Parfums Moneau, Inc. was a small New York fragrance house operating from 18 East 49th Street in Manhattan, a prestigious midtown address situated near the heart of the city's luxury retail and business district. The company functioned as a division of Beau Val, Inc., suggesting that it was part of a larger corporate organization rather than an independent perfumery. During the late 1940s, the firm's executive staff included Richard Sussman as President, Andre Sussman as Executive Vice President, Helene Hartmann as Export Manager, S. S. Peisner as General Sales Manager, and Sara Fox as Director of Public Relations. This management structure indicates a company that maintained dedicated departments for sales, publicity, and international distribution despite its relatively modest perfume output.
Although Parfums Moneau appears to have had ambitions to establish itself within the competitive American fragrance market of the 1940s, only two perfumes are presently documented. The first, Discovery, was introduced in 1943 during the height of World War II, followed by If in 1944. The choice of names reflects the romantic and aspirational marketing trends common in the era, when perfume houses often favored evocative titles intended to stir imagination and emotion.
The company's later history remains obscure. Corporate records indicate that Parfums Moneau was involuntarily dissolved in 1985. This administrative action was taken by the state rather than by the company's owners and generally occurs when a corporation fails to maintain required filings, pay fees, or otherwise comply with corporate regulations. While the precise circumstances surrounding the dissolution are unknown, it suggests that the company had ceased active operations or was no longer maintaining its corporate status by that time. Today, Parfums Moneau survives primarily as a little-known chapter in American perfume history, remembered through its brief fragrance line and the surviving corporate records that document its existence.
- 1943 Discovery
- 1944 If...
Discovery:
Introduced in 1943, Discovery by Parfums Moneau was an oriental fragrance for women that reflected the rich, opulent style popular during the wartime and immediate postwar years. Contemporary descriptions characterized it as heavy, dry, powerful, and exceptionally long-lasting, placing it among the more assertive perfumes of its era. The fragrance was often compared to L'Origan by Coty, one of the most influential oriental-floral perfumes ever created, but Discovery reportedly placed greater emphasis on the warm, spicy sweetness of carnation. This would have given the fragrance a distinctive clove-like floral character, adding a sharper and more aromatic dimension to the soft powdery richness typical of L'Origan-inspired compositions.
Although no complete formula appears to have survived, its description allows for a reasonable reconstruction of the fragrance's likely character. The opening may have featured sparkling aldehydes combined with bergamot, sweet orange, or other citrus notes to provide initial brightness. The heart was probably built around carnation, whose naturally spicy aroma was often enhanced with eugenol, the principal aromatic component of clove oil. Supporting floral notes may have included rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, heliotrope, and orange blossom, all staples of oriental-floral perfumery during the 1930s and 1940s. Powdery accords created from iris, violet, and heliotropin would have contributed softness and elegance, while traces of cinnamon, clove, or nutmeg may have intensified the spicy floral theme.
The oriental base was likely rich and substantial, accounting for the perfume's noted strength and persistence. Materials such as vanilla, benzoin, labdanum, tonka bean, and amber accords would have supplied warmth and sweetness, while musk and civet—whether natural or synthetic—would have added depth and diffusion. Sandalwood and patchouli may also have been present, providing a dry woody foundation beneath the floral heart. The result would have been a fragrance that unfolded from spicy flowers into a warm, resinous, and slightly powdery oriental finish, lingering for many hours on the skin.
Discovery was presented in an attractive and highly thematic package. Early bottles were made of clear glass molded into a star shape and fitted with a frosted glass stopper formed as a globe, creating a design that complemented the perfume's adventurous name. Standing approximately 3½ inches tall, the bottle was housed in a box decorated with antique maps, reinforcing the theme of exploration and travel. Later editions retained the star-shaped bottle but replaced the elegant frosted stopper with a black plastic ball-shaped screw cap, reflecting changing manufacturing practices and cost considerations in the postwar decades.
The perfume remained in production for many years and appears to have survived well beyond the company's initial fragrance launches. It was eventually discontinued sometime during the 1970s, bringing an end to one of Parfums Moneau's most distinctive creations. Today, surviving bottles—particularly those retaining the original frosted globe stopper and map-decorated presentation box—are tangible reminders of a fragrance that sought to capture the romance of distant journeys and exotic discoveries through scent.
The New Yorker, 1943:"Moneau's Discovery, a dry, decisive scent in a star- shaped bottle with a globe stopper, is another."
Harper's Bazaar, 1944:""Discovery," a French-inspired perfume by Moneau, all the excitement the name implies ... a new friend ... an unexpected gift. The gleaming star-shaped crystal bottle is topped with a cloudy glass stopper showing in relief a map of the world."
If...
Launched in 1944, If was Parfums Moneau's second and final documented fragrance, introduced as a sophisticated spicy floral oriental intended for women who preferred elegance over overt sweetness. Contemporary descriptions emphasized its fresh yet alluring character, combining a dry, lemony opening with a warm oriental foundation. Advertisements referred to it as a "bouquet of 37 precious oils," a phrase likely intended to convey luxury and complexity rather than a literal ingredient count. During the 1940s, such claims were often used to suggest a carefully blended composition incorporating numerous natural essences imported from France, a notable selling point during and immediately after the war years when access to European perfume materials could be limited.
Based on surviving descriptions, the fragrance likely opened with bright citrus notes dominated by lemon, perhaps accompanied by bergamot, petitgrain, and sweet orange. The repeated references to a "lemony tang" and a dry freshness suggest that the top accord avoided excessive sweetness, instead emphasizing crisp, aromatic qualities. Supporting notes may have included lavender, rosemary, galbanum or clary sage, materials frequently used to lend refinement and lift to floral-oriental compositions of the era. Aldehydes may also have been incorporated to enhance diffusion and create a sparkling first impression.
The floral heart was probably rich and complex, befitting a perfume described as containing dozens of precious oils. Jasmine, rose, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, and carnation were among the most prized floral ingredients available to perfumers in the 1940s and would have been natural choices for a fragrance positioned as luxurious. Carnation, in particular, may have contributed a spicy floral nuance that bridged the fresh citrus opening and the oriental base. Additional floral materials such as violet, iris, lily-of-the-valley accords, or heliotrope may have added powdery softness and sophistication. The result would likely have been a fresh floral bouquet enlivened by subtle spice rather than an overtly sweet or heavily indolic composition.
The oriental base probably relied on a blend of vanilla, benzoin, tonka bean, amber accords, and warm resins to provide depth and longevity. Sandalwood may have supplied a creamy woody foundation, while patchouli would have introduced a dry, earthy character that complemented the fragrance's notably dry profile. Musk, ambergris, castoreum and civet—whether natural or synthetic—were common fixatives of the period and would have helped anchor the floral notes while extending the perfume's wear. The recommendation that If be worn on furs was particularly significant, as rich natural fabrics retained fragrance exceptionally well and were often used to showcase expensive perfumes during the 1930s and 1940s. This advice suggests a fragrance with substantial persistence and projection despite its fresh opening.
The presentation of If was among its most distinctive features. The perfume was housed in a stock bottle manufactured by Regent & Co., fitted into a transparent Lucite base that created striking refractive effects when displayed. Topping the bottle was a sapphire-blue stopper that provided a vivid contrast to the clear crystal-like glass. Around the neck hung a sterling silver charm enameled with the word "If..." which served as both label and keepsake. The reverse of the charm was marked "PARFUMS MONEAU, NEW YORK, STERLING," and owners were encouraged to remove it and add it to a charm bracelet after the perfume was gone. This clever combination of fragrance and jewelry reflected the growing popularity of charm bracelets in the 1940s and transformed the bottle into a fashionable accessory.
Some surviving examples of the bottle have appeared with a spurious "R. Lalique" signature applied to the base, likely added later in an attempt to increase value. However, there is no evidence that the bottle was designed or manufactured by René Lalique or his company. Contemporary trade publications clearly identify the container as a stock design supplied by Regent & Co., with the distinctive Lucite mounting and sterling charm serving as the primary decorative elements.
Contemporary reviews praised the fragrance's originality and elegance. Tricolor magazine described it as an oriental perfume with a lemony tang, made with imported French essential oils and presented in a crystal bottle resting on a clear Lucite platform. The New Yorker characterized it as "fresh and spicy," while Mademoiselle highlighted both the perfume and its wearable sterling charm. Priced at $18.50 per ounce at Lord & Taylor, it occupied the luxury segment of the market and was marketed toward fashionable women seeking something distinctive and modern.
Like its predecessor Discovery, If remained available for several decades before eventually disappearing from the market sometime during the 1970s. Today it is remembered not only for its fresh-spicy oriental character but also for its unusually imaginative presentation, which combined fragrance, jewelry, and modern materials into a package that was unmistakably of its time.
