Showing posts with label Parfumerie Brecher. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Parfumerie Brecher. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 21, 2019

Parfumerie Brecher

Founded in Pontoise in 1900 by Paul Brécher, Parfumerie Brécher emerged during a period of remarkable growth within the French perfume industry. From its earliest years, the house distinguished itself through a commitment to quality and originality rather than sheer scale. Its first major success came with the fragrance Mon Bouquet, a perfume that achieved considerable acclaim and established the young company’s reputation. Contemporary writers praised the fragrance for its delicate and evocative character, comparing it to the elusive scents carried through the evening air of exotic Oriental landscapes and the fragrant shores of the French Riviera. This early triumph provided the foundation upon which the house would build its future success.

Encouraged by the popularity of Mon Bouquet, Paul Brécher continued to expand his collection with the introduction of Bouquet à Ma Mie, which quickly gained favor among consumers in both France and foreign markets. These early successes demonstrated the seriousness of the firm's ambitions and helped establish the Brécher name among the growing number of French perfume houses. During the following years, additional fragrances appeared, including Eternel Parfum, Mes Fleurettes, Sous la Charmille, Violette Pure, and Le Baiser. These perfumes combined attractive names, elegant presentations, and carefully composed fragrances, reinforcing the company's reputation for refined perfumery.

Between 1900 and 1913, the company expanded steadily and without interruption. During this period, Jacques Ernest Mazurier, who collaborated closely with Paul Brécher, played an increasingly important role in the firm's development. Recognizing the need for larger and more modern production facilities, Mazurier established laboratories and workshops at Épinay-sur-Seine on an extensive property covering approximately 10,000 square meters. These facilities provided the company with the capacity needed to meet growing demand while maintaining strict standards of quality.


The years surrounding the First World War marked a significant transition in the history of the house. Following the war, Jacques Ernest Mazurier acquired the company and assumed leadership. Under his direction, the business entered a new phase of development. Operations were transferred to 10 Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle, Paris, placing the firm in the commercial heart of the French capital and positioning it closer to the fashion, luxury, and perfume trades that made Paris the center of the world's fragrance industry. Mazurier also began marketing the company's products under the name "Aux Perfumeries Réunies," suggesting a strategy of consolidation and expansion designed to strengthen the firm's competitive position.



During the early 1920s, Mazurier devoted considerable effort to modernizing production and refining the quality of the firm's perfumes. Determined to preserve and enhance the reputation of the house, he invested in new facilities, equipment, and research. Around this time, his son joined the business after returning from service with the Army of the Rhine. Possessing formal chemical training and practical experience gained through internships at major raw-material manufacturers in Grasse, Mazurier's son assumed responsibility for the laboratory. His technical expertise contributed significantly to the development of new fragrances, including Vrai Narcisse, Bonjour Paris, Noces d'Argent, and Amour en Folie, all of which helped sustain the company's growing reputation during the decade.



By 1925, Parfumerie Brécher had become a respected and internationally recognized perfume house. Its Épinay-sur-Seine factory featured modern laboratories, workshops, and production departments housed in recently constructed buildings designed to accommodate an expanding clientele. The property was further enhanced by extensive gardens planted with roses and flowering shrubs, creating an environment reminiscent of the celebrated landscapes of the French Riviera. The manufacture of creams, perfume extracts, powders, and other cosmetic preparations was carried out with meticulous care, using only carefully selected ingredients. The company's products enjoyed a strong following both in France and abroad, where customers increasingly associated the Brécher name with the excellence of French perfumery.


A final major milestone occurred in 1929, when the business was formally reorganized as Les Parfums Brecher (Poulet, Arnaud & Cie) in Paris. Capitalized at 800,000 francs, the new company structure reflected substantial investment and confidence in the brand's future. While maintaining its focus on perfumes and toilet preparations, the firm appears to have broadened its ambitions and strengthened its position within the increasingly competitive fragrance market of the interwar period. Contemporary records also indicate associations with Benoit and Marquis de Elorza, relationships that may have provided additional commercial opportunities, access to raw materials, or distribution networks.


The history of Parfumerie Brécher illustrates the evolution of a modest provincial perfume house into a respected participant in the golden age of French perfumery. Through the efforts of Paul Brécher, Jacques Ernest Mazurier, and the next generation of the Mazurier family, the company successfully combined artistic creativity, technical innovation, and commercial ambition, establishing a reputation that extended well beyond France's borders.

 


The perfumes of Brecher:

  • 1911 Mon Bouquet
  • 1911 Royal Delices
  • 1911 Le Trefle Russe
  • 1911 Muguet
  • 1911 Violette
  • 1924 Sous de Charmille
  • 1925 Œillet
  • 1925 Chypre
  • 1925 Doux Réve
  • 1925 Le Temp des Fleurs
  • 1925 Le Vrai Narcisse
  • 1925 Les Fleurettes/Mes Fleurettes
  • 1925 Tabac Jaune
  • 1927 Bonjour Paris
  • 1927 Fumee Bleue
  • 1927 Soir de Lune
  • 1929 Amour de Folie
  • 1929 Lolita
  • 1929 Soir de Noel
  • 1930 En Promenade
  • 1930 L'An










The bottle for Soir de Noel, is made up of black glass, decorated with abstract motifs of thick enamel in aqua, white and gold. The stopper has the same enamelling. The back side of the flacon is undecorated and features a paper label. The box shape is reminiscent of a Japanese inro case and is fitted with a silk tassel. The design is nearly identical to a bottle used for Shari by Langlois.



Brecher’s perfume Soir de Lune was presented in a cobalt blue glass flacon designed by Julien Viard and manufactured by Depinoix.





One of Parfums Brécher's notable fragrances was Sous la Charmille ("Under the Bower"), presented in an artistic bottle designed by the celebrated French glass designer Julien Viard (1883–1938) and manufactured by Verreries Dépinoix Fils. Standing approximately 7 cm in height, the pressed colorless glass bottle features a squat, bulbous body tapering gracefully to a narrow neck, surmounted by a flattened blossom-form stopper adorned with a patinated poppy. The cylindrical body is richly decorated with molded leaves and chestnuts, enhanced with enamelwork in shades of green and brown to create a naturalistic woodland effect. This elegant presentation perfectly reflected the fragrance's romantic name and exemplified the high level of artistry found in French perfume bottles during the early twentieth century.


Parfumerie Brecher also had a line of solid perfumes made up of Bakelite starting in 1929, Amour de Folie, Jasmin, Narcisse, Chypre, Lilas, Rose, Violette and possibly others.


Wednesday, June 3, 2015

Andre Chenier Perfumes

During the 1930s, Viviny Perfumers Inc. of West Haven, Connecticut marketed a sophisticated range of perfumes and cosmetic products under the trade name André Chénier. The brand took its name from the celebrated French poet André Chénier (1762–1794), whose romantic reputation and tragic fate during the French Revolution lent an air of refinement and Old World elegance to the company's creations. By adopting the name of a distinguished French literary figure, Viviny sought to associate its products with the glamour, artistry, and prestige traditionally connected with French perfumery.

The André Chénier line encompassed far more than perfume alone. Like many successful cosmetic houses of the era, the company offered a complete range of beauty preparations designed to appeal to fashionable women. These included face powders, talcum powders, face creams, bath salts, lipsticks, rouges, and perfumes. Such comprehensive product lines allowed consumers to coordinate their beauty routines around a single brand identity, a marketing approach that became increasingly popular during the interwar period.

Viviny Perfumers also maintained important commercial relationships with major retailers. The company supplied specially commissioned fragrances to the prestigious department store B. Altman & Company, one of New York's leading luxury merchants. In 1931, a collection of floral fragrances known as André Chénier Fleurs was introduced. This series appears to have consisted of single-flower perfumes, or soliflores, designed to showcase the scent of individual blossoms. Given the timing and retail connections, it is possible that these fragrances were created specifically for B. Altman's clientele, although definitive documentation remains elusive.

The André Chénier perfumes were also distributed through other retail channels, including Carroll Cut Rate Perfumer of New York. The availability of the fragrances through both luxury department stores and specialty perfume retailers suggests that Viviny sought to reach a broad audience while maintaining an image of sophistication and quality. This dual marketing strategy was common among American perfume companies attempting to compete with imported French fragrances during the 1930s.

Beyond André Chénier, Viviny Perfumers operated under a variety of additional trade names and cosmetic brands. These included Valencia, Philip Maurice, Jean La Salle, and Betty-Faye, each of which appears to have focused primarily on cosmetics and beauty preparations. The Jean La Salle trademark was particularly interesting, taking its name from Saint Jean-Baptiste de La Salle, the French priest and educational reformer who founded the Brothers of the Christian Schools. The trademark was registered in 1929 and later renewed in 1949 by The Viviny-Associated Company of West Haven, demonstrating the longevity of the brand within the company's portfolio.

Corporate records also reveal connections between Viviny, Betty Faye Company, and Dr. Higgins Laboratories of New Haven, Connecticut, illustrating the complex network of affiliated businesses common in the cosmetics industry. Brand names were often transferred, renewed, or marketed through related companies, allowing manufacturers to target different consumer groups while utilizing shared production facilities and distribution networks.

The André Chénier brand appears to have been closely associated with several other perfume concerns, including Marques de Elorza, Parfumerie Brecher, and Parfums de Paul, and maintained ties to the French fashion house Boué Sœurs. These relationships are particularly significant because many identical perfume names appear across multiple brands and companies. Such overlap suggests licensing agreements, shared formulas, cooperative marketing arrangements, or the acquisition and transfer of fragrance rights between firms. These interconnections were not uncommon during the period and often blur the boundaries between individual perfume houses.

Today, André Chénier remains a fascinating example of an American perfume brand that skillfully employed French cultural references to create an aura of luxury and sophistication. Through its perfumes, cosmetics, department store collaborations, and network of affiliated brands, Viviny Perfumers successfully participated in the vibrant and highly competitive beauty industry of the 1930s, leaving behind a complex legacy that continues to intrigue perfume historians and collectors.



The perfumes of André Chenier:

  • 1925 Myrys
  • 1925 Ondés d’Amour
  • 1928 Jipsee Fleurs
  • 1929 Honeysuckle Blossom
  • 1929 Valencia
  • 1929 Bouquet de Souvenirs
  • 1930 Chenier 16
  • 1930 Marché Nuptiale
  • 1930 Corsage du Temps
  • 1932 Printemps de Paris (skincare line)
  • 1934 Incarnate
  • 1934 Night in Orient


The fragrance offerings of André Chénier reveal a brand that embraced romance, nostalgia, femininity, and exotic fantasy, themes that were immensely popular during the late 1920s and early 1930s. While little information survives concerning the actual compositions of these perfumes, their evocative names provide valuable insight into the image and aspirations that Viviny Perfumers sought to cultivate for the André Chénier brand.

Among the earliest known creations was Myrys (1925), an enigmatic name whose precise inspiration remains uncertain. The unusual title suggests either a fanciful coined word or a reference to myrrh, the precious aromatic resin long associated with luxury perfumes and ancient civilizations. Introduced the same year was Ondés d'Amour, which translates as "Waves of Love" or "Ripples of Love." The poetic title evokes romantic emotions spreading outward like gentle waves, reflecting the sentimental style often favored in perfume marketing during the period.

The late 1920s brought several fragrances inspired by flowers and cherished memories. Jipsee Fleurs (1928), meaning "Gypsy Flowers," combined floral imagery with the romanticized notion of wandering freedom and exotic adventure that fascinated consumers of the era. In 1929, André Chénier introduced Honeysuckle Blossom, celebrating the sweet, nectar-like fragrance of one of the garden's most beloved flowering vines. That same year saw the launch of Bouquet de Souvenirs, translated as "Bouquet of Memories," a particularly evocative title suggesting a perfume composed of treasured recollections and sentimental associations.

Another notable fragrance from 1929 was Valencia. The name likely references the historic Spanish city renowned for its sunshine, orange groves, and Mediterranean beauty. Perfumes bearing the name Valencia frequently sought to evoke the fragrance of orange blossoms and the warmth of southern Europe, making it an appealing choice during an era when exotic travel destinations captured the public imagination.

The early 1930s saw André Chénier introduce a number of increasingly imaginative creations. Chenier 16 (1930) appears to have been a numbered signature fragrance, perhaps intended to suggest a carefully developed formula or a distinguished addition to the house's collection. Marché Nuptiale (1930), translating to "Bridal March" or "Wedding Procession," was clearly designed to evoke romance, marriage, and special occasions. Equally poetic was Corsage du Temps (1930), meaning "Corsage of Time," a title that combines the image of a floral bouquet worn at the shoulder with the passage of time itself, creating a particularly elegant and nostalgic impression.

In 1932, André Chénier expanded beyond fragrance into beauty preparations with Printemps de Paris ("Springtime in Paris"), a skincare line that capitalized on the enduring appeal of Paris as the world's center of fashion and beauty. The name conjured images of flowering gardens, elegant boulevards, and the renewal associated with spring, all themes that resonated strongly with consumers seeking luxury and sophistication.

The final known André Chénier launches demonstrate the growing fascination with glamour and exoticism during the 1930s. Incarnate (1934) derives from the word meaning "flesh-colored" or "embodied," and was often used in cosmetics and beauty products to suggest healthy complexion, vitality, and feminine allure. Night in Orient (1934) embraced the romanticized Oriental themes that were highly fashionable in perfumery at the time. The name evokes visions of moonlit gardens, rare spices, precious woods, and mysterious distant lands, promising an atmosphere of luxury, intrigue, and adventure.

Taken together, the André Chénier fragrances reflect the marketing trends of their era, balancing floral themes, romance, memory, travel, and exotic fantasy. Their names were carefully chosen not merely to identify a scent but to create a mood, tell a story, and transport the wearer into a world of elegance and imagination, embodying the aspirations of the modern woman during the interwar years.



The perfumes created exclusively for B. Altman stores:

  • 1930 Apple Blossom
  • 1931 Lysystra 
  • 1931 Spring Madness 
  • 1931 Chenier 
  • 1931 Jasmin 
  • 1931 Gardenia
  • 1931 Lavender
  • 1931 Chypre 
  • 1931 Rose 
  • 1931 Sweet Pea 
  • 1931 Lilac 
  • 1947 Andalusia


Among the most intriguing chapters in the history of André Chénier was the creation of a collection of perfumes produced exclusively for the prestigious B. Altman department stores of New York. These fragrances were designed to appeal to customers seeking the elegance of French-inspired perfumery while enjoying the convenience of purchasing them through one of America's most respected luxury retailers. The collection combined classic floral soliflores with imaginative fantasy fragrances, reflecting the tastes of fashionable women during the early 1930s.

The line included several perfumes inspired by beloved flowers, each intended to capture the character of a single blossom. Apple Blossom (1930) likely evoked the delicate, fresh fragrance of flowering orchard trees in springtime, combining soft floral notes with hints of green freshness. Introduced in 1931 were Jasmin, Gardenia, Lavender, Rose, Sweet Pea, and Lilac, each celebrating one of perfumery's most cherished floral themes. These fragrances would have appealed to women who preferred recognizable floral scents and allowed customers to select a perfume that reflected their favorite flower or personal style.

Alongside these floral creations were several more imaginative perfumes. Lysystra (1931) appears to have been a fantasy fragrance, its unusual name perhaps inspired by classical literature or ancient mythology. Like many perfumes of the period, the name was likely chosen for its exotic and sophisticated sound rather than any direct reference to fragrance ingredients. Such fanciful names helped distinguish a perfume in a crowded marketplace and added an element of mystery and allure.

Spring Madness (1931) embodied the exuberance and optimism associated with the arrival of spring. The title suggests a fragrance overflowing with blossoms, fresh greenery, and youthful energy. Perfumes inspired by springtime were especially popular during the interwar years, when marketers often emphasized themes of renewal, vitality, and romance. The name itself evokes carefree happiness and the awakening of nature after winter.

Another important offering was simply titled Chenier (1931), which likely served as the brand's signature fragrance within the B. Altman collection. Perfumes bearing the house name were often intended to represent the essence of the brand and may have featured a more complex and refined composition than the straightforward floral soliflores. Such fragrances were designed to embody the elegance and identity of the perfume house itself.

The inclusion of Chypre (1931) is particularly noteworthy. By the early twentieth century, the term "chypre" had come to describe a sophisticated fragrance family built around citrus, oakmoss, woods, and rich floral notes. Inspired by the legendary fragrance style popularized in France, a perfume bearing this name would have appealed to women seeking a more complex and fashionable scent than a traditional floral perfume.

Following a lengthy gap in documented releases, the exclusive B. Altman collection appears to have been revived with Andalusia (1947). Named after the historic region of southern Spain, the perfume likely drew inspiration from sun-drenched landscapes, orange blossoms, gardens, and Moorish architecture. During the postwar period, such romantic Mediterranean themes remained highly appealing, offering consumers an escape into a world of warmth, color, and exotic beauty.

Taken together, the André Chénier fragrances created for B. Altman reveal a carefully balanced collection that combined timeless floral favorites with more imaginative and sophisticated offerings. The assortment allowed customers to choose between familiar garden blossoms, fashionable fragrance styles, and romantic fantasy creations, demonstrating the versatility of the André Chénier brand and its ability to cater to a wide range of tastes within the luxury department store environment.



Viviny Perfumers: 

  • 1930 Valencia d'Amour
  • 1931 Paul de Bois
  • 1932 J.V.G.
  • 1934 Viennese Nights


The fragrances marketed under the Viviny Perfumers name reflect the company's preference for sophisticated, evocative branding that blended romance, European elegance, and contemporary glamour. Although relatively little documentation survives regarding the actual fragrance compositions, the perfume names themselves provide valuable insight into the imagery and aspirations that Viviny sought to convey to consumers during the early 1930s.

One of the earliest known releases was Valencia d'Amour (1930), translated as "Valencia of Love" or "Valencia in Love." The name combines the romantic allure of the Spanish city of Valencia with the universal theme of love, creating an image of sunlit Mediterranean gardens, orange blossoms, and passionate romance. During this period, Spain was frequently romanticized in perfume marketing as a land of beauty, warmth, and exotic charm, making Valencia an appealing source of inspiration for a fragrance.

In 1931, Viviny introduced Paul de Bois. The name translates literally as "Paul of the Woods" or "Paul of the Forest," although it was likely intended to sound aristocratic and distinctly French rather than describe a specific individual. The inclusion of bois ("wood") may suggest that the fragrance featured woody notes, which were increasingly popular in men's and unisex perfumery during the era. The name conveys an impression of refinement, masculinity, and Old World sophistication.

The mysterious J.V.G. (1932) remains one of the more enigmatic entries in the Viviny catalog. The initials may have represented the name of an individual, a collaborator, a company executive, or perhaps a commemorative dedication. Such abbreviated titles were uncommon in perfumery and would have lent the fragrance an air of exclusivity and intrigue. Without surviving advertising or formula records, the precise significance of the initials remains unknown, adding an element of mystery to the perfume's history.

Perhaps the most evocative of the group was Viennese Nights (1934). The name immediately conjures images of Vienna during its golden age: glittering ballrooms, elegant cafés, Strauss waltzes, and aristocratic society gatherings. During the 1930s, Vienna retained a powerful romantic appeal in the public imagination, symbolizing Old World luxury, culture, and refinement. A perfume bearing this name would likely have been marketed as glamorous, sophisticated, and suitable for evening wear, capturing the atmosphere of moonlit dances and continental elegance.

Taken together, these fragrances demonstrate Viviny Perfumers' talent for creating perfumes whose names transported consumers to distant places and romantic settings. Whether inspired by Mediterranean romance, French sophistication, mysterious initials, or the enchantment of Vienna's nightlife, the company's perfumes were designed not merely as fragrances but as invitations to imagine a more glamorous and elegant world.


Jean La Salle Perfumes:

  • Carioca
  • Hayloft


The Jean La Salle perfume line, one of the brands marketed by Viviny Perfumers, appears to have consisted of a small but distinctive collection of fragrances whose names reflected two very different sources of inspiration. Like many American perfume brands of the interwar period, Jean La Salle employed evocative names designed to transport consumers beyond their everyday surroundings, creating an atmosphere of romance, adventure, and imagination.

One of the known perfumes was Carioca. The term originally refers to a native resident of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and by the 1930s had become widely associated with the vibrant culture, music, and nightlife of South America. The name gained additional popularity during the decade through films, dance crazes, and growing fascination with Latin American culture. A perfume called Carioca would have suggested tropical warmth, exotic flowers, rhythmic energy, and cosmopolitan sophistication. To contemporary consumers, it would have evoked visions of moonlit beaches, lush gardens, and the glamorous spirit of Rio de Janeiro.

In striking contrast was Hayloft, a perfume whose name drew inspiration from the rural countryside rather than distant tropical locales. The name evokes the fragrance of freshly cut hay, sun-warmed fields, wild grasses, and the simple pleasures of country life. During the early twentieth century, many fragrance marketers embraced pastoral themes as a way of appealing to consumers seeking a connection to nature and an escape from increasingly urbanized environments. A perfume bearing the name Hayloft would likely have suggested freshness, comfort, and rustic charm, capturing the nostalgic appeal of summer days spent in the countryside.

Together, Carioca and Hayloft illustrate the remarkable range of imagery employed by Jean La Salle. One perfume transported the wearer to the colorful and exotic world of Brazil, while the other celebrated the wholesome simplicity of rural landscapes. Although little information survives regarding their actual fragrance compositions, the names themselves reveal a marketing strategy built upon creating vivid emotional and sensory associations, allowing each perfume to tell its own unique story.

Welcome!

Welcome to my unique perfume blog! Here, you'll find detailed, encyclopedic entries about perfumes and companies, complete with facts and photos for easy research. This site is not affiliated with any perfume companies; it's a reference source for collectors and enthusiasts who cherish classic fragrances. My goal is to highlight beloved, discontinued classics and show current brand owners the demand for their revival. Your input is invaluable! Please share why you liked a fragrance, describe its scent, the time period you wore it, any memorable occasions, or what it reminded you of. Did a relative wear it, or did you like the bottle design? Your stories might catch the attention of brand representatives. I regularly update posts with new information and corrections. Your contributions help keep my entries accurate and comprehensive. Please comment and share any additional information you have. Together, we can keep the legacy of classic perfumes alive!