Courreges in Blue, launched in 1983, reflects André Courrèges’ vision of modernity and freedom. The choice of the name Courreges in Blue speaks to his renowned minimalist approach, capturing a sense of understated sophistication. The term "in blue" is straightforward and evocative, hinting at the infinite vastness of the sky and ocean, symbols of calm, elegance, and boundless possibility. In French, "bleu" (blue) is associated with depth, clarity, and tranquility, all qualities that the designer might have intended to capture in this fragrance, pronounced "koo-REZH in bloo." For women of the time, Courreges in Blue suggested more than a color; it evoked an attitude—a poised, fresh vision of the future tempered by timeless elegance.
The word Courreges in Blue would have conjured images of effortless style, chic yet reserved. Women in the early 1980s, particularly those who admired Courrèges' forward-thinking designs, would likely have seen the fragrance as a wearable extension of his aesthetic. As the world moved away from the excesses of the disco era into a time of sleek power dressing and structured, tailored fashion, a fragrance called Courreges in Blue represented the modern woman who balanced sophistication with freshness. The scent’s composition reflects this duality, its top notes bursting with aldehydes—a vibrant, clean start that feels like stepping into crisp morning air. This fresh, spicy opening would have felt novel yet perfectly in line with the era’s trend of incorporating aldehydic brightness for a distinctively "clear" fragrance aura.
In scent, Courreges in Blue is the embodiment of controlled elegance with a touch of spontaneity. The aldehydic top notes, enhanced with a subtle spice, immediately provide a sparkling clarity that invigorates without overwhelming. This airy opening transitions smoothly into a heart that blooms with refined florals, enveloping the wearer in a sense of graceful femininity. The base, woody and softly powdery, anchors the fragrance, creating a warm, sophisticated finish that lingers.
The early 1980s saw a shift in the fragrance world from the earthy, oriental tones of the previous decade toward lighter, more structured compositions. Courreges in Blue was both a product of its time and a standout among contemporaries. It aligned with the emerging trend for fresh, aldehydic florals that embodied the crisp professionalism and poise of the time, while adding Courrèges’ unique interpretation—elegant, modern, and forever in style.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Courreges in Blue by Courreges is classified as a fresh spicy floral fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh, spicy aldehydic top, followed by a precious floral heart, resting on a woody, powdery base.
- Top notes: Italian mandarin, Bourbon geranium, aldehydes, French marigold, Calabrian bergamot, Russian coriander, Mediterranean basil, green note accord
- Middle notes: Polish blackcurrant bud, Chilean peach, Chinese peony, Grasse rose, Tuscan violet, Florentine orris, Egyptian jasmine, Tunisian orange blossom, Indian tuberose
- Base notes: Zanzibar clove, Haitian vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, Virginia cedar, Seychelles patchouli, Ethiopian civet, Tonkin musk, ambergris, Balkans oakmoss
Scent Profile:
Courrèges in Blue is a fragrance of chromatic motion—cool, sparkling, and emotionally resonant. It paints the olfactory equivalent of a sunlit breeze rushing through a wild Mediterranean garden before fading into a warm, velvet dusk. Each layer is beautifully textured with global materials chosen not just for their scent, but for their character, reflecting their terroir and intensity. To smell it is to travel by scent, from the sunlit fields of Italy to the dark mossy groves of the Balkans.
The opening is a burst of vitality—Italian mandarin brings a juicy sweetness, less sharp than orange, tinged with honeyed floral tones. Its essential oil is cold-expressed from the peels of fruit grown along Italy’s southern coast, where the sun and soil yield a fruit with unusual brightness and depth. It glows beside Calabrian bergamot, also from southern Italy, whose dry, floral-green citrus note sparkles with a soft bitterness. This isn’t just citrus—it’s a prelude to the aldehydes that lift the whole composition into the stratosphere.
Aldehydes—synthetic molecules like C10 (decanal) and C12 MNA (methyl nonyl acetaldehyde)—bring a soapy, fizzy, almost metallic freshness, like starched linen in sunlight. They give Courrèges in Blue its trademark 1970s shimmer, elevating the floral heart and imbuing the fragrance with a clean sophistication. But the aldehydes are softened by French marigold (tagetes), whose green, pungent floral tone adds a herbal accent, and Mediterranean basil, rich in eugenol and linalool, which offers aniseed brightness and spiced verdancy.
Russian coriander, steam-distilled from the seeds, adds a nutty, peppery facet—less citrusy than Moroccan coriander, it deepens the green complexity. This is further enhanced by a green note accord, likely composed of galbanum-like synthetics and cis-3-hexenol, which evoke the aroma of snapped stems and crushed leaves. And finally, Bourbon geranium—grown on the island of Réunion—emerges with its rosy, minty freshness, lending body to the opening and anchoring it to the floral heart.
As the heart unfolds, we step into a lush, perfumed garden. Grasse rose is queen here—deeply floral, both honeyed and green, distilled from blossoms hand-picked before dawn. It’s accompanied by Egyptian jasmine, warm and indolic, its narcotic sweetness tempered by the radiant powder of Tuscan violet, which lends a soft, suede-like elegance. Florentine orris, aged and ground from the iris rhizome, contributes a fine powderiness and the cool scent of frozen roots—floral, woody, and slightly vegetal.
Fruit notes, real and abstract, are woven in: Chilean peach, juicy and sun-ripened, offers a velvety sweetness, while Polish blackcurrant bud (absolue de bourgeon de cassis) lends a tart, green, slightly animalic character—pungent and powerful, rich in dimethyl sulfide, which brings sharpness and depth. Chinese peony lifts the heart with a delicate, tea-like floralcy, and Indian tuberose, creamy and fleshy, folds in warmth and heady sensuality. Completing the heart is Tunisian orange blossom, a white floral note that is both dewy and sparkling, wrapping the more animalic florals in a bridal white veil.
Then the base emerges, warm and grounding. Zanzibar clove, spicy and resinous, rich in eugenol, hums beneath the florals with dark fire. Haitian vetiver, earthy and woody with a dry, smoky character, partners with Virginia cedar, pencil-sharp and crisp, to provide a solid, woody spine. Mysore sandalwood, from southern India, now rare and protected, would have added a creamy, sacred warmth—today likely replaced by high-quality synthetic santalol to mimic its luxurious effect.
Seychelles patchouli brings a clean, aged darkness, differing from Indonesian varieties with its smoother profile. It binds with Balkans oakmoss, a true chypre staple—cool, mineralic, and velvety green, with an earthy pungency that tethers the entire fragrance to the forest floor.
The final shadows of the fragrance are the most intimate: Ethiopian civet, historically derived from the animal but now represented by synthetic civetone, brings a sensual muskiness—sweaty, human, and compelling. Tonkin musk, similarly animalic and rich, is recreated through muscone or macrocyclic musks like Exaltolide, enhancing the natural florals and giving the fragrance an extraordinary lasting power. Ambergris, once found floating in the ocean and now simulated with ambergris-like synthetics such as Ambroxan, lends a salty, radiant warmth that blends all the parts together into a soft, diffusive glow.
Courrèges in Blue isn’t just a perfume—it is a tactile, visual, and emotional experience. Cool and spicy at the start, luminous with white flowers, it dries down to something unexpectedly sensual. It’s a perfume with a pulse, alive with contrast—fresh but warm, powdery yet spicy, and always just a bit untamed under its tailored surface.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown.