Showing posts with label Maroc by Ultima II (1985). Show all posts
Showing posts with label Maroc by Ultima II (1985). Show all posts

Monday, November 18, 2013

Maroc by Ultima II (1985)

Maroc, launched in 1985 by Ultima II/Revlon, was conceived as a statement of unapologetic luxury—an olfactory jewel presented in gold-on-gold packaging that reflected the brand’s aspiration toward prestige and refinement. Ultima II itself was Revlon’s high-end division, created to compete with the growing demand for more exclusive, sophisticated beauty products during the late 1970s and 1980s. Unlike Revlon’s mass-market offerings, Ultima II positioned itself as a purveyor of indulgence, blending premium ingredients with elevated marketing. The name “Maroc,” the French word for Morocco (pronounced mah-ROCK), was a deliberate choice, instantly evoking an exotic, sun-drenched landscape rich in history, culture, and sensuality. It conjures images of desert winds, ornate palaces, spice souks, and the languid elegance of Moroccan courts—an atmosphere of mystery, opulence, and timeless allure.

Central to the fragrance’s narrative was the moschata rose, described in press materials as a wild white musk rose blooming along the Mediterranean coast of Morocco. In reality, “moschata” refers to Rosa moschata, or musk rose—a delicate, softly fragrant species known for its light, airy sweetness with subtle musky undertones. Unlike the richly saturated damask or centifolia roses typically used in perfumery, musk rose yields very little extractable oil, making it impractical as a primary natural source. As such, its presence in Maroc would have been interpreted through a blend of natural rose oils and carefully constructed synthetic accords designed to recreate its luminous, slightly musky floral character. These synthetics enhance diffusion and longevity, allowing perfumers to evoke the elusive quality of the flower—its ability to bloom “in sunlight and long after dark”—while maintaining a consistent, wearable composition.

The fragrance unfolds as a classic floral chypre, a structure that balances brightness, floral richness, and a grounded, mossy depth. The opening is fresh and floral, likely shaped by the interplay of rose maroc—rose oil sourced from Morocco, known for its warm, honeyed, and slightly spicy nuance—and rose otto, often distilled from Bulgarian or Turkish roses, prized for their clarity and depth. Jasmine maroc, cultivated in the same region, adds a narcotic, sun-warmed richness, its indolic facets lending a sensual, skin-like warmth. Together, these high-quality essential oils, blended in France, create a heart that feels lush and enveloping—an opulent bouquet that evokes gardens in full bloom under a golden sky.




As the fragrance settles, it reveals a woody, powdery base that anchors the florals in classic chypre tradition. Patchouli introduces an earthy, slightly шоколад-like depth, while mousse de chêne—oakmoss—adds its signature damp, forest-floor richness, giving the composition structure and elegance. Ambergris, historically a rare oceanic substance, would have been represented even then by a blend of natural traces and synthetic analogs, contributing a soft, glowing warmth with a faint marine sweetness. Musk enhances this effect, lending a sensual, skin-like finish, while also acting as a fixative to prolong the fragrance’s presence. The overall effect is both grounded and radiant—a balance of heaven and earth, light and shadow.

The mid-1980s, when Maroc was introduced, were defined by excess, glamour, and bold self-expression—often referred to as the “Power Era.” Fashion was dramatic: sharp tailoring, metallic fabrics, and statement accessories dominated, while fragrances mirrored this intensity with strong, long-lasting compositions. Maroc fits squarely within this context, aligning with the era’s preference for rich, assertive scents that projected confidence and sophistication. However, it distinguished itself through its thematic focus on Moroccan luxury and its emphasis on high-quality natural materials, offering an exotic narrative that set it apart from more abstract or purely Western compositions.

For women of the time, a perfume named “Maroc” would have represented escape and aspiration—a sensory journey to a place of warmth, mystery, and indulgence. It allowed the wearer to embody a fantasy of distant lands and regal elegance, aligning with the decade’s fascination with travel, opulence, and cultural romanticism. The choice of model Kim Alexis, photographed in Morocco, reinforced this vision, presenting the fragrance as both glamorous and transportive.

In scent, “Maroc” translates into a tapestry of warmth and richness: sunlit roses, deep woods, and soft, powdery musk woven together into a composition that feels both luxurious and enveloping. While it followed the broader trends of its time in structure and intensity, its identity—rooted in place, story, and material—gave it a distinctive presence. It was not merely a fragrance, but an experience of imagined Morocco, captured in gold and glass.

Press materials read: "In ancient times, there lived in Tangier a King. His wealth was vast, his castle beautiful, his subjects loved him. But he longed for a wife. Far and wide he searched, but in vain. All the women were veiled and he had to find a suitable bride chosen by shape and grace alone! The search went on until one maiden, possessed with great knowledge and innovation, crushed hundreds upon hundreds of Moschata roses, blended them with secret oils and anointed herself with the seductive scent. As she danced before the King, the fragrance filled the room and he was captivated. Centuries on, the Moschata rose still stirs the imagination, captivates and delights. Ultima II inspired by the legend of the Moschata rose, has created a very special fragrance, Maroc, featuring the fabled rose itself.  The top notes surrounding the exotic Moscata are of coriander, mousse de chene, ylang ylang and rose otto. Spicy, woodsy middle notes are seasoned with sandalwood, cedarwood, patchouli, vetiver and muguet. Musk and oakmoss form a mellow base."


Launch:


The launch of Maroc unfolded as an intimate yet carefully orchestrated expression of luxury, set within a private room just off the terrace at Le Bel Age. The setting itself suggested exclusivity—soft evening light filtering in from the terrace, the air carrying a sense of anticipation and refinement. At the center of the evening was not only the fragrance, but its embodiment in Kim Alexis, whose presence brought the campaign to life. She appeared in an above-the-knee beaded gown by Fabrice, the intricate shimmer of the fabric catching the light with every movement, echoing the golden opulence of the perfume’s presentation. Her look balanced elegance with modern allure, reinforcing the image of the Maroc woman: poised, radiant, and unmistakably captivating.

The dinner, conceived as a “little Moroccan” gathering, was hosted by Revlon’s vice-president Dan Moriarty, adding a layer of corporate sophistication to the otherwise sensorial, almost theatrical evening. The culinary experience played a central role in shaping the atmosphere. Prepared by Tinoco Maximilano, a Moroccan chef working alongside chef Derrick Dikker’s team, the menu showcased a selection of traditional delicacies—likely rich with spices, slow-cooked meats, and fragrant accompaniments that mirrored the depth and warmth of the fragrance itself. The table was adorned with a continuous arrangement of white moschata roses, a direct reference to the inspiration behind Maroc. Their presence was both decorative and symbolic, their soft, luminous petals reinforcing the narrative of rarity, romance, and exotic beauty.

The guest list reflected a vibrant cross-section of cultural and creative influence, bringing together figures from fashion, publishing, film, and society. Among them were Los Angeles Magazine editor Geoff Miller, producers Ross Hunter and Jacque Mapes, and actress Linda Miller with her son Jason Patric, alongside Geraldine and Jack Chutuk, daughters connected to the legacy of Jackie Gleason. Fashion and editorial voices were equally present, with attendees such as Vogue’s Eleanore Phillips Colt and Harper’s Bazaar’s Nancy Dismore, lending the evening an air of industry significance. The Broadway’s Margot Scavarda, Glennis Liberty, New Yorker Susan Reed, and Le Bel Age’s Milan Adam added to the lively, eclectic energy of the gathering.

Together, these elements created more than a product launch—they formed an immersive experience. The interplay of scent, setting, fashion, and cuisine transformed the evening into a living interpretation of Maroc itself: warm, opulent, and infused with a sense of escapism. It was not merely about introducing a fragrance, but about inviting guests into a world—one defined by elegance, sensuality, and the allure of a distant, imagined Morocco.
 

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Maroc is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh flowery top, followed by a rosy heart, layered over a woody powdery base.
  • Top notes: aldehyde, bergamot, coriander, rosewood, green note complex
  • Middle notes: geranium, jasmine, orris, Moschata rose, Moroccan rose, Bulgarian rose otto, Moroccan jasmine  
  • Base notes: ambergris, patchouli, vetiver, civet, oakmoss, musk, honey

Scent Profile:


Maroc opens with a radiant, almost gilded brightness—an effect shaped first by aldehydes, those luminous aroma molecules that give the impression of light itself. They shimmer like sunlight on polished gold, adding lift and diffusion, transforming the natural notes into something more expansive and glamorous. Bergamot, most prized from Calabria in southern Italy, follows with its refined citrus character—softly bitter, delicately floral, and far more elegant than sharper citrus oils. Coriander seed introduces a gentle spice, warm and slightly citrusy, bridging freshness with depth, while rosewood contributes a smooth, subtly rosy woodiness with a faint sweetness. A green note complex—often built from molecules like cis-3-hexenol—evokes the scent of crushed leaves and fresh stems, giving the opening a crisp, verdant clarity. Together, these elements feel like stepping into a sunlit garden just after dawn, where the air is still cool but already glowing with warmth.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals an opulent and intricately layered rose composition, surrounded by supporting florals that deepen its character. Geranium, often sourced from Egypt, lends a minty, slightly metallic green-rose facet that sharpens and modernizes the bouquet. Jasmine—particularly Moroccan jasmine—brings a rich, sun-warmed sensuality, its indolic depth giving the floral heart a living, breathing warmth. Orris, derived from the aged rhizomes of iris grown in regions like Tuscany, introduces a powdery, buttery softness, reminiscent of fine cosmetic powders and lending an unmistakable elegance.

At the center lies a trio of roses, each with its own identity. Moroccan rose, cultivated in North African valleys, is warm, honeyed, and slightly spicy—more sun-drenched and golden than its European counterparts. Bulgarian rose otto, distilled in the famed Valley of Roses, offers a deeper, more velvety richness with a balance of sweetness and subtle зелень. The elusive Moschata rose, or musk rose, cannot be meaningfully extracted for perfumery due to its low oil yield; instead, its soft, airy, slightly musky floral character is recreated through a blend of rose oils and carefully constructed synthetic accords. These synthetics do not merely imitate—they enhance diffusion, extend longevity, and capture the delicate, glowing quality of a flower that blooms in both sunlight and the night The result is a rose heart that feels layered and dimensional—lush yet airy, romantic yet quietly sensual.

The base settles into a deep, enveloping warmth, where the classical structure of a chypre comes fully into focus. Oakmoss, traditionally harvested in European forests, provides a damp, earthy richness—green, slightly bitter, and grounding. Due to modern restrictions on its natural form, it is often complemented or partially replaced by synthetic moss accords that preserve its texture while softening its intensity. Patchouli adds an earthy, almost chocolate-like depth, while vetiver—particularly from Haiti—brings a smoky, dry elegance, like roots pulled from cool soil.

Ambergris, once a rare oceanic substance aged by sun and sea, is here suggested through molecules such as ambroxan, which provide a soft, radiant warmth—slightly salty, slightly sweet, and diffusive. Civet, historically animalic and intense, is now recreated synthetically, adding a subtle warmth that enhances the sensuality of the florals without overwhelming them. Musk, entirely synthetic in modern perfumery, softens and binds the composition, giving it a clean, skin-like finish that lingers intimately. Finally, honey adds a golden sweetness—rich, slightly animalic, and syrupy—often reinforced with aroma chemicals to maintain consistency and projection, wrapping the entire base in a warm, glowing embrace.

The interplay between natural materials and synthetics is essential throughout Maroc. Naturals provide depth, nuance, and authenticity, while synthetics refine, extend, and illuminate them—making the fragrance more diffusive, more stable, and more enduring. The result is a scent that feels luxurious and timeless: a tapestry of sunlit florals, velvety roses, and warm, mossy woods, evoking the richness and mystery suggested by its name.



Product Line:

  • 0.43 oz Essence Spray (retailed for $12.50 in 1986)
  • 0.94 oz Cologne Spray (retailed for $14.50)
  • 2 oz Cologne Spray (retailed for $20)
  • 8.25 oz Cologne Splash (retailed for $25 in 1986)
  • 4 oz Body Lustre, an instant moisture bath that leaves skin smooth and free of dry flaking (retailed for $10.50 in 1986)
  • 8.25 oz Body Lustre, an instant moisture bath that leaves skin smooth and free of dry flaking (retailed for $22 in 1986) 
  • 6 oz Moisturizing Body Mousse, a lightweight pouf that massages in quickly, easily, leaving you with a polished glow that lasts for hours (retailed for $14 in 1986)


Fate of the Fragrance:


Maroc quietly disappeared from store shelves around 1990, marking the end of its relatively brief but memorable presence in the fragrance market. Despite its discontinuation, the scent did not vanish overnight; remaining inventory—often referred to as “old stock”—continued to surface in retail channels for several years, with discounted bottles still being sold as late as 1993. This gradual fade only added to its mystique, transforming Maroc from a contemporary luxury fragrance into a coveted rarity. Over time, it has gained a devoted following among collectors and enthusiasts who seek out vintage bottles, drawn by both its distinctive composition and the opulent identity it once represented. Today, Maroc endures as a beloved discontinued perfume, remembered not only for its scent but for the sense of glamour and escapism it embodied.


Irma Shorell Version:


In 1995, Maroc was given a second life when Irma Shorell Inc., through its Long Lost Perfumes line, acquired the rights to market a fragrance under the Maroc name. This revival, however, was not a true restoration of the original scent. In perfumery, the formula itself—down to the exact proportions, materials, and proprietary aroma blends—is considered a closely guarded trade secret, owned by the original creators. Without access to that formula, Shorell’s version could only be an interpretation, constructed from publicly known notes and general olfactory descriptions rather than the precise architecture that defined the original composition.

As a result, this “re-created” Maroc would have captured the spirit rather than the exact identity of the 1985 fragrance. Perfumers likely worked from the listed notes—rose, jasmine, patchouli, oakmoss, ambergris, and others—rebuilding the scent profile through approximation, using modern materials and available substitutes. Certain elements, particularly restricted or rare ingredients such as oakmoss or natural animalics, would have been modified or replaced with synthetic equivalents, further distinguishing it from the original. While such recreations can be evocative and satisfying in their own right, they often lack the nuanced balance and depth that come from the original formula’s precise composition.

Like the original Maroc, this revival was ultimately short-lived and has since been discontinued as well. Today, both versions occupy a similar space in the fragrance world—objects of nostalgia and curiosity, sought after by collectors who appreciate not only the scent itself but the story of its disappearance and attempted resurrection.

Fragrance Composition:

  • Top notes: coriander, cardamom, geranium, rosewood, bergamot, and aldehydes.
  • Middle notes: Otto rose, jasmine, orris root, gardenia, ylang-ylang and lily of the valley.
  • Base notes: sandalwood, musk, patchouli, vetiver and oakmoss

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