Showing posts with label A La Cocarde de France by Delia (1927). Show all posts
Showing posts with label A La Cocarde de France by Delia (1927). Show all posts

Monday, August 4, 2014

A La Cocarde de France by Delia (1927)

À La Cocarde de France Eau de Cologne by M. Delia is a fragrance steeped in symbolism, history, and nostalgic romance. Originally launched in France in 1927 and introduced to the American market in 1937, the perfume was promoted not simply as a pleasant scent, but as a resurrected treasure from the past—a refined floral eau de cologne inspired by none other than Empress Joséphine Bonaparte herself.

The name "À La Cocarde de France" is French, and is pronounced ah lah koh-KARD duh frahnss. Translated, it means “To the Cockade of France” or “In Honor of the Cockade of France.” The cocarde refers to the tricolor cockade—a rosette of ribbons in blue, white, and red—worn during the French Revolution as a patriotic emblem. By invoking this term, the perfume’s name evokes a blend of national pride, revolution, elegance, and femininity. But Delia’s interpretation steers this iconography toward the romantic and aristocratic, aligning the imagery with Empress Joséphine’s refined, yet emotionally charged world—her rose gardens, her love for exotic blooms, her subtle command of sensuality.

The time period in which this perfume was launched—late 1920s France and 1930s America—was one of reflection and modernity. In France, the aftermath of the First World War ushered in a nostalgic longing for pre-war elegance, particularly among women who found strength in femininity refined by history. By the time the fragrance appeared in the United States, the country was emerging from the Great Depression. The idea of owning a perfume "rediscovered" from the private formula of a famed empress would have appealed deeply to women seeking beauty, escape, and a sense of sophistication tied to a grand European past.



"A La Cocarde de France" was described as a light but spicy floral, with a dominant rose note, and a romantic, gently provocative character. The rose, likely a Damask or centifolia rose, would have evoked the rose gardens of Malmaison, Joséphine's beloved estate, where she cultivated thousands of floral specimens. But here, the rose is softened and made more enigmatic with spice and subtle complexity—perhaps a whisper of clove or carnation, giving a dry warmth to the airy floral. This isn't the heavy rose of Victorian perfumes, nor the bold aldehydic bouquets of the 1920s—this is a rose remembered, softened by time and nostalgia.



Advertisements emphasized its uniqueness: a “romantic and spicy... indefinable floral fragrance,” with a story guarded for over a century. While many perfumes of the 1930s leaned into bold aldehydic structures or glamorous orientals, À La Cocarde de France distinguished itself with its gentle mystique. It was neither aggressive nor modernist. Instead, it was tender, historic, and intimate—a soft-spoken counterpoint to the dramatic fragrances of the era.

The presentation, too, was important to its allure. The cologne was bottled in a flat crystal flacon, either square or oval, with a suggestion of a hand painted floral motif on the label and a heavy glass stopper, exuding both simplicity and charm. It was meant to look at home on a lady’s vanity—a symbol of grace rather than opulence. A 1938 advertisement remarked: “It is romantic and spicy…reminiscent of the gardens of Malmaison.” Such phrasing made it clear that this cologne was not merely a cosmetic accessory but a scented bridge to another world—aristocratic, floral, feminine, and quietly patriotic.

In sum, À La Cocarde de France wasn’t just a perfume—it was a fragrant homage to French identity, an empress’s memory, and a lost style of womanhood defined by subtlety, heritage, and poetic restraint. Its floral-spice composition placed it just slightly outside of contemporary trends, making it a delightfully different choice for the woman who preferred her elegance with a touch of history.



Bottles:






American Druggist, Volume 97, 1938:
"Maurice Levy makes known the rediscovery of the Empress Josephine's favorite, exclusive eau de cologne, by M. Delia of Paris. Amusingly named "A la Cocarde de France," the cologne has a floral scent and is bottled in a flat crystal square with a heavy knob stopper. Use post card insert."



Perfumery and Essential Oil Record, 1938:
"A new eau de cologne has been put on the market by " Delia," which is claimed to be the perfume used by Napoleon's first wife, the Empress Josephine. Certainly it has a delicate, lingering scent, and its package, an oval flask bearing a decorative label, is in itself a sufficient attraction without any reputation from by-gone years."

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