Houpette Pli Retractable Powder Puffs

In this guide, I will introduce you to the charming and somewhat obscure world of the Houpette Pli—a petite, cylindrical powder container from France, most notable for its ingenious retractable swansdown puff. The term "houpette" translates to "puff" in French, while "pli" means "fold," a reference to the puff’s unique ability to collapse and expand within the container. This clever little device was manufactured by Alexandre Willk, whose most prominent client was the renowned perfumery Molinard.

The Pli was produced in a variety of materials popular in the early 20th century, such as celluloid, bakelite, and galalith—a biodegradable plastic made from casein (milk protein). These materials were not only chosen for their lightweight, durable properties, but also for the glossy finish and range of colors they could provide, often lending the Plis a sleek, decorative appearance. The base of the container typically unscrews to allow it to be filled with loose face powder. One of the most common markings found on these pieces is: “Brevete Pli S.G.D.G. Made in France”, which indicates it was patented under French law without government guarantee—a common disclaimer seen on vintage French mechanical goods.

c1934 ad

How to Use:

The mechanism of the Pli is what sets it apart. Unscrewing the top cap reveals a fluffy swansdown puff, which is tucked inside the cylindrical body. When the user pushes up the base of the galalith (mistakenly called French bakelite) cylinder, the puff slowly emerges and expands, thanks to an internal support system made of fine, flexible wires attached to the exterior material encasing the down. These wires act like ribs, helping to fan out the puff as it rises, allowing the delicate goose down feathers to form a soft, rounded dome—ready to lightly dust the face with powder. Powder is dispensed from the lower compartment, which can be accessed by unscrewing the cap on the bottom. Users would gently tap or shake the puff to draw up powder before applying it.

Unscrew stopper of the small tub and fill with powder: do not overfill. Then screw up again. 

Unscrew stopper of larger tube, and press on lower stopper so as to project the spring puff.

Shake the puff slightly before using, so as to work a sufficient quantity of powder into the down.

Never unscrew the upper and the lower stoppers at the same time.

Pli Containers:

Galalith, a name derived from the Greek words gala (milk) and lithos (stone), is a unique, early plastic made from casein, the protein found in milk, and formaldehyde. Developed in the late 19th century and brought into broader commercial use around 1900, Galalith was celebrated for its dense, stone-like feel, its ability to take on a high polish, and—perhaps most significantly—its exceptional capacity to be dyed in vivid, uniform colors. It was primarily produced in France and Germany, where it saw widespread use through the 1920s and into the 1940s, particularly in fashion accessories, buttons, jewelry, and vanity items.

Galalith is quite distinct from its contemporaries like celluloid and Bakelite. While celluloid is also a semi-synthetic plastic, derived from cellulose and highly flammable, Galalith is nonflammable and more stable. Bakelite, on the other hand, is a true thermoset plastic made entirely from synthetic materials, and while it is durable, it is prone to oxidation, which causes its colors to darken and dull over time—especially in shades like butterscotch or olive green. In contrast, Galalith retains its vibrant coloration even after nearly a century, which is why vintage collectors often find Galalith items in a striking array of colors that remain remarkably vivid.

This quality made Galalith a perfect material for use in decorative vanity items, particularly the cylindrical containers for Pli Houpettes, the stylish powder puffs that were a staple of Art Deco-era cosmetics. These containers were produced in a plethora of colors—sunny yellow, sky blue, royal blue, jade green, blush pink, lavender purple, bright orange, lacquer black, crimson red—and even clever imitations of tortoiseshell and ivory, offering both visual appeal and a sense of affordable luxury.

Beyond color, Galalith was highly receptive to surface treatments and embellishment. Many Plis were hand-painted with enamel, adorned with gilded or silvered patterns, or even inlaid with sparkling glass rhinestones, adding to their glamour. The artistry didn’t stop at decoration—Art Deco design sensibilities were deeply embedded in the forms themselves. The cylinders often featured abstract floral motifs, sharp geometrics, or stylized female figures, making each Pli not just a powder puff case, but a miniature statement piece—both fashion accessory and object of art.

In this way, Galalith helped define a certain kind of accessible elegance during the interwar years. Its versatility, durability, and beauty made it ideal for the modern woman on the go, and today, these small containers endure as brilliant examples of the fusion of technology and design that characterized the Art Deco era.

Markings:

Collectors and vintage beauty enthusiasts should familiarize themselves with a few common French terms found on these containers. “Brevet” or “Brevete” simply means patent, not a maker’s name. “Cie” or “Compagnie” means company. You may also encounter “Déposé” (registered), “Modèle Déposé” (registered design), or “Marque Déposée” (registered trademark). If your Pli is marked “Décoré à la main,” that means it was hand decorated, and “Bté. SGDG” stands for “Breveté Sans Garantie du Gouvernement”—a phrase which reassures you that it was patented, though the government does not vouch for its function.

Molinard Branded Plis:

Collectors of vintage beauty items often come across boxes for Pli Houpettes bearing a label from Molinard, the prestigious perfumery based in Grasse, France. At first glance, this might lead some to believe that Molinard was the manufacturer of the Plis themselves. However, this is a misconception. Molinard did not produce the Pli containers; rather, they served as a retailer or distributor of these stylish powder puff holders during the height of their popularity.

These Plis were likely purchased wholesale and branded with Molinard labels for sale in the company’s boutique gift shop at their factory in Grasse—a destination known for offering unique and elegant souvenirs to visitors touring the historic perfume house. Others may have been sold in department stores that carried Molinard products or even included as complimentary gifts with the purchase of a Molinard fragrance, a marketing practice common in the early to mid-20th century.

The presence of the Molinard label does, however, add an additional layer of interest and provenance. As a well-regarded name in French perfumery, Molinard’s association with the Plis lends them extra appeal for collectors, especially those interested in the intersection of cosmetics, perfume, and packaging history. Nonetheless, it's important to distinguish between manufacture and merchandising—the Plis themselves were created by a separate firm specializing in vanity items, likely in Paris or another center of cosmetic production, while Molinard helped bring them into the hands of perfume lovers through carefully curated retail offerings.

Despite their rarity today, Houpette Plis are marvels of beauty and engineering—miniature testaments to the elegance and ingenuity of early 20th-century French vanity culture. Each one is a small piece of cosmetic history, showcasing the creative flair and refined attention to detail that characterized beauty tools of the period.

Gallery of Houpette Plis:

photos from worthpoint