Showing posts with label Giorgio Beverly Hills. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Giorgio Beverly Hills. Show all posts

Sunday, February 19, 2023

Red by Giorgio Beverly Hills (1989)

The house of Giorgio Beverly Hills was never merely a perfume brand—it was, first and foremost, a symbol of aspirational American glamour rooted in a single, highly visible location. Its story begins with Fred Hayman, often called the “godfather of Rodeo Drive,” who in 1962 purchased a boutique from his partner George Grant. Grant had been using the name “Giorgio” to evoke Italian sophistication in his knitwear, and Hayman retained it, transforming the shop into the now-legendary Giorgio Beverly Hills boutique. With its unmistakable yellow-and-white striped awnings, the store became a visual shorthand for West Coast luxury—sun-drenched, extroverted, and unapologetically glamorous. It was less a shop than a stage set for a lifestyle, attracting celebrities, socialites, and tourists eager to participate in the mythology of Beverly Hills itself.

This mythology translated seamlessly into fragrance. The debut scent, Giorgio Beverly Hills (1981), was a bold, radiant floral that projected as confidently as the boutique’s striped façade. It became a cultural phenomenon—“an instant hit nationwide”—and by 1985, sales had reached an astonishing $100 million across more than 300 stores. Even by 1988, it “remained the nation's top selling prestige-brand fragrance,” a testament to how successfully the brand had bottled not just a scent, but an identity: opulence, visibility, and a distinctly American interpretation of luxury that rivaled European houses.

The late 1980s marked a turning point. Following the divorce of Fred and Gayle Hayman in 1987, the business was sold, and Avon Products Inc acquired the Giorgio Beverly Hills fragrance name and rights for $165 million. Though Hayman initially retained the boutique, an agreement required him to relinquish the Giorgio name by 1989. In a symbolic gesture, he removed the iconic striped awnings and replaced them with rich gold and red, rebranding the store as Fred Hayman Beverly Hills. That same spirit of reinvention—of bold, declarative change—echoed in the launch of Red by Giorgio Beverly Hills in 1989, now under Avon’s direction.

The choice of the name Red was anything but arbitrary. Red is the color of intensity—of heat, passion, and immediacy. It suggests vitality, sensuality, power, and even danger. Unlike the sunny brightness of yellow (which defined the original Giorgio), red moves into deeper emotional territory: it pulses, it commands attention, it lingers. In marketing terms, it is both primal and sophisticated, capable of evoking everything from Hollywood glamour to the flush of desire. To name a fragrance Red is to make a statement of confidence—direct, bold, and impossible to ignore. It is less a whisper than a declaration.

This message aligned perfectly with the cultural moment of the late 1980s, a period often described as the apex of the “power era.” Fashion was assertive and theatrical: sharply tailored suits with pronounced shoulders, lacquered hair, bold makeup—particularly vivid red lips—and an overall aesthetic that celebrated visibility and success. Women were increasingly occupying powerful professional roles, and their style reflected a desire to project authority without sacrificing femininity. In perfumery, this translated into what are now called “power fragrances”—large, diffusive compositions with strong sillage, designed not simply to be discovered, but to be noticed across a room.

Within this context, Red would have felt entirely of its time. To a woman of 1989, wearing a fragrance named Red was an extension of her presence: confident, self-assured, and unafraid of attention. It resonated with the era’s fascination with bold identity and personal expression. Where earlier decades might have favored subtlety or romantic softness, the late ’80s embraced impact. A perfume called Red did not suggest modesty—it suggested arrival.

Moreover, the emotional language of red bridged both empowerment and allure. It could signify independence and ambition, but also seduction and glamour—an ideal duality for a generation of women navigating evolving roles in both professional and social spheres. In this way, Red by Giorgio Beverly Hills captured the essence of its moment: a fragrance not just worn, but inhabited, embodying the heat, ambition, and unmistakable visibility of the late 1980s.





The original Giorgio fragrance achieved extraordinary commercial success, but its triumph was inseparable from its notoriety. It was, by all accounts, a true “powerhouse” perfume—lavish in composition and unapologetically diffusive. Its dense profusion of white florals, aldehydes, and rich supporting notes created a scent that did not merely linger, but announced itself with formidable presence. For many women, this boldness was precisely its appeal; it embodied the opulence and confidence of Beverly Hills glamour. Yet for others, it proved overwhelming. Some found they simply could not wear it, describing the fragrance as too intense, even physically oppressive, with complaints that it could trigger headaches or migraines. Its reach extended far beyond the wearer—Giorgio became omnipresent in public spaces, saturating elevators, subways, theatres, and restaurants, where it often preceded its wearer by several moments and lingered long after she had gone.

This ubiquity inevitably sparked backlash. The very quality that made Giorgio iconic—its immense projection—also made it polarizing. As Michael Gould, then chief executive officer and president of Giorgio Beverly Hills, candidly remarked, people felt they were “overpowered to death.” He further observed that “after Giorgio came out, all the fragrances since have been strong—Obsession, Fendi, Poison,” referring to the broader industry shift toward intensely concentrated, high-impact compositions. Yet by the late 1980s, a subtle change in consumer taste was emerging. As Gould noted, “today’s customer is looking for something more sophisticated and wants something different.” The market, having reached a saturation point with bold, room-filling scents, began to show an appetite for refinement—fragrances that retained elegance and presence, but expressed them with greater nuance.

It was this tension—between the legacy of exuberance and the desire for restraint—that gave rise to a new creative direction. The mandate was to craft a fragrance that would feel “softer, more delicate,” yet still carry “all the panache of Beverly Hills.” In other words, the challenge was not to abandon the brand’s identity, but to reinterpret it. The glamour, confidence, and allure associated with Giorgio needed to be distilled into a form that felt more modern, more wearable, and less intrusive. This shift reflects a fascinating moment in perfumery history, when excess began to yield—however slightly—to sophistication.

Riding the extraordinary momentum of Giorgio, development of a new fragrance began toward the end of 1988, culminating in the 1989 launch of Red by Giorgio Beverly Hills. This release marked a significant transition for the brand, as it was the first fragrance introduced following the acquisition by Avon Products Inc. Notably, although Fred Hayman and Gayle Hayman had been instrumental in shaping the original Giorgio fragrance, neither played a role in the creation of Red. Instead, the perfume was developed and manufactured entirely under Avon’s direction, through its Giorgio Beverly Hills division.

At the time, the Giorgio business—headquartered in Santa Monica—employed approximately 200 people, reflecting the scale and ambition of the operation. Red thus emerged not only as a response to shifting olfactory preferences, but also as a statement of a new corporate era. It sought to preserve the aura of luxury and visibility that had defined the brand, while recalibrating its expression for a consumer increasingly attuned to balance and sophistication.

 
Making the Scent: 


To interpret the word “Red” in scent is to translate color into emotion, and emotion into olfaction. Red suggests warmth before one even encounters the perfume itself—it implies a slow radiance rather than the blinding brightness of white florals or the sharp green bite of earlier compositions. In fragrance terms, “Red” reads as a glowing aura: velvety florals deepened by warmth, a softness that is not fragile but enveloping. It is the scent equivalent of candlelight against polished skin, of silk warmed by the body. Where the original Giorgio projected outward with assertive brilliance, Red turns inward, suggesting intimacy, depth, and a more controlled sensuality. It is not the color of sunlight, but of embers—smoldering, persistent, and quietly magnetic.

Created by Bob Aliano, the fragrance was the result of an unusually extensive development process. As Michael Gould explained, the creation of Red spanned two years and engaged “the world's foremost perfumers.” He articulated the ambition clearly: “Given the phenomenal success of original Giorgio Beverly Hills, our challenge was to create a new fragrance that captures yet another dimension of today's woman and fulfills her needs for tomorrow.” This notion of “another dimension” is critical—Red was not intended to replace Giorgio, but to expand the emotional and aesthetic vocabulary of the brand. Where one was bold and extroverted, the other would be nuanced, reflective, and quietly compelling.

This duality was echoed in how the fragrance was positioned for wear. While the original Giorgio could be worn “undauntingly during the daytime hours by an audacious woman,” Tim Carr noted that “Red is for nighttime and for the quieter, subtler woman.” The distinction is telling—not a retreat from glamour, but a recalibration of it. Advertising reinforced this idea with poetic restraint: “Nothing so soft was ever so exciting. The subtle new sensation from Giorgio Beverly Hills, an unexpected fragrance, as distinctive as our famed original, yet slightly softer and dramatically different in style and expression.”

The language itself mirrors the scent’s intent—contrast held in balance, softness infused with tension.
One of the most innovative aspects of Red lay in its use of what was then described as “living flower technology,” a scientific advancement that sought to capture the aroma of flowers in their living state, rather than after cutting or drying. This method was employed for key materials—living osmanthus, living carnation, and living jasmine—imbuing the fragrance with a vividness that aimed to feel immediate and lifelike. As Mary Carley explained, Red was called a “living fragrance” because “the oils and essences combined to make the formula are extracted from living flowers rather than cut or dried ones.” This concept of vitality—of scent captured at its peak—aligned beautifully with the emotional resonance of the name itself: Red as pulse, as life, as something in motion rather than fixed.

The composition, reportedly built from 692 costly ingredients, was classified as an aldehydic floral oriental and intriguingly described by the company as under the unique category of “Fleuriffe Chypre.” Though this designation never became widely adopted, it reflects an attempt to articulate something genuinely hybrid—where a floral heart, a chypre-like structure, and oriental warmth coexist in delicate proportion. Described succinctly, the fragrance is “Sophisticated. Vibrant. Warm, surprisingly soft, yet intensely personal.” Its floral chypre accord is so understated that it was heralded as a modern classic, suggesting refinement rather than overt structure.

Press materials capture the composition with evocative clarity: “Comprised of a complex blend of floral, Oriental, fruity and chypre notes, it captured the scents of living flowers at their fragrance peak and delivered it to you. A fruit bowl of bergamot, orange, peach, black currant and cherry start off the olfactory journey. This is met with an aromatic blend of herbs and spices - nutmeg and sage with a touch of living osmanthus to help temper the sweetness. Followed by an opulent floral heart of living carnation, rose de mai, living jasmine, gardenia, narcotic tuberose and mimosa. It finished with the warmth of amber, vanilla, vetiver, creamy sandalwood, patchouli and earthy oakmoss.” The description itself underscores the balance between richness and restraint—an orchestration designed to feel expansive, yet controlled.

In the context of its time, Red occupies a fascinating position. The late 1980s were dominated by assertive, high-projection fragrances—opulent orientals and bold florals that prioritized presence and longevity. In this sense, Red does not entirely reject prevailing trends; its complexity, richness of materials, and layered structure align with the era’s taste for statement perfumes. However, its execution—particularly its emphasis on softness, subtle transitions, and a more intimate diffusion—marks it as a departure. It can be seen as both a continuation and a refinement: a bridge between the unapologetic exuberance of the 1980s and the more controlled, polished sensibilities that would emerge in the 1990s.

Michael Gould’s observation encapsulates this evolution: “All our research shows that women are finding it a much softer, distinctively different fragrance. Current Giorgio users say they see it as a more formal, special occasion scent, a complement to the Giorgio they're already wearing. We're trying to build on this whole wardrobing thing in fragrance, to create a whole new market.” This idea of “wardrobing”—of selecting fragrance as one would select attire—was forward-thinking, positioning Red not as a replacement, but as an essential counterpart. In this way, Red was both of its time and slightly ahead of it: rooted in the richness of the late ’80s, yet already gesturing toward a more nuanced, situational approach to scent.


Launch:


The launch of Red by Giorgio Beverly Hills was conceived not merely as a retail debut, but as a theatrical event—an immersive expression of the fragrance’s identity. Saks Fifth Avenue, the first department store to carry the scent, staged the introduction with unmistakable opulence, giving it the full “red carpet treatment.” Guests were welcomed into an environment saturated in the color and emotion of the fragrance itself: champagne circulated by butlers clad entirely in red, while models in flowing crimson gowns moved gracefully through the space, offering samples. The setting was lush and sensory—rooms filled with abundant fresh flowers, a pianist “tickled the ivories” on a red baby grand piano, accompanied by a saxophonist whose instrument, even down to its lacquer, echoed the theme. It was not simply a product launch; it was a carefully orchestrated atmosphere designed to embody the warmth, glamour, and enveloping allure suggested by the name Red.

The fragrance itself was positioned firmly within the prestige category, with pricing that underscored its luxury credentials. It retailed from $28 for a dusting powder to an impressive $175 per ounce of parfum, reinforcing its image as an indulgence rather than an everyday commodity. Distribution was initially limited, heightening desirability through exclusivity—Saks held the first rights, before the fragrance gradually expanded into other high-end retail environments. The rollout was strategic and measured: it debuted in the Bay Area at I. Magnin on February 5, 1989, followed closely by Macy's on February 12. This staggered expansion allowed anticipation to build while maintaining the aura of exclusivity that had long defined the Giorgio name.

To personify the lifestyle associated with the fragrance, the brand enlisted Robin Leach, the unmistakable voice of Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous. His presence was more than promotional—it was symbolic. After purchasing a bottle, customers were invited to meet Leach, who would sign glossy photographs or even the boxed bottles themselves, transforming the purchase into a personal, almost collectible experience. Leach embraced the role enthusiastically, reflecting on the lineage of the brand: “The original fragrance (Giorgio) was an exciting, powerful fragrance that made a statement. Perhaps it was a little like me. When people think of me, they think of that lifestyle that is represented by Rodeo Drive and Beverly Hills. Giorgio of Beverly Hills bottled it. You knew when someone was wearing Giorgio.” His commentary reinforced the continuity between the original fragrance and its successor—Red was not abandoning that identity, but refining it.

Leach also provided insight into the reception of the fragrance among influential women of the time. When the company tested Red with notable figures such as Ivana Trump, Kathie Lee Gifford, and Liza Minnelli, the response was tellingly aligned with the brand’s intentions: “Everyone of the ladies said, ‘This is something special. It's soft, yet still makes that statement. It really does weave magic. It makes a soft, subtle statement.’” The repetition of “statement”—tempered now by “soft” and “subtle”—perfectly captures the recalibrated ethos of Red.

Leach was not alone in representing the fragrance. Hildegard Coghlan, the national spokesperson for the brand, made a personal appearance to introduce Red at Robinson’s in Los Angeles, further reinforcing its high-profile rollout. As distribution widened, the fragrance found its place in an array of prestigious department stores, including Nordstrom, Bloomingdale's, Dillard's, Belk, and Filene's, among others—each placement reinforcing its status within the upper tier of American retail.

Commercial expectations were ambitious, with Avon Products Inc and Giorgio Beverly Hills predicting that Red would generate $100 million in new sales. Remarkably, the fragrance not only met but exceeded these projections. Within just six weeks of its February 1989 launch, it was reported to have achieved “the biggest debut in fragrance history,” surpassing even the original Giorgio, which had previously held that record. 

By May, according to Michael Gould, national retail sales were averaging more than $1 million per week—a staggering figure that underscored the scale of its success. By the end of spring, Red was expected to be available in more than 450 stores, though demand proved so overwhelming that several planned launch events had to be postponed until the fall to accommodate the surge in reorders. Even by June 1989, when it was stocked in approximately 485 stores, the pace of expansion was dictated not by ambition, but by the practical challenge of keeping up with extraordinary demand.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Red is classified as an aldehydic floral oriental fragrance for women. It is a complex scent composed of 692 costly ingredients. Sophisticated. Vibrant. Warm, surprisingly soft, yet intensely personal. Red was at the time, dramatically unlike any existing fragrance on the market. Red's floral chypre accord is so subtle, that it was hailed as a modern classic. 

"Comprised of a complex blend of floral, Oriental, fruity and chypre notes, it captured the scents of living flowers at their fragrance peak and delivered it to you. A fruit bowl of bergamot, orange, peach, black currant and cherry start off the olfactory journey. This is met with an aromatic blend of herbs and spices - nutmeg and sage with a touch of living osmanthus to help temper the sweetness. Followed by an opulent floral heart of living carnation, rose de mai,living jasmine, gardenia, narcotic tuberose and mimosa. It finished with the warmth of amber, vanilla, vetiver, creamy sandalwood, patchouli and earthy oakmoss."
  • Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Tunisian orange blossom, Portugal orange, peach, living osmanthus, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Polish black currant, hyacinth, cherry, Jamaican nutmeg, Ceylon cardamom, Lebanese cassie, Hungarian sage
  • Middle notes: living carnation, Bulgarian rose, Grasse rose de mai, North African marigold, living jasmine, Spanish rosemary, gardenia, Riviera tuberose, Florentine iris, lily-of-the-valley, litchi, Nice mimosa
  • Base notes: spices, Maltese labdanum, Penang patchouli, Tonkin musk, Yugoslavian oakmoss, ambergris, Atlas cedar, Mysore sandalwood, Haitian vetiver, Venezuelan tonka bean, Bourbon vanilla, Sudanese myrrh, Somalian olibanum

 

Scent Profile:


Red by Giorgio Beverly Hills unfolds with the poised brilliance of an aldehydic floral oriental, yet its character is not one of sharpness, but of warmth diffused through silk. It opens in a luminous haze of aldehydes—those effervescent, almost champagne-like molecules that sparkle above the composition. These are not naturally extractable materials but carefully constructed aroma-chemicals, often built around fatty aldehydes such as C10, C11, and C12, which smell of waxed citrus peels, polished linen, and cool metallic air. Here, they lift the fruit and florals, lending a radiant diffusion that feels expansive yet refined rather than harsh.

The citrus and fruit accord that follows is vivid, almost tactile. Calabrian bergamot—prized for its bright, green-tinged citrus oil grown along Italy’s sunlit southern coast—introduces a refined bitterness and aromatic lift that distinguishes it from flatter, less nuanced citrus varieties. It is joined by Portuguese orange and Tunisian orange blossom, the latter bringing a honeyed, softly indolic floralcy that bridges fruit and flower. 

Peach emerges as a plush, velvety sweetness—its natural essence too delicate to extract directly, thus recreated through lactonic aroma-chemicals that evoke the creamy fuzz of ripe fruit. Polish black currant adds a tart, slightly sulfurous edge—its “catty” nuance derived from molecules such as cassis bases that amplify realism—while cherry lends a dark, almost liqueur-like richness. Together, these fruits feel less like a simple bouquet and more like a glowing, ripened abundance.

Threaded through this opening is the remarkable presence of “living” materials—living osmanthus and Nossi-Bé ylang-ylang in particular. Osmanthus, often associated with China but here rendered through advanced headspace technology, exudes an apricot-leather aroma, both fruity and faintly animalic, tempering the sweetness with sophistication. Ylang-ylang from Nossi-Bé, an island off Madagascar, is especially prized for its creamy, banana-like floral richness, softer and more rounded than other origins.

Hyacinth contributes a cool, watery green note—its scent largely reconstructed through synthetics such as phenylacetaldehyde, since true extraction yields little usable oil. Spices begin to flicker at the edges: Jamaican nutmeg, warm and slightly camphoraceous, and Ceylon cardamom, fresher and more citrusy than its Indian counterparts. Lebanese cassie adds a golden, powdery floral warmth, while Hungarian sage introduces an aromatic, almost herbal dryness that reins in the fruit’s opulence.

As the fragrance settles, the heart reveals itself in a slow, opulent bloom. Living carnation unfurls first—spicy, clove-like, its natural oil enriched by eugenol-based molecules that heighten its peppery warmth. Bulgarian rose, known for its deep, honeyed richness, intertwines with the more delicate, luminous Grasse rose de mai, whose fleeting harvest in southern France yields an essence of exceptional softness and nuance. 

Living jasmine follows, narcotic and indolic, capturing the scent of the flower at its peak—its headspace extraction preserving the living bloom’s breathlike sensuality, enhanced by molecules such as hedione that lend radiance and diffusion. Gardenia, notoriously impossible to distill, is recreated through a blend of lactones and white floral synthetics, giving a creamy, almost coconut-like lushness. Riviera tuberose deepens the floral heart with its heady, narcotic sweetness, while Florentine iris introduces a cool, powdery elegance derived from aged orris root, prized for its violet-like, buttery facets. 

Lily-of-the-valley, another flower that cannot be extracted, is rendered through classic molecules like hydroxycitronellal, adding a dewy, green brightness. Litchi and Nice mimosa lend soft fruit and pollen-like warmth, while Spanish rosemary and North African marigold add aromatic and slightly bitter green accents, ensuring the heart never becomes overly sweet.

The base of Red is where its warmth truly reveals itself—deep, resonant, and quietly enveloping. Maltese labdanum provides a resinous, ambered richness, its leathery sweetness forming the backbone of the chypre-oriental structure. Penang patchouli, sourced from Malaysia, is smoother and less earthy than Indonesian varieties, offering a refined, woody depth. Tonkin musk—originally animal-derived but here recreated through sophisticated synthetic musks—adds a soft, skin-like sensuality, diffusive and intimate. Yugoslavian oakmoss anchors the composition with its earthy, forest-floor dampness; though modern formulations rely on low-allergen or synthetic substitutes, its presence evokes the classical chypre structure, lending gravitas and subtle shadow.

Ambergris, now ethically replaced by synthetic analogues such as ambroxan, imparts a mineral warmth—salty, slightly animalic, and luminous, extending the fragrance’s longevity while giving it a glowing, skin-like aura. Atlas cedar introduces a dry, pencil-shaving woodiness, while Mysore sandalwood—historically revered for its creamy, milky smoothness—adds a soft, enveloping warmth, often recreated today through sandalwood molecules that preserve its texture. 

Haitian vetiver contributes a smoky, rooty dryness, cleaner and more elegant than its heavier Javanese counterpart. Venezuelan tonka bean and Bourbon vanilla weave a sweet, coumarinic warmth—notes of almond, hay, and caramel—tempered by the balsamic depth of Sudanese myrrh and Somalian olibanum, whose incense-like smokiness adds a spiritual, almost meditative dimension.

What emerges from this intricate construction of 692 materials is not simply complexity, but balance—“Sophisticated. Vibrant. Warm, surprisingly soft, yet intensely personal.” The floral chypre accord, though present, is rendered with such subtlety that it feels more like a whisper than a structure, a modern reinterpretation of a classical form. At a time when many fragrances sought to dominate through sheer power, Red achieved distinction through nuance—its richness diffused, its intensity softened, its presence felt not as an intrusion, but as an aura.



Bottles:



The packaging of Red by Giorgio Beverly Hills was conceived as an immediate visual departure from the sunlit yellow-and-white identity of the original Giorgio, yet it retained the same spirit of exuberance. Cloaked in vivid red and accented with purple, the presentation radiates warmth, drama, and sensuality—colors that echo the emotional language of the fragrance itself. The pairing is striking: red conveys heat, vitality, and allure, while purple introduces a note of richness and sophistication, suggesting depth beneath the surface brightness. As Michael Gould explained, “We wanted a softer fragrance, but we didn't want to lose the vitality and fun that people said Giorgio was all about.” This philosophy is perfectly embodied in the packaging—visually bold and celebratory, even as the scent within moves toward a more refined and intimate expression.




The bottles for both Giorgio and Red were produced in France by Verreries Brosse, a house long associated with high-quality perfume flacons. For the parfum, the presentation is particularly elegant: a tall, slender column of crystal, capped with a substantial crystal stopper. The proportions are elongated and architectural, evoking a sense of poise and verticality—almost like a column of light captured in glass. There is a quiet luxury in this simplicity; the clarity and weight of the crystal allow the color of the fragrance itself to glow from within, reinforcing the idea of Red as something radiant and alive.

Within this flacon resides the parfum—also known as extrait, parfum classic, or extrait de parfum—the most concentrated and luxurious form of fragrance. Typically composed of 20–30 percent aromatic oils suspended in high-grade alcohol with only a trace of water, vintage parfums could reach even greater richness, often containing 22–40 percent essential oils. This density gives parfum its remarkable longevity, allowing it to linger on the skin for anywhere from 7 to 24 hours. It is not merely worn, but absorbed, unfolding slowly and intimately over time. Such concentration also explains its status as the most expensive form of perfume—each drop is a distillation of both material cost and craftsmanship.

The Extraordinary Eau de Toilette offered a lighter interpretation, yet it was composed from the same rare ingredients as the parfum, preserving the integrity of the scent while adjusting its diffusion. Eau de Toilette, or “toilet water,” is a more diluted expression, generally containing 4–10 percent essential oils in a softer alcohol and water base—though vintage examples often reached 5–15 percent, making them notably richer than many modern equivalents. With a lifespan of around three hours, it was designed for ease and flexibility: to be splashed or sprayed generously, refreshed throughout the day, and particularly suited to daytime wear or warmer climates. It occupies a middle ground—less intimate than parfum, yet more substantial than cologne—serving as both a standalone fragrance and a complement, or “booster,” to the richer extrait.

The Extraordinary Cologne Spray, introduced alongside the parfum, extended this spectrum further. Also blended from the same rare materials, it offered the lightest and most refreshing expression of Red. Cologne, typically containing 3–5 percent essential oils in a more diluted alcohol-water mixture, is fleeting by design, lasting approximately two hours. Its purpose is not depth, but immediacy—a brisk, invigorating veil of scent meant to be applied liberally. Ideal for daytime, warm weather, or post-bathing use, it imparts a sense of freshness and vitality. 

Interestingly, concentrated cologne sprays of this era could still possess considerable presence, sometimes functioning as a complete fragrance in their own right, while also serving as a revitalizing layer throughout the day. In time, the Red Extraordinary Cologne was replaced by the Eau de Toilette, reflecting a shift toward slightly richer, longer-lasting formulations within the same olfactory family.

Together, these varying concentrations form a complete fragrance wardrobe—each iteration of Red calibrated for a different moment, mood, or setting. From the enduring intimacy of parfum to the airy freshness of cologne, the fragrance was designed not as a single experience, but as a continuum—an idea entirely in keeping with the brand’s vision of versatility, luxury, and lived glamour.


Product Line:


The Red fragrance line included:
  • 1/8 oz Extraordinary Parfum miniature
  • 0.25 oz Extraordinary Refillable Parfum Purse Spray (retailed for $60)
  • 0.25 oz Extraordinary Parfum (retailed for $60)
  • 1 oz Extraordinary Parfum (retailed for $175)
  • 1.7 oz Extraordinary Spray Cologne (retailed for $47)
  • 2 oz Extraordinary Spray Cologne (1991)
  • 3 oz Extraordinary Spray Cologne (retailed for $45)
  • 3.3 oz Cologne (retailed for $60)
  • 0.33 oz Eau de Toilette Purse Spray
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 3 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 1 oz Extraordinary Perfumed Body Moisturizer with Collagen
  • 2 oz Extraordinary Perfumed Body Moisturizer with Collagen (1991)
  • 6.7 oz Extraordinary Body Moisturizer with Collagen (1998)
  • 8 oz Extraordinary Perfumed Body Moisturizer with Collagen (retailed for $30)
  • 8 oz Extraordinary Gel for Bath & Shower (retailed for $28.00)
  • 5 oz Extraordinary Body Treatment Cream (retailed for $45.00)
  • 4 oz Extraordinary Body Talc (retailed for $22.50)
  • 8 oz Extraordinary Perfumed Relaxing Bath (retailed for $28.50)
  • 3 oz Extraordinary Perfumed Body Silkening Dry Oil Mist (retailed for $32.50)
  • 1 oz Extraordinary Perfumed Dusting Powder
  • 2 oz Extraordinary Perfumed Dusting Powder
  • 5 oz Extraordinary Perfumed Dusting Powder (retailed for $28)
  • Extraordinary Self-Tanning Lotion
  • Extraordinary Soap Set, 3 bars with case (retailed for $25.00)
  • Red Extraordinary Miniature Candle



Fate of the Fragrance:



In 1994, Giorgio Beverly Hills entered a new corporate chapter when it was acquired by Procter & Gamble for $150 million. The brand was folded into a growing portfolio of prestige fragrances—alongside names such as Hugo Boss, Laura Biagiotti, and Otto Kern—under what became the P&G Prestige Beauté division. This move signaled a shift from the boutique-driven glamour of its origins toward a more structured, global luxury fragrance business. By 2003, licensing for the Giorgio Beverly Hills fragrance line transitioned to Elizabeth Arden Inc, which continues to oversee production and distribution. As of 2023, Red remains in production, a testament to its enduring appeal, though longtime devotees often detect subtle differences—evidence of the quiet but significant reformulations that have taken place over the years.

The most notable of these adjustments occurred around 2010, largely in response to evolving standards set by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). IFRA is the governing body that establishes safety guidelines for fragrance ingredients used in consumer products. These standards are not arbitrary; they are based on ongoing scientific research into allergenicity, toxicity, and environmental impact. When new data suggests that certain materials may pose a risk—whether through skin sensitization, phototoxicity, or ecological concerns—IFRA issues amendments that restrict or limit their use. For perfumers, this often necessitates reformulation: the careful rebalancing or substitution of materials to maintain the original character of a fragrance while complying with updated safety regulations.

For a composition as intricate as Red, built on a classical floral chypre-oriental framework, such changes would have had a noticeable impact, particularly in the base and heart. One of the most affected materials is oakmoss, here listed as Yugoslavian oakmoss—a cornerstone of traditional chypre perfumery. Rich, damp, and forest-like, oakmoss imparts depth and shadow, but it contains naturally occurring compounds such as atranol and chloroatranol, which are potent skin sensitizers. IFRA regulations drastically restricted its use, requiring either heavily purified “low-atranol” extracts or synthetic substitutes that mimic its earthy, mossy character. The result is often a cleaner, less dense base—one that retains structure but loses some of the original’s velvety darkness.

Similarly, natural musks such as Tonkin musk—historically derived from animal sources—have long been replaced by synthetic musks, both for ethical reasons and regulatory compliance. Modern musk molecules, such as macrocyclic and polycyclic musks, provide the same soft, skin-like warmth and diffusion, but with greater stability and safety. While these synthetics are remarkably sophisticated, they can alter the texture of a fragrance, making it feel lighter or more transparent compared to older, more animalic formulations.

Other materials likely affected include labdanum and certain balsamic resins, which can contain allergenic components requiring restriction or modification. Even ingredients like jasmine, rose, and citrus oils may be adjusted—not removed, but carefully fractionated or supported by aroma-chemicals to reduce allergenic compounds while preserving their olfactory signature. In many cases, modern perfumery leans more heavily on synthetic molecules such as hedione (for luminous jasmine effects), ionones (for violet and iris nuances), or woody ambers to reconstruct facets that were once achieved through richer natural extracts.

These reformulations do not necessarily diminish a fragrance, but they do shift its balance. In the case of Red, the overall impression remains—“Sophisticated. Vibrant. Warm, surprisingly soft, yet intensely personal.”—yet the texture may feel smoother, more polished, and slightly less dense than earlier vintages. For faithful users, these differences can be subtle yet perceptible: a lighter moss, a cleaner musk, a more diffusive floral heart. What endures, however, is the essence of the composition—a carefully orchestrated harmony that continues to evolve with time, shaped as much by regulation and innovation as by its original inspiration.



RED 2:



By 1996, Giorgio Beverly Hills found itself navigating a very different olfactory landscape from the one that had propelled Red to success in 1989. The mid-1990s marked a decisive shift in consumer taste: the era of bold, room-filling “power fragrances” was giving way to something lighter, more casual, and more transparent. Fragrance trends were increasingly shaped by the rise of fresh florals, watery accords, and playful fruity compositions—scents that felt effortless rather than assertive, intimate rather than declarative. 

In this context, the introduction of Red 2 in 1996 was not simply a sequel, but a strategic recalibration—an effort to reinterpret the Red identity for a generation whose preferences had softened.
There was also a clear commercial logic behind the launch. By the mid-1990s, the concept of “fragrance wardrobing”—already hinted at during the original Red launch—had matured into a key marketing strategy. Rather than relying on a single signature scent, consumers were beginning to rotate fragrances based on mood, occasion, or season. Introducing Red 2 allowed Giorgio Beverly Hills to expand the narrative of Red without replacing it: the original remained the richer, more dramatic expression, while Red 2 offered a lighter, more approachable alternative. It also served to attract a younger demographic—women who may have found the original Red too intense, but were drawn to its glamour and name recognition.

Olfactively, Red 2 reflects the prevailing trends of the time with striking clarity. Its composition—“mixing notes of juicy peach, fresh watermelon and tart strawberry warmed by the richness of balsamic vanilla, praline and precious woods”—leans into the emerging popularity of fruit-forward fragrances. Watermelon in particular was emblematic of the decade, often rendered through airy, ozonic aroma-chemicals such as Calone, which impart a watery, translucent freshness. These notes created a sense of buoyancy and ease, a marked departure from the dense florals and resinous bases of late-1980s perfumery. The sweetness of peach and strawberry, softened by creamy vanilla and gourmand praline, aligns with a growing appetite for edible, comforting accords—early precursors to the gourmand trend that would fully emerge by the end of the decade.

The brand’s own description captures this shift in tone: “Bright, fruity and flirtatious, Red 2 blends sun-kissed flowers and intoxicating fruits to create a delicious scent that is comfortable yet surprisingly sensual.” The language is telling—“bright,” “flirtatious,” “comfortable”—words that would have been almost inconceivable in the marketing of the original Giorgio or even Red. Sensuality here is no longer expressed through intensity or opulence, but through softness and approachability. It suggests a new kind of femininity—less about commanding attention, more about inviting closeness.

In this way, Red 2 stands as both a product of its time and a continuation of the Giorgio Beverly Hills legacy. It preserves the brand’s core identity—warmth, femininity, a touch of indulgence—while translating it into the lighter, more playful language of mid-1990s perfumery. Rather than competing with its predecessor, it complements it, offering a different facet of the same idea: where Red glows like embers, Red 2 sparkles like sunlight on fruit—easy, radiant, and unmistakably modern for its moment.




In October 1996, Linda LoRe, then president and CEO of Giorgio Beverly Hills, gathered seventy of the company’s sales representatives in St. Louis for a carefully orchestrated moment of direction and momentum. The setting itself reflected a cultivated sense of European-inflected elegance: lunch was held at Cafe de France, followed by dinner at Trattoria Marcella. It was during this intimate yet strategic gathering that LoRe outlined the brand’s forward trajectory, announcing that Red 2 would be launched for Valentine’s Day—timed deliberately to align with romance, gifting, and the emotional language of the fragrance—just as the company had begun distributing its fresh, aquatic-leaning Ocean Dream. The sequencing is telling: Giorgio Beverly Hills was actively broadening its olfactory portfolio, moving fluidly between sensual warmth and airy modernity in response to shifting consumer tastes.

LoRe’s remarks during the luncheon offered a revealing insight into the brand’s philosophy at a time when celebrity endorsements were becoming increasingly dominant in fragrance marketing. When asked why Giorgio Beverly Hills did not rely on what she termed “celeb-speak,” she responded with a clarity that underscored the brand’s identity: “Southern California is the celebrity and it's all about lifestyle. We don't do what others do, such as 'Use this and you'll feel like you're somebody else,' because with our products you'll just feel great.” This statement is particularly significant—it reframes aspiration not as transformation into another persona, but as an enhancement of one’s existing self. The glamour of Giorgio Beverly Hills was never about imitation; it was about participation in a lifestyle defined by sunlight, confidence, and ease. LoRe, drawing on her experience with May Department Stores and her tenure at Robinson’s in California, understood that the brand’s power lay in its environment as much as its products.

This philosophy extended seamlessly into the visual identity of Red 2. As with the original Red, the advertising featured Tatjana Patitz, one of the defining faces of the era. Patitz embodied a very specific kind of beauty—natural, poised, and quietly commanding—distinct from the more overtly theatrical glamour often associated with late-1980s campaigns. Her presence reinforced the idea of lifestyle over celebrity: she was not positioned as an unattainable icon, but as a figure who seemed to exist effortlessly within the world the fragrance evoked. In this way, the continuity between Red and Red 2 was preserved—not through scent alone, but through image, mood, and an enduring commitment to a distinctly Californian vision of understated luxury.

Press materials read: "Casual and playful= with a natural sexiness that radiates from a woman's inner joy and spirit. The fragrance comes to life with sparkling notes like watermelon, freesia,-hyacinth, pink princess peony, peach fizz, and pear William. Two fruity accords, strawberry daiquiri and rum cocktail add to its playful exuberance Becomes surprisingly seductive when the scent reveals the essence of three sensually-rich accords: red vanilla, precious woods and praline."


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Red 2 is classified as a fruity floral gourmand fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: watermelon, strawberry daiquiri accord, raspberry, and rum cocktail accord
  • Middle notes: jasmine, carnation, hyacinth, freesia, peach fizz accord, rose, pink princess peony, and pear William
  • Base notes: red vanilla, praline accord, and woodsy notes

Scent Profile:


Red 2 by Giorgio Beverly Hills opens with a sparkling, almost effervescent brightness that feels immediately playful—“casual and playful…with a natural sexiness that radiates from a woman's inner joy and spirit.” The first impression is a vivid splash of watermelon, that unmistakable watery sweetness so emblematic of 1990s perfumery. True watermelon yields no extract for fragrance, so its scent is conjured through airy aroma-chemicals—most notably ozonic molecules such as Calone—which evoke the cool, translucent freshness of chilled melon. 

This is layered with a “strawberry daiquiri accord,” where ripe strawberry—again largely reconstructed through fruity esters that smell jammy, slightly green, and candied—melds with a suggestion of lime and sugar, giving a cocktail-like fizz. Raspberry adds a deeper berry tone, often built from ionones and raspberry ketone, lending a velvety, slightly powdery fruitiness. The “rum cocktail accord” introduces warmth beneath the brightness—a boozy, caramelized sweetness created through blends of ethyl maltol, vanillic notes, and subtle spice molecules, suggesting the golden glow of rum without heaviness. Together, these top notes feel like a glass beaded with condensation—cold, juicy, and lightly intoxicating.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart blossoms in a soft, sunlit haze of florals and fruits, maintaining that sense of buoyancy. Jasmine appears first, luminous and slightly indolic, its natural absolute often supported by molecules like hedione to amplify its airy diffusion. Carnation follows with a gentle clove-like spice—its eugenol facet softened here, so it reads more as warmth than sharpness. Hyacinth contributes a cool, green-floral crispness, recreated through synthetics that evoke crushed stems and damp petals, while freesia brings a clean, peppery brightness that feels almost sheer. The “peach fizz accord” shimmers through the heart—built from lactones that give a creamy, fuzzy impression of peach skin, brightened by sparkling citrus-like molecules that create the illusion of effervescence. 

Rose adds a classic floral softness, likely blending Turkish or Bulgarian-style rose materials with modern aroma-chemicals for lift, while “pink princess peony”—a flower that yields no extract—must be entirely constructed, typically through rose, muguet, and fresh green notes to create its airy, petal-like delicacy. Pear William introduces a crisp, juicy sweetness, its scent achieved through esters like isoamyl acetate, which smell vividly of ripe pear with a slightly sparkling, almost champagne-like lift. The heart feels weightless yet full—florals and fruits interwoven so seamlessly that no single note dominates, creating instead a radiant, dewy bloom.

The base reveals the fragrance’s quieter, more sensual side, fulfilling the promise that it “becomes surprisingly seductive.” “Red vanilla” forms the core—richer and warmer than a simple vanilla note, suggesting a deeper, slightly spiced sweetness. Natural vanilla absolute from regions like Madagascar (often called Bourbon vanilla) is prized for its creamy, almost chocolate-like warmth, but it is typically enhanced with vanillin and ethyl vanillin to intensify its sweetness and projection. 

The praline accord introduces a gourmand facet—nutty, caramelized, and softly toasted—built through molecules like maltol and coumarin, which evoke sugar melting into warmth. Beneath this sweetness, “precious woods” provide structure and balance: smooth sandalwood-like creaminess (often recreated today through sandalwood molecules due to restrictions on natural Mysore sandalwood), gentle cedar dryness, and soft musks that create a skin-like finish. These musks—entirely synthetic—add diffusion and longevity, wrapping the composition in a subtle, intimate aura.

What makes Red 2 distinctive is the way these elements are orchestrated to feel both playful and polished. The synthetic components are not merely substitutes, but essential tools—they allow impossible fruits like watermelon and strawberry to feel vividly real, lend transparency to florals that might otherwise feel heavy, and create that signature 1990s “sheer” texture. The result aligns perfectly with its description: “Bright, fruity and flirtatious…a delicious scent that is comfortable yet surprisingly sensual.” It is a fragrance that moves with ease—from sparkling freshness to soft warmth—capturing a moment in perfumery when lightness, joy, and a touch of sweetness defined modern femininity.


Product Line:


The presentation of Red 2 by Giorgio Beverly Hills offered an immediate visual cue that this was a reinterpretation rather than a continuation of the original. Where Red was housed in a clear, polished flacon crowned with a warm gold-toned cap—an aesthetic that echoed its richness and classic glamour—Red 2 adopted a softer, more contemporary expression. Its bottle was rendered in frosted glass, diffusing light across its surface and lending it a gentle, almost velvety appearance, as though the brightness of the fragrance had been softened into a pastel haze. The silver-toned cap further reinforced this shift in tone: cooler, more understated, and unmistakably modern, it replaced the opulence of gold with a sleek, refined minimalism. Together, these design choices mirrored the fragrance within—lighter, more playful, and aligned with the fresh, airy sensibilities of the mid-1990s, while still retaining a quiet sophistication that linked it back to the Giorgio lineage.


Red2 was available in the following:
  • 1/8 oz Extraordinary Parfum Miniature
  • 0.25 oz Extraordinary Parfum (retailed for $85)
  • 0.33 oz Extraordinary Eau de Toilette Purse Spray
  • 1.7 oz Extraordinary Eau de Toilette Spray (retailed for $42.50)
  • 3 oz Extraordinary Eau de Toilette Spray (retailed for $55)
  • 6.7 oz Extraordinary Body Moisturizer (retailed for $30)
  • 6.7 oz Extraordinary Shower Gel (retailed for $28)
 




In Feb 1997, the Red 2 bath & body products were introduced. Eurocos was a distributor. Red 2 has been discontinued since 1998 I believe as I cannot find any other advertisements for after this date.

Tuesday, October 22, 2019

Ocean Dream by Giorgio Beverly Hills (1996)

Ocean Dream by Giorgio Beverly Hills was launched in 1996 in collaboration with Designer Parfums and Procter & Gamble. The name itself was carefully chosen to evoke both place and emotion. On the surface it suggests the vast, calming presence of the sea, but the word dream transforms the image into something more poetic and atmospheric. Rather than describing the ocean literally, it conjures the idea of drifting into a reverie inspired by the sea—soft breezes, endless horizons, sunlight dancing across waves, and the peaceful rhythm of tides. The name invites the wearer to imagine escape, serenity, and the intoxicating freedom associated with coastal life.

The inspiration for the fragrance was deeply tied to the cultural identity of Southern California, where the beach occupies an almost mythic place in daily life and popular imagination. Advertising for the perfume captured this idea beautifully with the line: “If you come very, very close, you can hear the ocean. Ocean Dream by Giorgio Beverly Hills. Let it take you there.” In Southern California culture, the ocean is more than scenery—it represents a lifestyle defined by sunlight, surf, leisure, and a certain relaxed glamour. By naming the perfume Ocean Dream, the brand sought to bottle the sensation of standing at the shoreline, breathing salt air, and feeling suspended between sky and sea.

The phrase evokes imagery that is both visual and emotional: turquoise water stretching to the horizon, white sand warmed by sunlight, and soft coastal breezes carrying the scent of flowers and sea mist. Emotionally, it suggests tranquility, renewal, and a gentle sensuality rather than dramatic intensity. Unlike heavier perfumes that evoke candlelit evenings or velvet interiors, Ocean Dream paints a picture of open air, bright light, and natural freedom. It is the scent of summer afternoons, beach walks at sunset, and the feeling of skin warmed by sun and cooled by ocean wind.



The fragrance emerged during the mid-1990s, a moment in perfume history defined by the rise of aquatic fragrances. This movement was sparked several years earlier by groundbreaking scents that introduced marine-inspired aroma molecules capable of recreating the smell of sea air and cool water. By the middle of the decade, perfumery had embraced a new aesthetic: fresh, transparent, and airy scents that contrasted with the heavy orientals and power florals of the 1980s. Fashion reflected this shift as well. Minimalism dominated runways and everyday wardrobes—sleek slip dresses, clean silhouettes, neutral palettes, and fabrics that moved fluidly with the body. The cultural mood leaned toward casual elegance and a natural lifestyle, perfectly aligned with the relaxed coastal imagery that Ocean Dream embodied.

The fragrance was created by master perfumer Alberto Morillas, known for his ability to craft luminous, modern compositions. Classified as a fresh aquatic fruity-floral fragrance, Ocean Dream was designed to capture the sensation of ocean air blended with delicate blossoms. Promotional materials described it as an “aquatic-floral” composed of multiple accords inspired by both sea and flowers. Among these imaginative notes were elements such as pink pearl, seaside heliotrope, aquatic orange blossom, blue sea sandalwood, and blue musk—terms that evoke marine imagery rather than strictly traditional perfumery ingredients. These accords suggest flowers that seem to bloom in the sea breeze and woods washed smooth by ocean water.

The concept of “water flowers” was central to the fragrance’s identity. Press descriptions highlighted notes such as pink pearl, inspired by a water lily said to grow in the North China Sea, and seaside heliotrope, a purple flower associated with warm Pacific coastal regions. Whether literal botanicals or imaginative accords, these notes help create the illusion of blossoms floating on water or carried by ocean mist. The result is a fragrance that feels airy, luminous, and gently fruity, with floral notes softened by the freshness of sea air.

In the context of perfumes available in the mid-1990s, Ocean Dream did not attempt to break radically new ground; rather, it embraced one of the most important fragrance trends of the era. Aquatic perfumes were enormously popular during this period, appealing to consumers who desired freshness and simplicity rather than heavy opulence. What distinguished Ocean Dream was its distinctly Californian sensibility—a blend of marine freshness, soft florals, and sunlit fruit designed to evoke the relaxed glamour of coastal life.

For women of the time, the perfume offered something aspirational yet approachable. Wearing Ocean Dream could feel like carrying a piece of the beach into everyday life—a sensory reminder of sunshine, freedom, and effortless beauty. Its name and scent together suggested a state of mind rather than merely a fragrance: a dreamy coastal escape captured in a bottle, where the breeze smells faintly of flowers and the horizon seems endlessly blue.  



Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? Ocean Dream is classified as a fresh, aquatic fruity floral fragrance for women. Press materials described it as "an 'aquatic-floral', it is composed of ten accords of oceanic and floral notes and is designed to celebrate the lifestyle of southern California. The use of sea elements like pink pearl, seaside heliotrope, aquatic orange blossom, blue sea sandalwood and blue musk gives Ocean Dream a fresh, airy aroma." 
  • Top notes: bergamot, peach, lemon, oceanic accord, freesia
  • Middle notes: pink pearl, aquatic orange blossom, water lily, water heliotrope
  • Base notes: oakmoss, blue sea sandalwood, ambergris, vanilla, blue musk, cedar and vetiver

Scent Profile:


Ocean Dream opens with a sensation that feels almost like stepping onto a sunlit shoreline where citrus trees and flowering plants grow just beyond the sand. The first impression comes from bergamot, the celebrated citrus grown primarily in Calabria, Italy, where the mineral-rich coastal soil and Mediterranean climate produce an oil of exceptional refinement. Calabrian bergamot is prized in perfumery because it possesses not only bright citrus sparkle but also subtle floral and slightly tea-like nuances. This elegant bitterness blends seamlessly with lemon, whose sharp, crystalline brightness evokes freshly cut peel releasing its aromatic oils into the air. Peach softens the citrus sparkle with a velvety sweetness reminiscent of ripe fruit warmed by the sun. In perfumery, the scent of peach is often recreated using lactone molecules, particularly gamma-undecalactone, which smell creamy, fruity, and slightly coconut-like, capturing the lush softness of peach flesh far better than natural extraction alone.

Floating through this opening is the perfume’s defining oceanic accord, the note that evokes sea air and the rhythm of waves. This effect is created through modern aroma molecules such as calone, a compound famous for its cool, watery scent reminiscent of sea breeze, wet stones, and fresh melon. Calone and related marine molecules revolutionized perfumery in the late twentieth century, allowing perfumers to recreate the smell of salt air and ocean mist—aromas that cannot be naturally distilled. Alongside this marine freshness blooms freesia, a delicate floral note whose true scent cannot be directly extracted from the flower. Instead, perfumers construct a freesia accord using molecules such as linalool and citronellol, producing a fragrance that feels light, airy, and slightly peppery, like a bouquet of fresh spring blossoms carried on the wind.

As the perfume develops, the heart reveals a garden of imagined “water flowers,” an accord designed to evoke blossoms drifting near the sea. Pink pearl, described in promotional materials as a water lily native to the North China Sea, suggests a delicate aquatic blossom with soft, watery petals. Whether inspired by an actual plant or created as an artistic accord, the effect is luminous and transparent, combining gentle floral sweetness with the cool sensation of water. Aquatic orange blossom follows, blending the creamy white-floral scent of neroli blossoms—traditionally distilled from bitter orange trees in North Africa or the Mediterranean—with watery marine nuances. The natural oil of orange blossom is prized for its radiant honeyed sweetness and faintly green citrus undertone, and when paired with aquatic molecules it takes on the impression of petals floating above a shimmering sea.

Another floral illusion appears through water lily, whose natural scent cannot be extracted directly from the flower. Perfumers recreate it with a blend of delicate watery molecules that suggest dew-covered petals and cool, transparent sweetness. This is joined by water heliotrope, an imaginative variation on the classic heliotrope note. Traditional heliotrope smells of almond, vanilla, and soft powder—an aroma created largely by the molecule heliotropin, which lends a sweet, marzipan-like warmth. In this aquatic version, the heliotrope effect is softened and diffused, becoming lighter and breezier, as though its sweet powdery aroma has been carried across open water.

The fragrance gradually settles into a base that evokes driftwood warmed by sunlight and the lingering sweetness of skin after a day at the beach. Oakmoss, historically harvested from forests in southern Europe, adds an earthy, forest-floor richness with subtle salty and leathery facets. In modern perfumery it is often recreated partially with synthetic moss molecules to comply with regulations, but its character remains unmistakably deep and grounding. Blue sea sandalwood represents a marine interpretation of sandalwood, traditionally derived from the creamy, milky wood of trees once abundant in Mysore, India. Mysore sandalwood has long been prized for its extraordinary smoothness and warmth; in an aquatic composition it is often blended with marine notes to evoke the scent of pale driftwood bleached by sun and sea.

A soft glow emerges from ambergris, historically a rare substance found floating in the ocean, prized for its complex scent—salty, warm, slightly sweet, and faintly animalic. Today its effect is recreated with molecules such as ambroxan, which produce a radiant amber warmth and remarkable longevity while preserving the marine character. Vanilla, typically sourced from the cured pods of orchids grown in Madagascar, adds creamy sweetness reminiscent of warm custard and sun-dried beans. The sweetness is balanced by cedar, whose dry, pencil-wood clarity provides structure, and by vetiver, a root often grown in Haiti or Java that smells earthy, slightly smoky, and cool like damp soil after rain.

Finally, the base is wrapped in blue musk, a modern musk accord designed to feel clean, airy, and oceanic rather than heavy or animalic. Synthetic musks such as galaxolide or helvetolide create a soft skin-like aura that gently diffuses the entire fragrance, giving it the sensation of warmth radiating from sun-kissed skin. These molecules also enhance the longevity of lighter floral and aquatic notes, ensuring that the perfume remains present yet weightless.

Together these elements create the impression of standing at the edge of the Pacific coast: citrus trees nearby, delicate flowers carried on the sea breeze, and smooth driftwood resting along the shore. Natural materials provide depth and texture, while carefully chosen aroma molecules evoke the cool clarity of water and salt air. The fragrance unfolds like the landscape that inspired it—bright, airy, and endlessly blue, capturing the dreamy sensation of the ocean stretching beyond the horizon. 



New Woman, 1996:
"THE NAME: Ocean Dream. ... The Concept: The glass bottle has a weathered, Coke-bottle-washed-by-the-sea appeal and the ingredients are "olfactory interpretations of feelings inspired by the ocean." The Smell: A fresh fruity-floral, the scent contains "water flowers" like pink pearl, a water lily indigenous to the North China Sea, and seaside heliotrope, a purple flower found in warm Pacific waters."


Bottle:



The presentation of Ocean Dream was designed to visually capture the atmosphere of the sea itself. Rather than using clear or heavily colored glass, the bottle was crafted from iridescent pastel glass, its surface shimmering softly with subtle hues of aqua, pale lavender, seafoam green, and pearly blue. The effect recalls the appearance of weathered sea glass, the fragments of bottles and glass objects that have been tumbled smooth by waves and sand before washing ashore. Light moves across the surface of the bottle in gentle shifts of color, much like sunlight dancing across the ocean’s surface. This treatment gives the bottle an organic, almost mystical quality, as though it were an artifact recovered from the shoreline after years of drifting through saltwater and sunlight.

This distinctive finish was not merely decorative; it was the result of an unusually labor-intensive production process. According to the design publication Step-by-step Graphics (1996), the bottles were produced by Maddocks & Company, which created the vessel as a signature design for the fragrance. Each bottle was molded individually and finished by hand, an approach far more complex and costly than mass-produced perfume bottles. The iridescent coloration was achieved by introducing minerals or metal oxides into the molten glass during production. These additives react to heat and light in ways that produce the shifting pastel tones visible in the finished bottle. While visually striking, this technique significantly increased manufacturing costs, making the bottle itself a small work of artisanal glassmaking rather than a simple container.

Because of this elaborate craftsmanship, the fragrance entered the market at a price that some critics considered extravagant for the time. Commentators questioned the luxury positioning of the scent, asking rhetorically, “Who can afford $125 for half an ounce of perfume?” In the mid-1990s, such a price placed Ocean Dream firmly within the prestige fragrance category, particularly for a brand associated with the glamorous but accessible image of Giorgio Beverly Hills. Even the accompanying bath and body products were positioned as indulgent items. The body wash, priced around $27.50, represented the more affordable entry point into the line, yet it still conveyed a sense of luxury. Complementary products—including a moisturizer and a fragrant dusting powder—were offered at similar price levels, encouraging consumers to layer the scent through multiple stages of a bathing ritual.

Together, the presentation and product line reinforced the perfume’s concept of an immersive coastal fantasy. The iridescent glass bottle evoked sea glass and ocean light, while the coordinated bath products allowed the wearer to surround herself with the fragrance from shower to skin. In this way, Ocean Dream was marketed not merely as a perfume, but as an entire sensory escape—an object and experience designed to conjure the luminous beauty of the Pacific coast and the relaxed luxury of the Southern California lifestyle that inspired it.



Fate of the Fragrance:



By the end of the decade, Ocean Dream had quietly disappeared from the Giorgio Beverly Hills fragrance lineup. Although the perfume debuted in 1996 with considerable visual and marketing impact, it appears to have been discontinued sometime around 1999, definitely by 2001. Fragrance lines in the late 1990s often changed quickly as brands responded to shifting consumer tastes, and aquatic scents—once fresh and novel—were rapidly multiplying across the market. As new marine-inspired perfumes appeared each year, maintaining a fragrance’s distinct identity became increasingly difficult, and many compositions from that era were eventually phased out despite their initial popularity.

The name itself, however, did not vanish entirely. At a later point, the rights to Ocean Dream were acquired by Designer Parfums Ltd., a British company known for producing and distributing fragrances under licensed designer names. Designer Parfums has revived and reissued many scents connected to established fashion brands, often bringing them back to market for new audiences. Under their stewardship, the fragrance name Ocean Dream reappeared in production, allowing consumers to purchase a perfume carrying the familiar title and coastal theme.

Yet among collectors and longtime fans of the original Giorgio Beverly Hills release, there is a persistent sense that the newer version does not fully replicate the character of the 1996 composition. Online reviews and fragrance forums frequently note differences in the scent’s balance, longevity, and overall impression. Such changes are common when older perfumes are reissued. Reformulations may occur because certain ingredients have become restricted by modern regulations, are no longer economically viable, or have simply become unavailable. In addition, companies may adjust formulas to suit contemporary tastes or manufacturing practices.

As a result, the original Ocean Dream produced during the Giorgio Beverly Hills era has taken on a certain nostalgic status among fragrance enthusiasts. Vintage bottles—particularly those with the distinctive iridescent pastel glass packaging—are sometimes sought after by collectors who wish to experience the perfume as it was first released. While the modern version preserves the name and general concept, many aficionados consider the late-1990s formulation to be a unique expression of the aquatic trend of its time: a luminous, beach-inspired fragrance that captured the dreamy optimism of Southern California in the mid-1990s.

Saturday, April 20, 2019

Wings by Giorgio Beverly Hills (1992)

Wings by Giorgio Beverly Hills debuted in November 1992, during a moment when the fragrance industry was beginning to shift away from the assertive, power-laden perfumes of the 1980s toward something lighter, more expressive, and emotionally resonant. The selection of a name for a perfume is rarely accidental; in fact, it is one of the most difficult decisions in fragrance marketing. Perfume houses register thousands of names every year, anticipating future launches and protecting ideas long before a fragrance exists. Out of this vast landscape of possibilities, the goal is to find a single word—memorable, evocative, and emotionally charged—that captures the spirit of the scent. For Giorgio Beverly Hills, that word became Wings.

According to Linda LoRe, then president and CEO of Giorgio Beverly Hills, the inspiration for the name came from encountering the famous Winged Victory of Samothrace in Paris, the monumental Hellenistic sculpture displayed at the Louvre. The statue depicts the goddess Nike poised dramatically as if just alighting on the prow of a ship, her powerful wings swept back by the wind. The image is both triumphant and fluid—an embodiment of motion, liberation, and confidence. In choosing the name Wings, the brand sought to evoke precisely these emotions. The word suggests the exhilaration of movement, the sensation of rising above ordinary boundaries, and the idea of limitless possibility. To imagine wings is to imagine soaring through open sky, lifted by invisible currents—free, spontaneous, and unrestrained.

The imagery attached to the word “wings” carries deep symbolic weight. Wings have long represented transcendence and transformation in art and mythology. They imply escape from gravity and routine, the freedom to explore, and the exhilaration of new perspectives. In the context of a fragrance, the name subtly promises an emotional effect: wearing the perfume becomes an act of uplift. It suggests a woman who is spirited and self-possessed, someone who moves confidently through life with a sense of joy and independence. The name also evokes softness and sensuality—feathers brushing air, lightness, and graceful movement—qualities that mirror the fragrance’s airy floral composition.




The early 1990s provided an ideal cultural moment for such symbolism. The perfume arrived at the beginning of what is often described as the post-power era or the early 1990s transition in fashion and beauty, when the dramatic excess of the late 1980s began giving way to a more relaxed and expressive aesthetic. During the previous decade, fragrances had often been bold and commanding—dense florals, strong aldehydes, and heavy orientals that matched the era of power suits, big hair, and corporate ambition. By the early 1990s, however, cultural attitudes were shifting. Minimalism was emerging in fashion, championed by designers such as Calvin Klein and Donna Karan, while popular culture embraced a new sense of individuality and emotional authenticity.

This was also the period when music, film, and fashion were beginning to reflect a more introspective mood. The rise of alternative music and the grunge aesthetic—associated with figures like Kurt Cobain—contrasted sharply with the glossy glamour of the previous decade. Women’s fashion shifted toward softer silhouettes, fluid fabrics, slip dresses, oversized sweaters, and relaxed tailoring. Makeup trends moved toward natural tones, and hairstyles became less rigidly sculpted. The overall mood suggested a kind of liberated informality—less about overt displays of power and more about personal freedom and emotional expression.

In perfumery, this transition manifested in fragrances that felt lighter, more transparent, and more optimistic. Consumers began seeking scents that conveyed freshness, femininity, and spontaneity rather than sheer intensity. The name Wings spoke directly to these emerging desires. For women navigating the cultural landscape of the early 1990s, the concept of “wings” resonated with a growing sense of autonomy and possibility. Many women were balancing careers, personal independence, and evolving social roles, and a fragrance named Wings subtly echoed those aspirations. It suggested movement forward—an uplifting sense that life was opening outward rather than closing in.

To a woman encountering the perfume in 1992, the name would have conjured a vivid emotional narrative. It might evoke the feeling of stepping into a bright morning with the confidence to pursue one’s ambitions, or the sensation of traveling freely through a changing world. The word carries both strength and grace—powerful enough to lift one into the sky, yet delicate enough to glide effortlessly through air. In this way, Wings became more than just a fragrance name; it functioned as a metaphor for the era’s evolving idea of femininity: liberated, joyful, and endlessly capable of flight.



Making the Scent:

 
The name Wings invites interpretation not only through imagery but also through scent itself. If one were to translate the concept of “wings” into perfume, the result would be something that feels buoyant, expansive, and dynamic rather than heavy or grounded. In olfactory terms, wings suggest lift and movement—notes that rise quickly, shimmer in the air, and create the sensation of drifting upward. A fragrance built around such an idea would naturally open with bright, airy tones that seem to flutter and sparkle before settling gently onto the skin. The sensation is one of motion: a fragrance that seems to glide rather than sit still, evoking the lightness of feathers catching wind and the exhilaration of open sky.

Interestingly, when the name Giorgio Wings had been decided upon, the fragrance itself had not yet been finalized. Instead of relying solely on internal evaluations, the team at Giorgio Beverly Hills undertook a remarkably ambitious approach to selecting the final scent. Five different perfume compositions were created and distributed to a global panel of approximately 2,500 men and women. These participants were invited to evaluate the competing formulas and vote for their favorite. Each candidate fragrance explored a different interpretation of the idea behind Wings, incorporating exotic and unusual ingredients meant to evoke discovery, freedom, and sensuality. Among the materials were rare floral inspirations such as cactus orchid—an elusive blossom that blooms only at night—and a desert jasmine species known for its luminous fragrance in arid climates.

The process created a sense of anticipation around the perfume’s debut. No one knew which formula would ultimately be chosen until October 1, 1992, when Giorgio’s president and CEO, Linda LoRe, would make the final selection. The winning fragrance would then launch quietly in early November 1992 through Giorgio boutiques and mail-order distribution, an approach that maintained an aura of exclusivity. Only in January 1993 would the perfume reach department stores, allowing the brand to build intrigue and demand before its wider release.

The final composition—created by perfumer Jean-Claude Delville—was an extraordinarily complex structure said to contain 621 individual ingredients. While this number included both natural materials and aroma molecules that build the fragrance’s intricate accord system, it signaled the ambition behind the perfume’s design. The result was categorized as a green floral fragrance, opening with a bright, fruity-green lift before unfolding into a lush floral heart and settling into a soft, powdery base.

From the first moment on the skin, the fragrance seems to “take flight.” The opening introduces a vivid burst of ginger lily, green osmanthus, gardenia, and the imaginative notion of a “blue rose,” creating an airy yet radiant floral-green accord. These notes convey freshness and lift, echoing the upward motion implied by the name. As the perfume develops, it begins to glide gracefully into its heart, where cattleya orchid, jasmine, and lilac form a luminous bouquet that feels both expansive and elegant. Finally, the fragrance settles into a warm, comforting base of amber and musk—soft, sensual materials that provide grounding without weighing the composition down.

One of the most intriguing aspects of Wings was its use of what Giorgio described as “living flower technology.” This technique involves capturing the scent profile of a flower while it is still alive and blooming. Using a device connected to a gas chromatograph, a tiny filter is placed near or within the flower to collect the aromatic molecules released at peak bloom. Once removed, the captured scent is chemically analyzed to determine its molecular composition. Perfumers can then recreate the fragrance using a combination of natural oils and carefully selected synthetic aroma chemicals. This process allows perfumers to reproduce the aroma of flowers that cannot normally be distilled or extracted—such as certain orchids or fragile blossoms whose scent disappears once the flower is cut.

Within the context of the early 1990s fragrance market, Wings occupied an interesting position. On one hand, it followed the prevailing movement toward brighter, more transparent floral fragrances that characterized the transition from the bold perfumes of the 1980s into the softer aesthetic of the new decade. Many consumers were beginning to favor scents that felt uplifting and versatile rather than overwhelmingly dramatic. In this respect, Wings aligned with broader trends emphasizing freshness, florals, and airy compositions.

Yet the perfume was also distinctive in several ways. Its elaborate formula, extensive ingredient list, and emphasis on exotic floral notes gave it a sense of opulence that recalled the grand perfumes of the previous decade. The use of “living flower technology” also placed it at the forefront of a growing fascination with scientific techniques in perfumery—methods that allowed perfumers to capture scents previously impossible to reproduce. In this way, Wings bridged two eras: it retained the richness and complexity of late-1980s perfumery while embracing the lighter, more radiant style emerging in the early 1990s.

Ultimately, the fragrance embodied the emotional symbolism of its name. Like wings themselves, the perfume begins with lift and brightness, expands outward into a graceful floral flight, and finally comes to rest in a soft, comforting warmth. The composition moves through the air with fluidity and elegance, capturing the very sensation the name promises—the feeling of rising, gliding, and settling gently back to earth.


Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? Wings  is classified as a green floral fragrance for women. It begins with a fruity green top, followed by a floral heart, layered over a powdery base. Press materials describe it as "Composed of 621 ingredients, Wings takes off with a burst of ginger lily, green osmanthus, gardenia and blue rose; glides with cattleya orchid, jasmine and lilac; and comes to rest in a base of amber and musk."

  • Top notes: bergamot, peach, pineapple, passion flower, gardenia, ginger lily, blue rose, green osmanthus, violet, and marigold
  • Middle notes: Damascone Rose, lily of the valley, cyclamen, cattleya orchid, lilac, Shaffali jasmine, orris, heliotrope
  • Base notes: sandalwood, ambergris, musk, and cedar

Scent Profile:


Wings by Giorgio Beverly Hills unfolds like a graceful ascent into open air, beginning with a radiant burst of fruity-green brightness before drifting into a lush floral atmosphere and finally settling into a warm, powdery glow. Created by perfumer Jean-Claude Delville, the fragrance is famously composed of 621 ingredients, a complexity that allows each note to shimmer and overlap like currents of air supporting flight. The structure mirrors the idea of wings themselves—lift, glide, and rest—each stage revealing a different facet of floral luminosity and sensual warmth.

The fragrance begins with an exhilarating rush of citrus and succulent fruit. Bergamot, most prized when grown along the sun-drenched coasts of Calabria in southern Italy, introduces the composition with a sparkling citrus brightness—fresh, lightly bitter, and subtly floral. Calabrian bergamot is especially valued because its unique climate produces an oil with exceptional aromatic complexity compared to bergamot cultivated elsewhere. This crisp citrus quickly blends with the velvety sweetness of peach, whose fragrance in perfumery is largely recreated through aroma molecules such as gamma-undecalactone and gamma-decalactone. These molecules produce the creamy, sun-warmed scent of ripe peach skin—soft, juicy, and faintly lactonic—adding a plush fruitiness that feels both natural and luminous.

A tropical brightness follows through pineapple, whose juicy sweetness is typically reproduced through carefully balanced fruity esters and lactones that capture the tangy sparkle of freshly cut fruit. The pineapple’s radiant sweetness is tempered by passion flower, a botanical whose delicate fragrance is so subtle that perfumers must recreate its scent impression using floral and green aroma chemicals. The result is airy and exotic, suggesting the humid freshness of tropical blossoms drifting on warm breezes.

Interwoven into this fruity opening are the first hints of the fragrance’s floral character. Gardenia, with its creamy white petals and velvety sweetness, adds a lush floral richness. Because gardenia flowers yield almost no extractable oil, perfumers reconstruct its scent using materials such as methyl benzoate, lactones, and creamy floral aldehydes that recreate the buttery, coconut-like softness of the blossom. Beside it blooms ginger lily, a luminous flower native to tropical Asia whose scent combines the brightness of ginger with the creamy elegance of white petals. The flower’s scent is difficult to extract naturally, so its fragrance is recreated through spicy-floral molecules that evoke its radiant, slightly peppery sweetness.

The illusion of blue rose floats delicately through the opening as well. In nature, roses do not produce a true blue variety, making the note a poetic interpretation rather than a literal botanical. Perfumers recreate the concept using rose absolutes enhanced with violet-like molecules and airy aldehydes, producing a cool-toned floral nuance that feels fresh and slightly ethereal—suggesting the color blue translated into scent. This floral freshness is deepened by green osmanthus, derived from the tiny blossoms of Osmanthus fragrans, traditionally cultivated in China. Osmanthus absolute is prized for its remarkable complexity: apricot-like fruitiness blended with leathery, tea-like undertones. The “green” aspect in Wings emphasizes the leafy freshness of the flower, giving the opening a bright botanical character.

A powdery softness begins to appear through violet, whose scent is typically recreated using ionones—aroma molecules that smell delicately floral, powdery, and slightly woody. Ionones are fascinating compounds; they were among the first synthetic molecules used widely in perfumery, and they also have the curious ability to temporarily dull the sense of smell after prolonged exposure. Violet’s cool sweetness contrasts beautifully with the vivid brightness of marigold, also known as tagetes. Often cultivated in Egypt for perfumery, tagetes oil possesses a striking aroma—green, fruity, slightly leathery, with hints of apple and herbs. In small amounts it provides a sparkling, almost mischievous sharpness that prevents the opening from becoming overly sweet.

As the fragrance glides into its heart, the composition becomes more floral and velvety. Damascone rose plays an important role here. Damascenones and damascones are powerful aroma molecules derived from the breakdown of natural rose components. These materials smell intensely rosy yet also carry nuances of plum, honey, and dried fruit. They dramatically amplify the richness of rose accords, allowing perfumers to create the sensation of an entire rose garden from only tiny quantities.

The delicate sweetness of lily of the valley soon emerges, fresh and dewy like morning air after rain. This flower cannot be distilled for its scent, so its fragrance is reconstructed using molecules such as hydroxycitronellal and lyral, which reproduce the crystalline floral purity of the blossom. Alongside it appears cyclamen, another floral note created entirely through perfumery chemistry. Cyclamen aldehyde gives the fragrance a watery, airy quality reminiscent of cool petals floating on a breeze.

Exotic depth arrives through cattleya orchid, one of the most luxurious orchids known for its lush, tropical fragrance. True orchid oil cannot be extracted, so perfumers craft the illusion using creamy floral materials and subtle fruity notes that evoke the orchid’s velvety sweetness. The orchid accord blends beautifully with lilac, whose delicate springtime aroma is recreated through a blend of aldehydes and floral molecules that capture its soft, airy freshness.

One of the most intriguing flowers in the heart is Shaffali jasmine, inspired by desert-growing jasmine species known for their luminous scent under extreme heat. Jasmine itself is one of perfumery’s most treasured materials, especially when grown in regions like Grasse in France or the Nile delta of Egypt. Its aroma is intoxicating—rich, honeyed, slightly indolic, with facets of ripe fruit and warm skin. In modern perfumery, natural jasmine absolute is often enhanced with molecules such as hedione, which adds a radiant, airy jasmine glow that seems to float outward from the skin.

Supporting the florals is orris, derived from the aged rhizomes of iris plants cultivated primarily in Italy and Morocco. Orris butter is one of the most expensive materials in perfumery because the roots must be dried and aged for several years before their violet-like scent develops. Its aroma is cool, powdery, and softly woody, lending the fragrance an elegant cosmetic softness. Complementing it is heliotrope, whose almond-like sweetness—reminiscent of marzipan and vanilla pastries—is recreated through molecules such as heliotropin. This note adds a nostalgic, velvety warmth to the heart.

As the fragrance finally settles, it drifts gently into its base, where warmth and sensuality take hold. Sandalwood, traditionally sourced from Mysore in India, contributes a creamy, milky woodiness with subtle sweetness. Mysore sandalwood was historically prized for its exceptional richness and smoothness compared to sandalwood grown elsewhere, though modern perfumery often supplements it with synthetic sandalwood molecules that recreate its velvety warmth while protecting the endangered trees.

The base also features the mysterious elegance of ambergris, historically produced in the digestive system of sperm whales and aged by the sea until it develops its distinctive scent. True ambergris has a complex aroma—marine, slightly sweet, animalic, and radiant. Today, perfumers often recreate its effect using molecules such as ambroxan, which produces a warm, glowing, almost skin-like sensuality that enhances longevity and projection.

Musk deepens the base with its soft, enveloping warmth. Natural animal musk is no longer used, so modern fragrances rely on a family of synthetic musks—clean, powdery, or slightly sweet molecules that mimic the sensual warmth of skin. These musks act as fixatives, allowing the fragrance to linger while adding a subtle aura of intimacy. Finally, cedarwood introduces a dry, slightly smoky woodiness. Cedar oil from Virginia or Texas has a crisp pencil-shaving aroma, while Atlas cedar from Morocco offers a deeper, resinous warmth. In Wings, cedar provides structure and quiet strength, grounding the softness of the powdery base.

Together, these ingredients create a fragrance that truly lives up to its name. The composition begins with brightness and lift, expands into an airy floral glide, and settles into a soft, comforting warmth. Each note contributes its own texture—fruity sparkle, creamy petals, powdery elegance, and woody depth—until the whole fragrance feels like a graceful arc through the air, rising effortlessly before coming to rest on the skin.
 


Bottles:



The presentation of Wings by Giorgio Beverly Hills was conceived as an integral extension of the fragrance itself, reflecting the perfume’s themes of imagination, uplift, and emotional escape. The bottle for the parfum was designed by Mary Scott of Maddocks & Company in Los Angeles, a designer who believed deeply that a perfume vessel should evoke the same sense of fantasy and pleasure as the fragrance within it. Scott once remarked in an interview with the Los Angeles Times in 1995 that perfume is fundamentally about feeling good and entering a world of imagination, and that the bottle is essential in creating that experience. In fact, she often began her design process without a fragrance name at all; sometimes the bottle itself would inspire the identity of the perfume.

For Wings, Scott drew inspiration from an unexpected and deeply personal source: a small keepsake seedpod her mother had once stored in a drawer. That memory translated into the bottle’s distinctive form—a small, rounded vessel with a softly swollen, almost organic silhouette. The design resembles a natural pod or sphere, as though it were something discovered rather than manufactured, a treasure shaped by nature. Topping the bottle is a smooth, ball-shaped stopper in luminous blue, suggesting the sky or perhaps a droplet of color suspended in air. The combination of the spherical body and rounded stopper gives the bottle a playful, almost whimsical presence. It feels tactile and intimate in the hand, echoing the fragrance’s themes of freedom and buoyancy.

The parfum itself was offered in several sizes, each maintaining the same charming proportions. The primary presentation was the 1-ounce Extraordinary Perfume (Parfum) bottle, which stands approximately four inches tall, making it small yet substantial enough to feel like a treasured object on a vanity table. A 0.25-ounce version offered a more compact option, while collectors often delight in the miniature 0.13-ounce bottle, which stands only about 1.75 inches tall yet perfectly replicates the form of the larger vessel. These miniature bottles capture the design’s essence in jewel-like scale, reinforcing the idea that the parfum was meant to feel precious and personal.

In contrast to the rounded parfum bottle, the Eau de Toilette spray appeared in a completely different presentation—a tall, slender bottle whose elongated lines suggested lift and upward movement. Where the parfum bottle felt intimate and organic, the Eau de Toilette bottle conveyed elegance and verticality, visually echoing the concept of wings rising into the air. This dual design approach allowed the fragrance to express both softness and dynamism: the squat sphere representing the concentrated essence of the scent, and the taller bottle embodying its airy diffusion.

Beyond the perfume itself, Wings was supported by an extensive collection of perfumed body products, reflecting the early-1990s trend toward layered fragrance rituals. The line included 1.7-ounce and 3-ounce Extraordinary Eau de Toilette sprays, along with a luxurious 5.3-ounce perfumed dusting powder, which would have left a soft veil of fragrance on the skin. Complementing this were indulgent body care products such as the 5.3-ounce perfumed body treatment cream, the 6.7-ounce perfumed shower gel, and several sizes of perfumed body moisturizer ranging from 3.4 ounces to an impressive 8.3 ounces. The ritual extended even further with 12-ounce “Exhilarating Bath Crystals,” designed to dissolve in bathwater and release a fragrant cloud of scent, transforming the act of bathing into a sensory escape.

At department store counters, customers would often encounter a dramatic oversized version of the perfume bottle known as a factice. These display bottles, created purely for visual impact, were not filled with actual perfume but with colored water carefully tinted to mimic the appearance of the fragrance. Standing approximately ten inches tall and seven inches in diameter, the factice was far larger than the retail bottles and served as an eye-catching centerpiece at the fragrance counter. These display pieces were typically loaned by the brand to retailers and were meant to be returned after the promotional period ended. However, over the years many were never sent back, and some have surfaced on the collectors’ market, becoming sought-after relics of the perfume’s original launch.

Together, the bottle design, product line, and dramatic counter displays formed a cohesive visual identity for Wings. The rounded parfum bottle suggested something personal and dreamlike, the tall Eau de Toilette bottle implied lift and elegance, and the luminous blue stopper added a touch of sky to the entire composition. In this way, the packaging itself became an extension of the fragrance’s message—an object meant to inspire imagination, capture a sense of flight, and transform the simple act of wearing perfume into a small moment of fantasy.




Fate of the Fragrance:



The history of Wings is closely tied to the shifting ownership of the Giorgio Beverly Hills fragrance line, reflecting the broader consolidation that occurred within the perfume industry during the late twentieth and early twenty-first centuries. Originally, the Giorgio Beverly Hills fragrance business came under the ownership of Avon Products in 1987. Avon recognized the strength of the Giorgio name—already associated with glamorous, sun-soaked Beverly Hills luxury—and continued to develop and market the brand’s perfumes throughout the late 1980s and early 1990s, including the launch of Wings in 1992.

In 1994, however, Avon sold the Giorgio Beverly Hills fragrance division to Procter & Gamble for approximately $150 million. Under P&G’s stewardship, Giorgio Beverly Hills was integrated into the company’s growing prestige fragrance portfolio and merged with its fine fragrance division known as Eurocos, which later evolved into P&G Prestige Beauté. This move placed the brand alongside other luxury perfume houses within P&G’s expanding global beauty business, ensuring broader distribution and continued production of its established scents.

Another significant change occurred in 2007 when Elizabeth Arden, Inc. acquired the worldwide licensing rights to Giorgio Beverly Hills fragrances. From that point forward, the perfumes—including Wings—have been produced and marketed through the company’s fragrance arm, EA Fragrances. Under this licensing arrangement, Elizabeth Arden oversees manufacturing, packaging, and distribution while maintaining the legacy of the original fragrance line.

Despite the many corporate transitions, Wings has remained in continuous production for decades, a testament to its enduring popularity. However, like many classic perfumes, the formula has inevitably evolved over time due to changing regulations governing fragrance ingredients. These regulations are largely established by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), which sets safety guidelines for materials used in perfumery. IFRA periodically restricts or limits certain natural ingredients—particularly those that may cause allergic reactions or environmental concerns. As a result, perfumers must adjust existing formulas to comply with new standards.

For Wings, one of the most noticeable reformulations occurred around 2010, when updated IFRA guidelines required modifications to several traditional perfume materials. Ingredients such as certain natural musks, oakmoss components, and other naturally occurring aromatic compounds have faced increasing restrictions over the years. To maintain the fragrance’s recognizable character while meeting safety regulations, perfumers often substitute restricted materials with modern aroma molecules or carefully reconstructed accords. While these reformulations aim to preserve the spirit of the original composition, longtime enthusiasts frequently notice subtle differences in depth, richness, or projection compared with earlier versions.

For collectors and perfume historians seeking the original vintage formulation of Wings, packaging details can offer important clues. Bottles and boxes produced during the early years of the fragrance prominently display the Giorgio Beverly Hills name. In contrast, later versions manufactured under Elizabeth Arden’s licensing arrangement typically bear the EA Fragrances designation. These newer packages often omit the Giorgio Beverly Hills branding altogether, making it relatively easy to distinguish between vintage and modern production. For those searching for the earliest expressions of the perfume as it was originally conceived in the early 1990s, bottles clearly marked with the Giorgio Beverly Hills name remain the most reliable indicators of the classic formulation.

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Welcome to my unique perfume blog! Here, you'll find detailed, encyclopedic entries about perfumes and companies, complete with facts and photos for easy research. This site is not affiliated with any perfume companies; it's a reference source for collectors and enthusiasts who cherish classic fragrances. My goal is to highlight beloved, discontinued classics and show current brand owners the demand for their revival. Your input is invaluable! Please share why you liked a fragrance, describe its scent, the time period you wore it, any memorable occasions, or what it reminded you of. Did a relative wear it, or did you like the bottle design? Your stories might catch the attention of brand representatives. I regularly update posts with new information and corrections. Your contributions help keep my entries accurate and comprehensive. Please comment and share any additional information you have. Together, we can keep the legacy of classic perfumes alive!