Léonard de Léonard was launched in 1989 by Parfums Léonard, and its name is intentionally self-referential, almost couture-like in its construction. In French, “Léonard de Léonard” literally translates to “Léonard by Léonard,” echoing the tradition of fashion houses naming signature creations after their founder or brand, much like a designer’s definitive statement piece. Pronounced "LAY-oh-nar duh LAY-oh-na", the repetition of the name reinforces authorship, authenticity, and confidence. It signals that this fragrance is not an offshoot or variation, but the purest expression of the house’s identity.
The name evokes images of Parisian ateliers, refined tailoring, and elegant restraint. Emotionally, it suggests poise, femininity, and cultivated taste rather than overt seduction. It feels introspective and polished—less about spectacle and more about refinement. The repetition of the name also creates a rhythmic softness, reinforcing a sense of harmony and balance that aligns naturally with the fragrance’s green, floral, and powdery character.
Released at the close of the 1980s, Léonard de Léonard arrived during a transitional moment in fashion and perfumery. The late 1980s were characterized by strong silhouettes, bold colors, and expressive fashion statements, yet there was already a growing desire for softness, naturalness, and restraint as the industry moved toward the 1990s. In perfumery, this translated into fresh florals, green notes, and airy compositions, offering a counterbalance to the powerful orientals and heavily animalic fragrances that had dominated earlier in the decade.
Women at the time were navigating evolving identities—professional, independent, and self-assured—while still valuing elegance and femininity. A perfume called Léonard de Léonard would have resonated as a quiet luxury, appealing to women who appreciated fashion as an extension of personal style rather than a display of excess. It suggested refinement, individuality, and confidence rooted in taste rather than volume.
Olfactorily, Léonard de Léonard interprets its name through softness, clarity, and balance. Classified as a fresh floral green fragrance, it opens with crisp green notes that evoke freshly cut stems and morning garden air—clean, luminous, and understated. The floral heart unfolds gently, emphasizing natural elegance rather than opulence, and the powdery base adds a delicate, tactile softness reminiscent of fine fabrics and skin. The scent feels composed and graceful, much like a perfectly tailored garment.
Created by perfumer Roger Pellegrino, the fragrance reflects a couture sensibility: nothing is overstated, yet every element feels intentional. The green freshness gives way to florals that are light and refined, while the powdery base anchors the composition with a sense of comfort and femininity. This interpretation aligns seamlessly with the name, presenting a fragrance that feels both personal and emblematic of the house itself.
Within the context of late-1980s perfumery, Léonard de Léonard was not radically disruptive, but it was perfectly attuned to emerging trends. While many contemporaries still leaned toward bold statements, this fragrance offered a softer, fresher alternative that anticipated the cleaner, more natural aesthetic of the early 1990s. Its green floral profile placed it in dialogue with other elegant, understated perfumes of the era, yet its couture branding and refined execution gave it a distinct identity.
Léonard refers to Daniel Tribouillard, the French fashion designer behind the house of Léonard, renowned for his luxurious printed silks, vibrant florals, and impeccable craftsmanship. Léonard fashion was synonymous with Parisian elegance, color, and fluid femininity. Léonard de Léonard translates this fashion heritage into scent, capturing the house’s signature balance of sophistication, softness, and refined beauty—making the fragrance a natural extension of Léonard’s couture universe.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a soft fresh floral green fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh green top, followed by a floral heart, layered over a powdery base.
- Top notes: bergamot, neroli, lemon, peach, galbanum, green note, hyacinth, coriander, nutmeg
- Middle notes: carnation, lily of the valley, lily, jasmine, tuberose, ylang-ylang, rose, orris, iris aldehydes, violet
- Base notes: ambergris, oakmoss, vetiver, cedarwood, sandalwood and musk
Scent Profile:
Léonard de Léonard unfolds like a silk scarf lifted by a Parisian breeze—fresh, green, and quietly radiant, its elegance expressed through nuance rather than force. From the very first moment, the top notes feel alive and luminous. Bergamot sparkles with a refined citrus bitterness typical of the finest Italian groves, where the fruit develops a floral, slightly peppered brightness absent in harsher varieties. Lemon follows, clean and sunlit, adding clarity and lift, while neroli—distilled from orange blossoms, traditionally associated with Mediterranean coastlines—brings a soft, honeyed floral glow that bridges citrus and blossom.
A gentle peach note adds a velvety sweetness, more skin-like than fruity, rounding the freshness without heaviness. Galbanum introduces a sharply green, resinous bite—cool, sap-like, and slightly bitter—evoking crushed stems and fresh leaves. This verdancy is amplified by abstract green notes, modern aroma chemicals that recreate the sensation of dew, chlorophyll, and garden air, lending vibrancy and diffusion. Hyacinth contributes a watery floral greenness, while coriander and nutmeg add a subtle aromatic warmth, gently spicy and softly textured, preventing the opening from becoming too sharp or austere.
As the fragrance moves into its heart, the floral composition blooms with graceful complexity. Carnation brings a clove-tinged, peppery floral warmth, echoing vintage elegance while remaining refined. Lily of the valley introduces a sheer, luminous freshness—delicate, airy, and bell-like—its effect enhanced by synthetic muguet molecules that extend its radiance far beyond what natural materials alone can achieve. White lilies add creamy volume, while jasmine—soft, slightly indolic, and sensual—wraps the bouquet in warmth.
Tuberose lends a narcotic richness, buttery and opulent, yet carefully restrained, while ylang-ylang contributes a tropical floral creaminess with hints of banana and spice, smoothing the composition. Rose appears polished and gentle rather than dominant, likely inspired by classic European varieties known for balance rather than intensity. Orris and iris deepen the heart with their signature powdery, root-like elegance—cool, violet-tinged, and softly earthy—qualities that develop slowly and lend the fragrance its refined couture character. Iris aldehydes enhance this effect, adding a silvery, airy shimmer, while violet contributes a delicate sweetness reminiscent of candied petals and cosmetic powder.
The base settles into a soft, enveloping embrace that feels both natural and meticulously constructed. Ambergris provides a warm, mineral glow—salty, musky, and slightly animalic—bringing depth and a subtle radiance that enhances longevity. Oakmoss, with its forest-like dampness and green-bitter complexity, anchors the fragrance in classic chypre tradition, while vetiver adds a dry, grassy woodiness, smoky and elegant, often prized from regions like Haiti for its refined, clean character.
Cedarwood lends pencil-shaving dryness and structure, while sandalwood introduces a creamy, milky smoothness that softens the edges and creates sensual cohesion. Finally, musk—clean, velvety, and softly skin-like—wraps the entire composition in a powdery veil, enhancing intimacy and wearability. Modern musks amplify the warmth and diffusion of the natural woods and resins, ensuring the fragrance feels gentle, lasting, and effortlessly elegant.
Together, these elements create a perfume that feels tailored rather than ornate—fresh yet soft, floral yet green, powdery yet transparent. Léonard de Léonard is not about drama, but about refinement: a fragrance that breathes, moves, and lingers like fine fabric against the skin, embodying quiet confidence and timeless femininity.
Product Line:
- Presentations: Eau de Parfum splash (50ml); EDP Spray (30ml, 50ml)
- Related Products: Eau de Toilette splash (50ml, 100ml); EDT Spray (30ml, 50ml, 100ml)
- Ancillary Products: Soap 9100g); Body Cream pot (200ml); Natural Deodorant spray (100ml)
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown. It was still being sold in 1995, but most likely discontinued before 1998.