Ondine was launched in 1954 by Suzanne Thierry of Paris, and its name was chosen with unmistakable cultural sensitivity. Ondine refers to a water nymph, a mythic female spirit associated with springs, rivers, and lakes in European folklore. The word comes from French, derived from onde meaning “wave.” Pronounced simply as "on-DEEN" (to rhyme with “serene”), the name carries an immediate sense of fluidity, grace, and otherworldly femininity. It evokes images of shimmering water, pale skin touched by light, movement rather than weight—an enchantment that is cool, elusive, and quietly sensual rather than overtly dramatic.
The name also resonated powerfully with contemporary culture. In 1954, Ondine was the title of a Broadway play that captivated audiences, starring the young ingenue Audrey Hepburn in the title role. Hepburn embodied a new feminine ideal—delicate yet intelligent, modern yet poetic—and Suzanne Thierry’s choice of name aligned the perfume with this emerging archetype. Whether inspired directly by the play or by the myth itself, Ondine suggested a woman who was refined, ethereal, and quietly magnetic, mirroring Hepburn’s public image at the very moment she was becoming an international symbol of modern elegance.
The perfume emerged during the postwar era, a period often referred to as the Golden Age of Haute Couture and Classical Perfumery. By the mid-1950s, Europe was moving beyond wartime austerity into renewed optimism and sophistication. Fashion was dominated by Dior’s New Look: cinched waists, full skirts, immaculate tailoring, gloves, hats, and an emphasis on polished femininity. Perfumery followed suit, favoring complex, impeccably structured compositions that conveyed luxury, order, and refinement. Aldehydic florals with chypre or oriental bases were especially prized for their ability to feel both abstract and glamorous—clean yet sensual, modern yet anchored in tradition.
Women of the time would have related to a perfume called Ondine as an expression of graceful modern womanhood. It suggested independence and fantasy without rebellion, sensuality without excess. Unlike overtly animalic or heavily oriental fragrances, Ondine promised lightness, movement, and elegance—qualities that aligned with the aspirational femininity of the era. It would have appealed to women who saw themselves as poised, cultured, and subtly alluring, rather than theatrical or flamboyant.
Interpreted in scent, the name Ondine translates beautifully into its classification as an aldehydic floral chypre–oriental. The aldehydes create a sensation of air and sparkle, like light reflecting off water. The expansive floral bouquet suggests petals drifting rather than blooming heavily, while the chypre–oriental base—moss, woods, resins, and soft animalics—anchors the composition with depth and quiet warmth, much like water concealing hidden currents beneath a calm surface. The result is a perfume that feels fluid, dry, and luminous rather than sweet or dense.
In the context of the 1950s market, Ondine was not radical, but it was highly refined. It aligned with prevailing trends established by landmark aldehydic florals and floral chypres of the preceding decades, yet distinguished itself through its emphasis on dryness, lightness, and poetic restraint. Rather than competing on boldness, Ondine offered nuance and elegance—an ideal reflection of mid-century Parisian taste and a perfume perfectly attuned to its cultural moment.
The Beginning:
While still a small child in her home in Orléans, France, Suzanne Thierry recalled being irresistibly drawn to the perfume bottles arranged on her stepmother’s dressing table. Their shapes, colors, and quiet promise of transformation sparked an early fascination that would define her life. It was during those formative moments that she first imagined creating a fragrance of her own. As she later reflected, "When I was little, I wanted to do just two things," she said. "To have a perfume shop of my own and to come to America." Those childhood dreams—at once intimate and ambitious—would remain guiding stars throughout her career.
Thierry went on to study chemistry at university, though she never trained as a professional chemist. Her path into perfumery came instead through retail and observation rather than formal laboratory work. She initially envisioned a career in teaching, but history intervened. "I had always wanted to be a[n English] teacher, or to sell perfume...the war interrupted my teaching plans, and just after it was over, I opened my own perfume shop. It was difficult then to find a place, and to obtain a license, but eventually I got started." Her words reveal both resilience and adaptability, qualities that would later define her success as an independent perfumer.
The immediate postwar years were especially challenging. In 1946, retail space in Paris was scarce, and perfume itself was nearly unobtainable due to lingering wartime restrictions. Thierry finally succeeded in securing both a shop and a license, only to discover that her troubles were far from over. "But then I had no perfume and no customers," she admitted candidly. Time, however, proved to be her ally. Gradually, supply returned and clientele grew, and she became the proud owner and manager of a small boutique at 5 rue Molière, near the Opéra. Many of her customers were Americans, several of whom became close friends, and through them her second childhood dream—America—began to take shape.
By 1964, Thierry spoke openly about her ambitions beyond Paris. "There are no shops of that kind in the United States. I wanted to create a new perfume, partly that is the way to make money, and partly because I was fascinated with the idea." Her fascination was not merely commercial; it was rooted in curiosity, experimentation, and a desire to offer something personal and distinctive in a market dominated by large houses and established names.
When asked why she felt compelled to create her own fragrance when her boutique already carried many world-famous lines, Thierry pointed to years of careful observation. "After studying people's reactions for several years, I decided to create a perfume of my own. Well, I noticed," she explained, "that men bought more perfume than women, Men appreciate perfume more than women do. And they would buy several bottles. One kind for a blonde and another for a brunette." This notion—common in the first half of the twentieth century—was a widely used marketing strategy, playing on fantasy and differentiation. Thierry recalled it with gentle humor: "Then when they got home they forgot which was for which," she said, "with a wink in her eye."
Despite widespread skepticism, Thierry pressed forward. Friends and colleagues warned her that introducing yet another new perfume into an already crowded market was folly. She ignored them. "Most perfumes are created by men. I wanted to find the perfect feminine scent that's different on every woman, yet beautiful on them all." In that statement lies the essence of Suzanne Thierry’s philosophy: perfume as an intimate, evolving dialogue between scent and wearer, shaped by individuality rather than conformity, and guided by a distinctly feminine vision.
Composing the Scent:
Having resolved to create a fragrance of her own, Suzanne Thierry approached the task with both intuition and discipline. She purchased a supply of raw materials and retained a chemist as a consultant, then began an extended period of experimentation. The process was painstaking and deeply personal. It took nearly three years and thousands of trials—drawn from what she described as combinations of some 5,000 oils—before she arrived at a result that truly satisfied her. "I bought some oils and began to experiment, trying to create a perfume that would be good for everyone – something not sophisticated, but very natural," she explained, emphasizing accessibility over excess.
For Thierry, creation began long before anything was measured or blended. "I carried the smell of my perfume in my nose for at least a year before I actually began to blend with the help of a chemist," she recalled. During that time, the idea of the fragrance evolved almost subconsciously. "All the while, I was making subtle changes in it. Sometimes I was not even aware of these changes myself." Once the technical work began, the process became an exercise in patience—for both creator and consultant. "It took two years, and I know the chemist must have wanted to slay me more than once," she admitted with characteristic humor. "I'd sniff, then decided we needed a little more of one ingredient and a little less of another… then I'd sniff again, and decide what we had wasn't right, and we'd start over!"
The breakthrough came not through analysis, but recognition. "I didn't know exactly what I wanted, until I smelled this blend," she said. "It was like looking for a painting. But the final result was exactly what I was seeking. Suddenly, I said, 'This is it. I love it!'" Though the formula remained a closely guarded company secret, Thierry proudly claimed it contained 52 different oils and essences—a number that later accounts in the 1970s expanded to more than seventy ingredients. The composition drew on hints of Bulgarian rose, Parma violet, Oriental jasmine, rare French florals, and exotic blossoms from Algeria and India, accented by aromatic spices and anchored with sandalwood and mossy undertones. Together, these elements created what she described as an aura of legend: a fragrance of feminine enchantment marked by a very dry, light allure.
Thierry characterized her creation as "a floral, natural scent – the kind most people bought – not too powerful but lasting." For her, success was measured not by force but by harmony and persistence. "It's sort of like being a wine taster," she explained. "You just have a feeling inside when it's right." That philosophy extended beyond the scent itself. "A perfume has to be like a musical composition, new and different, but classical," she believed, framing perfumery as an art that balances innovation with timeless structure.
Completion of the fragrance marked only the beginning of her responsibilities. Thierry took charge of every aspect of bringing it to market, from designing the bottle, label, and packaging to overseeing copyright, publicity, and distribution. By 1957, she openly acknowledged the scope of her workload. "Oh yes, I look after all the promotion, accounts and shipping details. It's hard work! I like it though, and I love my trip to America every year." Her words reflect not only determination, but genuine pleasure in shaping every dimension of her creation—an independence that was still rare for women in the perfume industry of the time.
The Name:
Suzanne Thierry was keenly aware that a successful perfume required not only an accomplished composition, but also a name capable of traveling effortlessly across borders. She believed a French name should be easily understood and pronounced internationally, without awkward translations or unintended meanings. Finding such a name proved to be far more difficult than she anticipated. Thierry later recalled that she dreamed up and discarded hundreds of possibilities, a process that stretched on for nearly two years. Again and again, names she favored had to be abandoned when it was discovered that another company had already registered them.
Her first serious choice was Ricochet, a name she found lively and appealing—until practical realities intervened. When she attempted to introduce the perfume to the American market, she learned that a fragrance bearing the same name was already being sold by Ciro. The setback was particularly painful because she had already ordered 50,000 printed labels. "I still have sacks of labels," she remarked with dry humor. "In my old age, I am going to make wallpaper." The incident underscored the complexity of trademark law and the risks faced by independent perfumers navigating international markets.
Eventually, Thierry settled on Ondine, a name that met every requirement she had set for herself. She explained her reasoning with characteristic clarity: "It is easy to say in English without fear of double meaning, easy to pronounce. It is easy to say in French and Spanish. It is not copyrighted, short enough for labels, very feminine and, most important, easy to remember, and besides, Audrey Hepburn is going to make a movie of that name," she said. The name had been chosen with both linguistic precision and cultural awareness, reflecting her understanding of how fragrance branding intersected with popular imagination.
Thierry spent months refining her decision before committing to Ondine, convinced that its simplicity concealed a deeper resonance. She explained that Ondine means mermaid, a mythic water spirit, and emphasized its symbolic power. "That's completely feminine," she pointed out. In that single word, Thierry found an ideal balance of poetry, clarity, and universality—a name that echoed the fluid elegance of the scent itself while remaining memorable and unmistakably woman-centered.
The Launch:
Suzanne Thierry first introduced Ondine in France in 1954, testing the perfume close to home before taking the decisive step of sounding out the American market. That same year, she mailed 5,000 samples to her most loyal American customers—an unusually bold gesture for an independent perfumer. The response was immediate and telling: a large proportion of recipients wrote back requesting full-sized bottles. It was this unsolicited enthusiasm that convinced Thierry she had found a receptive audience across the Atlantic.
When she formally decided to launch Ondine in the United States in 1954, Thierry sought guidance from Edouard Cournand, the influential head of Lanvin New York, who was widely regarded at the time as a strategist of exceptional insight in the perfume business. Acting on his advice, Thierry adopted a selective approach, introducing Ondine initially through a single prestigious Fifth Avenue retailer. In the United States, the fragrance was first sold exclusively at Lord & Taylor in New York, a placement that positioned it firmly within the realm of quality and discretion rather than mass exposure.
From there, growth was driven as much by Thierry herself as by formal advertising. Throughout the late 1950s and early 1960s, she undertook extensive promotional tours across the country, personally visiting stores and customers nationwide. Her warmth and accessibility fostered strong word-of-mouth support, and Ondine gained a reputation as a perfume discovered through personal recommendation rather than aggressive marketing. As sales expanded, Thierry established an American distribution subsidiary headquartered in Miami Beach, again following Cournand’s counsel to ensure efficient national reach.
International recognition soon followed. In 1958, Ondine was awarded a medal at the Brussels World Fair, the first major world’s fair held after the Second World War, an event that drew more than 41 million visitors and symbolized renewed global optimism. By 1964, Thierry had secured more than 300 outlets in the United States, while also firmly establishing the perfume throughout Europe. What began as a carefully judged experiment had become a transatlantic success, achieved through intuition, persistence, and a remarkably personal approach to building a luxury fragrance brand.
In this 1962 photo, Suzanne Thierry cedes the Ondine perfume to the Cardin brothers.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Ondine is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre–oriental fragrance for women. Press materials described it as a "Modern floral bouquet."
- Top notes: aldehyde C-10, aldehyde C-11, aldehyde C-12 MNA, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, citral, Paraguayan petitgrain, Moroccan orange blossom absolute, nerol, Algerian narcissus, Provencal lavender absolute, linalool, linalyl acetate, Ceylon cinnamon , benzyl salicylate, benzyl benzoate, anisic aldehyde, cassie absolute, a-terpineol, Persian galbanum
- Middle notes: hyacinthine, hydroxycitronellal, Bourbon geranium, geraniol, Bulgarian rose otto, Grasse rose absolute, phenylethyl alcohol, Oriental jasmine absolute, Grasse jasmine absolute, Indian tuberose absolute, French carnation, Zanzibar clove, eugenol, isoeugenol, cinnamic alcohol, Manila ylang ylang, heliotropin, Parma violet, methyl ionone, ionone beta, alpha ionone, Florentine orris butter
- Base notes: Mexican vanilla, vanillin, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, Siam benzoin, Levantine storax, Maltese labdanum, artemisia, Peru balsam, tolu balsam, Mysore sandalwood, Virginia cedar, Atlas cedar, Java vetiver, guaiacwood, Singapore patchouli, Yugoslavian oakmoss, ambergris, Tonkin musk, musk ambrette, musk ketone, Abyssinian civet, Canadian castoreum
Scent Profile:
Ondine unfolds as a study in light, structure, and controlled sensuality—an aldehydic floral chypre–oriental that moves like air over water, cool at first touch, then slowly warmed by skin. The opening is a radiant flash of aldehydes: C-10 brings a clean, waxy sparkle suggestive of freshly pressed linen; C-11 adds a green, slightly citrus-peel sharpness; and C-12 MNA contributes a silvery, almost metallic lift that feels expansive and modern. Together, they do not smell “of” anything natural, yet they heighten everything that follows, creating space and luminosity.
Calabrian bergamot—valued for its refined bitterness grown along Italy’s sunlit coast—adds elegance rather than sweetness, while Sicilian lemon supplies crystalline freshness, sharpened further by citral, whose lemon-zest intensity gives clarity and edge. Paraguayan petitgrain introduces a dry, leafy bitterness from the twigs and leaves of the bitter orange tree, tying citrus to green florality. Moroccan orange blossom absolute floats in with creamy, honeyed light, its warmth tempered by nerol, which smells fresher and more citrus-floral, lending lift and transparency.
Algerian narcissus follows with a strikingly complex green-floral note—earthy, leathery, and faintly animalic—far more austere than narcissus from cooler climates. Provençal lavender absolute adds aromatic cleanliness and sun-dried herbaceousness, while linalool and linalyl acetate—naturally present in lavender and citrus—smooth and amplify these effects, lending a soft, airy floral polish.
A restrained touch of Ceylon cinnamon, prized for its delicacy compared to harsher cassia, provides warmth without weight. Benzyl salicylate and benzyl benzoate quietly bind the florals together, adding solar warmth and fixative smoothness, while anisic aldehyde introduces a cool, powdery, heliotrope-like sweetness. Cassie absolute lends a pollen-dry, mimosa-like nuance, slightly leathery and intimate, supported by α-terpineol’s lilac-wood freshness and the bitter green snap of Persian galbanum, which cuts through sweetness with resinous clarity.
The heart blooms into a layered, classical bouquet rendered with remarkable precision. Hyacinthine suggests watery green petals and crushed stems, evoking spring air and damp earth, while hydroxycitronellal brings a dewy, muguet-like freshness that feels almost translucent. Bourbon geranium contributes rosy greenness with a minty edge, reinforced by geraniol’s clean, petal-like sweetness.
Two expressions of rose define the center: Bulgarian rose otto, prized for its depth and natural balance of honey, spice, and citrus facets, and Grasse rose absolute, darker and more velvety, shaped by centuries of cultivation in southern France. Phenylethyl alcohol, smelling of fresh rose petals and cool air, magnifies the roses’ presence while keeping them light. Jasmine appears in dual form: Oriental jasmine absolute, indolic and warm, and Grasse jasmine, luminous and refined; together they create sensuality without heaviness.
Indian tuberose absolute adds creamy, nocturnal richness, its intensity tempered by French carnation, whose clove-spiced floralcy recalls vintage cosmetic powders. Zanzibar clove, eugenol, and isoeugenol sharpen and soften that spice in turns, while cinnamic alcohol lends a gentle balsamic sweetness. Manila ylang-ylang contributes golden, creamy floral warmth, heliotropin adds almond-vanilla powder, and Parma violet—cool and cosmetic—is expanded by methyl ionone, ionone beta, and alpha ionone, whose woody-violet tones enhance diffusion and dryness. At the heart’s foundation lies Florentine orris butter, prized for its buttery, rooty iris scent—powdery, elegant, and exquisitely dry—binding the florals into a soft, aristocratic hush.
As Ondine settles, the base reveals its chypre–oriental soul, warm yet restrained. Mexican vanilla offers a lighter, less sugary sweetness than other origins, complemented by vanillin, which extends and clarifies the vanilla without turning it gourmand. Venezuelan tonka bean and coumarin introduce a hay-like, almond warmth that feels dry and comforting rather than sweet.
Siam benzoin and Levantine storax bring resinous amber warmth with faint smoke, while Maltese labdanum deepens the structure with leathery, sun-warmed richness. Artemisia adds a bitter, silvery herbal dryness that keeps the base from becoming heavy. Peru balsam and tolu balsam smooth the resins with soft balsamic sweetness.
Mysore sandalwood, treasured for its creamy, milky softness and natural fixative power, lends serene depth, joined by the pencil-dry clarity of Virginia cedar and the slightly smoky warmth of Atlas cedar. Java vetiver contributes rooty dryness and smoky elegance, while guaiac wood adds a quiet, resinous smoke. Singapore patchouli provides structure without earthiness, and Yugoslavian oakmoss—green, bitter, and forest-like—cements the chypre backbone with unmistakable dryness.
A breath of ambergris brings saline warmth and skin-like glow, while Tonkin musk, musk ambrette, and musk ketone soften and diffuse the composition, enhancing sensuality without overt animality. Finally, traces of Abyssinian civet and Canadian castoreum lend an intimate, leathery warmth—felt more than smelled—giving the fragrance its human pulse.
The result is a perfume of poised complexity: aldehydes that illuminate rather than dominate, florals rendered airy and sculpted, and a base that is dry, mossy, and quietly animalic. Here, synthetic aroma chemicals do not replace nature; they refine it—extending petals, clarifying resins, and creating space between notes. Ondine wears like a cool, silken veil warmed slowly by skin: elegant, feminine, and enduringly modern.
Mademoiselle, 1971:
"Hence, we propose Ondine Bath Salts— a blend of jasmine, patchouli, oakmoss and other natural oils that add up to absolute heaven. In a handsome fluted glass container. By Suzanne Thierry, $7.50 for 16 ounces. "
Vogue, 1971:
"Ondine. You're more woman than you used to be. You're More Woman. So we blended More Perfume. We scoured the far off corners of the world for Jasmin, Patchouly, Oakmoss, Ylang-ylang, and dozens of other rare essences. The result is Ondine. So incredibly subtle and complex, it covers your whole spectrum"
Bottles:
The next crucial step in creating a successful perfume, Suzanne Thierry believed, was its presentation. For Ondine, she turned to the celebrated industrial designer Raymond Loewy, entrusting him with both the flacon and the packaging. Thierry chose a Louis XV–inspired bottle, a deliberate and deeply personal reference: this was her favorite period, reflected not only in her boutique décor but also in her bachelor apartment in Paris, both furnished in the style’s refined curves and elegant restraint. Gold and silver accents were applied generously, lending the perfume an immediate sense of luxury and permanence that aligned with her vision of a classical yet modern creation.
The Ondine bottle itself is a quietly sculptural object, its design balancing clarity with tactile richness. The glass is finely molded into softly faceted sides that gently refract light, framing the warm amber tone of the fragrance within and giving the bottle visual depth. Its proportions are carefully balanced, imparting a sense of weight and stability despite its modest scale. At the neck, a traditional baudruchage sealing cord introduces an artisanal note, emphasizing craftsmanship and intimacy. Rising above it is the distinctive stopper: an oval ring of clear glass, deeply pleated and delicately translucent, with an open center that subtly recalls rippling water. A dark, oval label anchors the design with restraint, while the base of the bottle is molded with the inscription “Suzanne Thierry Bottle Made in France,” asserting authorship and origin with quiet confidence.
The Eau de Toilette's bottle was shaped like the stopper on the parfum flacon.
The box extends this aesthetic into graphic form, mirroring the bottle’s elegance while embracing a mid-century visual language. Rendered in a warm, parchment-like gold, it is animated by black, wavy horizontal lines that move rhythmically across the surface. Thierry explained this motif simply and poetically: “because a mermaid lives in the water.” At the center, a black oval cartouche bearing the name Ondine echoes the bottle’s label, reinforcing visual continuity. The composition is grounded by a solid black band at the base, signed with Suzanne Thierry’s name in flowing script, like a couture signature. Together, bottle and box create a unified presentation—luxurious yet lyrical, modern yet timeless—perfectly attuned to the fragrance’s airy dryness and mythic inspiration.
New Bottle:
In 1962, Ondine was introduced in a striking new bottle that signaled a decisive shift toward modern sculptural design. Created by Raymond Loewy Associates, the flacon was frequently compared to the work of Constantin Brâncuși for its purity of line and reductive elegance. Tall, slim, and deliberately elongated, the bottle abandoned ornament in favor of proportion and verticality, presenting the perfume as an object of quiet modern art. Its silhouette emphasized light, balance, and refinement—an evolution that reflected early 1960s design sensibilities while preserving the cultivated identity of the Ondine name.
The design was conceived with remarkable versatility. Developed by Raymond Loewy in collaboration with William Snaith, Inc., the bottle form and closure were engineered to adapt seamlessly across a wide range of sizes, from 1/8 ounce to 8 ounces. The same design could be molded in clear or frosted glass, or rendered in Florentine-finish, silver-plated containers, underscoring its functional sophistication. Variations of this bottle were produced to house not only parfum, but also Eau de Toilette, lotion, and related products, ensuring visual continuity across the line. Bottles fitted with plastic caps were supplied by the Mack Molding Company, reflecting the growing integration of modern materials into cosmetic packaging during this period.
Production of these bottles relied on established American manufacturing expertise. Many of the glass flacons for the Ondine line were made by the TC Wheaton Glass Company of Millville, New Jersey. Founded in 1888, Wheaton began as a specialist in pharmaceutical glass, a heritage that ensured precision, uniformity, and high technical standards—attributes that translated naturally to perfumery. By the 1930s, the company had become a trusted supplier for quality fragrance houses on both sides of the Atlantic, producing bottles for names such as Hattie Carnegie, Adrian, Prince Matchabelli, Liz Claiborne, Anne Klein, Corday, Nettie Rosenstein, and Shulton. Wheaton’s role in the Ondine line exemplified a thoughtful balance between French artistic vision and dependable American production—ensuring the fragrance could expand its reach while maintaining elegance, consistency, and quality.
In 1962, Ondine was introduced in a striking new bottle that signaled a decisive shift toward modern sculptural design. Created by Raymond Loewy Associates, the flacon was frequently compared to the work of Constantin Brâncuși for its purity of line and reductive elegance. Tall, slim, and deliberately elongated, the bottle abandoned ornament in favor of proportion and verticality, presenting the perfume as an object of quiet modern art. Its silhouette emphasized light, balance, and refinement—an evolution that reflected early 1960s design sensibilities while preserving the cultivated identity of the Ondine name.
The design was conceived with remarkable versatility. Developed by Raymond Loewy in collaboration with William Snaith, Inc., the bottle form and closure were engineered to adapt seamlessly across a wide range of sizes, from 1/8 ounce to 8 ounces. The same design could be molded in clear or frosted glass, or rendered in Florentine-finish, silver-plated containers, underscoring its functional sophistication. Variations of this bottle were produced to house not only parfum, but also Eau de Toilette, lotion, and related products, ensuring visual continuity across the line. Bottles fitted with plastic caps were supplied by the Mack Molding Company, reflecting the growing integration of modern materials into cosmetic packaging during this period.
Production of these bottles relied on established American manufacturing expertise. Many of the glass flacons for the Ondine line were made by the TC Wheaton Glass Company of Millville, New Jersey. Founded in 1888, Wheaton began as a specialist in pharmaceutical glass, a heritage that ensured precision, uniformity, and high technical standards—attributes that translated naturally to perfumery. By the 1930s, the company had become a trusted supplier for quality fragrance houses on both sides of the Atlantic, producing bottles for names such as Hattie Carnegie, Adrian, Prince Matchabelli, Liz Claiborne, Anne Klein, Corday, Nettie Rosenstein, and Shulton. Wheaton’s role in the Ondine line exemplified a thoughtful balance between French artistic vision and dependable American production—ensuring the fragrance could expand its reach while maintaining elegance, consistency, and quality.
Product Line:
Ondine could be found in parfum extrait (extract) and Ondine All Over, concentrated mist, eau de Ondine (Eau de Toilette), pure mist, talc, soap, lotion parfumee and bath oil.
Eau de Ondine was launched in 1963, advertised as
"Eau de Ondine Created By Suzanne Thierry. Excitingly Alluring As Its Namesake, Ondine, the Mythical water-sprite who lured men with her irresistible charm. The Ondine fragrance embodies the feminine eternal, makes a woman aware of her charms, evokes charming and youthful mannerisms that capture her man's attention. Stronger than a cologne, less concentrated than parfum. Lavish it everyday, everywhere. (Or refresh an earlier application of Ondine parfum).
- Ondine Extrait: $5, $10, $18
- Eau de Ondine: $5, $9, $16
- Spray Ondine: $6
- Dusting Powder Ondine: $5
- Bath Oil Ondine: $5"
The New Yorker, 1966:
"Don't wear Ondine unless you mean it. Ondine by Suzanne Thierry, Paris-Parfum $30 an ounce plus tax."
The Fate of the Fragrance:
Suzanne Thierry first released Ondine under her own name, establishing it as a refined mid-century fragrance with a distinctly French sensibility. Over time, its commercial stewardship shifted among several distributors: in 1954, Latour Products handled distribution, followed later by Tolmer, and eventually MEM. By the 1960s, MEM—operating through its Latour Products Inc. division—held the rights to Ondine, ensuring its continued presence in the market during that decade. Despite changes in distribution, the perfume retained its identity and was still being sold as late as 1983, making it a quietly enduring name long after its initial debut.
Today, Ondine by Suzanne Thierry is discontinued, and the name exists primarily as a trademark rather than as a continuous lineage of the original fragrance. Timeless Perfumes now owns the registered U.S. trademark Ondine Suzanne Thierry, but its current offerings are explicitly not associated with any former manufacturer and do not use—or possess—the original formula. As a result, modern perfumes sold under the Ondine name are widely regarded by longtime admirers as fundamentally different from the historic scent. This sentiment extends as well to versions sold by retailers such as Vermont Country Store, which many reviewers note bear little resemblance to the original composition that once defined Ondine’s reputation.


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