Showing posts with label Jardanel by Jean Desprez (1938). Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jardanel by Jean Desprez (1938). Show all posts

Sunday, September 7, 2014

Jardanel by Jean Desprez (1938)

Jardanel by Jean Desprez carries with it not only the scent of a bygone era, but also a deeply personal story of artistic persistence, independence, and the evolution of a master perfumer. Originally launched in 1938, then relaunched in 1944, Jardanel was one of Desprez’s earliest creations released under his own name—a bold step during a time of personal and professional transition. The name Jardanel (pronounced zhar-dah-NELL) is not a known word in French, but rather appears to be an invented term, likely formed by blending “jardin” (garden) with a soft, lyrical suffix—perhaps a feminine name like “Anel” or “Danel.” It evokes a poetic image: a secret garden, lush and fragrant, sheltered yet wild, and filled with memory. The word itself feels tender and floral, with an undercurrent of strength—much like the fragrance it represents.

The history of Jardanel stretches back to 1917, when Jean Desprez began developing its original formula during his formative years as a perfumer. He would go on to serve as chief perfumer at Parfums Millot in the early 1920s, and during that time the Jardanel composition was set aside. It may not have been fully realized, or perhaps Desprez, known for his perfectionist streak, continued refining it in private. Its structure—powdery aldehydic floral with a woody chypre base—was ahead of its time, combining modern synthetics with rich natural materials like citrus, leather, myrrh, Peru balsam, vetiver, and oakmoss. In fact, Jardanel may have served as a precursor to Crepe de Chine, the now-iconic chypre he composed for Millot in 1925. If so, it speaks to Jardanel’s role as a personal creative milestone, the template from which later masterpieces would spring.

By 1938, while still employed by Millot, Desprez quietly launched Jardanel along with a handful of other fragrances under his own name. This move likely ignited tension between him and the Millot family—especially if they viewed these creations as rightfully theirs. That tension may have prompted his eventual departure from Parfums Millot in either 1940 or 1942, at which point he officially established Parfums Jean Desprez. Unfortunately, his efforts to build the brand were quickly interrupted by the worsening conditions of World War II, which disrupted all luxury goods production in France.



The relaunch of Jardanel in 1944, amid postwar rebuilding, coincided with a time when women longed for beauty, normalcy, and a reconnection with the elegant rituals of femininity. The perfume, with its aldehydic top notes, floral heart, and balsamic, mossy chypre base, would have offered both sophistication and comfort—a powdery whisper of old-world luxury combined with modern flair. Its structure placed it firmly within the popular aldehydic floral trend of the time, popularized by Chanel No. 5 and others, yet Jardanel was distinctive for its earthy, resinous backbone. The inclusion of leather, Peru balsam, and myrrh gave the fragrance a grounding intensity, something intimate and tactile—sensual without being overtly sweet.

For women of the late 1930s and early 1940s, Jardanel would have felt deeply evocative. Its name suggested a private garden, hidden from the chaos of the world, blooming with memory and longing. It represented independence, elegance, and strength. In scent, Jardanel might have conjured the smooth polish of citrusy aldehydes giving way to graceful florals, layered over soft vetiver, moss, and resin—a structure both powdery and plush, modern yet rooted in classical form. Its signature would have lingered on the skin like the memory of silk gloves and cigarette smoke in a velvet-draped salon.

Though discontinued, Jardanel remained available into the postwar years, a quiet but cherished part of the Jean Desprez collection. Its relaunch in 1944 marked not only a return to perfumery, but a triumph of artistic identity. In the history of the house, Jardanel stands as both a statement of independence and a reminder of Desprez’s ability to balance technical brilliance with poetic vision.

Throughout the mid-1940s, Jardanel by Jean Desprez was not merely a perfume—it was a symbol of postwar French elegance, precision, and prestige. Desprez's house proudly advertised that Jardanel could be purchased only at their elegant flagship location at 17, rue de la Paix in Paris, or at the finest perfumeries in major cities across France. The exclusivity added allure, underscoring the perfume's elevated status and its position as a true luxury product in the immediate aftermath of World War II.

By 1945, Formes et couleurs described Jardanel with the phrase “ÉTOURDISSANT – VOTRE MAIN – JARDANEL,” listing it alongside the house’s most beloved creations, as though reciting an incantation of glamour. The association of these fragrances suggested a house style—elegant, romantic, yet refined. In the Official Gazette of the United States Patent Office (1946), the trademark for Jardanel was officially filed in late 1945 for use with both perfumes and rouges, indicating a broader cosmetic vision for the brand and confirming its commercial re-entry beginning in November 1944, right after the Liberation of Paris.

In the 1946 issue of La France libre, Jardanel was praised as a fragrance of exceptional taste and discernment, stating that to wear it would be to broadcast one's elegance and cultivated reputation like a halo. This lyrical language positioned Jardanel not only as a scent, but as a personal statement—quiet, assured, and unmistakably Parisian.

Across the Atlantic, The Bermudian (1946) offered Jardanel, along with Desprez’s Votre Main and Etourdissant, as ideal Christmas gifts, presented in festive white boxes with red and green accents. These perfumes, ranging from $8 to $78, reflected both luxury and attainability—offering different sizes and presentations to meet various gift-giving occasions, while maintaining the integrity of a French-imported product.

In 1947, Shapes & Colors reiterated that Jardanel could only be purchased at the Jean Desprez boutique in Paris or top-tier French perfumeries, once again reinforcing its exclusivity and refined reputation. The magazine called Desprez the “Parfumeur of Peace,” a poignant epithet in a postwar world, where a perfume could offer not only beauty but comfort and a return to ritual.

The Book of Friendship (1947) showcased Jardanel among Desprez’s growing portfolio, including the perfume Grande Dame and face powder, Poudre de Beauté. This passage emphasized the house’s commitment to French origin and craftsmanship, stating that all perfumes were “entirely bottled, packaged and sealed in the country of origin,” a guarantee that spoke directly to postwar consumers' renewed interest in authenticity and artistry.

Finally, a poetic reflection in La Dépêche tunisienne (1949) linked perfume to deeper symbolic expression. “A perfume is a symbol... it expresses what it is made of,” the article said, implying that a fine perfume must have depth and character—qualities found in Jean Desprez’s creations. Jardanel, alongside Etourdissant and Votre Main, was hailed as a perfume that could delight the “most difficult women” not only in Paris, but around the world.

These rich references illustrate how Jardanel became a beacon of Parisian style and resilience, a perfume that defined taste in both its scent and its symbolism, bridging the elegance of prewar France with the refined optimism of the postwar era.


Fate of the Fragrance:


The fate of Jardanel—one of Jean Desprez’s earliest and most personal creations—took a complicated turn after its initial run. Though it was still being promoted and sold into the late 1940s, evidence suggests that Jardanel was quietly withdrawn from production sometime during the 1950s, perhaps due to shifting market preferences or Jean Desprez’s own perfectionist tendencies. What followed was a confusing chapter in the fragrance’s history.

In 1953, a French company called Jean Dorlys introduced what appeared to be an intentional imitation of Jardanel in eau de cologne form. More than a coincidence, this version mimicked the original Desprez branding with fonts and packaging design that closely resembled those used by Parfums Jean Desprez. For the casual consumer—or even the trained eye not paying close attention—the imitation might have passed as an official release. It was a form of visual deception, blurring brand identity at a time when trademark protections were still inconsistently enforced. This episode reflects both the esteem in which Jardanel was held and the vulnerability of fragrance houses to counterfeiting and imitation during that era.





In an interview given in 1968, Jean Desprez himself addressed the complexities of naming perfumes and the increasing competition among fragrance manufacturers. He mentioned that the National Office of French Perfumery had registered close to 40,000 names reserved by various perfume houses for potential future use. In a revealing moment, Desprez admitted that he initially chose not to patent the name Bal à Versailles, believing it was “too obvious”—an insight into his artistic rather than commercial mindset. However, he did confirm that the newest name he had officially registered was Jardanel, indicating that despite the fragrance’s earlier incarnation, he considered this to be an unfinished project worthy of revisiting.



Desprez described the intended vision for Jardanel as a fragrance meant to evoke “the heady scent of a spring garden, drowsy under the midday sun.” Its formula, he revealed, was composed of an expensive and opulent floral heart—dominated by jasmine—resting atop a warm, velvety oriental base of vetiver, patchouli, and sandalwood. This reimagining of Jardanel was meant to enhance and refine the earlier structure from the 1930s, creating a scent that would be both timeless and transporting—a garden in full bloom, wrapped in sun-dappled shadows.

Tragically, Jean Desprez passed away before this final version of Jardanel could be launched. It is said that he perfected the new chypre accord just a few months prior to his death, never getting to see the fragrance reintroduced to the public. As such, Jardanel remains one of the most enigmatic entries in the Jean Desprez portfolio—a perfume both born and reborn, yet never fully realized in his lifetime. It represents not just the evolution of a scent, but the creative arc of a perfumer who never ceased striving for olfactory perfection.


1972 Reformulation & Private Relaunch:


Jardanel experienced a notable and elegant revival in 1972, when it was reissued as a limited edition, specially curated for Stanley Marcus, the visionary president of Neiman-Marcus. This reintroduction was not a mere commercial gesture—it was part of a much larger cultural celebration known as French Fortnight, a prestigious two-week event held each October by Neiman-Marcus in Dallas. First introduced in 1962, French Fortnight was designed to immerse American shoppers in the refined elegance of French culture, and by the 1970s had become a much-anticipated annual tradition.

The 1972 French Fortnight was organized in collaboration with the Cultural Services of the French Embassy, underscoring the event’s diplomatic and cultural weight. Jardanel was chosen for inclusion in this showcase not simply as a perfume, but as a symbol of timeless Parisian sophistication and a tribute to the artistry of the late Jean Desprez. The perfume stood among other highlights of the event: couture clothing from top Paris fashion houses, fine French accessories, wines, cheeses, furnishings, and periodicals—a veritable marketplace of French style and luxury.

Within this context, Jardanel was more than a fragrance; it was a sensory bridge between France and America, reminding patrons of Neiman-Marcus not only of Paris’s place as the epicenter of fashion and beauty but also of the long cultural ties shared between the two countries. The perfume’s reissue for French Fortnight brought Desprez’s elegant creation back into the spotlight, allowing a new generation of women—particularly those in the United States—to experience a piece of French olfactory heritage. As a limited edition, it further underscored Jardanel’s mystique and rarity, reinforcing its legacy as one of the house’s most personal and elusive creations.



1973 Public Relaunch:


In 1973, Jardanel was quietly and reverently reintroduced to the public—this time as a silent tribute by Denis Desprez to his father, Jean Desprez, who had died before seeing the fragrance perfected and released. It marked more than the revival of a perfume; it was the return of a deeply personal project, one that had lingered in the wings of the Desprez family history for decades. Denis launched it with characteristic restraint and idealism, favoring quality and word-of-mouth over grand marketing campaigns. “I do not offer it with the fanfare of a lot of advertising and promotion… I give it advertising only after it is acceptable,” he explained in a 1976 interview, emphasizing his belief in letting the perfume speak for itself.

The name Jardanel held nostalgic weight. Denis revealed that it was inspired by a real estate in the center of France, a charming old property that Jean Desprez had once visited and grown deeply fond of. “He so loved the people, the place, the gardens and the house that he decided to name his perfume Jardanel so that he could keep alive the pleasant memories.” This backstory gave the fragrance a romantic anchor in the French countryside, evoking rolling green gardens, tranquil terraces, and the elusive beauty of memory.

While Jardanel was thoroughly French in heritage and sensibility, its reintroduction was tested first in the United States—a strategic and forward-thinking move. “French women are too unenterprising and routine-minded,” Denis Desprez remarked in 1974. “We need reactions from more adventurous girls, with a sense of initiative.” America, with its openness to experimentation and new luxury, became the proving ground. As Denis said plainly, “When a new scent works in the US, we know we can sell it in France.”

In terms of composition, Jardanel was described as “a romantic, unique and sensual scent, composed of rare essences from the flower fields of Grasse and the Far East.” Its structure followed the floral-chypre model, underscored by a generous use of rich balsamic notes and powdery aldehydes, lending it both warmth and elegance. This placed it comfortably within the tradition of classic French perfumery, yet its rarity and complexity set it apart from mass-market offerings of the time.

The price point was equally bold. At its launch in 1973, Jardanel was priced at $100 per ounce—a figure that translates to over $750 in 2025’s dollars. Even three years later, during a period of economic turbulence, the price remained unchanged, which would equate to roughly $578 today. Denis Desprez responded candidly to the question of cost: “Do I have to justify it? Still, I can try. When you can make Rolls Royce, you don’t make Cadillac.” He viewed perfume not simply as a product but as a form of emotional luxury. “Fragrance buys a bit of a dream, and during the time you smell it, it keeps away the bad.” He recounted his own student days in America, when splurging on a fine French meal kept his spirits alive. In the same way, Jardanel was designed to offer psychological uplift through olfactory beauty.

To maintain exclusivity, Desprez personally oversaw distribution, limiting the fragrance to just 140 fine stores across the United States. “My fragrances are at home only in such fine stores as this (Rich’s),” he said, underscoring his desire to preserve the dignity and refinement of the brand. Jardanel was not simply a perfume; it was a personal legacy, a cultural bridge, and a quiet affirmation of luxury, even in uncertain times.

In 1977, the perfume world took notice when Jardanel by Jean Desprez re-entered the market as a luxurious return to classical perfumery, echoing the craftsmanship and olfactory storytelling that had made Bal à Versailles a celebrated icon. In a glowing feature in Playbill, Jardanel was elevated to the “damn-the-expense class” of perfumery—a nod to its unapologetic richness and high price point. The publication praised it as “an absolutely sumptuous classic floral, woven together like éclat,” drawing attention to the flawless blending of its elements, a hallmark of the Desprez house.

Meanwhile, Soap magazine provided a more technical appreciation of Jardanel, describing it as a “heavy perfume of the old school”, one that displayed the refined technique and vision of the same perfumer who created Bal à Versailles. The perfume was introduced with a sense of nostalgia and reverence for tradition—what the brand itself described as a "retour au classique," or a return to classicism. Its packaging evoked the era of 1910, with design elements that visually aligned with the Belle Époque, a golden age of perfumery known for lush, emotional compositions and ornate presentation.

The fragrance itself unfolded in a rich, multi-phase evolution on the skin. It opened with dry floral notes tinged with moss, suggesting clarity and restraint, before quickly deepening into a powerful chypre accord—earthy, slightly bitter, and unmistakably sophisticated. As the scent settled, it revealed a dense and resinous labdanum heart, described as “extremely lasting”, providing the fragrance with a long, enveloping sillage and a sense of sensual permanence.

Jardanel was, in every sense, a fragrance built for connoisseurs, intended to appeal to those who longed for complexity, structure, and timeless elegance in an era where many perfumes were beginning to lean toward minimalism and freshness. It was a statement piece, bold and refined, a scent that could only be worn with confidence—and likely, couture.



Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? Jardanel by Jean Desprez is classified as a powdery aldehydic floral woody chypre fragrance for women with rich balsamic notes. It starts off with a fresh aldehydic top, followed by a classic, elegant floral heart, resting on a sensual, sweet balsamic base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian neroli, Tunisian orange, fruity note accord
  • Middle notes: Alpine lily of the valley, French carnation, orchid, Madagascar ylang ylang, Sudanese myrrh, Bulgarian rose, Grasse jasmine, Provencal honey, Grasse narcissus
  • Base notes: Bourbon vanilla, Siam benzoin, South American tolu balsam, Omani frankincense, Maltese cistus labdanum, Ethiopian civet, Venezuelan tonka bean, Malaysian patchouli, leather, Yugoslavian oakmoss, ambergris, Tonkin musk, Haitian vetiver, Mysore sandalwood and Peru balsam

Jardanel is a green-woody fragrance built on a base of jasmine, rose, orange blossom, neroli, oakmoss, patchouli, and Indian sandalwood, enriched with ambergris and Tonkin musk. Presented in keeping with the great tradition of French perfumery, it is a younger creation, yet crafted with the same care and refinement that characterize the Jean Desprez brand. Developed according to the same principles as Bal à Versailles, Jardanel is intended for a clientele seeking a fragrance that is classic in spirit while being less elaborate and more understated.



Scent Profile:


Jardanel by Jean Desprez unfolds like a slow movement in an orchestral symphony—layer upon layer of meticulously blended materials, each adding its own timbre, weight, and emotion. Classified as a powdery aldehydic floral woody chypre with rich balsamic undertones, Jardanel is no mere fragrance—it is an olfactory tapestry, woven with the intricacy and passion of haute parfumerie.

Upon first breath, the opening is crisp and luminous, thanks to a vivid aldehydic burst. These fizzy, sparkling aldehydes do not merely shimmer—they electrify the senses, evoking starched white linen or cool morning air. These synthetics enhance the brilliance of the top notes, lifting the citrus with effervescence and adding a polished, abstract radiance. Alongside, Calabrian bergamot brings a sharp, aromatic brightness. The bergamot from this southern Italian region is prized for its complex balance of sweetness and green bitterness, grown in a microclimate that heightens its aromatic oils. Sicilian neroli, extracted from the bitter orange blossom, adds a sweet, slightly green floralcy—its bitterness tempered by the Mediterranean sun. Tunisian orange lends juicier, riper citrus depth, rounding out the top with a sun-warmed sweetness. A subtle fruity accord flickers in the background—suggesting golden peach skin, pear nectar, or perhaps overripe plum—infusing the top with subtle lushness.

As the aldehydes gently fade, the heart blooms in classical elegance. There is a remarkable Alpine lily of the valley note here, sheer and fresh like a breeze through spring meadows—but never overly delicate. It is gently grounded by French carnation, which adds a spicy, clove-like snap. Madagascar ylang ylang, creamy and narcotic, melts into the composition with its exotic floral curves, giving roundness to the bouquet. Orchid contributes a soft, powdery sweetness, while Grasse jasmine and Bulgarian rose—both among the most coveted floral materials in perfumery—add sumptuousness and depth. Jasmine from Grasse is celebrated for its buttery warmth, while Bulgarian rose brings a lemony-green nuance alongside its velvety petals. Grasse narcissus introduces a subtle animalic facet, green and heady, while Sudanese myrrh adds a haunting balsamic bitterness, hinting at incense and ancient rituals. Woven into the heart is a drizzle of Provencal honey, golden and slightly resinous, which enrobes the florals in a tactile sweetness, like warm skin kissed by sunlight.

Then, Jardanel descends into an opulent, ambery base—where the chypre character truly takes form. The sweetness of Bourbon vanilla (from Réunion Island) and Siam benzoin creates a velvety warmth. Benzoin, a resin with soft vanilla and almond notes, harmonizes with South American tolu balsam, which adds depth and a gentle smoky richness. Peruvian balsam, with its warm, cinnamon-laced vanilla scent, enhances the syrupy base with its treacly texture. Omani frankincense, revered for its clarity and sparkle, lends a dry, resinous backbone that lifts the denser elements, preventing heaviness. Maltese cistus labdanum imparts a leathery, ambered quality, mingling beautifully with the leather accord, which echoes the traditional French heritage of glove-perfumers.

Animalic notes slink through the base: Ethiopian civet, warm and musky; ambergris, marine and slightly salty; and Tonkin musk, adding depth and sensuality. Venezuelan tonka bean, rich in coumarin, adds a note of sweet hay and almond. Malaysian patchouli, dark and earthy, anchors the florals with a sense of mystery, while Haitian vetiver brings dryness and elegance, its smoky greenness reminiscent of sun-dried grass. Yugoslavian oakmoss, crucial to the chypre structure, lends its characteristic forest floor dampness—cool, mineralic, and mossy. Finally, Mysore sandalwood, creamy, warm, and resinous, wraps the composition in its milky-soft serenity, linking all the threads together.

Jardanel is not just a perfume—it is a perfumed memory of gardens, tapestries, and French estates, full of whispered traditions and timeless beauty. Every note is deliberate. Every shift in tone is intentional. It is an olfactory portrait of elegance, drawn in layers of powder, bloom, shadow, and light.



Bottles:



PARFUM:



Modele Pratique:

The Modele Pratique presentation for Jardanel by Jean Desprez reflected the resourceful elegance of wartime and immediate post-war France. Designed during a time of restricted access to luxury materials, this version of the perfume flacon was a simplified alternative to the elaborate crystal bottles previously used—yet it still maintained the maison’s distinctive refinement. The flacon was a square French crystal-inspired form, molded in colorless pressed glass, shaped with a crisp cubic profile and topped with a flat trapezoidal stopper. The silhouette, while economical, retained classical proportions that echoed the sophistication of earlier Desprez creations.

Each Modele Pratique bottle was housed in one of two types of boxes. The first was a balsa wood case, lightly structured and finished with decorative braid—a nod to artisanal packaging that, while modest, still conveyed hand-crafted luxury. The second version was a cardboard terminal box, covered in a polychrome printed paper embellished with scrolling designs and ornamental interlacing, lending a decorative flair that belied the more practical nature of the flacon within. These same bottles were also used for Jean Desprez's other early creations, including Étourdissant, Votre Main, and Grand Dame, suggesting a streamlined house aesthetic during a time of economic austerity.

A fascinating detail was the labeling system, which provided a visual cue to the perfume’s more opulent lineage. Jardanel’s label was illustrated with an image of a luxury flacon made of Sèvres porcelain—a fantastical perfume bottle imagined as an openworked marble flower basket atop a pedestal, echoing 18th-century French artistry. The pedestal depicted on this label would later influence the design of the 1969 limited edition “Janusette” bottle for Bal à Versailles, showing the continuity and artistic referencing within the Jean Desprez line. Labels for other Modele Pratique perfumes similarly depicted their intended Sèvres or Baccarat flacons, creating a visual bridge between the simplified wartime models and the more elaborate originals.

Even more unusual was a version of the flacon featuring a wooden label—an extremely rare and tactile choice, possibly used to emphasize craftsmanship or to echo the balsa presentation. This decision again illustrates how, even when constrained by material shortages, Jean Desprez prioritized aesthetic detail and tactile luxury.

Printed inside the box was a declaration of authorship and protection:
"All my perfumes, regardless of the original models, are presented in the 'Practical Model.' These creations are my property and any imitator will be prosecuted in accordance with the law. Etourdissant - Votre Main - Jardanel - Grand Dame - Parfums de Jean Desprez. 17 rue de la Paix. Made in France."
This was not only a branding affirmation but also a legal safeguard—underscoring the originality of Jean Desprez’s designs and the seriousness with which he viewed imitation, particularly during a period when counterfeiting could flourish due to scarcity.

The Modele Pratique flacon stands as a testament to the resilience of French perfumery under duress—elegant in its simplicity, rich in contextual meaning, and firmly grounded in the maison’s aesthetic identity.





Modele Classique:


The classic Jardanel flacon from the 1973 relaunch was a refined tribute to the perfume’s long and intricate history, paying homage to its early 20th-century origins with a design that felt both nostalgic and luxuriously timeless. The bottle itself featured a distinctive silhouette—a long, slender neck tapering gracefully into a rounded, bulbous base. This elegant curvature not only evoked femininity but also recalled the shapes favored in Edwardian-era perfume bottles, making the design feel appropriate to the fragrance’s origin, which dated back to 1917.

The parfum concentration was fitted with a traditional ground glass stopper, a hallmark of high-end perfumery, ensuring both a precise seal and an artisanal touch that elevated the flacon's presentation. However, for practical and possibly more affordable editions—particularly the 0.25 oz size—a version with a plastic screw cap was also produced. While simpler, this version retained the graceful lines of the full-sized flacon and provided accessibility without compromising too heavily on the elegance.

What truly distinguished these bottles was their round paper label, adorned with a polychrome illustration of a woman styled in flowing Art Nouveau lines. Her delicate features, elongated proportions, and romantic pose were unmistakably inspired by the aesthetic ideals of the Belle Époque and Edwardian periods, further grounding Jardanel in a sense of historic French artistry and refinement. The label served as a visual storytelling device—suggesting that Jardanel was more than a perfume; it was a memory revived, a scent meant to embody an era of grace, poise, and intricate beauty.

This relaunch flacon from the 1970s blended classical motifs with updated practicality, creating a vessel that resonated with the past while feeling entirely at home in the world of refined modern perfumery.


The 0.25 oz flacon of Jardanel parfum, while smaller in scale, was no less thoughtfully designed. Unlike its larger counterparts, this version did not bear the ornate round paper label with the Art Nouveau woman. Instead, it was marked with sleek black serigraphy directly on the glass—a stylistic shift that gave it a slightly more modern appearance, while still preserving the elegance of its curving silhouette. The absence of the label allowed the soft amber glow of the perfume to shine through uninterrupted, giving it a clean, minimal look that contrasted with the romantic styling of earlier editions.

The packaging of Jardanel during the 1970s was equally nuanced. The parfum bottles were housed in deep green presentation boxes, a departure from the red and gold tones often associated with other Jean Desprez fragrances like Bal à Versailles. Some of these green boxes were adorned with the round paper label, while others bore hot-stamped images—metallic impressions pressed into the surface of the box. Based on surviving examples, it appears that the earliest green boxes carried the paper labels, reinforcing a sense of old-world charm, while the hot-stamped versions came slightly later and reflect a subtle modernization of the packaging.

A 1977 issue of Soap magazine described Jardanel as “retour au classique”—a return to classic—and noted that the packaging evoked the style of 1910, echoing the bottle’s homage to the Edwardian period. This was no coincidence. The entire presentation, from the flacon shape to the illustrative motifs and rich green boxes, was meant to revive the spirit of perfume as it once was—artful, rarefied, and intimate.

The parfum was released in several sizes, each reflecting a corresponding level of luxury and price:

  • 1/8 oz “smelling salts” bottle – A round flacon, petite and charming, ideal for the handbag or travel. It retailed for $18 in 1975, $20 in 1977, and $23 in 1981.
  • 1/4 oz flacon – Measuring about 3 inches tall, this was the most commonly encountered size and retailed for $35–$42.50 across the same years.
  • 1/2 oz flacon – Standing 4 inches tall, this bottle struck a balance between indulgence and practicality. It was originally $50, then $60 in 1975, and $65 by 1977.
  • 1 oz flacon – The full-size presentation, at 5 1/8 inches tall, reflected the fragrance’s luxury positioning. It launched at $65 in 1972, rose to $80 in 1974, $100 in 1975, and finally $115 by 1977.
  • 2 oz flacon – Standing 6 inches tall, this was the largest size available in the standard range and rarely encountered today. Its pricing followed the exclusive nature of the perfume, appealing to true connoisseurs.

Each size was meant to serve a different purpose—from intimate personal use to gift-worthy grandeur—yet all carried the unmistakable mark of Jean Desprez's dedication to craftsmanship, artistry, and olfactory refinement.

























PARFUM DE TOILETTE:



The Parfum de Toilette edition of Jardanel debuted in 1974, expanding the fragrance’s reach to women who desired a lighter concentration while still maintaining the elegance of the original parfum. Housed in the same long-necked bottle as the extrait, the Parfum de Toilette retained the flacon's distinctive shape—graceful and feminine, with a bulbous base tapering upward into an elegant neck that suggested refinement and continuity of design. These bottles could be found fitted either with a frosted glass stopper or a more practical plastic screw cap, accommodating both traditionalist collectors and modern users seeking ease of use.

Each flacon was adorned with a round paper label, printed in polychrome and depicting a stylized Art Nouveau woman, her softly undulating hair and vintage dress evoking the Edwardian era, a subtle tribute to the perfume's original conceptual origins dating back to 1917. The image wasn't merely decorative; it positioned Jardanel within a lineage of classic French perfumery and romantic memory, reinforcing the idea of “retour au classique”—a return to the grace of another time.

The packaging continued the signature look established for Jardanel: rich green boxes that either bore the round paper label or were decorated with hot-stamped images pressed in metallic foil. Based on surviving examples, the earliest boxes featured the paper labels, suggesting that the hot-stamped version emerged later as the packaging design evolved. This dual presentation maintained visual cohesion while allowing for subtle shifts in style over the product’s lifespan.

Two sizes of the Parfum de Toilette splash bottle were offered:

  • The 2.5 oz bottle, standing approximately 6 1/8 inches tall, was the more commonly encountered size. It originally retailed for $35, and as the decade progressed, rose to $45 by 1976, and $50 in 1977—still a premium price point that emphasized Jardanel’s luxury status.
  • The 5 oz bottle, taller at 8 inches, was a grander presentation and retailed for $65, matching the cost of the 1 oz extrait parfum in earlier years.

These splash bottles were not merely utilitarian—they were meant to be kept and displayed, their elegant forms and nostalgic imagery transforming a practical product into a keepsake. Through both its scent and design, the Parfum de Toilette form of Jardanel continued Jean Desprez’s tradition of blending art, memory, and olfactory beauty into a singular, enduring creation.








EAU DE COLOGNE:



The Eau de Cologne Deluxe edition of Jardanel is a testament to the elegance and refinement characteristic of Jean Desprez's luxury fragrances during the 1970s and 1980s. This version is presented in a luxurious crystal bottle, reflecting the brand’s commitment to timeless craftsmanship and high-quality presentation. The bottle’s clear crystal construction allows the delicate hues of the fragrance to shine through, elevating the visual appeal and inviting collectors and connoisseurs alike to appreciate its beauty as much as its scent.

Interestingly, this very same crystal flacon design was also used for the Parfum de Toilette Deluxe edition of another iconic Jean Desprez fragrance, Bal a Versailles, emphasizing a cohesive luxury aesthetic across the brand’s deluxe lines. On the base of each bottle, the words “Jean Desprez Made in France” are molded into the crystal, signaling authenticity and the proud French heritage synonymous with high-end perfumery.

The Eau de Cologne Deluxe was offered in multiple sizes, each thoughtfully designed to cater to different preferences and uses, while maintaining an elegant form factor:

  • The largest size, 9 oz, stands impressively tall at 8.5 inches, serving as a statement piece on any vanity or dresser.
  • The 4.5 oz bottle, at 7.5 inches tall, balances substantial volume with graceful proportions.
  • The 2.5 oz size, measuring 6 inches in height, offers a more portable yet still visually striking option.
  • The smallest size, 1.5 oz, stands 5.25 inches tall, perfect for those desiring a compact but luxurious bottle.

Together, these sizes reflect a versatile range while maintaining a unified and sophisticated design language. The Eau de Cologne Deluxe flacon embodies the blend of luxury, tradition, and functionality that defines Jean Desprez’s approach to fragrance packaging, allowing the wearer to experience refinement not just through scent, but through every detail of the bottle itself.




Jardanel was also offered in a distinctive narrow, rectangular bottle design, marked by its elegant simplicity and practicality. This version housed the Eau de Cologne Splash, introduced in 1977, catering to those who preferred a lighter, fresher expression of the fragrance. The bottle featured a gold-tone screw cap, adding a subtle touch of luxury while ensuring secure closure and ease of use. This design choice emphasized both functionality and refined aesthetics, appealing to a wide audience during the late 1970s.

The Eau de Cologne Splash was packaged in white boxes embossed with the iconic Jardanel lady’s head image, a delicate and evocative motif that referenced the fragrance’s heritage and the feminine elegance associated with the Jean Desprez brand. The embossed detail on the boxes lent a tactile sense of quality and tradition, reinforcing the perfume’s classic identity in a modern market.

This fragrance format was made available in several convenient sizes, allowing consumers to select according to their preference or need:
  • The 2 oz Eau de Cologne Splash, which originally retailed for $12.50, was ideal for everyday use or travel.
  • The 4 oz bottle, at $20, offered a balanced volume for those who wanted more longevity without sacrificing portability.
  • The 8 oz size, priced at $30, served as a more generous offering, suited for those who desired a lasting supply of this fresh and invigorating scent.

Together, these options ensured that Jardanel’s Eau de Cologne Splash was accessible and appealing, blending classic sophistication with the practicality demanded by fragrance lovers of the era.




EAU DE TOILETTE:



The Jardanel Eau de Toilette was thoughtfully designed for modern convenience and elegance, offered in a spray form that allowed for effortless and precise application. This format reflected the evolving preferences of fragrance consumers in the mid-to-late 20th century, who increasingly favored the practicality and controlled dispersion provided by aerosol sprays.

The fragrance was housed in white opaline bottles, lending a soft, luminous quality to the container that beautifully complemented the delicate, powdery nature of Jardanel itself. The opaline finish not only elevated the bottle’s aesthetic but also served a functional purpose, gently diffusing light to protect the perfume from premature degradation caused by exposure.

Each bottle was equipped with an aerosol spray mechanism, designed to deliver a fine, even mist for an optimal scent experience. This modern touch enhanced user convenience, making it easy to apply just the right amount of fragrance, whether for daily wear or special occasions.

The bottles were presented in green boxes, a classic and understated choice that harmonized with the perfume’s sophisticated heritage. The packaging balanced tradition and refinement, offering an inviting presentation that reflected the elegance and timelessness of the Jardanel fragrance.

One notable size available in this format was the 5.5 oz Eau de Toilette Spray, a generous volume that provided ample supply for the fragrance enthusiast who valued both luxury and practicality.





In 1977/1978, Jardanel was available in the following:
  • Parfum Presentations: Bottles (0.12 oz, 0.25 oz, 0.5 oz, 1 oz, 2 oz); Parfum Atomizer (0.33 oz)
  • Related Products: Parfum de Toilette splash bottles (1.25 oz, 2.50 oz, 5 oz)



Fate of the Fragrance:



Unfortunately, despite its refined composition and elegant presentation, Jardanel was discontinued not long after its 1970s relaunch. The primary reason for this was the exorbitant cost associated with reproducing the fragrance. The luxurious and carefully selected raw materials, along with the craftsmanship involved in its creation, made ongoing production financially challenging to sustain, especially in an era when market demands were shifting and cost-efficiency became a significant factor for many perfume houses.

However, the fragrance still remained available on the market through at least 1983, reflecting a continued, albeit limited, presence among loyal connoisseurs and collectors. This period marked the final chapter of Jardanel’s availability in its original form, leaving behind a legacy as a rare and cherished scent, valued for both its artistic merit and its embodiment of classic French perfumery traditions.

Welcome!

Welcome to my unique perfume blog! Here, you'll find detailed, encyclopedic entries about perfumes and companies, complete with facts and photos for easy research. This site is not affiliated with any perfume companies; it's a reference source for collectors and enthusiasts who cherish classic fragrances. My goal is to highlight beloved, discontinued classics and show current brand owners the demand for their revival. Your input is invaluable! Please share why you liked a fragrance, describe its scent, the time period you wore it, any memorable occasions, or what it reminded you of. Did a relative wear it, or did you like the bottle design? Your stories might catch the attention of brand representatives. I regularly update posts with new information and corrections. Your contributions help keep my entries accurate and comprehensive. Please comment and share any additional information you have. Together, we can keep the legacy of classic perfumes alive!

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