The name "Beloved" is an English word, pronounced bih-LUH-vid, meaning “deeply loved” or “cherished.” Emotionally rich and timeless, it evokes a feeling of tender devotion, longing, and romantic idealism. It calls to mind love letters, pressed flowers, whispered confidences, and timeless elegance. For a woman in 1950, wearing a perfume named Beloved might have felt like an affirmation—an expression of her desirability, her inner softness, and her emotional depth in a world that was, once again, embracing femininity after the turmoil of World War II.
The early 1950s were part of what is now referred to as the "New Look" era, following the revolutionary influence of Christian Dior's 1947 silhouette—cinched waists, full skirts, and soft, romantic lines that celebrated the female form. Women returned to wearing gloves, pearls, and perfume as part of their daily ritual. In fragrance, this was the age of rich floral bouquets and softly sensual compositions. Beloved fit squarely within this trend. Described as a soft, sweet, and warm floral bouquet, it opened with heady Mediterranean blossoms—orange blossom, jasmine, and neroli—resting on an exotic Oriental base, of amber, sandalwood, and incense-like notes. This structure placed Beloved within the popular floral-oriental category, which was widely admired at the time for its richness, femininity, and romantic allure.
The scent would have felt elegant and transporting, designed to make its wearer feel both sensual and adored. In a market that saw the rise of iconic floral and aldehydic scents like Chanel No. 5 and Arpège, Beloved may not have been groundbreaking in structure, but it offered something deeply appealing: intimacy and warmth. It wasn't about status or fashion-forward boldness—it was about being cherished.
Ultimately, Beloved reflected a very personal kind of beauty—one that a woman might wear for herself or for someone she deeply loved. Even the suggestion of a French origin played into the mid-century American fascination with European romance, refinement, and sophistication. While Beloved may not have disrupted trends, it elegantly aligned with them—offering an emotional and sensory refuge in a bottle.
The New Yorker, 1950:
"An utterly different and incredibly long-lasting new perfume...Beloved...introduced simultaneously in France and America by Les Parfums du Prince Matchabelli of Paris, and Prince Matchabelli, Inc. of New York...In azure blue gold-encrusted crown, $5.50 to $32.50. Also in purse dispenser."So what does it smell like? Beloved by Prince Matchabelli is classified as a soft, sweet and warm floral bouquet fragrance for women. Very heady with Mediterranean blossoms layered over an exotic Oriental base. It was described as "the most captivating perfume to ever come out of France. Rich and warm and becoming to the mature woman. An utterly different and incredibly long lasting new perfume. A warm poignant fragrance that seems to whisper of youth "
- Top notes: aldehyde C-10 decanal, aldehyde C-11 undecylenic aldehyde, methyl nonyl acetaldehyde, Calabrian bergamot oil, Seville orange oil, Italian neroli
- Middle notes: Comoros ylang ylang oil, French jasmine grandiflorum, Tunisian orange blossom absolute, Moroccan orange blossom absolute, Grasse rose de mai, honeysuckle absolute, Grasse heliotrope, heliotropin, hydroxycitronellol, phenylethyl alcohol
- Base notes: Roman chamomile oil, Indonesian patchouli, Mysore sandalwood, Tibetan musk tincture, Madagascar vanilla infusion, vanillin, Siam benzoin, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, South American tolu balsam, Spanish cistus labdanum, Sudanese myrrh, Yemeni opoponax, Abyssinian ambergris tincture, Virginian tobacco absolute, Abyssinian civet tincture
Scent Profile:
Smelling Beloved by Prince Matchabelli is like stepping into an opulent dream, where sunlight-drenched Mediterranean gardens melt into dusky Eastern temples. Each note is a story, unfolding gradually—at first bright and shimmering, then lush and romantic, and finally grounding itself in a deep, sensuous hush. The fragrance, though classified as a floral bouquet, is far more than the sum of its petals; it is architecture built from both earth and light, delicately enhanced by the hand of modern perfumery.
As I bring the cross-shaped stopper to my nose, the top opens with an immediate, crystalline brightness. Aldehyde C-10 (decanal) and C-11 (undecylenic aldehyde) lend a silky, slightly metallic shimmer—like sunlight on polished linen. Methyl nonyl acetaldehyde follows with a soft, soapy elegance, bringing a subtle citrus-lilac nuance that diffuses the brightness into something romantic, almost nostalgic. These aldehydes, while synthetic, do not feel cold; instead, they lift and expand the natural ingredients, making them more luminous and airy.
From there, a burst of Calabrian bergamot oil introduces green, citrusy tartness with a floral undertone—a classic in perfumery, prized for its complexity and smoothness. Bergamot from Calabria is especially fine, cultivated in the warm coastal groves of southern Italy where the fruit develops more nuanced oil with less harshness. It harmonizes beautifully with the bitter-sweet charm of Seville orange oil, adding tang and texture, while Italian neroli—distilled from orange blossoms—glides in with a clean, fresh-petaled radiance that hints at the floral heart to come.
Moments later, the perfume settles into its middle, where the richness of a true floral bouquet reveals itself. Ylang ylang oil from the Comoros Islands—rich, creamy, and exotic—spills over the edges, bringing a narcotic, slightly spicy sweetness with its banana custard undertones. French jasmine grandiflorum, grown in Grasse, offers a silky floral note with just a whisper of animalic depth, while Tunisian and Moroccan orange blossom absolutes compete for center stage: one slightly sharper and greener, the other rounder and more indolic.
In their company, Grasse rose de mai—harvested only a few weeks each spring—is soft and dewy, a powdery and fresh contrast to the heady intensity of jasmine and ylang ylang. Honeysuckle absolute adds nectar-like warmth, reminiscent of golden afternoon light, and heliotrope from Grasse lends its signature almond-vanilla warmth, balanced by heliotropin, its synthetic counterpart. Heliotropin gives depth and persistence to the note, allowing the perfume’s powdery sweetness to linger on the skin longer than nature alone would permit.
Hydroxycitronellol, a synthetically derived floral aroma compound, extends the lifespan of the lily-like tones, while phenylethyl alcohol—rosy, clean, and soft—anchors the whole bouquet in an elegant, classic harmony.
As the florals gently fade, the base reveals a layered composition rich in natural resins, rare animalic tinctures, and earthy warmth. Roman chamomile oil is the first to peek through, grassy and herbal with a calming apple-like sweetness, acting as a bridge between the florals and the deeper woods. Indonesian patchouli adds its unmistakable dark, earthy richness—tempered, not overwhelming—its dryness creating a counterpoint to the sweeter elements.
Then comes Mysore sandalwood, creamy, velvety, and hauntingly soft. This prized Indian variety, now endangered and rarely used, lends an elegance that synthetic sandalwood cannot replicate. It’s entwined with Tibetan musk tincture, natural and intimate, whose slightly dirty warmth grounds the floralcy in the animal realm. Abyssinian civet tincture and Abyssinian ambergris tincture follow—natural animalic notes so rare today that their inclusion makes Beloved unmistakably vintage. The ambergris, salty and sweet, adds lift and radiance to the base, while civet deepens the sensuality, never overpowering but always present.
Resins and balsams then unfold in turn: Madagascar vanilla infusion and vanillin bring softness and gourmand warmth; Siam benzoin and South American tolu balsam contribute a rich, sweet resinousness with faint cinnamon undertones. Spanish cistus labdanum gives leathery, amber-like heft. Sudanese myrrh and Yemeni opoponax (sweet myrrh) are bitter and honeyed, spiritual and smoky—adding ancient gravitas to the composition. These balsams coat the skin like a prayer, lingering for hours.
Finally, a thread of Virginian tobacco absolute lends a warm, dry, husky edge—evoking sun-cured leaves and antique wooden boxes. The final whisper of Venezuelan tonka bean and coumarin brings a soft hay-like sweetness, the last sigh of warmth before the perfume fades to memory.
Beloved is not a simple fragrance. It is constructed with the care of a fine tapestry—every thread, whether natural or synthetic, chosen to highlight the others. It evokes not only flowers, but the places they grow, the hands that tend them, and the rituals of beauty and romance that surround them. This perfume speaks not of passing trends, but of something cherished and enduring—just as its name promises.
Bottles:
The perfume was housed in the lovely azure blue crown flacons.
.png)
.png)
.png)
Fate of the Fragrance:
Beloved by Prince Matchabelli was introduced in 1950, during a time when postwar optimism and the glamour of femininity were taking center stage in both fashion and fragrance. Advertised as a soft, warm, and sweet floral bouquet with Mediterranean blossoms layered over an exotic Oriental base, Beloved captured the romantic spirit of its era with an evocative name and composition designed to stir deep emotional resonance.
The launch of Beloved reflected the sensibilities of the early 1950s—a period that emphasized grace, gentleness, and traditional romantic ideals after the upheaval of World War II. Women were once again embracing tailored silhouettes, soft pastel palettes, and fragrances that conveyed both elegance and inner warmth. A perfume like Beloved, with its lush florals and warm, resinous base, was perfectly suited to this atmosphere of refined femininity.
While it is unclear exactly when Beloved was discontinued, documentation confirms that it was still available as late as 1974, making it a fixture in Prince Matchabelli's fragrance lineup for at least two decades. Its longevity on the market indicates a steady popularity, likely due to its classic structure and enduring emotional appeal.
Today, bottles of Beloved—particularly those with original packaging—are sought after by collectors of vintage perfume. Not only does the fragrance represent a carefully crafted olfactory blend typical of mid-century perfumery, but it also serves as a nostalgic touchstone for those who remember the romantic promise conveyed by its name.