Poison officially debuted in Paris in 1985, though trademark records indicate that the name had been secured two years earlier, in 1983. Its arrival marked a radical departure for Parfums Christian Dior. For decades, the house had relied on fragrances that carried the Dior name directly in their titles—Diorella, Diorama, Dioressence, Diorissimo, Dior-Dior, Miss Dior. The failure of Dior-Dior had already prompted a major corporate restructuring in the mid-1970s, leaving pressure on the brand to reassert its authority in the fragrance world. By the early 1980s, Dior’s perfume portfolio was perceived as losing its edge. Poison was conceived as the bold and uncompromising antidote.
Why “Poison”? A Name Designed to Stop Time:
The Launch: Shock, Strategy, and Spectacle:
Public Reactions: Shock, Fascination, and Unease:
Interpreting “Poison” as a Scent:
To translate the charged, provocative name Poison into olfactory form, Dior aimed for a fragrance that felt as transgressive and unforgettable as its title. The house classified Poison as a soft oriental fragrance for women, a category known for warmth, sensuality, and enveloping depth. Its composition opened with an unexpected mix of Russian coriander, Malaysian pepper, Ceylonese cinnamon, and lush fruity notes of wild berries. This striking introduction flowed into a heart shaped by orange blossom and honeyed amber tones of labdanum, creating a scent that felt both intoxicating and disarmingly rich.
The name came long before the formula. Maurice Roger, Dior’s international company president, had licensed the word Poison more than three years before the fragrance launched. Confident that the title alone carried dramatic power, he challenged his team to develop “a revolutionary fragrance, unlike any which had gone before.” Over the next several years, Dior evaluated nearly 800 sample scents from independent perfumers in an attempt to match the audacity of the name with an equally daring composition.
The final creation came from Edouard Fléchier of Roure Bertrand DuPont. His mauve-colored formula combined wild berries, orange blossom, honey, Ceylonese cinnamon, Russian coriander, Malaysian pepper, amber, opoponax, and cistus labdanum. The blend was so unconventional that Dior boasted “it does not yet have a branch on the fragrance tree.” Internally, the company viewed it as “the most audacious scent they had ever created,” a perfume that pushed far beyond the familiar structures of contemporary florals and orientals.
The Role of Synthetics: A New Dimension of Intensity:
But the true structural anchor was methyl anthranilate, used in great concentration. Known for its lush orange-blossom and tuberose character, this material amplified Poison’s narcotic floral intensity and gave the fragrance its unmistakable, expansive aura. The result was a perfume that projected boldly, lingered powerfully, and felt almost otherworldly—qualities that aligned perfectly with a scent named after something dangerous, tempting, and potent.
Uniqueness or Continuation of a Trend?
Yet its structure and execution made it distinctly original. Few fragrances at the time fused such dense fruit notes with heavy spice, resinous amber materials, and narcotic white-floral synthetics at this scale. The combination of wild berries with pepper, coriander, cinnamon, honey, and labdanum created an unusually dark, velvety, and pulsating character. The scent was neither a straightforward oriental nor a typical floral—it belonged to no established category. Dior’s claim that it “does not yet have a branch on the fragrance tree” reflected the genuine difficulty of classifying it.
Compared with its contemporaries, Poison felt more extreme, more atmospheric, and more unapologetically intense. It followed the decade’s trend toward bold luxury, yet its composition marked a clear departure from the scent architectures commonly used in the period. In effect, it fulfilled Maurice Roger’s demand for a fragrance as revolutionary as its name—one that could stand alone, provoke curiosity, and reshape expectations of what a modern oriental could be.
Fragrance Composition:
- Top notes: aldehydes, West Indian pimento, bay, Sicilian mandarin, Zanzibar clove, plum, Calabrian bergamot, Malaysian pepper and Russian coriander
- Middle notes: Ceylonese cinnamon, French carnation, wild berries, Tunisian orange blossom, Provencal honey, lily of the valley, Grasse rose, French orris, myrrh, peach and Egyptian jasmine
- Base notes: Abyssinian civet, ambergris, incense, Tibetan musk, benzoin, labdanum, myrrh, opoponax, Canadian castoreum, Atlas cedar and Mysore sandalwood
Scent Profile:
Smelling Poison for the first time is like stepping into a chamber where warm air is saturated with spice, fruit, and shadow. Classified as a soft oriental, it begins with a rush of aldehydes—modern, airy molecules that smell fizzy, slightly waxy, and shimmering, as if the surface of the fragrance were lit from within. In Poison, aldehyde C18 lends a creamy, almost peach-skin glow, softening the intensity of the darker notes to come. This shimmering lift immediately mingles with the aromatic fire of West Indian pimento and bay. Pimento berries from the Caribbean are prized for their multifaceted character: a single berry smells simultaneously of clove, cinnamon, and pepper, creating a spicy warmth that feels both exotic and comforting.
Zanzibar clove adds another dimension—sharper, deeper, and more resinous than other clove varieties. Clove from Zanzibar is renowned for its high eugenol content, which gives it a commanding medicinal-spicy bite. Here it foreshadows the floral-carnation heart to come. Sicilian mandarin and Calabrian bergamot brighten this opening with Mediterranean sunlight—mandarin offering sweet, juicy radiance, while bergamot delivers a refined green-citrus profile, smoother and more elegant than other citrus fruits grown elsewhere. Their fleeting brightness draws attention to the darker spices beneath.
From Malaysia comes a pepper that is distinctly citrusy and bright, less abrasive than black pepper grown in other regions. Its sparkle interacts beautifully with Russian coriander, a herbaceous, slightly nutty spice with a soft, floral edge; coriander seeds cultivated in Russia are admired for their cool, clean aromatics that lack the sharpness found in warmer climates. Together they create a spiced top that feels simultaneously cool and hot, like breathing in perfumed steam.
Plum and wild berries swell through this spiced mist, dark and syrupy, the fruit note deepened by gamma-decalactone, a peachy lactone that smells velvety and milky, lending ripe fleshiness. Methyl salicylate contributes a green, minty, wintergreen-like quality that sharpens the berries’ sweetness and keeps them from becoming cloying. In these opening minutes, the fruitiness feels dense and nocturnal, like crushed berries on satin.
As the top notes settle, Poison blooms into its voluptuous middle—a floral heart of extraordinary density. Tunisian orange blossom is the first to rise, lush and narcotic, sweeter and thicker than orange blossom grown in other regions. It is amplified by methyl anthranilate, a powerful natural-synthetic bridge molecule that smells like orange blossom with undertones of Concord grapes, tuberose, and night-blooming flowers. This material magnifies the floral radiance until it becomes almost incandescent.
French carnation follows, bringing its clove-like eugenol brightness and spicy warmth. Carnation from France is admired for its smoothness—never harsh, never medicinal—and in Poison it intertwines with Ceylonese cinnamon. Cinnamon from Sri Lanka (ancient Ceylon) is softer and sweeter than the cassia-type cinnamon found elsewhere; it carries a golden, almost buttery warmth that seems to melt into the honeyed heart.
Then comes Provencal honey—a sun-thickened, aromatic sweetness that feels both edible and floral, its pollen-rich warmth connecting naturally to the rose from Grasse, a region synonymous with exceptional rose cultivation. Grasse rose has a lemony brightness and green undertone that makes it feel almost three-dimensional. Egyptian jasmine adds its opulent, indolic depth; jasmine from Egypt is famed for its richness and body, often described as fruitier and more sensual than jasmine from India or the Mediterranean.
French orris brings the powdery-soft scent of violet petals and warm earth. True aged orris butter is one of perfumery’s most prized materials—its buttery, suede-like texture binding florals and spices into a seamless whole. Lily of the valley contributes its crystalline green-floral freshness, though in Poison it is largely achieved through synthetic molecules that replicate the dewy, airy character of the real flower. Peach lactones provide velvety sweetness, deepening the fruit tones from the top. Drifting underneath all this is myrrh—warm, resinous, balsamic, with a faint medicinal shadow. Myrrh adds depth to the honey and makes the flowers feel darker, more mysterious, and dramatically sensual.
As Poison settles on the skin, it moves into a base that is dense, resinous, and glowing. This is where the fragrance reveals its true oriental soul. Labdanum—the heart of many amber accords—provides a leathery, honeyed, smoky sweetness. Labdanum from the Mediterranean, especially from Cistus ladanifer, is prized for its complexity: sweet, animalic, ambery, balsamic, and faintly herbal all at once. It merges with benzoin, whose vanilla-like warmth adds softness, and opoponax, with its sweet, resinous, faintly powdery character.
Incense rises through these resins in soft curls—smoky but refined, never overwhelming. Myrrh appears again, grounding the sweetness with its ancient, ceremonial depth. Ambergris adds a luminous, diffusive quality; though rarely used in modern perfumery, its scent is marine, warm, slightly animalic, and almost velvety, making the entire composition feel expansive and radiant.
Then come the animalic notes—Abyssinian civet, Canadian castoreum, and Tibetan musk. Civet from Abyssinia (Ethiopia) possesses a warm, creamy, slightly fecal depth, but in refined form it reads as sensual warmth and radiance. Castoreum from Canada evokes fur, leather, and smoky woods. Tibetan musk (historically derived from the musk deer) imparts an enveloping, velvety depth—sweet, powdery, slightly leathery. Though animalics can be challenging, in Poison they operate like the shadows in a painting: essential for dimensionality, never meant to dominate.
Atlas cedar offers dry, aromatic woodiness, smoother and less harsh than other cedar varieties. Mysore sandalwood completes the base—creamy, milky, rich, and sacred-smelling. True Mysore sandalwood is treasured for its warmth and depth, far more buttery and rounded than sandalwood from other regions. The coumarin and vanillin present in the formula enhance these woods with gentle sweetness: coumarin adding hay-like, almond tones, and vanillin supplying soft, comforting warmth.
Heliotropin lends a powdery, almond-vanilla facet that softens the darker notes, while damascenones—powerful aroma molecules—add honeyed rose, dried-fruit richness, and even a touch of tobacco sweetness. These synthetics amplify the natural materials, making the scent feel fuller, rounder, and more diffusive.
To smell Poison is to experience a fragrance that unfolds in waves: spiced brightness, velvety fruit, narcotic flowers, golden resins, animalic warmth, and creamy woods. Every material—whether natural or synthetic, delicate or forceful—plays a role in its hypnotic progression. The spices from Russia, Malaysia, Zanzibar, and Sri Lanka; the florals from Tunisia, Egypt, and Grasse; the resins from ancient trade routes; and the treasured woods from India and Morocco all combine into a composition that feels both global and timeless. It is a scent that lives up to its name—not because it harms, but because it entrances, overwhelms, seduces, and refuses to release its hold.
The Flacon:
The bottle created for Poison was the result of meticulous research and sculptural refinement. Designed to rest naturally in the palm, its rounded form immediately evokes the forbidden apple—a shape that conjures deep cultural associations. One cannot help but think of Snow White and the poisoned fruit that sealed her fate, or of Eve reaching for the apple from the Tree of Knowledge, the bite that “poisoned” Eden and altered humanity’s destiny. Dior understood the psychological power of such imagery: an object that looks innocent, beautiful, and tempting, yet carries an undercurrent of danger. Holding the bottle feels almost ritualistic, as though the wearer is participating in a seductive myth.
The color palette strengthened the drama. The amethyst-purple glass paired with flashes of emerald green created a combination that was, in the words of Jean Pierre Lippmann, Dior’s U.S. president, “bold, rich and different from all other brands.” The shades are jewel-like—sinister yet luxurious, royal yet enigmatic. Interestingly, the exact purple hue was a fortunate accident. Lippmann explained that it emerged from a miscalculation during the development of a promotional roll of film. What could have been a technical error instead produced a tone so mesmerizing that Dior adopted it immediately. The bottle glows like a captured spell: purple that deepens toward black, like the skin of a dangerous fruit ripened under moonlight.
Crowning the bottle is a crystal-ball stopper—a detail that heightens the sense of enchantment. It sits atop the amethyst form like a talisman or an oracle’s globe, reinforcing the idea that Poison is not merely a perfume but a kind of magic, something to be uncorked with intention. Encased in an emerald green moiré presentation box, the fragrance rests as if in a jewel casket. The moiré fabric, with its rippling, water-like pattern, creates the illusion of movement and depth, transforming the unboxing into a small theatrical moment. Every detail—shape, color, texture, light—was conceived to surround the fragrance with mystery, seduction, and a touch of danger.
Together, the bottle and its presentation communicate the essence of Poison before a single drop is smelled: irresistible temptation wrapped in exquisite artifice, a luxurious object that feels both beautiful and ever so slightly perilous.
Product Line:
Poison first appeared in a range of carefully tiered concentrations, each designed to shape the fragrance’s dramatic signature in a slightly different way. The richest form, Esprit de Parfum, offered an Eau de Parfum strength with an almost parfum-like density. In this version, Poison revealed its fullest character: the spices curled more slowly, the fruit accord felt plush and opaque, and the resinous, ambery base lingered with an enveloping softness. Sold in splash and spray bottles—including 1.7 oz, 1 oz, and 0.5 oz splashes as well as a 1 oz spray and a 0.33 oz refillable purse spray—this concentration allowed the wearer to control application, creating either a delicate aura or a commanding trail.
Esprit de Parfum (still being sold in 1996).- 1.7 oz Splash
- 1 oz Splash
- 0.5 oz Splash
- 1 oz Spray
- 0.33 oz Refillable purse spray
Esprit de Parfum Concentration Proche du Parfum:
A step further in refinement was Esprit de Parfum – Concentration Proche du Parfum, introduced in 1987. Often described as a “soft perfume concentration,” it bridged the space between Eau de Parfum and extrait. It softened some of Poison’s sharpest facets while amplifying the velvety, honeyed, and floral heart. This formulation delivered greater longevity than the standard Eau de Parfum but felt cushioned and quieter, as though the wildness of the berries and spices had been smoothed by a silk veil. It remained in production into the early 1990s, a testament to its popularity among those who loved Poison’s richness but preferred a more intimate expression.
The Eau de Toilette offered a brighter, more expansive interpretation. In this concentration, the mandarin, plum, and coriander sparkled more vividly, while the white flowers unfurled with greater lift. The EDT emphasized radiance over density, making Poison feel more airborne and energetic. It was widely available—through 0.17 oz minis, sprays in 1.7 oz, 3.4 oz, and 6.8 oz sizes, and corresponding splashes—appealing to wearers who wanted the drama of Poison without its full nocturnal depth.
Eau de Toilette- 0.17 oz Mini Spray
- 1.7 oz Spray
- 3.4 oz Spray
- 6.8 oz Spray
- 1.7 oz Splash
- 3.4 oz Splash
- 6.8 oz Splash
- 1.7 oz Splash
- 1 oz Splash
- 0.5 oz Splash
- 1 oz Spray
- 0.33 oz Refillable purse spray
- 0.17 oz Mini Spray
- 1.7 oz Spray
- 3.4 oz Spray
- 6.8 oz Spray
- 1.7 oz Splash
- 3.4 oz Splash
- 6.8 oz Splash
The lightest traditional concentration, Eau de Cologne, provided a translucent wash of the fragrance. Here, the fruit and citrus elements glimmered softly, while the heavier notes of musk, incense, and resin receded into a gentle hum. This form made Poison more approachable for daytime wear, offering a refreshing, breezier style without sacrificing its recognizable signature. It came in refillable purse sprays as well as 1 oz, 1.7 oz, 3.4 oz, and 6.8 oz sprays.
Eau de Cologne:- 0.25 oz Refillable purse spray
- 1 oz Spray
- 1.7 oz Spray
- 3.4 oz Spray
- 6.8 oz Spray
Responding to the growing demand for softer interpretations, Dior later introduced Poison Light Cologne in June 1989. Still available in the mid-1990s, it was designed to reinterpret the fragrance with a cooler, more modern ease. Rather than diluting the scent, this version intentionally shifted its emphasis: the spicy facets felt more diffused, the fruit accord more crystalline, and the floral heart less opulent. It retained the identity of Poison but wrapped it in a gentler, more luminous structure. Offered in 1.7 oz and 3.4 oz splashes and a 3.4 oz spray, it became an appealing alternative for those who loved the concept of Poison but wanted it softened for warm climates or casual use.
Light Cologne (still sold in 1994)- 1.7 oz Splash
- 3.4 oz Spray
- 3.4 oz Splash
- 0.25 oz Refillable purse spray
- 1 oz Spray
- 1.7 oz Spray
- 3.4 oz Spray
- 6.8 oz Spray
- 1.7 oz Splash
- 3.4 oz Spray
- 3.4 oz Splash






