Alexandra de Markoff Perfumes

The story behind the Alexandra de Markoff Company is woven with aristocratic charm, Hollywood glamour, and a dedication to absolute quality. The brand’s namesake and inspiration, Countess Alexandra de Markoff, was a sophisticated and affluent Russian noblewoman, celebrated not only for her impeccable style but also for her exacting standards. The Countess served as a muse for a company that would later become synonymous with high-end skincare, luxury cosmetics, and exclusivity.

Though romanticized in branding, the company itself was likely founded by Martin de Markoff, whose full operations ran under the name Martin de Botelho in New York City. The name “Alexandra de Markoff” honored his mother, and the elegance of her name became a symbol for the refined clientele the brand sought to attract. Botelho, a Brazilian citizen, styled the company with an international allure, blending Russian nobility with the cosmopolitan glamour of 20th-century fashion and beauty.

 

Early affiliations with figures such as Prince George of Russia and the fashion house Ballarde Inc. helped ground the brand in a sense of European haute couture prestige. Over time, Alexandra de Markoff became associated with Revlon, where it retained its status as a premium line even within a larger commercial framework. At the heart of the brand’s allure was an unwavering commitment to excellence. For Madame de Markoff, top-tier quality was never optional—it was the foundation of her entire philosophy. Her skincare formulas and makeup products were expected to rival the finest available in Europe or America, with an emphasis on luxury ingredients, elegance of presentation, and performance. 

This commitment is best exemplified in one of the company’s most legendary creations: Countess Isserlyn foundation, a product that became a backstage essential for film stars of the 1920s and 1930s. Created by makeup artist Anatole Robbins, the formula was designed to perform under the punishing glare of studio lights, remaining flawless and natural-looking without cracking or fading. Its fluid consistency, extensive shade range, and dewy finish made it revolutionary for the era—and a cult favorite for decades. From its origin in the world of nobility to its role in the golden age of Hollywood, Alexandra de Markoff stood for something rare in the cosmetics world: timeless sophistication, personalized luxury, and a belief that beauty should always be a refined, enduring art. 

The perfumes of Countess de Markoff:

• 1939 Alexandra de Markoff
• 1940 Spring Goddess
• 1940 Virgin Flower
• 1940 Water Nymph
• 1946 French Jasmin
• 1948 Fragrant Fern Cologne, re-launched in association with Revlon in 1979
• 1951 Tribute
• 1955 Tiara (sophisticated, voluptuous floral)
• 1972 Enigma (originally by Alexa, Inc)
• 1979 Alexandra
• 1979 Aston
• 1994 No Regrets
• Magical Gardens

Alexandra de Markoff by Alexandra de Markoff: released in 1939 was housed in a wonderful Baccarat crystal bottle. This is very hard to find today, I have only seen one example.

Alexandra: In association with Revlon; a classical soft semi-oriental fragrance for women. Press materials read: "The semi-oriental bouquet is a rare and beautiful mix of jasmine and jonquil from France, rose from Morocco, iris from Italy and marigold from South Africa. Underscoring this floral harmony are warm woodsy notes, sandalwood from India, patchouli from Singapore and vetiver from the Reunion Islands in the Indian Ocean. Embers of musk and oakmoss give a long-lasting, exotic fullness.   

• Top notes: Italian iris, South African marigold
• Middle notes: French jasmine, Moroccan rose, French jonquil
• Base notes: Indian sandalwood, musk, Singapore patchouli, oakmoss and Reunion vetiver

Tribute: heady oriental perfume with notes of oak moss and oriental balsams.


Enigma: A woody oriental chypre parfum. Patchouli dominant composition - semi-oriental. It begins with a fresh top, followed by an exotic floral heart, layered over a sweet powdery base. Press materials read: "A patchouli composition, the fragrance is sweet-herbaceous, aromatic-spicy and woody-balsamic. Composed of modern blends of floral and aldehydic themes, softened and enriched with amber specialities, together with refined animal-like notes."

• Top notes: green aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, rosewood, coriander, pimento, herbs
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, orris, geranium, orchid
• Base notes: sandalwood, carnation, ambergris, civet, vanilla, benzoin, spices, incense, vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss.

Aston: Citrus and lavender overtones warmed by sandalwood, patchouli and middle eastern spice offerings.

No Regrets: Sub-titled 'because life is too short'; in association with Revlon; a crisp white floral parfum. The white floral scent with accents of wood, fruit and spice notes.

• Top notes: mandarin, ylang ylang, galbanum, osmanthus
• Middle notes: lily, orange blossom, tuberose, gardenia, orris, night queen
• Base notes: oakmoss, tolu balsam, musk, sandalwood, vetiver

Tiara: is a voluptuous floral.

The New Yorker, 1938:

"You can get De Markoff’s bath essence (a pungent, floral odor) with an atomizer in a case for $5. His jasmine satin-covered soaps, bath oils, and powder have been famous for years"

The New Yorker, 1939:

"De Markoff: Cologne de Markoff (both men and women go for it) is put up in a towering conical bottle with the longest atomizer top you ever saw; $5. His elegant bath ensembles include a pungent, floral toilet essence, oil, soaps, and powders. The essence with four soaps is $3. His satin-wrapped jasmin soaps are very popular."  

 

 

Alexa Inc. Perfumes:

A separate line created in 1944, called "Alexa Perfumes" absorbed some of the fragrances originally sold under the "Prince George of Russia" name such as Tiara. The Alexa line also repurposed the black glass bottles originally used by the Prince George of Russia line. The Alexa line was shelved by the mid 1950s and Tiara was relaunched under the Alexandra de Markoff name in 1955.

Perfumes sold under Alexa Inc:

• 1944 Enigma
• 1944 Tiara (originally sold under the Prince George of Russia name)

 

Enigma was launched in 1944 by Alexa, Inc. It was still being sold in 1949. In 1949, both Enigma and Tiara by Alexa was discontinued. Reasons given in newspaper ads at the time mentioned it was because the packaging style was being discontinued. I do not see any ads for Alexa's perfumes after 1949 so I believe the Alexa line was fully discontinued.

Alexa's Enigma may have been reincarnated as the 1968 Enigma by Alexandra de Markoff, it was also re-released in 1972 not sure if it is the same formulation.

So what does it smell like? Enigma is classified as a musky, spicy Oriental perfume for women.

 

From vintage ads:

"A dash of Alexa's "Enigma' has the power to make you the tantalizing female you'd like to be." 

"Enigma" is offered in two strengths— the Extrait de Parfum, a pure perfume extract, and a light perfume— in several sizes. New and nose-catching!" 

"Alexa's Enigma perfume was dramatically packaged in a shiny black bottle with white design and retails at $15 for six drams." 

"Alexa's "Enigma," mysterious and charming." 

"Women will wear Enigma ("its power mysterious, baffling") to give them confidence to go forth of an evening and conquer — or simply to talk back to the foreman."