Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Andiamo by Princess Marcella Borghese c1970

Andiamo by Princess Marcella Borghese, a division of Revlon, debuted in 1970—a moment when the fragrance industry, much like the world around it, was undergoing transformation. The name Andiamo is Italian, translating to “Let’s go!” in English. It is pronounced "AHN-dee-AH-mo." This single word is charged with energy, spontaneity, and a zest for movement. It evokes images of carefree travel through sunlit landscapes, impulsive decisions made with joy, and a desire to experience life fully. For an Italian-born aristocrat like Princess Marcella Borghese, whose brand was steeped in European elegance, the name Andiamo would have felt modern, youthful, and imbued with both personal and cultural meaning.

In 1970, Western culture stood at the edge of a dramatic shift. The optimism and upheaval of the late 1960s had begun to settle into a new era of experimentation and self-expression. The world was moving away from the rigid formality of earlier decades and embracing freedom—political, sexual, and creative. In fashion, the silhouettes became more relaxed, bolder in color and pattern, and influenced by global aesthetics. Maxi skirts, bell bottoms, suede, and bohemian prints became hallmarks of the period. Natural beauty was celebrated, and individuality was emphasized. In perfumery, this shift meant exploring more unconventional, evocative scent profiles.

Women of the early '70s would likely have viewed Andiamo as both a call to action and an invitation to independence. The name alone suggested movement, adventure, and autonomy—resonating with a generation increasingly encouraged to forge their own paths. In scent, Andiamo interpreted this spirit with a refreshing green floral-oriental composition. It opened with sparkling citrus notes and a breath of wild rose, evoking fresh air and open spaces. These bright top notes gave way to a heart of verdant greens and mosses, grounded by ambergris, musk, and soft woods—conveying earthiness and depth. The overall impression was that of walking through a lush, sun-dappled glen—cool, invigorating, and full of promise.

Fragrances of this time began to explore more naturalistic or "outdoor" themes, moving away from heavy aldehydic florals popular in the 1950s and early 60s. Green fragrances like Estée Lauder’s Aliage (1972) and Chanel’s No. 19 (1970) reflect this shift, and Andiamo fit within this broader trend. Yet, its balance of sparkling top notes with the depth of a soft oriental base made it distinctive. It didn’t veer too far into sharpness or powderiness but offered a wearable, modern freshness rooted in a sophisticated Italian aesthetic.

Andiamo, as both a name and a fragrance, captured the transitional energy of the era—forward-looking, yet grounded. It embraced femininity not as fragility, but as vitality and movement. It was a scent for women who weren’t just watching life happen, but stepping boldly into it.


Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Andiamo by Princess Marcella Borghese is classified as a woody green floral oriental fragrance for women. A refreshing modern floral blend of woods, ambergris, with smooth, sparkling citrus, musk, lively wild roses over verdant ferns, mosses and fresh cut greens. The lush, cool green of a woodland glen.

  • Top notes:  aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Amalfi lemon, Sicilian neroli, Persian galbanum, green notes accord
  • Middle notes: Grecian cyclamen, French fern, Provencal lavender, Hungarian clary sage, Zanzibar clove, Ceylon cinnamon, Italian jasmine, wild rose, Manila ylang ylang
  • Base notes:   Indonesian patchouli, Balkans oakmoss, Haitian vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Maltese labdanum, Madagascar vanilla, Siam benzoin, Venezuelan tonka bean, Tonkin musk


Scent Profile:

To experience Andiamo by Princess Marcella Borghese is to step into an enchanted glade at the edge of twilight—a place where nature exhales, and each breath taken draws you deeper into its lush, layered beauty. This is not a quiet fragrance. It opens with a gleam, a shimmer, a burst of modern brightness grounded by classic structure. It’s at once invigorating and composed, Italian in spirit but global in substance.

The top notes rush forward with an exhilarating blend of aldehydes—those sparkling, airy molecules that create a brisk, champagne-like effervescence. They lend brightness and space, lifting the other citrus elements into orbit rather than anchoring them to the ground. The aldehydes create a clean, almost ozonic effect, evoking sunlit air and the feeling of freshly laundered linens fluttering on a line. Just beneath this, a vivid triad of Calabrian bergamot, Amalfi lemon, and Sicilian neroli unfurls. Each comes from southern Italy, but their characters are distinct: the bergamot, grown in the warm coastal groves of Calabria, is tart yet softly floral—never sharp, always refined. The Amalfi lemon is juicier, fruitier, with a candy-bright edge, while the neroli—distilled from bitter orange blossoms in Sicily—is waxy, sweet, and faintly green, adding a tender creaminess to the citrus burst.

Intertwined with these is Persian galbanum, a green resin with an intensely raw, almost unripe profile. It smells of crushed stems and sap, of vegetation at its most primal, and when paired with the green notes accord, the effect is that of walking through a dew-soaked meadow just after rainfall. The synthetic green accord helps shape the sharper edges of galbanum into something more wearable and contemporary, making the greenery feel lush but not overwhelming—like a garden tamed just enough to walk through.

As the top notes fade, a vivid bouquet emerges in the heart. Cyclamen from Greece offers a delicate floralcy, powdery yet aquatic, reminiscent of a flower blooming near a stream. French fern—or fougère—brings that unmistakable cool, slightly metallic green note that lies somewhere between lavender and hay. Provençal lavender, sun-warmed and gently herbal, adds a fragrant lift, while Hungarian clary sage deepens the herbaceous qualities with a musky, wine-like nuance.

From the spice trade routes come exotic touches: Zanzibar clove, spicy and hot, tingling at the edges; and Ceylon cinnamon, warm, slightly sweet, adding an ambered richness. These spices never overpower—they flicker like firelight at the center of a floral-gourmand heart. Italian jasmine brings lush, creamy opulence, counterbalanced by the unbridled charm of wild rose, which smells like roses plucked before they’ve been tamed for a vase—thorny, green, vibrant. Manila ylang ylang adds a tropical undertone with its rich, custardy floral sweetness, softening the sharper green and spicy edges with a touch of sensuality.

The drydown of Andiamo is where its true character settles—rooted, confident, deep. Indonesian patchouli, dark and earthy, is the anchor, but it’s not a dusty patchouli. It’s rounded, refined, tinged with sweetness. Balkan oakmoss contributes that classic chypre touch: leathery, forested, grounding. Haitian vetiver brings coolness and smoke—grassy and flinty, a breeze through dry reeds. Mysore sandalwood, now largely restricted but prized for its warm, creamy, almost milky woodiness, glows softly here—never loud, always elegant.

The ambery core is sophisticated and complex. Ambergris, whether natural or an expertly crafted synthetic reconstruction, imparts a smooth, marine-tinged warmth that lingers like skin kissed by sun. Maltese labdanum, with its resinous, leathery character, weaves through the vanilla and benzoin, giving the base its molten, golden richness. Madagascar vanilla is not sugary—rather, it's dark, slightly smoky, and warm. Siam benzoin brings a balsamic sweetness, almost like resin turned syrup, while Venezuelan tonka bean lends almondy, toasted warmth with creamy undertones. All this is wrapped in a veil of Tonkin musk, likely recreated through modern musks, which provide a long-lasting, velvety softness—skin-like, warm, intimate.

Together, these notes compose a fragrance that truly feels like a journey. Andiamo—“Let’s go”—is not merely a call to travel; it’s an invitation to live richly, to embrace each breath with vitality. It’s a walk through a sun-dappled glen, a dance of herbs, petals, and spices, a balance of light and shadow, movement and memory. It is Italian elegance wrapped in a global soul.

 

Product Line:

The Andiamo product line by Princess Marcella Borghese was an expansive and thoughtfully curated fragrance wardrobe, designed to immerse the wearer in its distinctive woody green floral-oriental character at every stage of their beauty ritual. Each item offered a different expression of the fragrance, with varying concentrations, textures, and intended uses, from the most potent parfum to delicate bath indulgences. Here's a detailed look at the individual products and how each differed in strength, experience, and purpose:


Parfum (1 oz and 1/2 oz)

The Parfum—also known as extrait de parfum—is the most concentrated and luxurious form in the line. Offered in 1 oz and 1/2 oz sizes, this format contains the highest percentage of aromatic compounds, typically around 20–30%. The richness of the parfum allows for a more intimate and long-lasting wear; just a drop warms on the skin and evolves slowly over time. Here, the opulent heart of wild rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, and spices lingers longest, revealing the most nuanced facets of the base—ambergris, sandalwood, labdanum, and musk. This is the most sensual and velvety presentation of Andiamo, perfect for special occasions or evening wear.


Profumo Mist (1 oz and 1/4 oz)

The Profumo Mist is a lighter, sprayable version of the parfum. Though still quite concentrated, it has a more diffusive, airy quality, offering the drama and complexity of the extrait but in a form suitable for more frequent application. The smaller 1/4 oz version was ideal for travel or on-the-go touch-ups, while the 1 oz size offered a more generous application. The mist format slightly softens the green and spicy facets, allowing the floral elements to radiate more fully.


Perfume Oil (1 oz)

The Perfume Oil provided another intimate and enduring way to wear Andiamo. Without the use of alcohol, perfume oils are absorbed directly into the skin, releasing scent more slowly and with great depth. This format often emphasizes the base and heart notes, giving the amber, patchouli, sandalwood, and vanilla a more velvety, resinous richness. The citrus top notes would be less prominent here, allowing the earthier, balsamic components to shine. This version is especially well-suited to dry or sensitive skin.


Acqua di Profumo (3.8 oz Aerosol Spray, 2 oz Natural Spray Mist, and 5/16 oz Purse Spray)

The Acqua di Profumo formats offered an eau de parfum-like concentration, though the name suggests a more poetic Italian phrasing of “perfumed water.” These versions were designed for daily use, balancing longevity with freshness. The 3.8 oz aerosol spray provided a wide, elegant mist, perfect for all-over application. The 2 oz natural spray mist allowed for a more controlled, refined spritz. The 5/16 oz purse spray was a compact version intended for discreet refreshment, housed in a sleek, portable format. In all, these showcased the full structure of the fragrance with particular brightness in the top and heart, making them ideal for daytime wear.


Cologne (4 oz Spray and 17 oz Splash)

The Cologne formats were the lightest among the fragrance offerings, generally containing 3–5% perfume oil. These were meant for generous application, refreshing the skin and senses rather than lingering with depth. The 4 oz spray cologne provided a quick, invigorating burst—bright with citrus and green notes—while the 17 oz splash invited a liberal post-bath or post-shower ritual. The cologne highlighted Andiamo’s sparkling top notes and grassy green accord, ideal for warm weather or layering with other products in the range.


Silken Milk Bath (8 oz, 16 oz, and 32 oz)

The Silken Milk Bath—a lime-colored, luxuriously creamy bath product—infused the bathing ritual with fragrance and skin-softening emollients. Available in three generous sizes, this was meant to create an immersive scent experience. While the perfume oil content would have been lower than in the body products, the steam and warmth of the bath would gently release the green florals and soft woody notes. The name “silken” evokes its texture—creamy, nourishing, and elegant.


Satina Balm (3 oz)

This lotion-like balm was likely a richly textured body treatment, designed to seal in moisture while leaving a light veil of Andiamo’s fragrance on the skin. Satiny and elegant, this balm would have accentuated the warmer, creamy base notes—sandalwood, vanilla, and ambergris—making it an ideal layering product to extend the perfume's wear.


After Bath Lotion (9 oz)

Lighter than the Satina Balm, the After Bath Lotion was formulated for quick absorption, leaving a faint trail of scent and soft, conditioned skin. The lotion format would emphasize Andiamo’s fresher, greener qualities—perfect for daytime layering.


Dusting Powder (5 oz)

The Dusting Powder was a classic post-bath indulgence. This talc-based product left the skin softly fragranced and dry to the touch. The powder format softened the fragrance, rendering Andiamo as a whisper of florals and mosses. It provided a nostalgic elegance, reminiscent of boudoir rituals and fine linens.


Shower Gel and Scented Soap

These daily-use cleansing products offered a gentler way to wear Andiamo. While not as long-lasting as the other forms, they allowed the wearer to begin or end their day wrapped in the citrusy, green heart of the scent. The shower gel would lather into a fragrant foam, while the bar soap provided a more tactile, traditional bathing experience. Both enhanced the routine with freshness and refinement.


Solid Perfume (5.5g Compact and 5g Coin Locket)

The Solid Perfume formats offered a discreet and travel-friendly way to wear Andiamo. The gold-tone compact, more substantial and decorative, was likely designed for the vanity table, while the coin locket could be worn or carried on the go. The waxy base would hold the fragrance close to the skin, emphasizing the warmth of the wearer and extending the longevity of the scent—especially the soft floral and musky base.

Altogether, the Andiamo line represented a fully immersive scent world. Each product, whether mist or milk bath, expressed the same composition in unique ways—some sparkling and bright, others velvety and sensual. Worn alone or layered, they invited women to weave fragrance into every aspect of their lives, from the subtle pleasure of a morning bath to the intimate final touch before evening.


Fate of the Fragrance:

Andiamo by Princess Marcella Borghese was launched in 1970, during a decade marked by liberation, individuality, and a shift in women's roles and self-expression. The name, Andiamo—Italian for "Let's go!"—perfectly captured the spirit of the era. It evoked a sense of movement, spontaneity, and energy—a fragrance that urged the wearer forward, confidently and stylishly. Created as a woody green floral oriental, Andiamo stood out as a refreshing yet sensual blend that mirrored the dynamic, sometimes contradictory spirit of the 1970s woman—natural yet sophisticated, modern yet grounded in classic elegance.

Although its exact discontinuation date is unknown, Andiamo remained available through official channels and department stores well into the early 1990s. Advertisements and product listings show that it was still being sold in 1992, over two decades after its launch. This longevity suggests a steady following—perhaps by women who had adopted it as a signature scent or who found its green, floral, and woody structure timeless in appeal. While newer trends in perfumery emerged in the 1980s and early ’90s—favoring powerhouse florals and fresh aquatics—Andiamo continued to offer a more nuanced, layered experience.

Its eventual discontinuation may have been part of broader changes within the Borghese brand portfolio as ownership and product strategies evolved. Today, Andiamo remains a cherished memory for those who wore it, and a rare treasure on the secondary market for vintage perfume collectors.

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