Showing posts with label Gerly Parfumeur of Hollywood. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gerly Parfumeur of Hollywood. Show all posts

Saturday, February 7, 2015

Gerly Parfumeur of Hollywood

Gerly Parfumeur Ltd. was one of the most fascinating and distinctly Hollywood-centered perfume houses of the late 1920s and 1930s, blending glamour, celebrity culture, and personalized fragrance in a way that anticipated modern celebrity perfumes by decades. Headquartered at 6705 Hollywood Boulevard in Hollywood, California — though occasionally misreported as “Ferly” in trade references — the company operated as a product line of the Howe Company. Gerly emerged during the golden age of Hollywood, when film stars were becoming powerful symbols of beauty, sophistication, and aspiration, and perfume companies increasingly capitalized on the public’s desire to emulate their favorite actresses. The earliest known newspaper mention of Gerly dates to 1928, and the brand appears to have continued in some form until at least 1955, though its greatest prominence belonged to the early Depression era.

Initially, Gerly perfumes were distributed primarily along the West Coast through the Marvel Products Company, located at Studio MA12, 1023 North Sycamore Avenue in Hollywood. By 1935, however, the company had expanded nationally, with distribution east of the Rocky Mountains handled by the Merz-Mihm Company of New York City. Earlier records from 1932 list the company at the Central Building in downtown Los Angeles, demonstrating how rapidly the business evolved during its formative years. Gerly cultivated an image of exclusivity and continental sophistication despite its unmistakably Hollywood identity. Advertisements described the perfumes as imported directly from Paris and promoted them as highly concentrated “odeurs,” a term intended to evoke French luxury and refinement.



The fragrances of Gerly:

  • 1928 Fleurs de Montmartre
  • 1929 Mon Page by Anita Page
  • 1929 B'Love by Bessie Love
  • 1929 Rêve d’Amour by Joan Crawford
  • 1930 Jardin de Leila by Leila Hyams
  • 1930 Raquela Mia by Raquel Torres
  • 1930 Mon Adorée by Renée Adorée
  • 1930 Amour de Airette
  • 1930 Amour des Fleurs
  • 1930 Astral
  • 1930 Audrey (Audrey Munson?)
  • 1930 Bouquet de France
  • 1930 Carolyn (Carolyn Lee?)
  • 1930 Celui Que J'aime
  • 1930 Chypre de Gerly
  • 1930 Claudette by Claudette Colbert
  • 1930 Coquette by Gail Patrick
  • 1930 Dernier Cri
  • 1930 Enaya
  • 1930 Mary Astor perfume
  • 1930 Fascination
  • 1930 Fleurs Printanierez
  • 1930 Gardenia de Gerly
  • 1930 Idole du Jour
  • 1930 Jasmin de Gerly
  • 1930 Joy de Coeur
  • 1930 Kathryn (for Kathryn Crawford?)
  • 1930 La Primavera (springtime) (also spelled La Premavera in ads)
  • 1930 Le Songe de Mema
  • 1930 L'Espirit du La Danse
  • 1930 L’Heure Exquise (exquisite hour) (also spelled L'Heure Exquisite in ads)
  • 1930 Lilian (for Lilian Gish)
  • 1930 Liska (for Liska March)
  • 1930 Little Orchid
  • 1930 Marjorie (this may have been for Marjorie White)
  • 1930 Mardi Gras
  • 1930 Madame Mimi (Mimi Allmine?)
  • 1930 Muguet de Gerly
  • 1930 Musc d'Arabie
  • 1930 Pois de Senteur /Sweet Pea
  • 1930 Rendezvous
  • 1930 Scent from Hollywood
  • 1930 Scheherazade
  • 1930 Sonata
  • 1930 Songs of the Desert
  • 1930 Sous Bois (of the woods)
  • 1932 Deesse (goddess)
  • 1932 Toujours L'Amour
  • 1932 Idole (idol)
  • 1933 Nuit d'Ete (summer night) (also spelled Nuite d’Été in ads)
  • 1933 Petale Noir
  • 1933 Astral
  • 1933 Sweet Magnolia
  • 1933 Sweet Pea
  • 1933 Violet
  • 1933 Tendresse
  • 1938 Carnation
  • 1938 Lilac
  • 1954 Chere Amie
  • Movie Star


What truly distinguished Gerly from other perfume houses was its extraordinary concept of “personality perfumes.” Long before celebrity fragrances became a mass-market phenomenon, Gerly created individually blended perfumes associated with some of the most famous actresses of the era. These scents were not merely endorsements; they were marketed as olfactory expressions of each star’s unique allure, temperament, beauty, and coloring. The idea perfectly aligned with contemporary beauty culture, which insisted that women should choose cosmetics and perfumes according to their complexion, hair color, and personality type. Perfume, according to Gerly’s philosophy, was not simply a fragrance — it was an extension of identity.


The company created fragrances associated with stars such as Joan Crawford, Jean Harlow, Myrna Loy, Claudette Colbert, Anita Page, Bessie Love, Leila Hyams, Sylvia Sidney, Helen Twelvetrees, Raquel Torres, Gail Patrick, and many others. Each perfume name was carefully chosen to reinforce the star’s public image. Anita Page’s Mon Page was described as fruity, youthful, and playful. Bessie Love’s B’Love carried a woodsier springtime floral character, while Joan Crawford’s Rêve d’Amour (“Dream of Love”) embodied romantic glamour. Jean Harlow, the platinum blonde screen goddess, wore Déesse (“Goddess”), perfectly suited to her shimmering public persona. Claudette Colbert’s fragrance bore simply her first name, emphasizing sleek sophistication, while Gail Patrick’s scent Coquette suggested flirtation and charm.

Gerly’s approach to fragrance composition was heavily influenced by period beauty theories regarding hair color and complexion. In the 1920s and 1930s, many perfumers and beauty advisors believed that blondes, brunettes, redheads, and women with black hair each required different olfactory styles to harmonize with their appearance. Gerly embraced this idea wholeheartedly. Blonde actresses such as Jean Harlow, Anita Page, Thelma Todd, and Leila Hyams were likely associated with lighter floral aldehydic perfumes featuring citrus, peach, orange blossom, honeysuckle, lilac, lily of the valley, heliotrope, and soft woods. These fragrances mirrored the airy, luminous beauty associated with platinum and golden-haired stars.

Meanwhile, actresses with auburn tones, such as Myrna Loy and Mary Astor, were thought to suit richer and more nuanced perfumes built around patchouli, oakmoss, ambergris, carnation, jasmine, spice oils, sandalwood, heliotrope, violet, and incense. Brunettes like Joan Crawford and Claudette Colbert were associated with warmer oriental compositions featuring musk, civet, vanilla, ylang-ylang, ambergris, spices, and florals softened by citrus and powdery undertones. Gerly essentially transformed contemporary Hollywood beauty archetypes into olfactory identities, allowing ordinary women to purchase the illusion of cinematic glamour in bottled form.

The company’s marketing strategies were extraordinarily inventive and immersive. Gerly perfumes were promoted through theatrical tie-ins that blurred the boundary between cinema and fragrance. Perfume sachets were distributed free to women attending matinee screenings at major venues such as the Fox Theatre and Paramount Theatre. In some cases, theaters were even perfumed through their ventilation systems during screenings associated with particular actresses, creating a multisensory promotional experience decades ahead of modern experiential marketing techniques. Certain showings included lavish giveaways of full-sized perfume bottles valued between $35 and $50 — substantial luxury items during the Depression. One especially memorable promotion in 1929 awarded a $100 bottle of Joan Crawford’s Rêve d’Amour to the woman who discovered Crawford’s signature hidden inside a sachet bag.

Trade publications and department store promotions reinforced the image of Gerly as luxurious yet romantic. A 1933 Deseret News advertisement described the line as “the most exclusive line of French perfumes,” sold both in original bottles and by the dram, a practice that lent the fragrances an old-world apothecary elegance. Packaging was equally important. A 1936 issue of Drug and Cosmetic Industry praised Armstrong’s decorative Artmold caps used on Gerly bottles, noting how they combined ornamental beauty with airtight protection for the perfume contents. Such details reflected the Art Deco era’s fascination with packaging as part of the total luxury experience.

Today, Gerly perfumes survive as rare and evocative relics of Hollywood’s golden age. Their bottles, labels, and advertising capture a uniquely American fusion of celebrity worship, glamour, and fragrance fantasy. Long before modern designer and celebrity scent empires existed, Gerly Parfumeur transformed movie stars into living perfume archetypes, allowing women across America to dream of possessing not merely a fragrance, but a fragment of Hollywood enchantment itself.



 




  • Anita Page's perfume was named Mon Page, it had a fruity odor.
  • Bessie Love had a cute perfume named B'Love, it had a woodsy springtime floral scent.
  • Claudette Colbert, the beautiful actress from Cleopatra had a perfume simply named Claudette.
  • Gail Patrick's scent was Coquette.
  • Joan Crawford had a romantic sounding perfume called Reve d'Amour, meaning the dream of love.
  • Jean Harlow's perfume was Deesse, meaning Goddess.
  • Leila Hyams' perfume named Jardin de Leila, it was sometimes shortened to just Leila.
  • Lilian Gish had Lilian.
  • Liska March had Liska.
  • Renée Adorée had Mon Adoree.
  • Raquel Torres had her fragrance as Raquel Mia.
  • Gerly held a nationwide contest for the naming of Mary Astor's perfume in 1932, the winner was awarded $1000. I am unsure what the winning name was.
  • Mary Astor, Jean Harlow, Thelma Todd, Sylvia Sidney, Helen Twelvetrees, and Myrna Loy also had perfumes by Gerly but I am unsure which those were.









 

 




 




















Bottles:


One of the most luxurious aspects of Gerly Parfumeur Ltd. was its remarkable attention to presentation, particularly its use of brilliant cut crystal perfume bottles imported from Czechoslovakia. During the late 1920s and 1930s, Czechoslovakia was internationally renowned for producing exceptionally fine decorative glass and crystal, rivaling French and Austrian luxury glassmakers in both craftsmanship and artistic innovation. Gerly’s decision to house many of its perfumes in these gleaming crystal flacons elevated the fragrances far beyond ordinary cosmetic products; they became glamorous vanity objects meant to evoke the elegance and fantasy of Hollywood itself.

The Czech-made flacons reflected the strong Art Deco influences dominating decorative arts during the period. Their sharply cut facets, geometric silhouettes, polished stoppers, and jewel-like sparkle perfectly complemented Gerly’s cinematic image. Under soft vanity lighting, the bottles would glitter like gemstones, reinforcing the luxurious aura surrounding the company’s celebrity fragrances. Many of these flacons were likely produced in styles inspired by the famous Bohemian crystal traditions, combining technical brilliance with the sleek modernity fashionable in the interwar years. The heavy crystal, precise cutting, and reflective surfaces gave even relatively small perfume bottles a sense of permanence and opulence.

Gerly clearly understood that the bottle itself was an essential part of the perfume experience. In the golden age of Hollywood glamour, perfume bottles functioned as decorative accessories displayed proudly on mirrored dressing tables beside powder jars, atomizers, cosmetics, and jewelry boxes. A woman purchasing a Gerly fragrance was not merely buying scent — she was purchasing a fragment of movie-star luxury. The luminous Czech crystal bottles visually reinforced the connection between perfume and celebrity fantasy, especially when paired with fragrances associated with famous actresses such as Joan Crawford, Jean Harlow, or Claudette Colbert.

The pricing structure of Gerly perfumes further reveals the company’s dual strategy of accessibility and aspiration. Smaller purse-sized bottles could be purchased for as little as one dollar, allowing ordinary women to enjoy a touch of Hollywood sophistication during the Depression era. These compact bottles were ideal for evening bags or everyday glamour and made the dream of celebrity fragrance attainable even during difficult economic times. At the opposite end of the scale, Gerly also offered extravagant luxury presentations priced between $17.50 and an astonishing $100 — enormous sums for the 1930s. Such costly presentations were likely housed in the finest crystal flacons and sold as exclusive prestige items aimed at wealthy clientele, devoted film fans, or gift purchasers seeking extraordinary luxury.

A $100 perfume bottle during the early 1930s represented an almost unimaginable extravagance, especially during the depths of the Great Depression. These ultra-premium presentations were less about practicality than spectacle and status. Gerly cleverly cultivated the idea that its perfumes occupied the same glamorous world as Hollywood premieres, silk gowns, mirrored penthouses, and motion-picture royalty. The lavish crystal bottles transformed the fragrances into collectible treasures, blurring the boundary between decorative art object and cosmetic product.

Today, surviving Gerly bottles are highly prized among collectors precisely because of this extraordinary presentation quality. The Czech crystal flacons often survive as beautiful examples of Art Deco design in their own right, even when the original perfume has long evaporated. Their brilliance, craftsmanship, and connection to Hollywood’s golden age give them a romantic allure that perfectly captures Gerly’s original vision: perfume not simply as fragrance, but as glamour crystallized in glass.

 






 






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