Ciao by Houbigant (1980)

Launched in 1980, Ciao by Houbigant arrived with a name as spirited and international as the fragrance itself. The choice of the name "Ciao", the informal Italian greeting meaning both hello and goodbye, was bold, cosmopolitan, and deliberately charming. Pronounced "chow" (like the food), this single word captured a world of meaning—at once warm and casual, intimate and breezy, playful yet stylish. The word is Italian, and it instantly evokes imagery of cobblestone streets, spontaneous café conversations, Vespa rides through Rome, and the charismatic, carefree elegance of la dolce vita. It's a name that implies ease, vitality, and sensuality—a fitting prelude to the fragrance within.

Interestingly, Houbigant had trademarked "Ciao" as early as 1966, long before the fragrance's actual release. This early registration coincided with the influence of Enrico Donati, the Italian painter and sculptor who had married into the Houbigant family and eventually acquired controlling interest in the company. Donati's Italian heritage and his artistic sensibility may well have inspired the name—a cross-cultural nod that hinted at Houbigant’s increasingly international outlook, blending French tradition with Italian verve.

The marketing reflected this international spirit: “L’Élégance de Paris. The vitality of New York. La dolce vita di Roma.” This positioning gave Ciao a threefold personality. From Paris came sophistication and heritage. From New York, modern energy and boldness. And from Rome, romance, sensuality, and a carefree spirit. All of it was bottled in France, underscoring Houbigant’s enduring pedigree.

The year 1980 stood at the crossroads of two decades. The minimalist, green fragrances of the 1970s were beginning to give way to the bolder, richer, and more complex scents that would come to define the 1980s. It was a time of assertiveness and luxury in perfumery—power suits, designer logos, and an unapologetic return to glamour. Ciao stepped confidently into this new era, bridging modern sophistication with a romantic undercurrent.

Women of the time would have found Ciao intriguing: the name alone was flirtatious and worldly, suggesting spontaneity and travel, while the scent itself offered depth, elegance, and warmth. It was for the woman who could navigate a Parisian boutique in the morning, close a Manhattan boardroom deal in the afternoon, and sip Campari on a Roman terrace by dusk. There was ease, complexity, and international flair all at once.

Ciao is classified as a floral-chypre, a structure that blends bright citrus and rich florals with a mossy, woody base. It opens with a lively top—a combination of citrus, spice, and fruit—that immediately communicates vibrancy and motion. This sparkling opening is followed by a sweet floral heart, built around osmanthus, an exquisite flower from East Asia. Its scent is often compared to apricots, honey, and tea, and was noted at the time as a groundbreaking choice—Ciao was reportedly the first mainstream perfume to use osmanthus as a central essence. This rare note gave the fragrance an unmistakable exotic nuance.

Supporting the osmanthus was a lush bouquet: jasmine from Italy, hyacinth, blackcurrant (cassis), and Turkish rose. The florals are not dainty—they are expressive, rich, and sensual, forming a full-bodied heart. These notes rest on a classic chypre base: oakmoss, sandalwood, and patchouli, all of which contribute warmth, longevity, and an earthy depth. The addition of powdery and mossy nuances created a finish that was both comforting and sophisticated.

While Ciao echoed the chypre structures popular in earlier decades, its use of osmanthus, its rich semi-oriental character, and its blending of floral-fruit-spice set it apart from many other offerings on the market. At a time when some fragrances leaned into either crisp minimalism or heady orientals, Ciao carved out a path that was both structured and sensuous, modern yet timeless.

In short, Ciao was more than a perfume—it was a message. A scent for the woman who was chic without trying, global in her outlook, and completely at ease in her own skin. Through its name, ingredients, and character, it perfectly captured the spirit of a transitional moment in perfumery—one foot in the elegance of tradition, the other in the bold future of fragrance.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Ciao by Houbigant  is classified as a rich, floral-chypre fragrance for women. It starts with a citrusy, spicy, fruity top, followed by a sweet floral heart, resting on a warm, mossy and powdery base. It was originally billed as a semi-oriental fragrance with a heart of osmanthus, a rare Oriental flower so fragrant, the makers said that one bush can scent a whole temple garden. It was believed that this was the first time that osmanthus was used as a key essence in perfume. This exotic blossom is intertwined with jasmine from Italy for the main floral theme and blended with a hint of hyacinth, cassis (black currants) and roses from Turkey. The woody, green, mossy chypre note, composed of oakmoss, sandalwood and patchouli, gives warmth, depth and lasting quality to the fragrance.

• Top notes: fruity note accord, Amalfi lemon, Brazilian rosewood, Mediterranean basil, Indian cumin, green notes accord, Chinese osmanthus
• Middle notes:  Prussian cassis, Egyptian jasmine, Dutch hyacinth, Alpine lily of the valley, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Florentine orris, Bulgarian rose, Grasse carnation 
• Base notes: Indonesian patchouli, Virginian cedar, Haitian vetiver, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, Siam benzoin, Tonkin musk, ambergris, leather 

Scent Profile:

To inhale Ciao by Houbigant is to be transported on a fragrant journey across continents, cultures, and sensibilities. From the very first moment, the top notes burst forward with a bright, zesty sharpness, led by Amalfi lemon, whose fine, sun-drenched rind gives a sparkling lift, sweeter and more refined than ordinary citrus. Amalfi lemons, grown along Italy’s coastal cliffs, are prized for their aromatic peel and low bitterness—offering a fresh, almost effervescent quality. This brilliance is softened and rounded by a fruity accord, where notes of stone fruits and perhaps soft pear or peach add a gentle succulence. Brazilian rosewood, now endangered and no longer used in modern formulas, once contributed a unique balance—rosy and slightly woody, almost peppery, blending seamlessly with the citrus to create a warm, sophisticated prelude.

A touch of green Mediterranean basil brings in an herbaceous, almost licorice-like note—cool, green, aromatic—cut through with the exotic heat of Indian cumin, which adds an earthy, skin-like warmth, gently spiced and grounding. It's not aggressive, but rather sensual, hinting at hidden depth to come. The green notes accord, likely built on synthetics like cis-3-hexenol, creates a crushed-leaf freshness—dewy, vibrant, and green as a spring morning.

Then comes the rare and unforgettable heart: Chinese osmanthus, a golden, apricot-scented bloom with creamy floral undertones and a suede-like richness. Grown high in the subtropical provinces of China, the osmanthus flower releases an aroma so rich that it lingers in temple gardens long after sunset. It smells of ripe peaches steeped in honeyed tea, with a leathery nuance that gently evokes the feel of sun-warmed skin. This exquisite floral is rarely used in high concentration due to its cost and complexity—here, it is the soul of the fragrance.

Woven through this osmanthus heart is Italian jasmine, grown in the temperate Mediterranean sun, known for its radiance and full-bodied narcotic sweetness. It’s joined by Dutch hyacinth, whose cool, waxy, and green floralcy gives a dewy freshness, contrasting with the headier blooms. Prussian cassis, the blackcurrant bud absolute, lends a sharp, green-fruity edge that smells of crushed leaves and tart berries—a distinctive, almost animalic aroma that gives energy and lift to the florals. Nossi-Bé ylang ylang, from the island off Madagascar, adds a creamy, almost banana-like sweetness that bridges fruit and flower.

The bouquet continues to unfold: Florentine orris, derived from the dried root of the iris flower, offers a powdery, softly woody coolness that acts as a bridge from floral to base. It’s subtle and dry, adding elegance and softness. Bulgarian rose, harvested in the famed Valley of the Roses, brings a honeyed, velvety, and slightly spicy floral tone, while Grasse carnation, with its clove-rich spiciness, adds a warm and peppery depth that begins to signal the perfume’s transition into its complex chypre base.

As the fragrance settles, the rich base emerges—deep, warm, and endlessly sensual. Indonesian patchouli, dark and earthy with its camphoraceous edges smoothed, mingles with Virginian cedar, whose clean pencil-shavings dryness adds vertical structure. Haitian vetiver, rooty and smoky, offers both brightness and shadow, its mineral and grassy tones grounding the perfume. The chypre’s classic hallmark, Yugoslavian oakmoss, lends a damp, forest-floor richness—slightly bitter, mossy, and cool—giving the fragrance its unmistakable vintage backbone.

Into this base, Mysore sandalwood—once the finest in the world—is layered for its milky, creamy, gently spicy warmth. Real Mysore sandalwood, from India’s Karnataka region, has a uniquely soft and almost sacred scent—rich without being heavy, smooth as velvet. Siam benzoin, with its resinous, sweet-vanilla warmth, enhances the powdery facets of the florals and orris, while ambergris, a rarity derived from the ocean, gives the base a salty, animalic depth and a silky diffusion that allows the fragrance to cling to the skin. Tonkin musk, once derived from deer but now recreated synthetically, adds a soft, almost skin-like sensuality, while leather provides a smoky, slightly tarred nuance, grounding the perfume with luxurious depth and suggestion.

Together, these notes form a deeply evocative and multidimensional perfume—at once fruity, floral, spicy, green, woody, mossy, and animalic. Each ingredient contributes its voice to the overall harmony, creating a fragrance that is not linear but evolves slowly and luxuriously across hours. Synthetic aroma molecules likely enhanced the lift and longevity—Hedione may have extended the jasmine’s radiance, while Iso E Super might lend a cedar-like transparency and a soft skin feel, letting the denser notes breathe.

Ciao by Houbigant is not merely a perfume—it is a portrait of confidence and complexity, painted with masterful strokes of rare ingredients and subtle synthetics. It is a fragrance that travels—from citrus-laced mornings to dusky gardens and velvet evenings—leaving an impression of elegance touched with intrigue, like a whispered farewell at the end of a long, unforgettable day.

 

Product Line:

Ciao by Houbigant was offered in an impressively well-rounded line of fragrance and body products, reflecting both the elegance of the perfume and the brand’s longstanding commitment to luxury. At its core was the parfum, the most concentrated and refined form of the fragrance, available in three sizes—1.0 oz, 0.5 oz, and 0.25 oz—each reflecting a carefully tiered pricing strategy that made the scent accessible to varying levels of indulgence. In 1981, the 1 oz parfum retailed for $90, a significant sum at the time, equivalent to over $330 in 2025 dollars. By 1987, this price had risen to $130—a mark of both inflation and the scent’s continued prestige, equal to nearly $376 in today’s terms. These figures place Ciao firmly within the realm of luxury perfumery, marketed to a sophisticated clientele who valued rarity and olfactory complexity.

The smaller sizes of 0.5 oz and 0.25 oz offered similar extravagance in more compact formats. The 0.5 oz, sold at $50 in 1981 and $80 in 1987, would cost between $185 and $231 today, while the smallest 0.25 oz version saw an even more dramatic price increase—from $30 in 1981 to $60 by 1987, which in 2025 dollars ranges from $110 to $173. These bottles were likely purchased as personal indulgences or luxurious gifts, their diminutive size no reflection on their potency. For the truly loyal wearer, a parfum spray was also introduced in 0.25 oz format—both as a full bottle ($32.50) and a refill ($22.50) in 1987. These, too, were priced with luxury in mind, equating to approximately $94 and $65 today. The refillable concept was not only practical but reflected a sensibility of refinement and ritual—maintaining the integrity of the original bottle while replenishing the scent inside.

More accessible—and wearable for daily use—was the Eau de Parfum, sold in both 2.5 oz and 1.5 oz spray bottles. These concentrations were lighter than the extrait but still rich and long-lasting, ideal for daytime wear or generous application. In 1984, the 2.5 oz size retailed for $25, rising modestly to $27.50 in 1987, equating to just under $80 today. The smaller 1.5 oz size was priced at $18.50 to $21.00, translating to approximately $58 to $61 in modern terms. These versions made the fragrance more attainable to a broader audience, while still maintaining the air of high-end French perfumery.

To extend the fragrance experience, Houbigant also produced a suite of ancillary products: shower gel, body lotion, perfumed powder, and soap. These were essential to the classic art of fragrance layering, allowing the wearer to build the scent gradually and luxuriously from bath to skin to final perfume. The shower gel would gently cleanse while laying down a trace of the fragrance’s top notes. The body lotion, likely infused with the heart notes, would moisturize and help the scent cling closer to the skin. The powder, light and silken, was likely imbued with the floral-chypre drydown—sandalwood, patchouli, oakmoss—creating a soft, intimate cloud. Finally, the soap, probably finely milled and richly perfumed, would offer a fragrant beginning to the ritual, making even the most mundane routines feel elevated and sensual.

Together, the Ciao line encapsulated not just a perfume, but a lifestyle. Each product was carefully designed to allow the wearer to experience the fragrance in varying intensities and forms, from the concentrated mystery of the extrait to the airy whisper of powder and soap. The pricing reflects both the brand's pedigree and its positioning in the luxury market of the 1980s—an era when fragrance was a signature, a statement, and a daily adornment.

In 1980, Ciao by Houbigant made its dramatic entrance into the world of fine fragrance, not merely as a perfume, but as a cultural statement. Media coverage from the time captured its energetic spirit and sophisticated flair. Cosmopolitan described it as “La Dolce Vita in a bottle,” referencing the famous Fellini film and the lifestyle it evoked—carefree, stylish, unapologetically sensual. With its vibrant composition of over 200 ingredients, Ciao was no minimalist scent. Instead, it was described as an offbeat semi-oriental floral chypre, bursting with what Cosmo playfully called “oodles of oomph.” This was a perfume for the confident woman of the early 1980s—modern, worldly, and uninhibited.

Ladies' Home Journal highlighted the rarity and allure of the fragrance's star floral note: “A rare oriental flower, the heady osmanthus, forms the base of this ravishing new scent.” The description points to the perfume's uniqueness in an increasingly competitive market. Osmanthus, not widely used at the time, added an exotic twist to the familiar chypre structure. It was the floral note that anchored Ciao and gave it both its mystery and warmth. In this article, the fragrance was offered as a 4 oz Eau de Cologne for $15, a more accessible concentration that allowed the wider public to enjoy the essence of Houbigant's daring new creation.

Playbill, with its readership steeped in New York’s theater-going culture, leaned into the cosmopolitan charm of the name itself: “You know that stylish international salutation, ‘Ciao’? Now it names a perfume.” In just a few words, they conveyed the dual identity of the scent—effortlessly international, yet still steeped in European luxury. Referring again to its semi-oriental, floral chypre structure, the review notes the perfume’s “plenty of Italian” character—passionate, romantic, and just a little bit decadent. The ounce of parfum was priced at $90, confirming its place in the upper tier of luxury fragrance offerings of the time.

The bottle and packaging were equally striking—designed to stand apart from the sea of conventional flacons. The presentation was inspired by a European boutique "shadow box", echoing the display windows of fine shops in Paris, Milan, or Rome. A transparent front panel revealed a mirror-bright, silvery backdrop, reflecting light and catching the eye—a deliberate play on the allure of glamour and mystery. Nestled behind this gleaming facade was the heart of the experience: a hand-polished French perfume bottle, elegant in its simplicity and tactile in its luxury. This design not only elevated the scent itself but also conveyed the tactile pleasure and exclusivity of owning Ciao.

Together, the marketing and design of Ciao formed a cohesive story: one of international flair, timeless seduction, and bold femininity. It wasn’t just a perfume—it was a statement of style and escape, wrapped in reflective silver and bottled with artful precision.

Fate of the Fragrance:

By 1992, Ciao by Houbigant had quietly slipped from the shelves, discontinued after just over a decade of production. Its exit marked the end of a distinctly glamorous chapter for the house—a fragrance that had embodied the cosmopolitan confidence of the 1980s. As the fragrance industry shifted into the grunge-influenced minimalism and fresh aquatic trends of the early 1990s, rich, floral chypres and semi-orientals like Ciao began to feel out of step with changing tastes. The opulence and layered complexity that once defined Ciao were being replaced by cleaner, crisper compositions, marketed toward a younger, more understated consumer.

Fragrance houses across the board were reformulating, retiring, or reimagining their lines in response to stricter IFRA regulations and evolving market demands. For a scent like Ciao, which relied on a tapestry of over 200 ingredients—including natural oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, and possibly non-synthetic musks—discontinuation was likely a practical decision as much as a strategic one. Reformulating such a complex composition without losing its character may have proven difficult, or commercially unviable, especially as the brand's focus shifted.

Though its production ceased, Ciao left behind a strong olfactory legacy. Its daring use of osmanthus, Italian jasmine, Turkish rose, and a boldly mossy chypre base earned it a place in the memory of fragrance lovers who appreciated the artistry of old-world perfumery. Today, Ciao is remembered as a cult favorite, and bottles occasionally resurface on the secondary market—coveted not just for their contents, but for the story they tell of a time when perfume was bold, unapologetic, and luxuriously complex.