the starchy sweetness of Brazilian banana add a tropical facet. These fruits aren’t syrupy—rather, they’re softened by an abstract green notes accord, likely built from synthetic aldehydes and galbanum-like materials. Their role is to suggest fresh-cut stems and crushed leaves, introducing tension against the sweetness.
One of the most fascinating top notes is Chinese quince, a fruit whose fragrance is both floral and spicy, with an almost apple-pear brightness. Its inclusion adds texture—delicate but unmistakable. And cutting through all of this brightness is the bite of Malabar black pepper from India. Unlike generic pepper, this one is hotter and more aromatic, owing to its high piperine content and essential oils. It lifts the fruity notes, preventing the opening from becoming too lush, and instead adds flickers of heat—almost like sparks flying off a flame.
The heart of Brigand is a heady floral symphony veiled in herbal spice. Spanish rosemary introduces a sharp, aromatic greenness—an olfactory bridge between the green top and spiced floral heart. Indian carnation lends a spicy clove-like nuance, its eugenol content enhancing the pepper and rosemary, keeping the scent lively and electric. Then comes Nossi-Bé ylang ylang, grown on this tiny island off Madagascar’s coast, renowned for its quality—richer, more narcotic than ylang from other regions, with banana custard sweetness and tropical, leathery undertones. It harmonizes beautifully with Grasse jasmine, prized for its creamy, indolic depth, which lends sensuality. These two exotic florals are anchored by the lushness of Bulgarian rose, whose deep red petals yield an oil that is more honeyed and jammy than the Turkish variety. Its romantic sweep adds body and femininity, but within the spicy context, it reads more untamed than delicate.
Then Brigand dives into its densely animalic, resinous base—a composition so rich, it practically hums on the skin. Virginian blonde tobacco, cured and smooth, gives off a faintly honeyed, hay-like dryness. This blends into Indonesian patchouli, with its earthy, slightly camphoraceous darkness. Patchouli from this region is dense and tenacious, providing an inky richness that contrasts beautifully with the milky softness of Mysore sandalwood. At the time this perfume was likely formulated, Mysore sandalwood still referred to the precious Santalum album species native to southern India—creamy, warm, slightly smoky, and revered for its fixative power and subtle sacredness.
Haitian vetiver, grassy and dry, contributes an earthy backbone but with a light, smoky lift—distinct from the more damp and rooty Javanese kind. Omani frankincense, harvested from the cliffs of Dhofar, adds a bright, citrusy resinousness that evokes ancient incense rituals; its luminous smoke cuts through the density, keeping the base from becoming cloying. Maltese labdanum, sticky and amber-rich, imparts a leathery warmth that echoes the real leather accord, which is likely augmented by synthetic isobutyl quinoline for its mossy, tarred green character. Sumatran styrax, rich in cinnamic resins, adds balsamic sweetness with a whisper of burnt sugar and tar.
Finally, the most primal notes remain. Arabian civet and Tonkin musk, now banned in modern perfumery and often replaced by synthetics, lend the base a purring animal heat. They suggest skin, breath, and the most intimate closeness. These were likely recreated with nitromusks or macrocyclic musks—materials such as muscone or galaxolide—which not only mimic their scent but amplify the floral and woody notes, extending them like the last glow of embers. Yugoslavian oakmoss, verdant and damp, roots the entire composition in the forest floor, offering that unmistakable chypre finish—shadowy, moist, ancient.
Brigand is not a linear fragrance. It moves, transforms, and lingers like a story told in chapters: citrus-bright mischief, spiced floral seduction, and a resin-soaked animalic denouement. It’s not for the fainthearted—but then again, a scent called Brigand was never meant to behave.
Product Line:
The Brigand fragrance line by Jacques Esterel offered two main concentrations: parfum and parfum de toilette. The parfum was the most concentrated version, providing a rich and intense experience of the fragrance, ideal for those who wanted a long-lasting and more luxurious scent. It captured the full complexity of Brigand’s spicy, woody chypre composition, with its animalic base and floral heart, making it an indulgent choice for evening wear or special occasions.
The parfum de toilette (equivalent to the modern eau de parfum concentration) was a lighter, yet still potent version of the fragrance. This concentration was more suited for everyday wear, offering a slightly more subtle interpretation of the scent while retaining its bold and rebellious character. The parfum de toilette allowed for easier application and layering without overwhelming the senses, making it a versatile choice for women who wanted to embody Brigand's daring spirit throughout the day. Both options in the product line allowed women to choose their preferred level of intensity, ensuring that Brigand could be worn in various settings and occasions.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown.