Wednesday, March 12, 2014

Tropiques by Lancome c1935

Tropiques by Lancôme was launched in 1935, one of the first five perfumes created by Armand Petitjean for his newly founded house. The name Tropiques comes from the French word for “tropics,” pronounced as "troh-peek", evoking distant, sun-drenched lands and lush, untamed landscapes. The choice of name reflects Petitjean’s inspiration: the tropical port city of Bahia in Brazil. The word itself conjures images of warmth, adventure, and sensuality—steaming jungles heavy with the scent of exotic blossoms, bustling harbors filled with spices and cargo from faraway places, and languid evenings under swaying palms.

The perfume reportedly took four years to be completed. Petitjean envisioned Tropiques as a sensory voyage. He described a man in a white suit strolling along the Pernambuco harbor in the late afternoon, surrounded by the bustle of ships unloading bananas, molasses, spices, precious woods, rum, leather, and hemp—aromas intensified by the sun and mingled with the salty breath of the tide. From the heat and clamor of the port, the journey shifts to the calm shade of fragrant gardens in the residential part of town, where rare flowers bloom in luxurious stillness. The fragrance’s bottle, encircled with rope motifs and touched with fine gold, mirrored the nautical and exotic themes of its creation.

The year 1935 places Tropiques in the heart of the interwar period, often referred to as the Golden Age of perfumery. This was a time when luxury goods offered an escape from political unrest and economic recovery. In fashion, Paris led the way with bias-cut gowns, languid silhouettes, and travel-inspired resort wear that echoed a growing fascination with far-off destinations. Women of the time—particularly those of cosmopolitan or artistic circles—would have viewed a perfume named Tropiques as a passport to an exotic, romantic world they might never visit in person but could inhabit through scent.

In composition, Tropiques was classified as a spicy floral oriental (amber) fragrance, described as a lush cluster of orchids in a virgin forest, accented with citrus, tropical fruits, exotic white flowers, spices, and warm precious woods. The scent was enriched with balsamic undertones, vanilla, and cinnamon, offering what Petitjean called “a persistent and poetic evocation of exotic nights.” He noted that its richness, “like honey, with a heavy coating of spices and aromatics,” was not for everyone—it tended to overwhelm more restrained northern and English tastes but resonated deeply with women of society and the arts.

Compared to other perfumes of its day, Tropiques was ambitious and distinctive. While the 1930s saw both delicate florals and heavier orientals in vogue, Petitjean’s creation married these styles into something more opulent, more tropical in spirit, and more transportive in narrative. It debuted at the Universal Exhibition in Brussels alongside Lancôme’s other inaugural perfumes—Tendre Nuit, Bocages, Conquête, and Kypre—cementing its place in the brand’s early identity as a house of luxurious, storytelling fragrances.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Tropiques by Lancome is classified as a spicy floral oriental (amber) fragrance for women. It was described as a cluster of orchids in the untamed forest, laden with citrus, tropical fruits, spices, exotic white flowers and warm precious woods. Scents of the virgin forest, aromas of vanilla and cinnamon, the breath of orchids, balsamic notes—this brings us a persistent and poetic evocation of exotic nights.

It begins with a zesty citrus top of juicy mandarin and bright bergamot scattered with pungent spices and aromatic notes, followed by a white floral heart of tropical ylang ylang, radiant jasmine, narcotic gardenia, heady tuberose and delicate orchid drizzled with honey, layered over a base of creamy sandalwood and other precious woods, animalic notes of leather and ambergris, resting against green undertones of oakmoss and dry vetiver.

Top notes: aldehyde C10, aldehyde C11, aldehyde C12, Calabrian bergamot, Italian mandarin, linalool, linalyl acetate, Sichuan pepper, Zanzibar clove, isoeugenol, Saigon cinnamon, aromatic notes, banana, mango, pineapple, coconut
Middle notes: Dutch orchid, Chinese gardenia, Provencal honey, Egyptian jasmine, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, ionones, methyl ionone, Portuguese tuberose, French carnation, lemongrass, basil, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, heliotropin, Florentine orris butter
Base notes: molasses, rum, hemp, leather, Mysore sandalwood, Madagascar vanilla, vanillin, tonka bean, coumarin, Siam benzoin, precious woods, ambergris, castoreum, civet, musk ketone, musk ambrette, labdanum resin, styrax, opoponax, Malaysian patchouli, Brazilian rosewood, Atlas cedar, Haitian vetiver, vetiveryl acetate, Yugoslavian oakmoss

Scent Profile:

Tropiques opens with a sunburst of aldehydes—C10, C11, and C12—bringing a sparkling, champagne-like effervescence, like light glinting through tropical foliage at dawn. The aldehydes enhance the citrus, amplifying the juicy sparkle of Calabrian bergamot, prized for its refined, floral-tinged bitterness, and the sweet brightness of Italian mandarin, whose essential oil carries a softer, almost candy-like warmth compared to mandarins grown elsewhere. Linalool and linalyl acetate weave a delicate, transparent floral veil over the citrus, making the opening shimmer.

In contrast, the heat of Sichuan pepper bursts forth—tingly, citric, and slightly numbing—followed by the warm, clove-like intensity of Zanzibar clove, its eugenol-rich oil richer and more rounded than other varieties. Saigon cinnamon, dark and almost cocoa-like, deepens the spice chord. Intertwined with these are aromatic notes—an herby-green hum that sets the stage for the lushness to come—while tropical fruits bloom into the composition: banana, sweet and creamy; mango, pulpy and resinous; pineapple, sharp and juicy; and coconut, creamy yet dry, lending a sun-warmed, beachside nuance.

The heart of Tropiques is an opulent, humid bouquet—like stepping into a greenhouse where the air itself drips with nectar. Dutch orchids bring a delicate, slightly powdery floral breath, a counterpoint to the narcotic, buttery richness of Chinese gardenia. Provencal honey adds a golden, syrupy depth, its pollen-rich aroma binding the florals together. Egyptian jasmine, famed for its indolic warmth, is both radiant and animalic, while Nossi-Be ylang ylang from Madagascar’s coast offers a velvety, banana-like floral creaminess.

Ionones and methyl ionone—violet-scented aroma molecules—lend a cool, powdery elegance, making the bouquet feel airy despite its density. Portuguese tuberose saturates the air with its heady, creamy sweetness, while French carnation contributes a spiced, clove-tinged floral bite. Lemongrass and basil—bright green and slightly citrusy—cut through the floral richness with herbal freshness. Benzyl acetate, sweet and jasmine-like, and benzyl salicylate, softly balsamic, give structure, while heliotropin (piperonal) wraps the flowers in almond-vanilla warmth. Finally, Florentine orris butter lends a rooty, suede-like powderiness that fuses seamlessly into the floral heart.

The base is an exotic, resinous tapestry, as warm and persistent as the tropics at night. Molasses and rum bring a dark, boozy sweetness, echoing sugarcane and sun-drenched ports. Hemp adds an earthy, slightly smoky greenness, while leather notes provide an animalic, supple depth. Mysore sandalwood—creamy, milky, and with an unmatched smoothness—melts into Madagascar vanilla, whose lush, bourbon-like richness is amplified by vanillin’s crystalline sweetness. Tonka bean and coumarin add a warm, hay-like almond nuance, while Siam benzoin brings caramelized balsamic smoothness.

Precious woods deepen the base—Brazilian rosewood’s rosy spice, Atlas cedar’s dry pencil-shaving clarity, and other tropical hardwoods lending subtle resin tones. Ambergris shimmers through, marine and mineral, with castoreum, civet, and vintage musk ketone and musk ambrette weaving a sensual, animalic pelt around the composition. Labdanum resin, styrax, and opoponax add leathery, smoky-balsamic shadows, while Malaysian patchouli grounds everything with earthy, chocolatey richness. Haitian vetiver’s dry, smoky-grassy elegance is smoothed by vetiveryl acetate’s clean, woody refinement, while Yugoslavian oakmoss anchors the base with cool, forest-floor mossiness.

The result is a fragrance of lush contrasts—sunlit citrus against sultry spices, humid florals tempered by airy ionones, and a base that feels at once like warm skin and ancient wood. Tropiques is not merely a perfume—it is a slow exhale of the jungle at dusk, each note breathing life into the next, painting an olfactory landscape as vivid and layered as an exotic night.

Bottles:

Tropiques Deluxe Bottle:

Tropiques was presented in several bottle designs over the years, but its deluxe parfum flacon remains one of the most iconic and evocative. Crafted from clear crystal, the bottle is almost square in shape, with a flat silhouette that carries a tactile decoration of simulated knotted ropes molded in relief. These golden ropes wrap around the bottle, symbolizing the perfume’s maritime and tropical inspirations—reminiscent of cargo bound tightly for distant ports. The craftsmanship is exquisite: a thick crystal cover conceals a ground glass inner stopper, and the neck is encircled with delicate gold baudruchage thread. This thread is threaded through a notch in the stopper, effectively sealing the flacon and adding an elegant, artisanal touch. The perfume’s name appears in fine gold enamel script at the bottom right corner, completing the refined presentation.

According to the 1945 Lancome catalog, the flacon is described in French as “plat, de silhouette presque carrée, avec des cordages en relief en rehaussés d’or fin,” meaning it is flat, almost square in silhouette, adorned with raised ropes highlighted with fine gold. The stopper is massive, elongated, and cut, held in place by a green silk cordonnet, emphasizing the luxury and care involved in the design. The perfume was housed in a square box with a lid decorated by pink and purple Phalaenopsis orchids, set against a background of rosewood finely sanded with gold. Inside, the box was lined with pale almond green satin, further underscoring the elegance and attention to detail typical of Lancôme’s presentation standards of the period.

Further details from later catalogs describe the bottle as a rectangular glass flask decorated with molded reliefs of golden sailor ropes and topped with a trapezoidal molded-pressed stopper. The accompanying carton was square, adorned with blooming orchids set against a wood-grain background, titled accordingly, and lined internally with cream-colored satin. The bottle stands approximately 9.2 centimeters tall and was designed by Georges Delhomme in 1935.

This luxurious Tropiques flacon was available in four sizes: ½ ounce (catalog reference number 5201), 1 ounce (5202), 2 ounces (5203), and 3.5 ounces (5204), allowing collectors and perfume enthusiasts a choice in how they experienced this signature fragrance. The intricate design and symbolic decoration of the bottle make it not only a container for a beloved scent but also a beautiful objet d’art reflecting the exotic and adventurous spirit of Tropiques itself.

Tropiques was also offered in a variation of the deluxe roped bottle that retained the same iconic clear crystal design with the knotted rope motif gilded in gold. However, this version differed notably in its stopper. Instead of the thick, elongated ground glass stopper sealed with gold baudruchage thread seen on the highest-end flacon, this edition featured a smaller, shorter cylindrical stopper. This stopper was fully covered in gold enamel, lending a polished, elegant finish while providing a distinctly different visual impression.

The cylindrical stopper matched the diameter of the bottle’s neck precisely, creating a harmonious and balanced silhouette that complemented the overall refined aesthetic of the bottle. This design choice maintained the luxurious feel of the presentation but allowed for a more cost-effective production, positioning this bottle as a less expensive alternative to the deluxe edition. Despite this simplification, the bottle preserved the signature rope motif and gold detailing that echoed the perfume’s maritime and exotic inspirations, ensuring the packaging remained visually impressive and true to the spirit of Tropiques.

Etoile Flacon:

Tropiques was presented in the elegant Flacon Étoile, a creation by Lancôme Parfumeur in collaboration with designer Jean Sala, issued in a limited edition in 1942. This bottle exemplifies Lancôme’s dedication to artistry and fine craftsmanship. Its body, formed from molded blown glass, is paired with a pressed molded glass stopper. The clear glass is finely detailed, with the underside marked in relief with “LANCÔME France,” serving as a discreet yet unmistakable mark of authenticity.

The name Étoile, meaning “star” in French, reflects the bottle’s distinctive scalloped silhouette with eight pronounced points. This star-like form captures and refracts light, producing a subtle interplay of brilliance and shadow across its faceted surfaces. The matching stopper repeats the eight-point scalloped design exactly, creating a seamless unity between bottle and closure, as though the two were conceived as a single, harmonious form. The result is a refined and balanced presentation, where every detail is meticulously aligned to enhance its beauty.

Equally exquisite, the original case—designed by Georges Delhomme—drew inspiration from seventeenth-century Florentine bookbinding. Covered in richly printed polychrome paper imitating antique mosaic bindings and adorned with a delicate Cupid motif, the presentation box elevated the experience of unveiling the perfume into a ritual of romance and luxury. Measuring 12.5 cm in height, with its case sized at 4.5 × 17 × 12.8 cm, the Flacon Étoile conveyed both substance and elegance. Used for several Lancôme perfumes, it remains a testament to the brand’s fusion of function, beauty, and timeless sophistication.

Flacon Veloutes:

Tropiques was presented in the Flacon Veloutes, part of Lancôme’s 1942 Édition Grand-Luxe, an exquisite example of mid-20th-century French perfumery design that masterfully combined elegance with artistry. Designed by Jean Sala, the flacon is crafted from pressed, frosted colorless glass, molded into a sleek rectangular form with a distinctly cubic silhouette. Its body is adorned on two opposing faces with an intricate relief of four graceful spirals, or volutes, adding a dynamic yet refined decorative element. This motif is echoed in the flat disc-shaped stopper, which bears the same swirling design, creating a harmonious unity between bottle and closure. The flacon sports a gold pampille label, a delicate hanging accent that underscores its prestige.

The presentation was further elevated by a case designed by Hadrien Leduc, covered in richly printed polychrome paper illustrated with tropical flowers and hummingbirds, and set upon a base of ivory-colored galalith (or Pollopas plastic), a detail that enhances its sophistication. Standing 12.5 cm tall, the Flacon Veloutes was used for several Lancôme perfumes of the early 1940s—including Bocages, Flèches, Cuir, Tropiques, Conquête, Tendres Nuits, Peut-Être, Kypre, and Marrakech—reflecting the brand’s dedication to pairing exceptional fragrance compositions with packaging of equal refinement and beauty.

Standard Bottles:

Borne Carrée (Jasmine Stopper):

Tropiques was presented in the house’s very first standard perfume bottle, the Borne Carrée—now commonly known as the Flacon Jasmin—a refined design introduced at the brand’s launch in 1934. Created by Georges Delhomme, Lancôme’s first artistic director, this flacon exemplifies timeless elegance with its cut and polished colorless crystal, square flat body softened by gentle curves and rounded edges, and a clear glass stopper intricately molded with jasmine blossoms—a symbol of beauty and refinement. Often mistaken for Lalique’s work, these stoppers were Delhomme’s original creation, produced mainly by Verreries Le Bresle. The understated yet luxurious Flacon Jasmin became Lancôme’s signature bottle from the 1930s through the 1960s, housing fragrances like Kypre, Tendres Nuits, and Magie. Available in multiple sizes and two main shapes—a standard square and a rarer tall, narrow form—it set the foundation for later iconic bottles such as the Pagode and the Flacon Classique, reflecting Lancôme’s enduring commitment to elegant, harmonious design.

The flacon was available in several sizes—2 oz (4"), 1 oz (3.5"), 0.5 oz (3"), and 0.25 oz (2.75")—to accommodate different price points and gifting occasions, and it appeared in two main forms: the familiar standard square version and a rarer tall, narrow variant.

"Pagode" Standard Bottle:

Tropiques was also presented in Lancôme’s Pagode flacon, one of the house’s most elegant and enduring designs, used for several of its prestige fragrances, including Magie. Crafted from clear, colorless glass, the Pagode flacon is distinguished by its gently curved silhouette, which subtly softens the rectangular outline and imparts a refined, tactile quality. This curvature, combined with harmonious proportions and softened edges, conveys an understated luxury that contrasts with the stark, angular lines of modernist bottle design. Topped with a concave, rectangular glass stopper that mirrors the gentle curve of the body, the bottle achieves a sleek balance between fluidity and symmetry. Reserved for parfum concentrations, the Pagode flacon was a vessel for Lancôme’s most concentrated and prestigious offerings, transforming the act of fragrance presentation into an art form in its own right.

Bouchon Vannerie Standard Bottle:

Tropiques was also presented in Lancôme’s Bouchon Vannerie standard flacon, a 1940s design that blends refined elegance with a touch of artisanal charm. Its most distinctive feature is the frosted glass stopper, molded in relief with an intricate basketweave pattern that captures the look and feel of handwoven wicker. This tactile detail not only provided visual interest but also evoked the traditions of French craftsmanship, where artistry lies as much in texture as in form. The clear glass body offered a simple, graceful counterpoint to the ornate stopper, allowing the golden hue of the perfume to enhance the overall presentation. Discreetly embossed “Lancôme France” on the base, the flacon carried an air of authenticity and understated prestige, marking it as the work of one of France’s most celebrated perfume houses.

Purse Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

When Tropiques debuted in 1935 as part of Lancôme’s inaugural collection of five perfumes, it was described in Paris-Alger as “exhaled in surprises, like a warm symphony in which the brilliance of the brass surprises.” From its birth, it was meant to be a fragrance of contrasts — at once expansive and opulent, yet alive with sparkling high notes. In a lineup that included the deep chypre Kypre, the fruit-and-lavender kissed Tendres Nuits, the lighthearted floral Bocages, and the refined aldehydic Conquête, Tropiques stood out for its warmth, spice, and evocative exoticism.

By 1941, Le Petit Parisien was calling it “the criterion of elegance,” suggesting that it had become one of the defining scents in the modern art of perfumery. Lancôme’s own 1945 catalog painted an equally rich portrait: a suave but deep, almost intoxicating veil of spices, woods, and aromatics, releasing its full body before revealing high, bright, and distinguished top notes. This dual personality — warmth anchored by freshness — seems to have been a hallmark of the perfume.

The war years interrupted its international reach. Imports of Tropiques and its sister scents to the United States ceased during WWII, returning only in 1946. That year, Mme. Elsi Cramer, representing Lancôme, reminded American women that these were not just “sweet-smelling” luxuries but perfumes forged under wartime scarcity, their formulas protected during the German occupation. She dismissed the common American question of “which scent lasts longest,” insisting instead that perfume should be refreshed with a few drops through the evening to maintain its beauty — a philosophy of perfume as a living, evolving presence.

By 1947, in Ladies’ Home Journal, its atmosphere had taken on a transportive, almost cinematic quality — conjuring the surf, palm-lined shores, and exotic flowers of a faraway coast. By 1950, the description in L’Amour de l’art had intensified, calling it “torrid and heady,” charged with herbs, spices, precious woods, and exotic plants. This imagery suggested a fragrance that married the earthiness of natural botanicals with the sophistication of rare materials, resulting in a scent both luxurious and voluptuous. The description’s appeal to “full-blooded women” hints at its assertive sillage and confident presence — a perfume meant to be noticed.

Decades later, in 2003, Official Sewing and Fashion of Paris recalled founder Armand Petitjean’s personal connection to Tropiques. He imagined a man in a white suit strolling along the harbor of Pernambuco, Brazil, at sunset. Around him, the scent of bananas, molasses, spices, precious woods, rum, leather, and hemp mingled with briny sea air. The scene shifted to the quiet elegance of a residential garden, heavy with rare flowers and a suggestion of honeyed sweetness — the bustling port giving way to the tranquil luxury of tropical shade. The original bottle reflected this maritime inspiration, with its base encircled by ropes and accented in fine gold.

Though the exact date of discontinuation is unknown, Tropiques was still being sold in 1960. Across its history, it retained its essence: a fragrance of warmth, spice, exotic florals, and precious woods — a composition that carried its wearer from cosmopolitan harbors to lush, secluded gardens, all within a single breath.

2006 Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 2006, Lancôme reintroduced the name Tropiques as the first fragrance in its new Collection Voyage line, conceived as a travel retail–exclusive and limited-edition scent. A travel retail exclusive fragrance is a perfume created specifically for sale in duty-free and travel-related retail environments. These fragrances are not typically available in regular department stores or domestic shops, making them unique to travelers. They are designed to appeal to people who are already in a travel mindset, often seeking something special or luxurious to mark their journey.

These perfumes are sold primarily in airport duty-free stores, both in departure and arrival areas, as well as onboard airplanes through in-flight shopping catalogues. They are also found in cruise ship boutiques, at ferry terminals, and in duty-free border shops between countries. In some large travel hubs, they may have dedicated sections for travel-exclusive products.

Brands create these exclusives for several reasons. First, they benefit from a captive audience—travelers passing through airports and cruise ports are often more inclined to browse and purchase, especially when in a relaxed holiday mood. Second, they can take advantage of duty-free pricing, which may be more appealing due to the absence of certain taxes and import duties. Third, travel exclusives offer market exclusivity, giving shoppers the sense they are buying something rare that cannot be found at home.

In addition, many travel retail fragrances are themed around destinations and journeys, enhancing their appeal as a souvenir or gift. They can also serve as a testing ground for new scent concepts, packaging designs, or marketing strategies before a wider release. Lancôme’s Collection Voyage, launched in 2006 with Tropiques as its first entry, followed this approach, using exotic travel-inspired names and designs to attract international travelers seeking a distinctive purchase.

The relaunch of Tropiques marked a significant departure from the lush, spicy floral oriental composition of the 1935 original. Where the first Tropiques conjured visions of exotic nights and dense, fragrant forests, the 2006 interpretation—reformulated by perfumers Laurent Bruyère and Dominique Ropion—was designed as a bright, modern fruity-floral, lighter, more transparent, and attuned to contemporary tastes. The launch was strategically positioned to coincide with the debut of Collection Voyage, a concept in which a new destination-inspired fragrance would be introduced annually—Benghal in 2007, themed around Asia, and Cyclades in 2008, themed around Africa.

Preparation for the release began in February 2006, with the fragrance previewed to the trade at the 2005 TFWA World Exhibition and heavily promoted at BAA’s Press Show. The name Tropiques held deep historical resonance for the brand, as the original fragrance was one of five perfumes created in 1935 by founder Armand Petitjean. These scents—Tendres Nuits, Bocages, Conquête, Kypre, and Tropiques—were unveiled at the opening of the Universal Exhibition in Brussels that June, an event that also marked the birth of the Lancôme brand. The 2006 release aimed to be a contemporary homage to both the fragrance and its original flacon, modern in character yet harmonizing with the house’s classical identity.

Classified as a fruity floral, the 2006 Tropiques opened with sparkling cranberry, raspberry, and kumquat. Its heart featured mango flower, jasmine, and blackberry, while the base rested on warm tonka bean and creamy vanilla. Bergamot added a sunlit freshness to the top notes, evoking the brightness of a tropical morning. The mango flower’s nectar-like exoticism was softened for an airy, wearable feel, while the jasmine was rendered luminous and dewy—maintaining sensuality but without the vintage scent’s dense opulence. The result was an olfactory impression of a fresh, radiant tropical garden, more suggestive of a breezy holiday escape than an immersion in the spice-laden depth of a rainforest.

The presentation reflected this lighter approach. The bottle, made of heavy glass, was decorated with a delicate watercolor-style tropical flower motif, repeated on the textured outer carton. For the advertising campaign, Lancôme enlisted long-time brand ambassador Inès Sastre, whose image complemented the fragrance’s refined yet relaxed aesthetic. Officially launched in March 2006, Tropiques was offered as a 50ml eau de toilette priced at €39. This reinterpretation embodied the early 21st-century shift in perfumery toward sheer textures, gentle sweetness, and luminous freshness—an elegant evolution of a historic Lancôme name.