Lola Prusac launched her first fragrance, Sega, in 1958, marking her entrance into the world of perfumery. Prusac, a noted French fashion designer, was already famous for her work with Hermès, where she introduced bold, innovative designs, including her much-celebrated travel bags and scarves. Her style was avant-garde, blending modern art influences with traditional craftsmanship, and this creative vision seamlessly carried over into her perfume endeavors. As her first fragrance, Sega was a statement of Prusac’s artistic flair, aligning with her reputation for bold, culturally rich inspirations. The name Sega is not only exotic and evocative, but it also carries significant cultural weight.
The word "Sega" refers to the national dance of Mauritius, a small island nation located in the Indian Ocean off the coast of Madagascar. The Sega dance is an important part of Creole culture and heritage, characterized by rhythmic, flowing movements accompanied by traditional music. Historically, the dance has roots in the enslaved African populations of Mauritius and was used as a form of expression and resistance. Sung in Creole, it shares similarities with the Calypso rhythms of the West Indies. By the mid-20th century, the Sega dance had evolved and was adapted to fit modern tastes, blending traditional elements with contemporary influences to appeal to broader audiences. In the 1950s, Sega had transformed into a more polished performance style, reflecting the cultural revival and post-war fascination with the exotic.
The choice of the name Sega for a fragrance was deeply symbolic. It evoked images of the islands, a sense of escape, rhythm, and sensuality. The word conjures up visions of swaying skirts, warm breezes, and nights filled with music and dance. It suggests a fragrance that is carefree yet deeply connected to nature, rhythmic yet delicate. For women of the 1950s, a perfume called Sega would have represented a fantasy of tropical paradise, a way to indulge in the allure of far-off lands. This was a time when post-war glamour was being infused with more relaxed, exotic influences, and the idea of traveling or at least feeling transported to a distant place was highly appealing. Women would have been drawn to Sega for its promise of adventure, sensuality, and vibrant cultural richness.
Interpreted as a scent, Sega would be a bright, vivacious fragrance with a subtle exotic allure. The top notes of verbena, lemon, and lemongrass create an immediate freshness, reminiscent of a tropical breeze, bright and invigorating. These citrusy elements would have served to catch attention and uplift the spirit, much like the lively beat of the Sega dance. The heart of the fragrance features a more complex floral arrangement—hawthorn, ylang ylang, gentian, iris, and honeysuckle—offering a rich, layered bouquet that blends the delicate with the exotic. The softness of iris and the sweetness of honeysuckle balance against the more distinctive notes of ylang ylang and gentian, creating a sense of depth and intrigue. The base of tobacco flower, tonka bean, and wild cloves brings warmth and a hint of spice, grounding the fragrance with a sensual, slightly mysterious finish. These base notes would linger on the skin, reminiscent of the earthy, sensual rhythms of the Sega dance.
In the 1950s, the world of perfumery was dominated by bold, complex scents, many of which were heavily floral or aldehydic in nature. Fragrances such as Dior's Miss Dior (1947) and Chanel No. 5 (1921) were iconic for their sophistication, but there was also a growing fascination with more exotic, unconventional scents. Sega was unique in its inspiration, drawing directly from the cultural richness of Mauritius and blending tropical florals with the warmth of spices and tobacco. This stood out in a market where perfumes were either highly traditional or leaning toward modern aldehydic blends. By incorporating elements like tobacco flower and wild cloves, Sega balanced between the floral trends of the time and the growing interest in more exotic, oriental-inspired perfumes. It was a fragrance that offered both familiarity and the promise of the unexpected, much like the dance from which it took its name.
In essence, Sega encapsulated the vibrancy and freedom of the dance, translated into a scent that was both lively and grounded in tradition. For women of the era, wearing Sega would have felt like a celebration of femininity, culture, and the exotic, all wrapped in a perfume that promised to transport them to the faraway shores of Mauritius, where rhythm and beauty collided.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Sega by Lola Prusac is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women with ambery (oriental) nuances. Sega was meant to be worn as an evening perfume.
- Top notes: aldehyde amyl cinnamic, Italian neroli, Dutch hyacinth, Spanish verbena, Thai lemongrass, Amalfi lemon, Persian melon
- Middle notes: Madagascar ylang ylang, English gentian, Canadian hawthorn, Indian carnation, Grasse rose, American honeysuckle, Egyptian jasmine and Tuscan iris
- Base notes: Yugoslavian oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Zanzibar wild cloves, resins, Turkish tobacco flower, Venezuelan tonka bean
Scent Profile:
Sega by Lola Prusac is a rich, narcotic tapestry of light and shadow—a floral chypre with ambery depths, designed for the mystery and elegance of evening wear. It moves from a luminous aldehydic sparkle through a lush floral heart into a smoldering, mossy-amber base. Each note seems handpicked not only for its beauty but for the story of its origin—the geography embedded in scent.
At first spray, a crisp effervescence greets the senses—aldehyde amyl cinnamic, a powerful synthetic, unfolds like a golden veil. It smells of warm, sunlit jasmine with a cinnamic twist—slightly spicy, slightly floral, and unmistakably vintage. It lifts the composition, imbuing it with a champagne-like clarity. The sparkle is immediately joined by Italian neroli, distilled from the bitter orange flower. Neroli from southern Italy, especially from Calabria, is prized for its green, fresh, and delicately soapy floral character. It dances above the bouquet with a refined elegance.
There’s a cool, watery green flash from Persian melon, juicy and soft, adding a succulent freshness. This sweetness is tempered by the radiant brightness of Amalfi lemon, the thin-skinned fruit from Italy’s sun-soaked coast, known for its aromatic oils bursting with tart zest and soft floral undertones. Thai lemongrass slices through the sweetness with its citronella-tinged sharpness, giving the perfume a peppery, citrusy edge. The crispness is softened by Spanish verbena, with its delicate herbal lemon notes, and Dutch hyacinth, which provides a rich green floralcy—damp, sweet, and nostalgic, like a spring garden after rain.
As the top fades, the heart blooms with sensuality. Madagascar ylang ylang, often called the “flower of flowers,” lends a heady, creamy floral scent with facets of banana, custard, and rubber. Grown in the volcanic soil of the island, it produces an oil deeper and spicier than other varieties. Grasse rose, cultivated in the perfume capital of the world, is sweet and velvety, full of honeyed and green nuances that give body to the floral accord. Egyptian jasmine joins in, rich and slightly indolic, its narcotic scent adding intensity and depth.
The florals are punctuated with unusual facets: English gentian, with its bitter, herbal edge, adds complexity and a hint of coolness. Canadian hawthorn brings a wild, almond-like aroma, soft and slightly fruity, while American honeysuckle contributes a sugary nectar-like tone. The Indian carnation provides a spicy floral accent, heavy in eugenol, almost clove-like in its warmth. Lastly, Tuscan iris (likely from orris root) adds a powdery, soft rootiness—floral yet vegetal, and lightly earthy. Its presence gives a plush, suede-like softness to the heart, like silk petals resting on skin.
As Sega dries down, the fragrance takes on a dark, sensual character. Yugoslavian oakmoss anchors the base with its inky, forest-like aroma—cool, damp, mineralic. This variety of oakmoss was historically prized for its richness and intensity, lending chypres their characteristic dry, mossy finish. Alongside it, Mysore sandalwood provides creamy, sacred warmth—less sweet and more resinous than synthetics or Australian types, it unfolds like polished wood. Ambergris, once found floating in the sea, now mimicked with synthetics like Ambroxan, adds an oceanic, skin-like radiance—salty, warm, and animalic.
Zanzibar wild cloves, with their high eugenol content, spike the base with a dry, spicy heat. Resins—perhaps labdanum or benzoin—melt into the skin with their golden, sticky warmth. They provide structure and richness, and may be enhanced with synthetic balsamic notes to deepen their presence. Turkish tobacco flower brings a dusky sweetness—drier and more aromatic than pipe tobacco, with a hay-like nuance that’s both smoky and smooth. Finally, Venezuelan tonka bean softens the entire drydown. Rich in coumarin, it smells like warm hay, almond, and vanilla—sweet, cozy, and slightly gourmand.
Sega is not merely floral—it’s an orchestration of texture. Sparkling aldehydes and citrus give way to creamy florals, which then plunge into a dense, mossy base. The use of synthetic components like amyl cinnamic aldehyde and ambergris surrogates doesn’t detract but instead elevates the natural materials, shaping the transitions and enhancing projection and longevity. The result is both vintage and timeless—a sensual, enigmatic evening fragrance that lingers like a whispered secret on silk.
Bottles:
Rather than the standard glass bottle typically used to house perfumes, Sega's packaging in an aluminum "estagnon" bottle with a cork top was a distinctive and unconventional choice for its time. An estagnon is a traditional French container, historically used to store liquids like olive oil, wine, or other precious substances. In perfumery, this type of bottle was a rare but practical choice. Made of aluminum, the estagnon was designed to protect the fragrance from light, air, and heat, all of which can degrade the delicate ingredients of a perfume. The aluminum material ensured that the scent remained fresh and stable, preserving the perfume's composition for longer periods compared to glass bottles, which could expose the contents to sunlight.
The cork top added a rustic, natural touch to the modernity of the aluminum, evoking a sense of tradition and craftsmanship. This design choice likely emphasized the raw, untamed essence of the fragrance, aligning with the exotic imagery of Sega, which drew inspiration from the sensual Sega dance of Mauritius. In the context of perfumery, using an estagnon also suggested that the contents were as precious as fine oils or rare spirits, reinforcing the luxurious, artisanal quality of the fragrance inside. This packaging was both a practical and symbolic reflection of the scent's unique, island-inspired character.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Sega by Lola Prusac, launched in 1958, has since faded into obscurity, with its exact discontinuation date remaining unknown. Today, Sega is an elusive fragrance, highly sought after by collectors of vintage perfumery, adding to its mystique. Following Sega’s departure, Lola Prusac introduced a groundbreaking unisex fragrance in 1966 called Gant de Crin, signaling a bold move towards gender-neutral scents during a time when perfumes were predominantly divided by gender.
The name "Gant de Crin" is French for "horsehair glove," traditionally used as an exfoliating tool to invigorate the skin by promoting circulation and smoothness. The fragrance reflects this concept of revitalization, evoking the sensation of fresh, vigorous friction, much like using a horsehair glove. Its invigorating qualities, described as woody, tonic, and fresh, positioned it as an innovative product that blended scent with skincare.
Unlike typical perfumes, Gant de Crin was also marketed as a friction lotion, a lightly scented toning liquid applied to the skin with firm, brisk motions. This type of product was intended to refresh and energize, making it ideal for morning use. The concept mirrored the physical stimulation of exfoliating with a horsehair glove, though the lotion provided a more delicate and refreshing touch. Both methods shared the goal of improving skin texture and stimulating the senses, leaving the wearer feeling clean and revitalized.
The fragrance’s woody base notes, likely from sandalwood and cedar, combined with fresh top notes, offered a long-lasting, gender-neutral scent that resonated throughout the day. The lotion’s dual function as both a fragrance and a toning product made it an indispensable part of daily self-care, reflecting the emerging trends of the 1960s, where efficiency and well-being became as important as luxury in beauty routines.
Prusac’s marketing of Gant de Crin as “an appreciated gift for Her and for Him” highlighted its modernity and versatility, catering to both men and women at a time when unisex fragrances were still novel. In a market dominated by heavily gendered perfumes, Gant de Crin stood out as a refreshing, dynamic alternative, combining health, vitality, and sophisticated fragrance into one. This innovative blend of skincare and perfumery reflected the changing beauty trends of the era, appealing to the modern consumer’s desire for multi-use products that seamlessly fit into an active lifestyle.