Vacarme by Madeleine de Rauch (1966)

Launched in 1966 and introduced to the U.S. market by 1967, Vacarme is a name that immediately signals audacity and presence. The word “vacarme” is French, pronounced "vah-KARM", and translates to uproar, clamor, or racket. It evokes sound, movement, and intensity—an expressive counterpoint to the hushed romanticism often associated with mid-century perfumery. Madeleine de Rauch’s choice of such a charged word suggests confidence and modernity: a fragrance meant not to whisper, but to announce itself. (It is sometimes mistakenly listed online as Macramé, a misunderstanding by sellers unfamiliar with the French term.)

The imagery behind Vacarme is one of lively salons, animated conversations, and the low hum of urban sophistication. Rather than chaos, the name implies controlled brilliance—energy refined by elegance. Emotionally, it evokes warmth, sensuality, and magnetism, suggesting a woman who commands attention effortlessly. In scent, “Vacarme” translates as a rich, expressive composition that feels alive on the skin, unfolding with rhythm and depth rather than restraint.

Released in the mid-1960s, Vacarme emerged during a period of cultural and aesthetic transition. The era was marked by the rise of modern femininity—women embracing independence, social freedom, and personal expression. Fashion was moving toward sleek silhouettes, bold lines, and expressive materials, while perfumery explored aldehydes, green notes, and animalic accents with renewed confidence. This was the age of sophisticated evenings, cocktail culture, and cosmopolitan glamour, and Vacarme fit naturally into that world.

Classified as a warm green woody floral fragrance, Vacarme is distinguished by its pronounced jasmine and rose facets, softened and deepened by aldehydic sparkle, woody structure, and subtle animalic warmth. Often described as a “sultry scent,” it balances elegance with sensuality, embodying the modern woman of the 20th century—graceful yet alluring, composed yet expressive. Intended for salons, cocktail hours, and intimate evening encounters, it was designed to enhance a woman’s presence and the elegance of her gestures.

In the context of its time, Vacarme aligned with the broader trends of rich florals and aldehydic sophistication, yet its bold name and expressive warmth set it apart. It did not follow fashion passively; instead, it interpreted modernity with personality and confidence, making it both emblematic of its era and distinct within it.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Vacarme is classified as a warm green woody floral fragrance for women with a pronounced jasmine and rose facet. It was said to be a "sultry scent." "Vacarme is a wild new fragrance that unleashes the femininity of the women who dares to be feline. It breathes a suggestion of intoxicating twilights and cool new dawns, with a hint of jungle power."

• Top notes: aldehydes, green notes, bergamot, hyacinth, galbanum, violet
• Middle notes: jasmine, honeysuckle, Oriental rose, lily of the valley, tuberose, Florentine iris
• Base notes: labdanum, musk, sandalwood, cedar, tonka bean, vanilla, patchouli, oakmoss, ambergris, civet, vetiver

Scent Profile:

Vacarme opens with a striking, almost electric brightness, as if the air itself has been charged. The aldehydes lift immediately from the skin with a silvery sparkle—clean, airy, and slightly soapy—creating that unmistakable mid-century sense of elegance and polish. They amplify the natural materials that follow, making every note feel more vivid. Green notes surge next, crisp and verdant, evoking crushed stems and leaves snapped between the fingers. Galbanum, prized for its resinous intensity and often sourced from Iran and the Middle East, brings a sharp, bitter-green snap that feels almost feral, setting the “jungle power” mood suggested by the fragrance’s mythos. Bergamot adds a flash of citrus light—its Calabrian origin traditionally valued for its refined balance of freshness and softness—while hyacinth and violet introduce a cool, dewy floral greenness, powdery yet moist, like petals at dawn.

As Vacarme unfolds, the heart blooms voluptuously and without restraint. Jasmine—rich, indolic, and heady—takes center stage, its intoxicating warmth suggesting warm skin at twilight. Classic jasmine materials, often reinforced by jasmine aroma molecules, enhance its narcotic depth while ensuring diffusion and longevity. Honeysuckle adds a honeyed, nectar-like sweetness, while lily of the valley brings a green, bell-flower freshness typically recreated through aroma chemicals that give clarity and lift to the bouquet. The Oriental rose accord deepens the composition, darker and more sensual than a fresh rose, conjuring velvety petals and subtle spice. Tuberose, creamy and hypnotic, adds an almost tropical lushness, while Florentine iris—renowned for its precious, powdery elegance derived from aged orris rhizomes—wraps the florals in a cool, suede-like softness that tempers their intensity.

The base of Vacarme is where its sultry reputation fully reveals itself. Labdanum, with its resinous, leathery warmth, anchors the fragrance in sensuality, echoing the balsamic richness of ancient resins. Sandalwood—traditionally Mysore or styled after it—adds a smooth, milky woodiness that feels intimate and enveloping, while cedar contributes dry, pencil-shaving clarity. Tonka bean introduces coumarin’s almond-like sweetness, softly vanillic and slightly hay-like, blending seamlessly with true vanilla’s comforting warmth. Patchouli lends earthy depth, its dark, slightly camphorous character grounding the florals, while oakmoss—once a cornerstone of classic perfumery—adds a damp, forest-floor richness that enhances the green facets from the opening.

Animalic notes give Vacarme its feline edge. Musk provides warmth and skin-like softness, while ambergris adds a salty, ambery glow that enhances diffusion and longevity. Civet, used with restraint, contributes a musky, slightly dirty sensuality that feels alive and provocative rather than overt. Vetiver, with its smoky, rooty dryness, threads through the base, lending structure and refinement. Together, these elements create a fragrance that breathes with rhythm—lush yet controlled, wild yet elegant. Vacarme feels like intoxicating dusk melting into cool dawn: a confident, sultry perfume that amplifies femininity with power, warmth, and an unmistakable sense of presence.

Product Line:

By the early 1970s, Vacarme de Rauch was available in various concentrations including Parfum and Eau de Toilette.

The packaging and formats are identical for the three perfumes: Miss de Rauch, Belle de Rauch and Vacarme. 

• Parfum: Glass cabochon stoppers in 0.25 oz, 0.5 oz, 1 oz, 2 oz, and 4 oz; purse atomizer (0.25 oz).

This shows a consistent presentation style across the range, with slight variations in atomizer availability depending on the perfume.

Parfum:

• 1/4 oz purse atomizer spray
• 1/4 oz splash
• 1/2 oz splash
• 1 oz splash
• 2 oz splash
• 4 oz splash

Eau de Toilette :

• 1 oz splash
• 2 oz splash
• 4 oz splash
• 8 oz splash
• 16 oz splash

Eau de Parfum:

• 2 oz Spray Mist

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued sometime in the 1980s.