Fashion de Leonard (1970)

Fashion de Leonard, launched in 1970, embodies the spirit of haute couture translated into fragrance. The name “Fashion de Leonard” immediately conjures images of elegance, style, and sophistication, with “Fashion” signaling modernity and chic Parisian flair, and “Leonard” rooting the scent in the prestige of the fashion house itself. Pronounced simply as “Fash-un de Leh-oh-nard”, the title evokes refined glamour, the poise of a woman stepping out in impeccably tailored attire, and the confidence of someone fully attuned to contemporary style. In the context of the early 1970s, a period marked by bold experimentation in fashion and fragrance, the name perfectly aligned with women seeking both classic sophistication and a hint of daring individuality.

The fragrance itself, created by master perfumer Jeannine Mongin, is a crisp aldehydic floral chypre that opens with a sparkling, almost effervescent aldehydic top, layered with citrusy bergamot that immediately suggests freshness, energy, and an air of refinement. A subtle hint of spice from cardamom and coriander adds warmth and complexity, teasing the senses before the floral heart unfolds. Here, Grasse jasmine, Bulgarian and Moroccan roses, iris, lily of the valley, and Bambao ylang-ylang create a lush, elegant bouquet, blending soft powdery textures with a slightly exotic, sun-drenched warmth. Each floral ingredient brings its own nuance: Bulgarian rose offers a rich, deep, slightly earthy complexity, while Moroccan rose shines brighter, fresher, and more dewy. Grasse jasmine contributes its singularly indolic, heady yet feminine aroma, and iris adds powdery elegance that softens the intensity of the florals. The combination is sophisticated, balanced, and unmistakably luxurious.

As the fragrance settles, it reveals a deeply sensual and grounded base, composed of precious woods and animalic notes that add both warmth and longevity. Java vetiver and Mysore sandalwood bring creamy, velvety woodiness, while Lebanese cedar introduces dry, aromatic strength. Yugoslavian oakmoss and Singapore patchouli provide an earthy, slightly green underpinning that contrasts beautifully with the opulent florals. Animalic ingredients such as civet, castoreum, musk, and ambergris create an enveloping warmth and subtle sensuality, blending with smoky touches of incense to evoke mystery and allure. The fragrance is rounded off with 28 secret notes, which add depth, complexity, and a signature personality, ensuring that Fashion de Leonard feels rich, multi-layered, and uniquely memorable.

In essence, Fashion de Leonard is a statement of femininity and elegance, perfectly reflecting the sophisticated fashion sensibilities of the 1970s. It manages to be both delicate and voluptuous, combining crisp, airy aldehydes with opulent floral richness and a luxurious woody-animalic base. For women of the period, it would have represented not only style but also individuality and refinement—a scent that could accompany them from the boardroom to an evening soiree, affirming their elegance and presence. In comparison to other fragrances of the time, Fashion de Leonard stood out for its complexity, blending classic chypre structure with a daringly rich floral-animalic accord that celebrated femininity in all its facets.

Fragrance Composition:

The original formula is classified as a crisp aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh aldehydic top, followed by an elegant floral heart, resting on a feminine, sensual, powdery base. Fashion by Leonard is a complex, spicy, woody, and animalic fragrance. It is composed of Grasse jasmine, Bulgarian and Moroccan roses, iris, lily of the valley, Bambao ylang-ylang, bergamot, Java vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, Lebanese cedar, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Singapore patchouli, civet, castoreum, musk, ambergris, cardamom, coriander, incense, and 28 other secret notes. The result is a delicate yet voluptuous animalic fragrance, with soft, sophisticated accents that celebrate femininity and evoke pleasure.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, orange blossom, lily of the valley
• Middle notes: cardamom, coriander, white lilac, carnation, Bambao ylang ylang, orris, Grasse jasmine, Moroccan may rose, Bulgarian rose
• Base notes: civet, castoreum, Yugoslavia oakmoss, melilot, musk, benzoin, Java vetiver, Singapore patchouli, vanilla, Lebanon cedar, incense, ambergris and Mysore sandalwood

Scent Profile:

Fashion de Leonard is a masterful exploration of elegance and complexity, a crisp aldehydic floral chypre that opens with a bright, effervescent top. The aldehydes immediately lend a sparkling, almost airy quality, reminiscent of sunlit silk and freshly pressed couture, creating an impression of freshness and refinement. Layered into this are the citrus nuances of bergamot from Calabria, Italy, known for its sweet, slightly bitter aroma that is more nuanced than generic bergamot, and lemon, which contributes its crisp, tart brightness, and orange blossom, imparting delicate floral sweetness with a luminous, almost dewy facet. Lily of the valley adds a gentle green freshness, evoking springtime gardens, its soft, bell-like aroma enhancing the top’s lightness and airy character.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals a sumptuous, intricate floral bouquet. Cardamom and coriander introduce a subtle spiciness that warms the florals without overwhelming them, offering a nuanced depth. The heart blooms with white lilac, its powdery yet green floral facets harmonizing beautifully with carnation, which lends a soft, clove-like warmth. Bambao ylang-ylang contributes its creamy, tropical sweetness, balancing the heart with an exotic richness. Orris root adds a distinct powdery, violet-like elegance, creating a soft, velvety texture, while Grasse jasmine exudes its indolic, heady floral richness, pairing exquisitely with the rosy accents of Moroccan may rose, brighter and more radiant, and Bulgarian rose, deeper and more opulent, for a multi-layered, sophisticated bouquet.

The base is a luxurious, warm tapestry of woods, resins, and animalics that provides depth, sensuality, and longevity. Civet and castoreum lend subtle animalic complexity, giving the fragrance a quiet, magnetic allure without overpowering the florals. Yugoslavian oakmoss contributes its earthy, slightly green depth, while melilot introduces a soft, honeyed warmth. Musk enhances the animalic facets, blending with benzoin’s balsamic sweetness. Precious woods such as Java vetiver—with its smoky, earthy, and slightly leathery aroma—Mysore sandalwood, creamy and milky, and Lebanon cedar, aromatic and dry, create a grounded, elegant base. Exotic touches of Singapore patchouli lend a sophisticated earthiness, while vanilla smooths the composition, softening the sharpness of spices and woods. Finally, ambergris and incense introduce a luminous, ambery warmth and a hint of mystical, smoky resonance, rounding out the fragrance with a sensual, enduring trail.

The result is a delicate yet voluptuous animalic floral chypre, both sophisticated and deeply feminine. Each ingredient is layered to reveal facets of elegance, sensuality, and refinement—from the sparkling aldehydes to the rich floral heart and the warm, woody, resinous base—making Fashion de Leonard a perfume that embodies both the glamour of haute couture and the intimate allure of timeless femininity.

Product Line:

Presented in a bottle designed by Pierre Dinand in 1970. The bottle was manufactured by Pochet et du Courval.

In 1972/1973, Fashion de Leonard was available in the following forms: 

• Parfum Presentations: Multi-faceted, rough-cut glass bottle with a large silver cap and a tortoiseshell-patterned label with silver lettering (1 oz to 2 oz); Atomizer Spray (0.25 oz and 1 oz)
• Related Products: Eau de Toilette splash (4 oz to 16 oz); Eau de Toilette spray
• Ancillary Products: Beauty Soap (140g).

In 1977/1978, Fashion by Leonard was available in the following formats:

• Parfum Presentations: Classic presentation bottle, multi-faceted glass bottle, label enhanced with purple lacquer and pure white (from 0.25 oz to 2 oz); Sculpted glass atomizer with a square tortoiseshell cap, encircled in silver. For the purse and vanity.
• Related Products: Refillable Parfum deToilette atomizer (3 oz); Eau de Toilette classic presentation bottle (from 4 oz to 16 oz); Eau de Toilette atomizer (3 oz)
• Ancillary Products: Soap in a tortoiseshell box or a box of three (140g); Deodorant (5 oz)

In 1984/1985, Fashion was available in the following formats:

• Parfum Presentations: Presentation luxe (from 0.25 oz, 0.5 oz, 1 oz); Refillable bag spray (1/3 oz)
• Ancillary Products: Scented soap

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

1993 Reformulation & Relaunch:

Fashion de Leonard was reformulated by Jacques Fraysse and relaunched in 1993 in association with Classic Fragrances, Inc.

It is classified as a sweet floral oriental fragrance for women with fruity notes.

• Top notes: plum, green notes, tarragon, violet, raspberry, peach, bergamot, neroli and lemon
• Middle notes: lilac, carnation, tuberose, orris, orchid, orange blossom, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose
• Base notes: sandalwood, tonka bean, ambergris, patchouli, musk, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver and cedar

Scent Profile:

Fashion de Leonard, in its 1993 reformulation by Jacques Fraysse, opens with a dazzling, multilayered top that immediately enchants the senses. The plum note bursts forth with a rich, juicy sweetness that is at once ripe and slightly tart, evoking the sensual warmth of summer orchards. This is complemented by crisp green notes and the tender freshness of violet leaves, which add a dewy, almost sparkling brightness that balances the fruitiness. 

Tarragon contributes a subtle, herbal sharpness, reminiscent of sun-warmed Mediterranean gardens, while raspberry and peach lend a velvety softness, their sweet nuances mingling harmoniously with the top’s citrus accents. Bergamot from Calabria introduces a sparkling, bitter-sweet brightness that lifts the composition, while neroli, sourced from Tunisian orange blossoms, radiates a honeyed, delicate floral facet. Finally, lemon adds a crisp, sun-kissed acidity, creating a vibrant, airy opening that feels both elegant and lively.

The heart of the fragrance unfolds as a sumptuous floral bouquet, rich in both texture and emotion. Lilac evokes springtime freshness with its green-tinged floral scent, while carnation offers a warm, clove-like spiciness that tingles on the skin. Tuberose imparts its heady, creamy richness, enveloping the wearer in a luxurious, exotic aura, while orris (derived from the precious root of Florentine iris) introduces a soft, powdery, violet-like elegance that deepens the sophistication of the bouquet. 

Orchid contributes a delicate, slightly soapy sweetness, and orange blossom (likely from Moroccan or Tunisian groves) adds a radiant, sparkling floral warmth. Jasmine, the star of the floral heart, exudes an indolic, intoxicating richness that is both seductive and comforting. The tropical creaminess of ylang-ylang from the Philippines, the green dewy freshness of lily-of-the-valley, and the velvety, romantic nuance of rose—sourced from Bulgaria and Morocco—round out the heart, creating a multi-dimensional floral ensemble that is both elegant and captivating.

As the fragrance settles, the base emerges with a warm, sensual embrace. Sandalwood, particularly from Mysore, India, provides a creamy, milky woodiness that is both grounding and luxurious. Tonka bean adds a sweet, nutty vanilla-like warmth, harmonizing beautifully with the rich balsamic facets of benzoin. Ambergris lends a subtle marine-animalic depth, enhancing the fragrance’s sensuality, while patchouli imparts a dry, earthy resonance that adds sophistication. 

Musk softens and enfolds the composition, creating a skin-like intimacy, while vanilla enhances the gourmand sweetness without overpowering the florals. The earthy smokiness of vetiver and the aromatic clarity of cedar provide structure and longevity, ensuring the fragrance lingers gracefully on the skin. The resulting sillage is a delicate yet voluptuous balance of fruity freshness, lush florals, and warm oriental woods—a modern, feminine fragrance that is at once approachable, elegant, and irresistibly sensual.

This reformulation maintains the charm and sophistication of the original Fashion de Leonard while giving it a brighter, sweeter, and more Oriental character suitable for the 1990s woman—confident, sensual, and endlessly chic.