Presence by Houbigant (1929)

Launched in 1929, Présence by Houbigant arrived at a pivotal moment in modern history—a final flourish of glamour before the seismic economic and cultural shifts that would define the 1930s. The name Présence is French, pronounced “preh-ZAHNS”. In its simplest definition, it means "presence"—but in French, the word carries a gravity and elegance beyond its English equivalent. It implies aura, grace, and the intangible command a person has simply by entering a room. Choosing this name signaled that Houbigant was offering not just a perfume, but an invisible garment of confidence and distinction. The word Présence evokes poise, magnetism, and a sense of self-assurance that lingers—something women of the era would have found deeply appealing.

In 1929, the world stood on the edge of transformation. The exuberance of the Jazz Age was still in motion—marked by Art Deco luxury, cinematic sophistication, and bold fashion silhouettes—but the looming economic crash would soon reshape daily life. Perfume, like fashion, reflected the dual impulses of the time: the continued love of opulence, paired with an emerging desire for complexity and restraint. Présence, created by perfumer Raymond Kling, seems to capture both. It is described as a heady, spicy green chypre, yet it carries a notable hesperidic tang—a zestiness that adds levity to its otherwise serious, velvety character.

For the modern woman of 1929—many of whom were embracing shorter hemlines, tailored suits, and bobbed hair—Présence would have symbolized strength without losing sensuality. It was said to be both brilliant and discreet, which speaks to a refined duality: a scent that turns heads without shouting, that lingers not through force, but through allure. It was not merely decorative—it made a statement.

In olfactory terms, the concept of Présence likely played out in contrasts: a burst of citrus and spice to catch attention, a green herbaceous heart to suggest intellect and individuality, and a deep, mossy wood base to ground it in mystery and longevity. This was a time when perfumers were using bold new synthetics alongside traditional naturals, crafting intricate compositions that reflected the multi-faceted identities of women. Unlike the floral bouquets popular earlier in the decade, Présence carved out space for complexity and depth. It nodded to the chypre family—already made famous by Coty’s groundbreaking Chypre—but added its own uniquely spicy-green edge.

Thus, Présence stood apart from the more powdery or overly floral fragrances of its time. It was tailored, vivid, and quietly powerful—a reflection of the modern woman herself. In an era hungry for elegance yet shaped by looming change, Présence offered something lasting: the invisible trace of one’s unmistakable self.    

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Presence by Houbigant is classified as a spicy green chypre fragrance for women with a noticeable hesperidic tang and zest on a heady, woodsy base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Sicilian lemon, Tunisian neroli, Italian mandarin oil, Guinea orange, Calabrian bergamot, Paraguayan petitgrain, Persian galbanum
• Middle notes: Comoros ylang ylang, Egyptian jasmine, Tuscan violet leaf absolute, Peruvian heliotrope, Alpine lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellal, Florentine orris, methyl ionone, Provencal herbs (marjoram, thyme, tarragon), Ceylon cinnamon bark, French carnation, isoeugenol, Grasse rose de mai
• Base notes: Spanish labdanum, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, vanillin, Siam benzoin, Levantine styrax, Tibetan musk, musk ambrette, Abyssinian civet, Canadian castoreum, ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, cypriol, Indonesian patchouli, Balkans oakmoss, Haitian vetiver, Virginian cedar

 

Scent Profile:

As I unstopper the crystal flacon of Présence by Houbigant, the air comes alive with a radiant surge of citrus and verdant sparkle. The top notes unfold with a vivid burst of Sicilian lemon—bracing and sunlit, its crisp acidity softened by the honeyed warmth of Italian mandarin oil, both citrus essences echoing the golden groves of southern Italy. The addition of Guinea orange, a rarer and sharper citrus, brings a slightly more bitter edge, its character less juicy and more aromatic, elevating the top with a sense of dry refinement. Tunisian neroli, distilled from bitter orange blossoms, weaves a translucent white-floral breeze through the citrus, ethereal and slightly soapy, while Calabrian bergamot, with its subtle floral undertones and delicate green tang, anchors the brightness. There’s a cooling lift from Paraguayan petitgrain, its wood-leaf character whispering of clean linen and distant woods, quickly tempered by the sharp, resinous sting of Persian galbanum, which cuts through the effervescence like a slash of crushed sap—green, intense, uncompromising.

As the composition settles into its heart, the perfume blooms into a heady, lush floral tapestry. At its center is Comoros ylang ylang, its deep, almost narcotic richness infused with notes of ripe banana and creamy custard, softened by the luminous transparency of Egyptian jasmine—a fresh floral rather than a sultry one, brightened by the dewy sparkle of Alpine lily of the valley. The green character persists through Tuscan violet leaf absolute, which adds a polished, faintly metallic sharpness—a green that is almost wet, conjuring crushed leaves after a summer rain. A hint of powder begins to emerge from Peruvian heliotrope, with its soft almond-vanilla nuance, giving way to the silken earthiness of Florentine orris—an ingredient so laboriously produced it’s nearly mythical, its buttery, violet-like facets smoothed into elegance by methyl ionone, a synthetic that enhances orris' powdery glow and lends body and persistence.

Threaded throughout the florals are Provencal herbs—marjoram, thyme, and tarragon—which give a savory, aromatic sharpness, grounding the composition in the dry hills of southern France. The spicy thrust of Ceylon cinnamon bark, true and hot, is offset by French carnation, whose peppery clove-like quality is enhanced by isoeugenol, a spicy synthetic that builds warmth and complexity. Finally, Grasse rose de mai—delicate, rounded, slightly honeyed—emerges not as a diva, but as a velvet petal resting gently atop the floral structure, dignified and sublime.

The base is where Présence truly earns its name. It is both sensual and animalic, earthy and noble. Spanish labdanum lays down a leathery, resinous bed—dark and ambery—folded into the smoky warmth of Levantine styrax and the balsamic sweetness of Siam benzoin. The comfort of Venezuelan tonka bean, with its soft almond-laced coumarin, and the dusky powder of vanillin add a warm, gently gourmand trail. Rich Tibetan musk and musk ambrette—the latter a botanical musk from hibiscus seeds—supply a sheer, lingering sensuality that blends seamlessly with Abyssinian civet and Canadian castoreum, both used in minute, artful amounts to create an aura of living warmth without veering into animalistic excess. The ghost of ambergris lends a saline smoothness that ties every note together like golden thread.

Finally, the woods arrive in full splendor. Mysore sandalwood—creamy, sacred, and precious—wraps the base in silk, its smoothness enhanced by cypriol, with its dry, smoky vetiver-like personality. Indonesian patchouli adds shadows—dark, damp, slightly camphoraceous—grounding the sweetness of tonka and resins. Balkans oakmoss, thick and velvet-like, envelops the drydown with its signature mossy, forest-floor dampness, supported by the grassy rootiness of Haitian vetiver. Virginian cedar, bright and pencil-sharp, adds an architectural spine, clean and linear, ensuring the composition never sags under its own richness.

Présence is not a fragrance that drifts passively through the air. It moves with precision and confidence, a scent that commands attention not with volume, but with elegance, persistence, and complexity. It is both classic and daring, as much a statement as it is a veil. To wear it is to project quiet authority—to arrive with impact, even before a single word is spoken.

Bottles:

The Présence parfum by Houbigant was housed in an elegant and thoughtfully designed presentation that reflected the refinement of the scent within. It was presented in a deluxe oval box, made of cardboard but richly covered in green and beige moiré silk fabric. The lid of the box was labeled with the name “Présence, HOUBIGANT,” adding a formal and distinguished touch. This was a luxurious hinged case—both protective and beautiful—that elevated the experience of opening and using the perfume.

Inside, the Baccarat crystal flacon echoed the sophistication of the outer case. It was a modernist amphora-style bottle, crafted from colorless molded and pressed glass with a cylindrical form. The body of the bottle featured a pronounced decoration of vertical fluting—raised ribs known as godrons saillants—which added a classical texture and gave the flacon a subtle play of light. The glass itself was ten-sided (verre à dix pans), a detail that made the bottle visually striking from every angle. The stopper was a flat disc-shaped cap with a notched, or scalloped, motif, echoing the geometric clarity of the bottle’s body.

This stopper design was identical to the base label of the flacon, which was inscribed with the words “Présence” and “Houbigant,” ensuring continuity in the design language and branding. The overall height of the bottle was 9 cm—compact, but substantial enough to feel significant in the hand. Notably, this particular bottle design would go on to be adapted for Houbigant’s later release, Chantilly, proving the enduring appeal and versatility of its form. Altogether, the presentation of Présence embodied the values of Art Deco modernity combined with timeless elegance—classic yet forward-looking, much like the fragrance itself.

Presence, prices as of 1941:

• Petit Modele $6.60
• Grand Modele $52.00
• Petit Modele w/Atomizer $7.50
• Grand Modele w/Atomizer $60.00
• Modele Reduit $10.00- $80.00
• Modele Original $16.50

1934 advertisement for Presence. Note the model's typical 1930s manicure showing the lunulae of the nail bed painted white, also known as the moon manicure or the reverse French manicure.

The fragrance Présence by Houbigant, introduced in 1929, remained a quietly magnetic presence across several decades, its legacy captured in advertisements and editorials that hint at the nuanced beauty it offered. A 1936 feature in Hearst's calls it an "enchanting" perfume of “authentic greatness,” emphasizing not only its olfactory elegance but also its luxurious presentation, designed for gifting. Priced at $16.50—quite an investment for the era—it was clearly positioned as a premium, sophisticated scent for the discerning woman. Its appeal, from the outset, was not loud or brash, but cultured and commanding.

By 1937, Marie-Claire described Présence as “very original,” with an uplifting floral accent—tailored, quite unusually, for redheads. This remark likely alluded to the perfume’s warm, spicy-green character that harmonized beautifully with the vivacity and contrast of auburn or copper-toned hair. The editorial, poetically referencing the French writer Léon-Paul Fargue, connected the wearer of Présence with a woman who is both domestic and dynamic—capable of composing a bouquet, hemming a dress, and preparing a stew with equal artistry. This was perfume not just as an adornment, but as an extension of a woman’s multifaceted life.

In 1950, the French arts journal L'Amour de l'art rendered a more introspective portrayal: Présence, it wrote, “floats around you like a haunting and dear dream,” its velvety, tenacious trail a kind of olfactory memory that returns like a cherished refrain. This description captures the deeper character of the scent—its contradiction of being both discreet and unforgettable, a trace of identity lingering in the air long after the wearer has departed. It speaks to the unique quality of the perfume to project intimacy and mystery simultaneously.

By the 1960s, Présence had evolved into a refined classic. Mademoiselle referred to “delicate Presence, Houbigant’s parfum pour le bain,” showing that the line had expanded beyond extrait and eau de toilette into luxurious bath fragrances, catering to the growing market for layered, full-body scent rituals. Finally, Harper’s Bazaar in 1965 offered a succinct but glowing review, calling Présence “a delicious fourth dimension for any chic lady.” In a time when perfumery was increasingly aligning with modern fashion and cosmopolitan elegance, Présence was presented as a sensory companion—a graceful extension of a woman's style, mood, and aura.

Over time, Présence revealed itself as more than just a perfume—it became an olfactory signature for women of confidence and complexity, weaving invisibly through their daily lives with a resonance that was velvety, vibrant, and deeply personal.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. 

1960 Reformulation & Relaunch:

Spicy in type, green and woody in character, this fragrance is composed of Provençal herbs, jasmine, rose, patchouli, mimosa, civet, musk, and ambergris. Brilliant and modern in its construction, it is youthful, fresh, and distinguished. Created for a worldly woman with a strong sense of individuality, it is elegant and refined—fashion itself, expressing everything that is radiant, feminine, and sophisticated.

Présence by Houbigant, first launched in 1933, arrived at a time when the world was still reeling from the effects of the Great Depression—but Paris, ever the guardian of elegance, continued to uphold the ritual of fine fragrance as a form of self-expression and emotional escape. In this setting, Houbigant introduced Présence, a perfume whose very name promised intangible allure—a fragrance that could linger in a room long after its wearer had departed. The French word présence (pronounced prez-AHNSS) implies not only physical nearness but also charisma, elegance, and the ineffable impression one leaves behind.

In its original form, Présence was housed in a classically inspired fluted glass amphora flacon, nestled in a green moiré silk-covered case. This presentation was both refined and unmistakably Art Deco in influence—sophisticated, modern, but still grounded in tradition. The scent itself was a spicy green chypre, anchored by a hesperidic brightness and softened by a velvety, woody base. With a heart of flowers and herbs, it exuded confidence and intellectual femininity—something that resonated with the growing number of independent, socially active women of the 1930s.

The perfume appears to have been discontinued sometime in the 1950s, a common fate for many classic fragrances during a postwar era that saw changes in public taste, supply shortages, and a shift in marketing strategies. However, in 1960, Présence reemerged, possibly in a reformulated version, dressed in striking midcentury packaging. The new box was white and cylindrical, decorated with an "atomic age" motif—crisscrossed black, gray and red lines that reflected the era’s fascination with futurism, science, and streamlined design. The updated look suggested a fresh approach to the classic scent, aligning it with a younger, more modern audience.

This second iteration of Présence may have aimed to balance the original's legacy with the changing aesthetics and olfactory preferences of the 1960s—possibly lighter, more abstract, but still touched with the elegance that marked Houbigant’s best creations. In both incarnations, Présence remained true to its name: a scent not merely worn, but one that inhabited space, memory, and mood.

Spicy in type, green and woody in character, this fragrance is composed of Provençal herbs, jasmine, rose, patchouli, mimosa, civet, musk, and ambergris. Brilliant and modern in its construction, it is youthful, fresh, and distinguished. Created for a worldly woman with a strong sense of individuality, it is elegant and refined—fashion itself, expressing everything that is radiant, feminine, and sophisticated.

• Top notes: Provencal herbs, mimosa
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose
• Base notes: civet, musk, ambergris, patchouli

In 1969/1970, Présence was available in Perfume: In a presentation bottle: 0.25 oz, 0.5 oz, 1 oz, 2 oz; Refillable Perfume Atomizer.

Also available in Eau de Toilette: Splash bottles 2 oz, 4 oz, 6 oz; Parfum de Toilette: 2 oz, 4 oz.

 

Unfortunately, this later version of Présence by Houbigant also met the fate of discontinuation, though the exact date it was removed from the market remains unknown. What is known is that it was still being sold in 1965, indicating that it maintained a presence—both literal and symbolic—well into the stylish, modernist mid-1960s. By then, it stood among Houbigant’s enduring classics, appealing to women who appreciated a refined, poised fragrance with depth and character. Despite its eventual disappearance from store shelves, Présence remains remembered as a perfume that beautifully captured the shifting spirit of the early 20th century into the postwar era—a scent as lasting and quietly powerful as the name itself suggests.

1988 Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 1988, Présence by Houbigant was given a new lease on life. Reimagined and reformulated under the Parfums Parquet division—a nod to Paul Parquet, Houbigant’s legendary perfumer—the fragrance was crafted with modern ingredients and contemporary sensibilities in mind. This iteration marked a significant departure from its earlier versions. The original spicy green chypre of the 1930s and the airy elegance of the 1960 reformulation gave way to a composition tailored to the tastes of the late 1980s: bolder, cleaner, and more aligned with the fashion-forward, powerfully feminine image of the era.

The packaging, too, was completely redesigned. Gone were the Art Deco flourishes and atomic motifs; in their place was a sleek, more minimalist presentation that reflected the luxury branding trends of the late 20th century. The relaunch aimed to introduce Présence to a new generation—one that valued prestige, individuality, and polished sophistication. This version sought to preserve the spirit of presence and elegance, but with a contemporary twist, leaning into the more linear, structured style of perfumery that characterized the decade.

Sadly, this revival was short-lived. Just five years later, in 1993, Présence was discontinued once again following Parfums Houbigant’s bankruptcy and the complex series of ownership changes that destabilized the brand. While this final version of Présence never quite achieved the cultural imprint of its predecessors, it stands as a fascinating chapter in Houbigant’s storied history—a final echo of a fragrance that, true to its name, always managed to leave an impression, even in absence.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Presence by Houbigant is classified as a chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Sicilian lemon, Calabrian bergamot, Italian neroli, apple accord
• Middle notes: Provencal honey, Peruvian heliotrope, Grasse jasmine absolute, spices, English lavender
• Base notes: Virginian cedar, ambergris, Florentine orris, Haitian vetiver, Yugoslavian oakmoss, French beeswax, Mysore sandalwood

Scent Profile:

Présence by Houbigant envelops you in a sophisticated, chypre embrace—a fragrance that opens like a breath of crisp air on a sun-drenched hillside, then gradually unfolds into the warmth of late afternoon light caught in golden resin and woods. As I lift the scent to my nose, the first impression is brilliantly effervescent. There is a glimmering sweep of aldehydes, sparkling like champagne bubbles across the skin. These aroma molecules—particularly C11 undecylenic aldehyde and C12 lauric aldehyde—lend a soapy-clean, metallic brilliance that sharpens and illuminates the rest of the composition. Their abstract quality enhances the freshness of the citrus top notes while also hinting at the elegance to come.

The citrus components are lively and invigorating. Sicilian lemon, with its zesty rind and sweet-sour juice, provides a bright, puckering opening. This is softened by the lush, green warmth of Calabrian bergamot, a uniquely floral citrus from the southern Italian coast prized for its rich, rounded scent. It is neither sharp nor acidic—rather, it hums with subtle bitterness and a herbaceous nuance. Italian neroli, distilled from orange blossoms, adds a floral dimension to the citrus—a radiant white bloom with waxy, honeyed facets. And then, intriguingly, there is a fresh apple accord, crisp and faintly watery, which brings a modern, fruity twist to the otherwise classic opening. Its synthetic construction mimics the snap and dewiness of a freshly sliced green apple, and it harmonizes beautifully with the aldehydes and lemon, enhancing their juiciness.

As the top notes recede, the heart begins to bloom—honeyed, sun-warmed, and rich with contrast. Provencal honey rises with a golden hum, offering an animalic sweetness tinged with wild herbs and sun-drenched pollen. This merges with Peruvian heliotrope, which smells like sugared almonds and vanilla, soft and comforting, but with a slight powderiness that lends body. Grasse jasmine absolute—one of the most refined expressions of jasmine in perfumery—brings opulence and sensuality. Its narcotic white petals are dense with indoles, giving the floral heart a sultry, skin-like depth. Spices flicker subtly beneath—perhaps a dusting of clove or allspice—warming the heart like embers. The addition of English lavender offers a crisp herbal counterpoint, clean and aromatic, cooling the heat and giving the composition a slightly vintage, aristocratic air.

Then the fragrance begins to settle, sinking into a velvety base as earthy and grounding as forest soil. Virginian cedar anchors the dry down with its pale, pencil-shavings dryness—clean, linear, and softly resinous. A trace of ambergris—whether natural or synthetic—adds a salt-air quality, marine and musky, lending diffusion and sensuality. Florentine orris, one of perfumery’s most precious materials, unveils a powdery, buttery violet-like softness, extracted from the root of the iris flower and aged for years to develop its full scent. Its creamy, slightly woody texture acts as a bridge between the floral heart and the woody base.

Haitian vetiver brings a green, rooty, smoky edge that balances the sweetness of the heliotrope and honey, while Yugoslavian oakmoss—a staple of traditional chypres—delivers a mossy, slightly bitter depth. Its damp, forest-floor aroma binds the composition together and gives it a grounding sense of mystery. The inclusion of French beeswax adds a balsamic, faintly smoky sweetness, echoing the honey but with more weight and warmth. Finally, the base rests on the rich, golden foundation of Mysore sandalwood, creamy and sacred, with its smooth, lactonic softness that lingers on the skin like velvet for hours.

Together, these elements form a perfume that is not only classically structured but emotionally resonant—like the memory of a distant presence that lingers in the air, impossible to forget. Présence is not merely smelled; it is felt—warm, tenacious, elegant, and composed with rare precision.