Porcelain & Silver Plate Vanity Sets Catalog Page c1907

Images shown in an advertisement from a 1907 Fort Dearborn Watch & Clock Co. Catalog, Chicago, Il.

Antique Ebony and Sterling Vanity Sets c1907

In the late Victorian era through the early 20th century, ebony vanity sets were regarded as the height of refinement, prized by both men and women for their durability, sleek appearance, and association with elegance. Ebony is a dense, fine-grained hardwood known for its rich, lustrous black color, often with subtle streaks of dark brown. It has long been admired for its smooth finish, natural weight, and ability to polish to a mirror-like sheen. Historically, ebony was sourced from tropical regions, most notably from India, Ceylon (modern-day Sri Lanka), Madagascar, and West Africa. Each region produced slightly different varieties, but all were valued for their hardness and deep coloration. Ebony was rare and costly, making it a luxury material reserved for fine furnishings, musical instruments, and, in this case, the personal grooming implements of the fashionable classes.

The vanity sets of this period often combined imported ebony with sterling silver mountings, the latter crafted in the United States. The silver fittings were typically monogrammed, allowing them to serve as both functional and personalized objects. These embellishments added an additional layer of refinement and status, aligning with the Victorian and Edwardian taste for items that reflected individuality and genteel living. Ebony’s natural darkness provided a striking contrast to the gleam of polished silver, a pairing that made even utilitarian objects feel like luxury possessions.

The range of objects produced was extensive, reflecting both practical needs and social rituals surrounding grooming. Hand mirrors, hair brushes, and combs formed the foundation of many sets, while more specialized tools such as military brushes, nail buffers, cuticle knives, curling irons, and bonnet brushes extended their use to highly specific functions. Ebony-mounted powder jars, hatpin holders, salve jars, and sewing implements further illustrate how these sets were intended not only for personal care but also for order and beauty in one’s dressing table or travel kit. Men’s versions were equally popular, including toothbrushes, sock darners, and curved hat brushes.

Advertisements, such as those found in the 1907 Fort Dearborn Watch & Clock Co. Catalog of Chicago, showcase the appeal and breadth of these ebony and silver-mounted sets. These images highlight how the vanity set was both a practical collection of grooming tools and a display of refinement, an outward reflection of the user’s taste and social position. Ebony, with its exotic origins and timeless beauty, lent an air of luxury and permanence that elevated even the simplest of daily rituals.

Celluloid Toilet Sets Advertising Catalog Page c1894

In the late 19th century, vanity and dresser sets were often made from new and fashionable materials that captured the imagination of consumers eager for modernity. The 1893/1894 Marshall Field’s catalog featured examples in celluloid, zylonite (xylonite), and “Florence” composition, each offering its own distinct qualities of beauty and practicality. These materials allowed for elaborate molded designs, often decorated with scrolls, floral motifs, or Japanese-inspired patterns that reflected the Aesthetic Movement’s fascination with exoticism and natural forms. The result was an affordable yet stylish alternative to ivory or tortoiseshell, making such sets attainable for a broader audience while still conveying refinement.

Celluloid, first patented in the 1860s, was one of the earliest synthetic plastics. Made from nitrocellulose and camphor, it was hailed as a “miracle material” for its ability to mimic the appearance of costly natural substances such as ivory, coral, or mother-of-pearl. Lightweight, moldable, and capable of being tinted in many shades, celluloid quickly became a favorite for vanity items, jewelry, and decorative goods. Its drawback, however, was flammability—celluloid was notoriously unstable when exposed to heat or flame. Despite this, it was widely popular, particularly in pale ivory shades that imitated expensive tusk ivory.

Zylonite (also spelled xylonite) was a closely related material, essentially another trade name for early celluloid, developed in Britain around the same time. Like celluloid, it was derived from nitrocellulose and camphor, but it was marketed under different brand names by competing companies. In catalogs such as Marshall Field’s, zylonite was often used interchangeably with celluloid to describe molded dresser sets, combs, brushes, and mirrors. Its smooth surface and durability made it especially suited for everyday grooming tools, while still retaining the elegant look of ivory or carved bone.

“Florence” composition (sometimes called White Florence) referred to a molded composition material designed specifically to replicate ivory at a lower cost. Unlike celluloid and zylonite, which were true plastics, Florence was a composite material, likely a mixture of ground minerals, resins, and binders pressed into molds. It had a softer, chalky appearance compared to the glossy surface of celluloid, and was often left in creamy white finishes that mimicked polished ivory. Florence composition could be elaborately molded into ornate Aesthetic patterns, including Japanese-inspired motifs such as fans, birds, and stylized florals. Its affordability made it appealing to households seeking fashionable dressing sets without the expense of true ivory or sterling silver mountings.

Together, these materials signaled a turning point in consumer goods: the embrace of synthetic and composite materials that allowed middle-class buyers access to luxury-inspired products. The molded vanity sets from Marshall Field’s catalog not only highlight the technological ingenuity of the era but also reflect the aesthetic tastes of the 1890s—where exoticism, refinement, and affordability intersected in the intimate objects of the dressing table.

images: ebay seller mima48