Showing posts with label Colors for Women by Benetton (1986). Show all posts
Showing posts with label Colors for Women by Benetton (1986). Show all posts

Wednesday, March 11, 2020

Colors for Women by Benetton (1986)

Launched in 1986, Colors for Women was the debut women's fragrance from the Italian fashion company Benetton Group. More than simply introducing a perfume, Benetton sought to bottle the philosophy that had made the company internationally famous. During the 1980s, Benetton had become synonymous with vibrant knitwear in every imaginable shade, bold advertising campaigns, youthful optimism, and a celebration of cultural diversity. While many fashion houses built their identities around exclusivity or glamour, Benetton championed inclusiveness, individuality, and the idea that people from every corner of the world could be united through color, creativity, and fashion. Their first fragrance naturally reflected this vision, carrying the subtitle "The Perfume of the World." Rather than drawing inspiration from a single country or tradition, the company deliberately searched across continents for exceptional raw materials, creating a perfume that symbolized international harmony through scent.

Founded in 1965 by siblings Luciano, Giuliana, Gilberto, and Carlo Benetton in Treviso, Italy, Benetton quickly rose from a family knitwear business into one of the world's most recognizable fashion brands. The company's colorful sweaters became a defining symbol of casual European style, while its groundbreaking advertising campaigns challenged conventional ideas about race, nationality, religion, and social issues. By the mid-1980s, Benetton stores could be found across Europe, North America, Asia, and South America, making the company one of Italy's greatest fashion success stories. Its slogan, "United Colors of Benetton," had become more than a marketing phrase—it represented a global outlook that celebrated diversity and the beauty found in different cultures living together.

The name Colors for Women perfectly embodied this philosophy. Rather than naming the perfume after a flower, gemstone, or romantic fantasy, Benetton chose the universal concept of color itself. The word "Colors" is English and is pronounced simply "KULL-ers." Although sold internationally, English had become the language of global fashion and youth culture during the 1980s, making the title immediately understandable in many countries. The addition of "for Women" clarified its audience while preserving the simplicity of the concept. Unlike many perfumes whose names suggested mystery, seduction, or luxury, Colors for Women spoke instead of optimism, individuality, creativity, and international friendship. It suggested that every woman possessed her own unique personality, much like every color possesses its own distinctive beauty.

Emotionally, the phrase Colors for Women evokes a vivid palette of experiences rather than a single image. One imagines bustling city streets filled with fashionable young people, open-air cafés overlooking Mediterranean plazas, colorful silk scarves fluttering in warm breezes, fresh flowers at international markets, and women confidently expressing themselves through clothing, art, travel, and culture. It is joyful without being frivolous, sophisticated without appearing exclusive. The name suggests curiosity, openness to new experiences, and a celebration of differences. Rather than emphasizing sensual mystery alone, it promises energy, warmth, optimism, and cosmopolitan elegance.



The fragrance arrived during one of fashion's most colorful decades. By 1986, the exuberance of the 1980s was in full bloom. Women's fashion embraced bold shoulder pads, vibrant jewel tones, oversized jackets, colorful knitwear, graphic prints, metallic accessories, sculptural jewelry, and expressive makeup. Designers encouraged women to make confident statements through their wardrobes, while increasing numbers of women entered executive and professional careers, embracing what became known as power dressing. At the same time, global travel became more accessible, international influences became increasingly fashionable, and consumers developed growing interest in exotic cultures, ingredients, and artistic traditions from around the world. Benetton stood at the forefront of this international spirit, making Colors feel especially relevant to its era.

Perfumery reflected many of these same cultural movements. The mid-1980s are often remembered as the age of the power fragrance—rich, long-lasting perfumes with commanding presence. Bold florals, opulent orientals, dramatic chypres, and intensely layered compositions dominated department store counters. Consumers wanted fragrances with exceptional longevity and projection, scents capable of making as strong a statement as brightly colored designer clothing. Yet alongside these powerful perfumes emerged a growing fascination with increasingly international ingredients and unusual raw materials sourced from every continent. Consumers became intrigued not only by beautiful flowers but also by rare woods, spices, resins, tropical fruits, and botanicals from distant countries.

This fascination with global inspiration made Colors for Women particularly distinctive. While its ambery oriental structure fit comfortably within the popular fragrance trends of the mid-1980s, its concept stood apart. Rather than emphasizing Parisian elegance, Hollywood glamour, or romantic fantasy, Benetton promoted the perfume as a true international composition. Press materials highlighted Moroccan orange blossoms, French hyacinth, Egyptian marigold, woody accords, and Madagascar vanilla, underscoring the company's deliberate search for exceptional ingredients from around the globe. This worldwide sourcing was not merely a list of exotic materials—it reinforced Benetton's identity as a fashion house that celebrated cultural diversity and international unity.

Women encountering Colors for Women in 1986 would likely have recognized it as more than simply another designer fragrance. For many, Benetton represented youthful optimism, creativity, and modern values. Wearing Colors suggested an adventurous personality—someone interested in travel, fashion, art, and experiencing different cultures. It appealed to women who embraced individuality rather than rigid conventions, yet still appreciated sophistication and quality. The perfume complemented the confident, worldly image that many women aspired to during the decade, offering a fragrance that reflected both personal style and an increasingly interconnected world.

Before even smelling the fragrance, the name Colors for Women naturally suggests an olfactory rainbow rather than a single dominant note. One imagines bright citrus hues blending into lush florals, warm golden spices melting into creamy woods, and soft amber tones glowing beneath rich vanilla. The name implies contrast and harmony existing together—freshness balanced by warmth, lightness enriched by depth, familiar flowers complemented by exotic treasures gathered from distant lands. It promises a perfume with many facets, each revealing a different emotional "color" as it unfolds upon the skin.

Within the competitive fragrance market of the mid-1980s, Colors for Women therefore occupied an intriguing position. Its ambery oriental construction aligned with contemporary tastes for luxurious, long-lasting fragrances, ensuring it felt fashionable and familiar to consumers of the era. Yet its international philosophy, multicultural identity, and emphasis on globally sourced ingredients gave it a distinctive personality that few competing fragrances could claim. Bernard Elléna's composition successfully balanced the decade's love of rich orientals with Benetton's uniquely optimistic worldview, creating a fragrance that celebrated not simply beauty, but the colorful diversity of the world itself.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Colors is classified as an ambery oriental fragrance for women. It begins with a fruity green top, followed by a floral heart, layered over a woody, powdery base. Press materials read: "Semi-Oriental: top note is from Moroccan orange blossoms, French hyacinth, and Egyptian marigold. Drydown has woody notes and Madagascar sweet vanilla."

  • Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, Moroccan orange blossom, green note, violet, coriander, melon, Hawaiian pineapple, Caribbean passion fruit, Egyptian marigold
  • Middle notes: French jasmine, Comoros Island tuberose, Georgia peach, French hyacinth, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, Bulgarian rose  
  • Base notes: Virginian cedar, sandalwood, ambergris, musk, Ethiopian civet, Chinese patchouli, Yugoslavian oakmoss, opoponax, Madagascar vanilla. 


Scent Profile:


Colors unfolds like a journey around the world, each stage revealing botanical treasures gathered from distant landscapes and blended into a harmonious whole. The opening immediately sparkles with the brilliant freshness of bergamot, whose finest essential oil traditionally comes from the sun-drenched coastline of Calabria, Italy. No other bergamot-growing region has achieved quite the same reputation. The mineral-rich soils, Mediterranean breezes, and warm climate produce fruit whose peel yields an exceptionally complex oil, brighter and sweeter than ordinary citrus, carrying sparkling notes of lemon, orange blossom, soft flowers, and gentle spice. It feels as though the first rays of morning sunlight have been captured inside the bottle, providing a luminous freshness that immediately awakens the senses.

Flowing beside the bergamot is juicy mandarin, whose peel releases a sweeter, softer citrus aroma than orange or lemon. Italian mandarins are particularly prized for their delicate floral undertones and almost honeyed sweetness. Unlike the sharper brightness of bergamot, mandarin wraps the opening in a cheerful warmth that feels optimistic and inviting. Together, these two citrus fruits create a vivid impression of colorful Mediterranean orchards bursting with ripe fruit beneath clear blue skies.

One of the fragrance's most distinctive ingredients soon emerges—Moroccan orange blossom. Morocco has long been considered one of the world's finest producers of orange blossom absolute because the country's warm days and cool desert nights encourage exceptionally fragrant blossoms rich in aromatic compounds. Unlike orange blossom oils from Spain or Tunisia, Moroccan orange blossom often possesses an especially lush, creamy sweetness balanced by delicate green facets and subtle honeyed warmth. Its aroma is intoxicating: simultaneously fresh, floral, citrusy, and softly indolic, conjuring white blossoms gently stirred by warm evening breezes. It is easy to understand why Benetton chose to emphasize this ingredient in its advertising, as it immediately reinforces the fragrance's international identity.

Surrounding the blossoms are vivid green notes, but unlike leaves or grass themselves, these are largely artistic recreations. Fresh-cut grass, crushed stems, and young foliage produce little or no extractable perfume oil, so perfumers recreate their aroma using sophisticated molecules such as cis-3-Hexenol and cis-3-Hexenyl acetate. Cis-3-Hexenol possesses the unmistakable smell of freshly mown grass and snapped green leaves, while cis-3-Hexenyl acetate introduces the juicy freshness of green apples and tender shoots. These aroma chemicals do not imitate nature poorly—they actually allow perfumers to recreate aspects of living plants that nature itself cannot provide in concentrated form. Here they lend the composition a vibrant freshness that makes every floral note appear brighter and more lifelike.

A delicate veil of violet follows, although true violet blossoms yield virtually no essential oil suitable for perfumery. Instead, perfumers construct violet using remarkable molecules called ionones, first discovered in the late nineteenth century. Alpha- and beta-ionone possess a powdery floral aroma remarkably close to fresh violet petals, while simultaneously introducing hints of soft woods, raspberry, and delicate cosmetics. These synthetic materials not only recreate violet itself but also enhance nearby flowers, adding elegance and refinement impossible to achieve through natural extraction alone.

Adding further sparkle is coriander seed, traditionally harvested in Morocco, Russia, and Eastern Europe. Unlike fresh cilantro leaves, coriander seed offers a surprisingly sophisticated fragrance with citrus brightness, peppery warmth, and smooth woody undertones. It gently spices the citrus opening without becoming overtly aromatic, creating an effortless transition toward the richer floral heart.

Unexpectedly tropical fruits soon begin to appear. Melon, despite its realistic aroma, is another entirely synthetic creation because the fruit contains no essential oil suitable for extraction. Modern aroma chemicals such as Melonal capture the cool, watery sweetness of ripe honeydew and cantaloupe with astonishing realism. Melonal contributes crisp transparency and juicy freshness, giving the fragrance an airy, refreshing quality. Beside it unfolds luscious Hawaiian pineapple, whose bright tropical sweetness is likewise recreated almost entirely through synthetic fruit esters and lactones. The aroma suggests freshly sliced golden pineapple, balancing tart acidity with nectar-like sweetness while adding cheerful vibrancy. Even more exotic is Caribbean passion fruit, another fantasy accord built from carefully blended fruity aroma chemicals. It evokes ripe tropical pulp bursting with tangy citrus, guava, mango, and floral nuances, lending Colors an unmistakably cosmopolitan character that perfectly supports its "Perfume of the World" concept.

Completing the opening is warm Egyptian marigold, whose essential oil comes from the golden blossoms of Tagetes minuta and related species cultivated along the fertile Nile Valley. Egyptian marigold differs from ornamental garden marigolds, producing a surprisingly rich perfume that combines green herbs, crushed leaves, ripe fruit, leather, and subtle spice. Its distinctive aroma lends unusual depth to the bright fruits, preventing the composition from becoming overly sweet while introducing an intriguing earthy complexity.

As the perfume blossoms fully, the floral heart reveals itself with remarkable richness. French jasmine, particularly from Grasse, remains one of perfumery's greatest treasures. The unique climate of southern France produces jasmine blossoms with extraordinary delicacy—soft, creamy, slightly fruity, and infused with hints of tea, apricot, and honey. Harvested before sunrise while the flowers are still tightly fragrant, Grasse jasmine possesses a refinement unmatched by many other growing regions. Its velvety sweetness fills the heart with luminous femininity.

Alongside jasmine blooms magnificent Comoros Island tuberose, cultivated in the volcanic soils of the Indian Ocean archipelago. The humid tropical climate allows the flowers to develop an especially creamy, narcotic fragrance richer than many Mexican or Indian varieties. Tuberose unfolds like warm satin, combining white petals with coconut cream, gardenia, butter, spice, and subtle green freshness. Its intoxicating richness provides the heart of Colors with unmistakable sensuality.

Softly woven through these white flowers is succulent Georgia peach, another note recreated through modern perfumery. Peaches themselves yield no essential oil, so perfumers rely upon molecules such as gamma-Undecalactone, commonly called peach aldehyde. This remarkable aroma chemical smells exactly like the fuzzy skin and juicy flesh of a perfectly ripe peach, contributing velvety sweetness that makes the surrounding flowers appear softer and more radiant. Rather than smelling artificial, it lends the floral bouquet a sun-ripened warmth impossible to achieve naturally.

The fragrance continues with French hyacinth, another flower that cannot be distilled into usable perfume oil. Its fragrance is therefore recreated using carefully balanced floral aldehydes, phenylacetaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, and green floral molecules. The resulting accord beautifully captures hyacinth's cool spring freshness—a blend of crisp greenery, damp earth, soft lilacs, and delicate white blossoms. The synthetic accord faithfully recreates one of nature's most elusive fragrances while adding remarkable transparency to the floral heart.

Golden ylang-ylang, distilled from flowers grown primarily in the Comoros Islands and Madagascar, contributes voluptuous tropical richness. The finest "extra" grade ylang-ylang oil is obtained from the earliest hours of distillation and possesses extraordinary sweetness, blending banana, jasmine, custard, spice, and creamy petals into one luxurious aroma. Supporting this exotic richness is lily of the valley, whose delicate bells likewise produce no extractable perfume oil. Since the early twentieth century, perfumers have recreated its crystalline freshness using molecules such as hydroxycitronellal and Lilial (historically), producing an impression of sparkling spring flowers, fresh dew, and cool white petals.

Completing the floral bouquet is magnificent Bulgarian rose, regarded for centuries as the world's finest rose oil. Grown in Bulgaria's legendary Valley of Roses, where cool mountain mornings preserve delicate aromatic molecules, Bulgarian roses develop exceptional richness combining velvety petals, honey, citrus, spice, and soft fruit. No other rose-growing region consistently produces oil of such extraordinary depth and elegance, making it one of perfumery's most treasured ingredients.

As Colors settles onto the skin, the fragrance acquires remarkable warmth and sophistication. Virginian cedarwood, distilled from the heartwood of the eastern red cedar, contributes the comforting aroma of freshly sharpened pencils, dry timber, and polished wood cabinetry. Its crisp dryness provides architectural structure beneath the softer florals. Beside it rests creamy sandalwood, historically sourced from Mysore, India, whose heartwood developed exceptionally high concentrations of naturally occurring santalols, producing a buttery, velvety smoothness unmatched by sandalwoods grown elsewhere. Even in the 1980s, genuine Mysore sandalwood had become increasingly precious, often supplemented by beautifully crafted sandalwood aroma molecules that enhanced its creamy longevity.

The composition then develops its ambery richness through ambergris, historically one of perfumery's rarest materials. Natural ambergris forms within sperm whales after years of floating in the ocean, where sunlight, saltwater, and oxidation transform it into a silvery-gray substance with an astonishing fragrance unlike anything else—warm skin, salty sea air, soft tobacco, sweet hay, mineral warmth, and subtle marine sweetness. Because genuine ambergris has always been extraordinarily scarce and is now largely replaced in modern perfumery, Colors almost certainly relied heavily upon synthetic materials such as Ambroxan, whose glowing ambergris character recreates the warmth, diffusion, and remarkable persistence of the natural material while remaining sustainable and consistent.

Modern musk likewise illustrates the marriage of science and artistry. By the 1980s, natural animal musk had been replaced by elegant synthetic musks that reproduce the clean warmth of human skin, soft laundry, and gentle sensuality without animal cruelty. These molecules provide exceptional softness and help all of the preceding ingredients linger gracefully for hours.

An intriguing historical note is the inclusion of Ethiopian civet. Traditionally obtained from the civet cat, natural civet possessed an intensely animalic aroma when fresh but transformed in tiny quantities into a remarkably warm, sensual note reminiscent of honey, leather, skin, and flowers. Ethiopia was historically regarded as the world's finest source of civet, with centuries-old harvesting traditions. By the mid-1980s, however, increasing ethical concerns and improved synthetic substitutes meant that many fragrances used laboratory recreations such as civetone, which captured the warm sensuality of civet while eliminating the need for animal-derived materials. These synthetics enhanced floral richness rather than overwhelming it with animalic intensity.

Earthy Chinese patchouli adds depth and mystery. Patchouli cultivated in China often develops a slightly cleaner, drier profile than Indonesian varieties, emphasizing woody earth, cocoa, and subtle camphor over heavier sweetness. It anchors the fragrance while complementing the surrounding woods. Beneath it lies Yugoslavian oakmoss, harvested from ancient oak forests that once stretched across the Balkans. This remarkable lichen contributes cool forest earth, damp bark, shaded stone, and gentle leather. Modern safety standards have required extensive reformulation of natural oakmoss, so carefully crafted synthetic moss accords often reinforce the natural extract while preserving its timeless elegance.

Resinous warmth emerges through opoponax, sometimes called sweet myrrh, harvested primarily from northeastern Africa. Richer and sweeter than ordinary myrrh, opoponax smells of warm balsamic resin, golden honey, soft incense, and spicy amber, adding glowing richness to the base. Finally comes luxurious Madagascar vanilla, whose orchids flourish in the island's humid tropical climate. Madagascar remains the world's premier producer because its vanilla beans develop exceptionally high concentrations of vanillin, creating a fragrance that is creamy, rich, buttery, and softly spicy. Modern perfumery enhances natural vanilla with additional synthetic vanillin and ethyl vanillin, intensifying its sweetness, improving longevity, and allowing its comforting warmth to radiate long after the natural extract begins to fade.

The finished composition is a remarkable celebration of international perfumery. Natural treasures from Morocco, France, Egypt, the Comoros Islands, Bulgaria, Madagascar, China, Ethiopia, the Caribbean, Hawaii, and beyond are woven together with ingenious aroma chemicals that recreate impossible flowers, juicy fruits, fresh greenery, and luxurious animalic notes. Rather than competing with nature, these synthetic materials elevate and illuminate the natural ingredients, allowing Colors to fulfill Benetton's vision of creating not merely a perfume, but a fragrant portrait of the world itself.


Bottles:








Fate of the Fragrance:


The original Colors for Women was eventually discontinued, although the exact date of its withdrawal from the market has not been documented. In 1993, Benetton revived the fragrance under the name Colors de Benetton for Women, introducing it to a new generation with updated packaging that reflected the changing design sensibilities of the early 1990s. While the fragrance itself maintained its international spirit, the presentation adopted a cleaner, more contemporary aesthetic that mirrored the decade's growing preference for minimalist styling over the bold, exuberant graphics of the 1980s.

The redesigned packaging was created by renowned San Francisco graphic designer Tamotsu Yagi, whose work emphasized simplicity, balance, and modern visual communication. Instead of relying on elaborate ornamentation or luxurious embellishments, Yagi's design employed a restrained palette of green, yellow, blue, and violet, colors chosen to evoke freshness, harmony, creativity, and diversity. The understated geometric design reflected Benetton's global philosophy while allowing the colors themselves to become the primary visual statement. It was an elegant evolution of the original concept, conveying sophistication through clean lines and thoughtful use of color rather than excess decoration. The redesign also aligned perfectly with the early 1990s movement toward minimalist fashion and graphic design, while continuing to express Benetton's enduring celebration of cultural diversity and the vibrant spectrum of the world's people and places.



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