Kéora by Parfums Jean Couturier, launched in 1983, carries a name that immediately conjures visions of exotic lands and rare botanicals. The word “Kéora” (pronounced kay-oh-rah) draws inspiration from kewra, the precious floral essence derived from the Pandanus tree, or Pandang, native to India. This tropical plant produces delicate, star-shaped flowers with a naturally sweet, slightly watery fragrance reminiscent of rose, jasmine, and lily, with subtle tropical nuances. The essence, known as kewra oil, is extracted through steam distillation of the fresh flowers, yielding a perfume oil prized in both perfumery and traditional Indian rituals for its intoxicating, heady aroma. In selecting this name, Jean Couturier evoked the elegance, mystery, and sensuality of the Orient, inviting the wearer on a fragrant journey to faraway, sun-drenched landscapes.
The early 1980s, when Kéora was launched, were a period of bold expression in fashion and fragrance. Women were embracing scents that were both opulent and feminine, reflecting independence and sophistication. Perfume trends favored rich, sweet floral-orientals, often layered with fruit, spice, and powdery notes, and Kéora fit perfectly within this zeitgeist while standing out for its distinctive exotic inspiration. Its name suggested refinement, allure, and a hint of sensual intrigue, promising a fragrance that was both luxurious and accessible, appealing to women who sought elegance with a touch of adventure.
Kéora itself is classified as a sweet, fruity floral oriental fragrance for women, opening with a bright, fresh top that immediately awakens the senses. The heart unfolds into a sumptuous floral bouquet, rich and layered, evoking the lush, tropical blooms of its inspiration, while the base settles into a warm, balsamic, powdery foundation that enhances its sensuality. The fragrance balances sweetness with sophistication, creating a composition that feels indulgent without overwhelming, refined yet inviting. In the context of the 1980s perfume market, Kéora exemplified the era’s love for opulent, exotic floral-orientals, yet it distinguished itself through its specific nod to the rare and aromatic kewra flower, offering women a unique scent narrative—a harmonious blend of freshness, floral richness, and tropical warmth that transported them far beyond the familiar streets of Paris into the sensual gardens of India.
Kéora, in essence, is a perfume that speaks of romance, luxury, and discovery, capturing both the spirit of its time and the enduring allure of a floral oriental fragrance built on a foundation of rare, exotic ingredients.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet and rich fruity floral oriental fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh top, followed by a sweet floral heart, resting on a sweet, balsamic, powdery base.
- Top notes: bergamot, lemon, rosewood, mandarin, neroli, mimosa, hyacinth, peach, cardamom, cloves, nutmeg, coriander
- Middle notes: rose, kewra oil, mace, jasmine, orange blossom, orris, lily of the valley, saffron, ginger, cinnamon, pepper, tuberose, ylang ylang, lilac, honeysuckle
- Base notes: castoreum, tonka, cistus, myrrh, benzoin, civet, benzoin, leather, vetiver, patchouli, incense, musk, ambergris, vanilla, sandalwood
Scent Profile:
Kéora opens with a vibrant and sparkling top, a symphony of citrus and subtle spices that immediately awakens the senses. The bergamot from Calabria offers a crisp, bright citrus note with a slightly bitter nuance, while sun-kissed lemons lend their tangy, effervescent sweetness. Juicy mandarin complements with a soft, almost honeyed citrus glow, and neroli, extracted from the delicate blossoms of bitter orange trees in Tunisia, adds a green-floral freshness that is both uplifting and sophisticated.
The exotic sweetness of peach drifts softly alongside the warm spiciness of cardamom, cloves, nutmeg, and coriander, creating a subtle, aromatic warmth that deepens the initial citrus burst. Rosewood, with its woody, slightly floral facet, lends refinement and an understated elegance to the top, hinting at the oriental complexity to come. This opening is both fresh and nuanced, a perfect invitation to the richer floral heart that follows.
As the fragrance unfolds, the middle notes reveal a sumptuous, opulent floral bouquet, intensely feminine yet layered with exotic spices. The rose, a blend of Bulgarian and Moroccan varieties, offers a deep, velvety floral richness, enhanced by the kewra oil, whose tropical, watery floral aroma evokes the lush Pandanus blossoms of India—softly exotic, with hints of rose and jasmine intertwined with subtle green undertones. Jasmine from Grasse adds its sensual, honeyed floral sweetness, while orange blossom contributes a creamy, luminous softness.
The heart is further enriched by iris (orris root), lending a powdery, slightly woody elegance, and the delicate, dewy lily of the valley evokes a cool spring morning. Warmth and depth emerge from the spices—saffron, cinnamon, ginger, mace, pepper—each imparting a subtle, exotic heat that dances around the florals, while tuberose, ylang-ylang, lilac, and honeysuckle create a rich, almost intoxicating floral tapestry. The result is a heart that feels luxurious, hypnotic, and enveloping, a sensual bouquet that feels both familiar and intriguingly exotic.
The base notes of Kéora ground the composition in a warm, balsamic embrace, evoking the depth of a classic oriental fragrance. Sandalwood from Mysore, prized for its creamy, milky smoothness, blends seamlessly with the earthy vetiver, adding a dry, smoky elegance. Patchouli from Indonesia brings a sweet, dark, resinous woodiness, while cistus (labdanum) and benzoin provide a warm, resinous sweetness reminiscent of amber and incense. Myrrh adds a rich, balsamic, slightly medicinal warmth, and tonka bean contributes its signature sweet, vanilla-almond nuance.
Animalic notes—civet, castoreum, leather—lend a sensual, skin-like depth, softened by ambergris and synthetic musks, which enhance the longevity and diffusion of the natural elements. Finally, vanilla smooths the composition with creamy sweetness, harmonizing with the warm woodiness and spicy undertones to create a lingering, enveloping finish that is at once rich, exotic, and sophisticated.
Overall, Kéora is a masterful interplay of bright freshness, opulent florals, exotic spices, and deep, resinous warmth. Every ingredient is carefully layered, creating a fragrance that evolves gracefully from sparkling citrus to a voluptuous floral heart and finally to a warm, sensual oriental base. It is romantic, intoxicating, and evocatively exotic, perfectly reflecting its namesake inspiration—the rare and precious kewra flower—and the elegant, adventurous spirit of early 1980s haute parfumerie.
"Sanofi's early cosmetics acquisitions included Parfums Jean Couturier, Parfums Molyneux, Roger et Gallet, Farina, Stendhal and Yves Rocher."
Le Spectacle du monde, 1983:
"Kéora. It is a flower of India, the "kéora" which inspired this latest creation of Parfums Jean Couturier . Prepared by Jacqueline Couturier, this scent is powerful, without provocation, to the bold notes, rich and subtle."
Product Line:
Keora was available in the following forms:
- 2.7 ml Parfum
- 7.5 ml Parfum
- 50 ml Eau de Parfum
- 2.7 ml Eau de Toilette
- 30 ml Eau de Toilette
- 50 ml Eau de Toilette
- 100 ml Eau de Toilette
- 200 ml Perfumed Body Lotion
In 1984/1985, Keora was available in the following:
- Parfum Presentations: Splash bottles (7.5ml)
- Related Products: Eau de Toilette splash bottles (100ml, 150ml); Spray bottles (50ml, 100ml)
Fate of the Fragrance:
Keora was reformulated at some time and many of the spices have been removed. You can find it in eau de toilette form in two sizes: 50m and 100ml and eau de parfum in 50ml.
