Capucci de Capucci by Roberto Capucci (1987)

Capucci de Capucci, launched in 1987 by Roberto Capucci in association with Weruska & Joel, is a fragrance conceived as a true couture signature—one that mirrors the designer’s sculptural vision and uncompromising artistry. The name itself, “Capucci de Capucci,” is Italian and French in structure, and in plain terms it means “Capucci by Capucci.” Pronounced "ka-POO-chee de ka-POO-chee", the repetition of the name is intentional and emphatic. It asserts authorship, lineage, and authority, much like a couture label sewn into a one-of-a-kind garment. The phrasing evokes tradition, craftsmanship, and legacy, while also suggesting exclusivity—something created not for mass appeal, but as a personal statement of style.

The name conjures images of dramatic silhouettes, architectural volumes, and luxurious fabrics shaped into bold, almost sculptural forms. Emotionally, Capucci de Capucci suggests confidence, refinement, and quiet power—an elegance that does not need to announce itself loudly. In scent, the name implies structure and depth: a fragrance with form, balance, and weight, rather than fleeting prettiness. It hints at richness and precision, where every element is deliberate, much like Capucci’s famously complex pleats and folds.

The fragrance emerged in 1987, at the height of the late-1980s luxury era—a time marked by bold femininity, strong silhouettes, and a return to opulence. Fashion favored dramatic shoulders, sculpted tailoring, rich textures, and statement dressing. In perfumery, this translated into assertive compositions: aldehydic openings, generous florals, and warm, woody or ambery bases that projected sophistication and presence. Women of this period embraced perfume as an extension of identity and power, often choosing scents that felt substantial and enduring. A name like Capucci de Capucci would have resonated with women who identified with couture values—those who saw fragrance as a finishing touch to an elegant, self-assured persona.

Interpreted olfactorily, Capucci de Capucci unfolds with a fresh aldehydic opening, crisp and luminous, evoking the clean, abstract brightness associated with classic haute parfumerie. This effervescence gives way to a precious floral heart, where richness and refinement meet—florals that feel polished rather than romantic, echoing the controlled drama of Capucci’s designs. Beneath it all lies a warm, woody base, infused with semi-amber nuances that lend depth, sensuality, and lasting presence. The composition feels structured yet enveloping, elegant but powerful—very much in line with late-1980s tastes, yet distinguished by its couture sensibility rather than overt excess.

Within the broader fragrance landscape of the time, Capucci de Capucci aligned with prevailing trends—aldehydes, florals, woods, and amber were all hallmarks of the era—but it stood apart through its emphasis on structure and refinement. Rather than chasing overt boldness or sweetness, it offered a composed, architectural elegance that mirrored its creator’s fashion philosophy.

Roberto Capucci himself was one of Italy’s most revered couturiers, often referred to as “the architect of fashion.” Renowned for his sculptural gowns, dramatic volumes, and innovative pleating techniques, Capucci treated fabric as a medium for art rather than mere clothing. His work is celebrated in museums worldwide, and his designs are regarded as timeless expressions of form and craftsmanship. Capucci de Capucci translates this legacy into scent—an olfactory couture piece that embodies structure, beauty, and enduring sophistication.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Capucci de Capucci is classified as a semi-amber woody floral fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh aldehydic top, followed by a precious floral heart, resting on a war woody base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, bergamot, orange, neroli, peach, green note, coriander, cassis, and galbanum
• Middle notes: carnation, violet, iris, hyacinth, lily of the valley, ylang ylang, rose, jasmine and tuberose
• Base notes: leather, castoreum, civet, frankincense, olibanum, opoponax, musk, patchouli, oakmoss, vanilla, sandalwood, ambergris, cedar and vetiver

Scent Profile:

Capucci de Capucci opens with a poised, almost architectural brightness, where aldehydes shimmer like cool light on polished silk. These classic aroma molecules—clean, airy, and faintly soapy—lift the composition upward, amplifying the freshness of the citrus notes that follow. Lemon flashes sharp and crystalline, while bergamot, prized from Calabria for its refined balance of bitterness and floral sweetness, adds elegance rather than acidity. Orange rounds the citrus accord with gentle warmth, and neroli, distilled from bitter orange blossoms, brings a refined green-floral nuance—simultaneously fresh, honeyed, and faintly indolic. 

A soft peach note lends a velvety, almost skin-like fruitiness, made more luminous through synthetic lactonic facets that enhance its creamy juiciness. Beneath this brightness, green notes and galbanum—the latter resin prized from Iran and Turkey for its piercing, bitter-green snap—cut through with a sharp, vegetal intensity, recalling crushed stems and sap. Coriander contributes a dry, lemony spice, while cassis adds a dark, slightly tart green-fruit effect, giving the opening both clarity and intrigue.

As the fragrance settles, the heart unfolds like a richly layered couture fabric. Carnation introduces its unmistakable clove-spiced floral warmth, simultaneously vintage and sensual. Violet follows with a powdery, slightly metallic softness, while iris—evoked through precious orris-like facets—adds a cool, buttery elegance that feels both cosmetic and noble. Hyacinth and lily of the valley bring a dewy, spring-like greenness, lightened and expanded by modern floral molecules that enhance their diffusion and longevity. 

Ylang-ylang, often sourced from the Comoros or Madagascar, contributes creamy, banana-like richness with an exotic warmth, while rose—suggestive of classic European cultivation—adds depth, romance, and structure. Jasmine, luminous and indolic, intertwines with tuberose, whose narcotic, creamy intensity gives the heart its most voluptuous moment. Here, natural floral absolutes are subtly reinforced by synthetics that smooth their rough edges and extend their bloom, allowing the bouquet to feel expansive rather than overwhelming.

The base of Capucci de Capucci is where the fragrance reveals its most dramatic and sensual character. Leather emerges first—dark, supple, and refined—supported by animalic notes of castoreum and civet, used not for raw intensity but for warmth and depth, lending a skin-like sensuality that feels intimate and alive. Frankincense (olibanum), long revered from regions such as Oman and Somalia, rises with a silvery, resinous smoke, while opoponax adds a sweeter, balsamic resin note, thick and velvety. 

Patchouli anchors the composition with earthy darkness, contrasted by the inky bitterness of oakmoss, which gives a classical chypre-like gravitas. Vanilla softens the shadows with gentle sweetness, enhanced by synthetic vanillin that rounds and radiates the note without heaviness. Sandalwood brings creamy, woody warmth, while cedar and vetiver—dry, smoky, and rooty—add structure and verticality. Finally, ambergris and musk linger like a soft glow on skin, their modern molecular interpretations amplifying diffusion and longevity, leaving behind a warm, sensual trail that feels both sculpted and profoundly feminine.

Altogether, Capucci de Capucci wears like a couture creation in scent: luminous at the surface, richly detailed at the core, and deeply resonant at its foundation. Each ingredient is carefully balanced, with synthetic elements enhancing the natural materials—brightening, smoothing, and extending them—so the fragrance feels timeless, structured, and powerfully elegant.

Product Line:

Presented in a bottle designed by Pierre Dinand and made by Pochet du Courval with ‘HP’ trademark on the base.

In 1990/1991, Capucci de Capucci was available in the following formats:

• Parfum: Splash bottle (7.5ml, 30ml); Luxury spray (10ml); Jewel (3ml)
• Related Products: Eau de Toilette splash (50ml, 100ml) EDT Spray (50ml, 100ml)
• Ancillary Products: Perfumed Body Lotion (200ml); Perfumed Bath & Shower Gel (200ml); Perfumed Soap (100g); Deodorant Spray (100ml); Dusting Powder (200ml)

Fate of the Fragrance:

The fragrance was ultimately discontinued, though the exact date of its withdrawal remains unknown. Records confirm that it was still available for sale as late as 1998, at which time it was being distributed by Classic Fragrances, Ltd., indicating that it enjoyed a continued, if limited, presence in the market well beyond its original launch period.

"Top note: aldehyde, bergamot, lemon, peach, green note, coriander. Middle note: rose, jasmine, tuberose, lily of the valley, carnation. Base note: patchouli, cedar. A composition of flowers and precious woods, the first notes are freesia and hyacinth with a subtle expansion of ylang ylang, jasmine, iris, and rose. Following are notes of sandalwood from Mysore, vetiver from Java and patchouli from Seychelles. Ambergris, incense and opoponax blended with musk are the foundation notes."

Filly by Capucci (1983)

Filly by Capucci, launched in 1983, takes its name from a word that is instantly evocative and emotionally charged. “Filly” is an English term referring to a young female horse—lively, graceful, and not yet fully grown. Pronounced simply “FILL-ee,” the word carries connotations of youth, freedom, freshness, and natural elegance. For Roberto Capucci, a couturier celebrated for sculptural forms and fluid movement in fashion, the name was a poetic metaphor: femininity in motion, light on its feet, spirited yet refined. The imagery suggested by Filly—open fields, sunlight, flowing hair, and effortless energy—translates seamlessly into the idea of a fragrance designed to feel youthful, buoyant, and alive.

The early 1980s were a moment of transition in perfumery and fashion. The bold, animalic chypres and power fragrances of the 1970s were giving way to brighter, more approachable compositions that still retained sophistication. Fashion embraced fluidity and optimism alongside structure—soft silhouettes, feminine dresses, pastel tones, and a renewed emphasis on youth and everyday elegance. In fragrance, this translated into florals that felt cleaner, fresher, and more luminous, often lifted with aldehydes and subtle fruitiness. Filly fits squarely into this moment: a floral chypre that nods to classic structure while softening it with sweetness, light, and charm. Women in this era—particularly younger women or those seeking an easy, graceful daytime scent—would have related to Filly as an expression of freshness and femininity without the weight or drama of heavier perfumes.

In scent, the name Filly is interpreted through a composition that feels both fresh and gently intoxicating. The opening is bright and aldehydic, sparkling with a clean, airy lift that suggests crisp linen and morning light. This freshness is touched with a faint fruity sweetness, giving the impression of youthful exuberance rather than overt gourmand richness. As the fragrance unfolds, a tender floral heart emerges: jasmine brings a soft, luminous sensuality; neroli adds a fresh, slightly bitter orange-blossom clarity; tea rose contributes a delicate, sheer floral tone; and hyacinth introduces a green, dewy facet that enhances the impression of springtime bloom. These florals are blended to feel light and harmonious rather than dramatic, creating a bouquet that is airy, feminine, and approachable.

The base settles into a gentle, powdery finish that reinforces the fragrance’s elegance and wearability. True to its chypre classification, the structure provides subtle depth without heaviness, allowing the florals to linger softly on the skin. The result is a scent that feels youthful but not naïve, delicate yet confidently composed. In the context of the early 1980s fragrance landscape, Filly was not radically avant-garde, but it was perfectly attuned to the prevailing trends: lighter florals, softened classics, and fragrances designed for everyday pleasure rather than formal statement. Its slogan, “Habillez-vous de Filly!”—“Dress yourself in Filly!”, captures this perfectly, presenting the perfume as an extension of personal style—effortless, uplifting, and quietly elegant.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Filly is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh aldehydic top, followed by a floral heart, layered over a powdery base. It is both fresh and heady with a very sweet start, slightly fruity, then a very flowery background.

• Top notes: aldehydes, tangerine, neroli, lemon, bergamot, peach, green leaves
• Middle notes: lily of the valley, hyacinth, jasmine, carnation, orchid, tea rose, orris, ylang-ylang
• Base notes: ambergris, civet, oakmoss, musk, sandalwood, vetiver

Filly is a delicate and youthful fragrance, characterized by its floral and lightly fruity notes. The composition features a harmonious bouquet of jasmine, neroli, tea rose, and hyacinth, creating a soft, fresh, and subtly sweet aroma. Designed for a young and vibrant wearer, Filly leaves an exquisite trail that can be enjoyed at any time of day. Its charm lies in its simplicity and elegance, making it a perfect everyday fragrance. The slogan “Habillez-vous de Filly!”—“Dress yourself in Filly!”—captures its playful and uplifting spirit.

Scent Profile:

Filly opens with a bright, effervescent shimmer that immediately feels alive and youthful, as though the air itself has been freshly washed by sunlight. The aldehydes sparkle first—clean, airy, and slightly soapy, like crisp white linen snapping in a spring breeze. These classic perfumery molecules don’t smell “natural” in the botanical sense, yet they amplify everything around them, lifting the citrus and floral notes and giving the fragrance its buoyant, polished glow. 

Into this radiance pours a cascade of citrus: tangerine brings a juicy, playful sweetness with a soft, almost candied peel nuance; lemon is sharper and brighter, adding a flash of acidity; and bergamot, traditionally sourced from Calabria in southern Italy, contributes a refined bitterness with aromatic depth that distinguishes it from simpler citrus oils. Neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, adds a luminous white-floral freshness—green, slightly honeyed, and elegant—bridging citrus and floral seamlessly. A velvety touch of peach rounds the opening with a soft, fuzzy fruitiness, while green leaves introduce a dewy, chlorophyll-like freshness that suggests crushed stems and young shoots, keeping the sweetness light and natural.

As Filly moves into its heart, the fragrance blooms into a tender yet expressive floral bouquet that feels both classic and gently romantic. Lily of the valley, often recreated through aroma chemicals such as hydroxycitronellal, smells fresh, watery, and delicately sweet, evoking tiny white bells dusted with morning dew. Hyacinth adds a greener, slightly earthy floral tone—cool, crisp, and spring-like—giving the heart a natural, garden-fresh character. Jasmine brings softness and sensuality, its creamy, subtly indolic warmth suggesting sun-warmed petals; here, its richness is carefully balanced so it enhances rather than overwhelms. 

Carnation introduces a gentle spiciness, clove-like and rosy, lending texture and sophistication. Orchid contributes an abstract, silky floral impression rather than a literal scent, while tea rose offers a sheer, airy rose note—fresh and lightly sweet, never heavy. Orris, derived from the aged rhizomes of Italian iris and prized for its rarity and cost, imparts a refined powdery elegance, reminiscent of violet-tinted suede. Ylang-ylang, traditionally sourced from tropical regions such as the Comoros or the Philippines, adds a creamy, slightly banana-like floral richness, rounding out the heart with warmth and femininity.

The base of Filly settles into a soft, intimate chypre foundation that feels smooth and enveloping rather than dark or dramatic. Oakmoss, historically harvested in European forests, provides an earthy, slightly bitter-green depth that anchors the fragrance and gives it its classical chypre structure. Vetiver, with its dry, rooty, and faintly smoky character—especially elegant when sourced from regions like Haiti—adds subtle woody freshness and structure. Sandalwood contributes a creamy, milky woodiness, smoothing the transition from florals to base and lending a comforting warmth. 

Musk, likely synthetic in this era, adds a clean, skin-like softness that enhances longevity and creates a gentle aura rather than overt animalism. Traces of ambergris and civet, used with restraint, provide a warm, slightly salty and animalic undertone—more suggestive than overt—adding depth and sensuality without heaviness. Together, these elements create a powdery, lingering finish that feels elegant and wearable, allowing Filly to trail softly behind the wearer like a whisper of florals and clean skin, fresh yet undeniably feminine.

Product Line:

In 1984/1985, Filly was available in the following:

• Presentation: Eau de Parfum (20ml)
• Related Products: Eau de Toilette (60ml, 120ml, 240ml); Atomizer (60ml, 100ml)

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. It was still sold in 1995.