Carnet de Bal by Revillon (1937)

Carnet de Bal by Parfums Revillon was launched in 1937, at a time when the world of cinema, fashion, and high society were closely intertwined. The perfume’s name, Carnet de Bal, literally translates from French as “dance card” (pronounced "kar-neh duh bal"). In the social traditions of the era, a carnet de bal was a small book that women carried to formal dances, in which gentlemen would write their names beside a dance, creating a structured, elegant form of courtship. The name evokes images of glittering ballrooms, flowing gowns, gloved hands, and the youthful excitement of swirling beneath crystal chandeliers. It also recalls the cinematic influence of the 1937 Julien Duvivier film Un Carnet de Bal, which was widely acclaimed in France and abroad, celebrated for its episodic storytelling and star-studded cast—a symbol of glamour, sophistication, and modernity.

The late 1930s was an era poised between interwar elegance and the prelude to modernist experimentation. In fashion, women were embracing more tailored yet fluid silhouettes, with an emphasis on femininity punctuated by refined accessories and luxe fabrics. Perfume was no different: the period was dominated by aldehydic floral chypres, a trend pioneered by perfumes like Chanel No. 5 in the 1920s and evolving toward fresher, greener, and more vibrant compositions in the 1930s. Women of the era were drawn to perfumes that conveyed sophistication and youthful vitality, aligning with the social allure implied by a “dance card”—a fragrant signature meant to attract attention while retaining elegance. Carnet de Bal would have been instantly understood as a perfume for the young and vivacious woman, capable of carrying herself with poise at evening events or daytime gatherings.

Composed by Maurice Schaller, a man with a unique background bridging perfumery glassware and perfume technology, Carnet de Bal is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre. The top notes open with a crisp, sparkling green spiciness from coriander and aldehydes, giving the initial impression of movement and vitality—like the flutter of a silk gown on a dance floor. The heart blossoms with rose and jasmine, their warm, floral richness carrying both sophistication and sensuality, a subtle nod to timeless feminine allure. The base layers of sandalwood and vetiver create a creamy, earthy foundation, while ambergris adds a luminous, animalic depth, and acacia introduces a soft, honeyed sweetness that lingers on the skin. Together, these elements create a fragrance that is spicy, green, and woody, projecting confidence, elegance, and youthful energy.

In context, Carnet de Bal was aligned with the trends of its time yet distinguished itself with a particularly green and vigorous character, combining the crispness of aldehydes and coriander with a warm, woody base. It was both familiar to the sophisticated women of the 1930s—who had already embraced floral chypres and aldehydic florals—and refreshingly lively, evoking the joyous energy of dance, cinema, and modern femininity. In essence, the perfume embodies a fragrant dance card: a playful, elegant, and enduring companion for women who wished to leave a memorable impression.

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh spicy top, followed by a cool floral heart, layered over a warm woody base. Carnet de Bal is a spicy, green, and woody fragrance, composed of sandalwood, vetiver, coriander, rose, jasmine, ambergris, and acacia. Youthful and vigorous, it asserts itself with a distinctive green and spicy character. A young perfume for the young, it is suitable for all occasions.

• Top notes: aldehyde, citrus, bergamot, fruits, acacia, lily of the valley, heliotrope, hyacinth
• Middle notes: lavender, tuberose, Roman chamomile, cyclamen, rose, Florentine iris, Grasse jasmine, peach, lily and Madagascar ylang-ylang, coriander
• Base notes: spices, benzoin, Mysore sandalwood, vetiver, ambergris, patchouli, Massif oakmoss, vanilla, civet and musk

 

Scent Profile:

Carnet de Bal unfolds like a carefully choreographed waltz, beginning with a sparkling, aldehydic top that immediately lifts the senses. The aldehydes lend a crisp, effervescent clarity reminiscent of sunlit champagne bubbles, creating an airy, almost abstract sparkle that highlights the first impressions of the perfume. 

Layered over this are bright citrus notes and bergamot, sourced from Italy’s coastal orchards, their zesty, radiant acidity cutting through the richness to add a green, citrusy freshness. The subtle inclusion of fruits evokes soft, juicy sweetness, tempered by the floral freshness of acacia, lily of the valley, heliotrope, and hyacinth, each contributing a delicate, slightly powdery and green facet that keeps the opening elegant rather than saccharine. Together, the top notes form an effervescent, youthful introduction—a sparkling, inviting bouquet that is both playful and refined.

As the fragrance settles, it reveals its cool floral heart, a garden of mid-century European elegance. The lavender adds a soothing, aromatic green clarity, while tuberose and Madagascar ylang-ylang infuse creamy, tropical warmth, their indolic richness balanced by the restraint of Roman chamomile, which contributes a gentle herbal sweetness. 

Cyclamen, rose, Florentine iris, Grasse jasmine, lily, and peach create a layered, multidimensional floral composition: the Grasse jasmine brings a narcotic, honeyed depth, its quality distinct from other jasmines in its full-bodied yet soft elegance, while Florentine iris contributes a powdery, almost velvety texture that softens the floral intensity. The addition of coriander introduces a green, spicy facet that bridges the top’s sparkling citrus with the floral heart, lending the perfume its signature vivacity and complexity.

The base notes bring the composition into warm, sensuous territory, layering depth and longevity over the vibrant heart. Mysore sandalwood provides a creamy, sweetly woody foundation, known for its fine grain and subtle spice compared to Indian or African sandalwoods. Vetiver introduces an earthy, smoky green accent, sourced from Bourbon vetiver or similar high-quality roots, giving the fragrance its grounded, almost forest-like character. 

Ambergris, with its marine, slightly animalic warmth, melds with civet and musk, lending a sensual, skin-like richness that amplifies the floral notes without overwhelming them. Patchouli and Massif oakmoss contribute the classic chypre backbone, earthy, mossy, and slightly bitter, enhancing the perfume’s structure and lingering power. Finally, benzoin and vanilla soften the base with a warm, balsamic sweetness, echoing the rounded character of a young woman’s charm.

From the first sparkling spritz to the lingering woody-aldehydic finish, Carnet de Bal captures a spirited, youthful elegance. It is a fragrance that is simultaneously green, floral, spicy, and sensuous—a masterful interplay of classic European chypre structure with a playful, modern vitality, ideal for a young woman asserting her presence with refinement and exuberance. Each ingredient, from the Grasse jasmine to the Mysore sandalwood, works in concert to create a perfume that is vibrant, complex, and unforgettable.

Bottles:

 

Brandy Snifter Flacon:

The original Carnet de Bal parfum bottle is a striking piece of design, instantly recognizable for its elegant and unconventional shape: an upside-down brandy snifter. This distinctive flacon, used exclusively for the parfum, captures both the sophistication and playfulness of the 1930s luxury aesthetic. Early bottles were understated yet refined, etched simply with matching numbers on the base and the stopper plug for identification. Adding a signature touch of craftsmanship, the top of each stopper bore the Revillon ram logo cut intaglio, a subtle emblem of the house’s heritage. These flacons were presented in soft peach-colored boxes, offering a delicate, feminine complement to the warm amber tones of the perfume inside.

As the years progressed, the packaging evolved while retaining an air of elegance. Later bottles were molded with “Revillon Paris Made in France” on the base, signaling the origin and prestige of the perfume. The stopper’s top featured a cut intaglio “R”, a simpler, more modern monogram, reflecting mid-century design trends. These editions were housed in white presentation boxes, enhanced with a green satin ribbon wrapped horizontally around the exterior, giving the package a tactile, luxurious finish. Some bottles were accompanied by cylindrical boxes covered in white paper adorned with stylized green leaves or feather patterns, reinforcing a natural elegance and visual appeal that echoed the perfume’s floral and woody character.

The New Yorker, 1938:

"Revillon’s Carnet de Bal, in a crystal bottle you’ll treasure long after the contents have vanished, is a delicious floral scent any woman would like; at Bonwit."

The New Yorker, 1938:

"Revillon: Carnet de Bal, new, luxurious, feminine. Amou Daria in vast, square crystal bottles ; it’s a blended, concentrated toilet water, mostly lilac, apparently; $8.50. The bath oil, brisk and verbena-ish, can also be used as a friction rub; $19.50 (Revillon and Bonwit Teller)."

 

For collectors or enthusiasts who might encounter bottles without labels, the Carnet de Bal brandy snifter comes in a variety of sizes, each with a distinctive height: the 0.5 oz stands just under 2 inches tall, the 5/6 oz bottle reaches 2 5/8 inches, and the 1 oz parfum stands just under 2.5 inches. Larger bottles include the 1.5 oz and 1 2/3 oz editions at 2.75 inches, the 2 oz at 3 inches, the 3 oz at 3.5 inches, and the 5 oz bottle towers at 4 inches. These dimensions, combined with the unique snifter shape, make each Carnet de Bal bottle a collectible work of art as much as a vessel for fragrance, a tangible reflection of Revillon’s dedication to luxury, elegance, and meticulous attention to detail.

• 0.5 oz parfum bottle stands just under 2" tall
• 5/6 oz bottle stands 2 5/8" tall.
• 1 oz parfum bottle stands just under 2.5" tall.
• 1.5 oz parfum bottle stands 2.75" tall.
• 1 2/3 oz bottle stands 2.75" tall.
• 2 oz stands 3" tall
• 3 oz stands 3.5" tall
• 5 oz bottle stands 4" tall

 


Other Parfum Bottles:

Other bottles were created for the parfum.

Square splash bottle:

A harder to find bottle is the one spiral amphora crystal flacon created for various parfums by Revillon. It was presented with a black velvet pouch and cylindrical box. The bottle measures just 3.5" long and was a handy size to keep inside the purse.

Mademoiselle, 1961:

"A spiraling bottle inspired by a crystal antique — and Carnet de Bal perfume. By Revillon. $6.60."

A rare presentation is the presentations from Western Airlines. The bottle is a mini purse size flacon of the spiral shaped bottle and came in a little box which had a small tag that read "Western Airlines and Parfums Revillon of Paris proudly present Carnet de Bal."

ASTA Travel News, 1955:

"Service on Western begins with such extra luxuries as reserved seats, filet mignon, and vintage champagne. Western stresses the festive, friendly touches, like a gift of rare perfume for the ladies. It all adds up to an exquisite climax -a superb gift of rare perfume! Western Airlines and Parfums Revillon of Paris proudly present Carnet de Bal."

Metropolitan Magazine, 1956,

“A new personal service to keep the wives of flying business men happy. The stewardesses obtain the traveler’s business card and turn it over to Western’s sales personnel. Within a few days, the lady receives her personal bottle of French Carnet de Bal perfume with a note of appreciation for being patient while Western served the man in her life. The program is extended to mothers, sisters and secretaries for single men.”

Eau de Toilette, Parfum de Toilette, & Eau de Cologne Bottles:

Later bottles would be created for various concentrations, such as the eau de cologne and the eau de toilette.

1947:

"A truly romantic gift for a sweetheart or a wife was a bottle of Carnet de Bal perfume. The bottle is shaped like a heart. The price is $15.00."

In 1969/1970 through 1972/1973, Carnet de Bal was available in the following:

Parfum: Ball-shaped bottle line: very luxurious presentation, from 0.25 oz to 4 oz.; Flat bottle line: flat bottle in a white cardboard box with a woven pattern print, from 0.25 oz to 4 oz. 

Related Products: Parfum de Toilette, from 2 oz to 16 oz.

Ancillary Products: Talcum Powder. 

 The Fate of the Fragrance:

Carnet de Bal by Revillon evolved over the decades as both a fragrance and a cultural icon, reflecting the tastes, fashions, and marketing strategies of each era. Upon its launch in 1937, the perfume was immediately positioned as a luxury item, with Stage magazine noting that it was “the newest perfume…in very de luxe bottles,” priced at $37.50 for three ounces and $62.50 for five—a significant sum in pre-war America, signaling exclusivity. Marie-Claire highlighted its originality, noting the inclusion of real calvados from Normandy, a subtle yet evocative nod to French terroir. The review described Carnet de Bal as a “silent, modest” fragrance, perfect for the woman who preferred discretion yet whose presence quietly enriched the lives of those around her, emphasizing refinement over flamboyance.

By 1938, publications like the Perfumery and Essential Oil Record described its packaging as inspired by the elegance of waltz-era design, connecting the perfume visually to the cinematic world, specifically the French film Un Carnet de Bal, which had captivated audiences in London. This early attention to presentation reinforced the perfume’s association with high society, culture, and romance, situating it as a fragrance for the discerning, cosmopolitan woman.

After World War II, advertisements from the late 1940s sought to reintroduce French luxury to American consumers. In 1948, Carnet de Bal was marketed as “light and appealing,” with matching cologne available to create a harmonious fragrance ensemble. By 1949, publications like Cue noted the growing fascination Americans had with Parisian culture, describing Carnet de Bal as a “real connoisseur’s” fragrance now returning to the U.S. in quantity, reinforcing its status as a collectible and sophisticated perfume.

The 1950s saw Carnet de Bal increasingly associated with elegance, winter luxury, and opulence. Harper’s Bazaar in 1953 recommended it for pairing with “fur and snow-scented air,” a nod to its deep warmth and suitability for the season’s fashion. Combat in 1955 poetically described the perfume as a floral symphony: lily of the valley, rose, heliotrope, acacia, and hyacinth mingling freely with sunlight, emphasizing how the fragrance unfolds naturally, revealing its complexity and sensuality. Advertisements of the same year compared it to a “rainbow on Christmas Eve,” highlighting its freshness, versatility, and radiant allure.

Into the late 1950s and 1960s, Carnet de Bal was firmly established in North America as one of Revillon’s two flagship fragrances alongside Detchéma. A 1959 ad introduced the brand to wider audiences, emphasizing its French origins and sophisticated character. By 1960, it was directly tied to the luxury fur trade, created to complement “magnificent furs; the sables and ermines,” positioning the fragrance as both accessory and statement. Harper’s Bazaar celebrated its vibrancy, noting it was “as fresh as all outdoors, as enchanting as field flowers,” while a 1961 advertisement highlighted its global floral and spice ingredients, reinforcing the perfume’s cosmopolitan character.

The prices for the fragrance in 1960 were:

• 1/2 oz Parfum: $12.50
• 1 oz Parfum: $24.75
• 2 oz Parfum: $49.00
• 3 oz Parfum: $73.50
• 5 oz Parfum: $122.50
• 1/4 oz $4 Parfum in purse flacon
• 1/2 oz Parfum in purse flacons $6.50
• Eau de Toilette $3.75 to $10

Over its early decades, Carnet de Bal evolved from a cinematic-inspired luxury fragrance to a symbol of cosmopolitan elegance and discreet sophistication. It was marketed as versatile yet refined—suitable for women who wanted both presence and subtlety, embodying the elegance of Parisian culture and the allure of modern femininity. Its combination of aldehydes, florals, and woods made it simultaneously fresh, floral, and grounded, a signature for women who embraced sophistication in both style and scent.

Carnet de Bal was discontinued sometime between 1974-1985.