Breathless by Charbert c1933

Breathless by Charbert tells a story not only through its name but also through its place in history. Though trademarked as early as 1933, the fragrance was not marketed until 1942, when it was introduced with alluring advertisements that promised romance, memory, and dreamlike allure: “a perfume to linger in the memory… capturing a breathless moment in unforgettable fragrance.” The name Breathless was carefully chosen—a word that suggests something so overwhelming, so emotionally or sensorially powerful, that it leaves one literally without breath. It evokes passion, desire, suspense, and even awe—the fleeting moments when one is swept away by love or beauty. Such a word would instantly connect with women of the time, conjuring images of secret embraces, moonlit walks, and stolen wartime romances.

The perfume’s official launch in 1942 places it squarely in the midst of World War II, a period often described as one of austerity but also one of escapism. Daily life was shadowed by rationing, loss, and uncertainty, yet women still longed for beauty, glamour, and indulgence in small luxuries. Fashion reflected this duality—silhouettes were tailored and practical, but adorned with small flourishes of femininity. In perfumery, bold orientals and spicy florals remained popular, offering a sense of richness and fantasy in contrast to the harshness of wartime reality. In this context, Breathless would have been interpreted as a romantic escape, a way for women to carry with them an aura of mystery and sensuality despite the world around them.

Interpreted in scent, Breathless lived up to its name. Classified as a floral–oriental–woody perfume, it opened with the sparkle of citrus—bright, aldehydic notes that gave immediate lift and radiance. This transitioned into a lush heart of orange blossom, white lilies, rose, and syringa, infused with warm spices. The base revealed its true character: mossy green woods, musky undertones, and a resinous amber that lent strength, sensuality, and staying power. The overall effect was strong, long-lasting, and deeply memorable—yet lighter and less imposing than Dana’s Tabu, the reigning oriental of the time.

In the competitive perfume market of the 1940s, Breathless fit within the prevailing trend of bold orientals but carved a subtle niche of its own. It was neither as daringly heavy as Tabu nor as airy as the powdery aldehydics of the interwar years. Instead, it balanced opulence with restraint, offering an alternative for women who wanted a fragrance that was still dramatic, yet more wearable and romantic. For its audience, Breathless would have embodied the very essence of longing and desire—a perfume to accompany whispered promises, to survive in memory, and to make every fleeting, passionate moment unforgettable.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Breathless by Charbert  is classified as a floral oriental woody fragrance for women. Similar to Tabu, but lighter with top notes of citrus, followed by a sweetened orange blossom, white lilies, roses, syringa and spice heart, resting on a powdery, woodsy amber base. It is a woodsy, mossy, greenwoods smell laced through with oriental spiciness, very strong and lasting.

• Top notes: aldehyde C-9, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian neroli, nerol, Paraguayan petitgrain, Guinea orange, Amalfi lemon, citral, citronellol, Macedonian anise, Hungarian clary sage, Spanish tarragon, Russian coriander, Comoros basil, linalool, linalyl acetate
• Middle notes: Moroccan orange blossom absolute, syringa, methyl naphthyl ketone, Grasse jasmine absolute, Turkish rose absolute, Bourbon geranium, geraniol, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellal, Tuscan violet leaf, methyl ionone, Florentine orris, French carnation, Szechuan cinnamon, benzyl cinnamate, Zanzibar clove oil, eugenol, isoeugenol, Chinese star anise, methyl anthranilate
  Base notes: benzyl salicylate, isoamyl salicylate, Persian galbanum, Haitian vetiver, Tyrolean oakmoss, Penang patchouli, Atlas cedar, Brazilian rosewood, Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, Tonkin musk, Abyssinian civet, Canadian castoreum, ambergris, Mexican vanilla, Siam benzoin, Maltese labdanum, Spanish cistus absolute, Somali opoponax, Peru balsam, Colombian tolu balsam

 

Scent Profile:

Smelling Breathless by Charbert is like being taken by the hand and led through an unfolding story—one that begins in a burst of brightness, dips into lush sensuality, and finally settles into a shadowy warmth that lingers on the skin for hours. Every material—whether natural or synthetic—is placed deliberately, enhancing and shaping the perfume so it lives up to its name: unforgettable, insistent, and romantic.

The opening feels like the sudden intake of a cool breath. A shimmer of aldehyde C-9 rises first—waxy, effervescent, with a brightness that mimics freshly scrubbed skin and sunlight caught on polished glass. Then comes a cascade of citrus: the Calabrian bergamot, delicate and floral with a soft tea-like nuance, quite different from sharper varieties grown elsewhere; Sicilian neroli, with its honeyed white-petal greenness; and the vibrant, juicy pulp of Guinea orange and Amalfi lemon, both Mediterranean and dazzling, kissed with salt air and warmth. Their liveliness is sharpened by citral, a lemony aroma chemical that brings out their sparkle, while nerol and citronellol add a sweeter, rosier freshness.

Threaded among the citrus is the green, slightly bitter lift of Paraguayan petitgrain, reminding one of crushed leaves, and the aromatic shadows of herbs: Macedonian anise, with its cool licorice twang; Hungarian clary sage, earthy and slightly ambered; Spanish tarragon, with its peppery-green snap; and Comoros basil, resinous and slightly balsamic. Spices add breath-like warmth: Russian coriander’s lemony spice and a veil of linalool and linalyl acetate, smooth, lavender-like molecules that round out the opening. The effect is radiant and sparkling, but already complex—bright fruit glints, green shadows, and aromatic spice dancing together.

As the perfume warms, the heart unfolds into a lush, narcotic bouquet. Moroccan orange blossom absolute dominates at first—intense, honeyed, and slightly animalic—enriched by syringa, whose lilac-like fragrance brings a creamy, springlike softness. Grasse jasmine absolute is next: opulent, indolic, grown in the famed fields of Provence, carrying a balance of fruitiness and skin-like sensuality that no other region produces quite the same. It intertwines with the liquid velvet of Turkish rose absolute, lush and full-bodied, and the crisp green lift of Bourbon geranium, brightened by its primary molecule, geraniol, which pulls forward rose’s fresher facets. 

Adding exotic warmth is Nossi-Bé ylang ylang from Madagascar, intensely creamy and spicy-floral, tempered by the innocence of lily of the valley, built largely with hydroxycitronellal, a synthetic that imparts a dewy, lily-like freshness. Tuscan violet leaf brings a powdery, leafy-cool tone, supported by methyl ionone and Florentine orris—powdery, violet-rooted, and buttery, grounding the florals with a soft haze. Around them swirls spice: French carnation tinged with eugenol and isoeugenol, clove-like and peppery; real Zanzibar clove oil, warm and biting; Szechuan cinnamon, hot and dry; and a whisper of Chinese star anise. The floral heart is luminous yet heady, with methyl anthranilate lending a grape-tinged sweetness that deepens the jasmine and orange blossom. Together, the heart feels like a satin gown embroidered with flowers and spices—radiant, intoxicating, and a touch dangerous.

The base is where Breathless settles into its memory-making shadows. Benzyl salicylate and isoamyl salicylate provide a sun-warmed, sweetly balsamic undertone, smoothing the transition to resinous greens. Persian galbanum bursts through with its bitter-green bite, balanced by the smoky elegance of Haitian vetiver and the dark forest dampness of Tyrolean oakmoss, grounding the fragrance in mossy, shadowed woods. Earthiness comes from Penang patchouli, rich, camphorous, and chocolatey, while Atlas cedar and Brazilian rosewood add a polished, woody depth. The creamy, sacred aroma of Mysore sandalwood—soft, milky, and incense-like—threads through the heart of the base, blending seamlessly with the coumarinic warmth of Venezuelan tonka bean and its synthetic cousin, coumarin, both evoking hay and almond.

Then comes the animalic heat. Tonkin musk, rare and sensual, hums with warmth, its effect supported by the raw bite of Abyssinian civet and the leathery, smoky note of Canadian castoreum. These animalics, softened by ambergris, add radiance and depth, transforming the fragrance into something intimate and skin-like. Sweetness tempers the animalic growl: Mexican vanilla, dark and lush; Siam benzoin and Maltese labdanum, resinous and ambered; Spanish cistus absolute, leathery and smoky; Somali opoponax, velvety and balsamic; Peru balsam and Colombian tolu balsam, both rich, syrupy, and warmly spiced. Together, these resins weave a tapestry of incense, warmth, and shadow.

The overall impression of Breathless is one of striking contrast—sparkling aldehydes and citrus against narcotic florals and biting spices, all grounded in a sensual, mossy, resin-soaked base. Each element enhances the others: aldehydes make the citrus sing, synthetics like hydroxycitronellal and methyl ionone polish and idealize the florals, while salicylates smooth the transition from flower to wood, and resins enrich the animalic depth. The perfume lingers like a stolen moment—radiant, romantic, and smoldering—leaving the wearer, and those around her, quite literally breathless.

Product Line:

The Breathless by Charbert product line evolved over nearly two decades, reflecting both changing beauty habits and the mid-century trend of offering women complete fragrance wardrobes that extended beyond perfume. Each item was designed to layer, refresh, or adapt the Breathless scent to different moments of daily life, allowing the fragrance to shift from dramatic evening glamour to light, everyday wear.

The line began with the parfum, housed in the elegant jewel-cut drum flacon. This was the most concentrated form of Breathless, rich, long-lasting, and designed for the woman who wanted the full depth of its floral oriental-woody character. By contrast, the eau de cologne, launched in 1942, was much lighter, intended for generous application. Charbert introduced it in large 6- and 16-ounce “drum decanters” as well as a novelty “bugle” container complete with gold braid and tassels, evoking a patriotic wartime spirit. This military-themed packaging underscored the era’s mood while keeping the fragrance playful and accessible.

To extend the perfume experience into personal grooming, Charbert offered bath powder and talcum powder, both giving the skin a soft veil of fragrance while serving a practical role in keeping the body cool and smooth. The “Mit Me” Bath Powder Mitt was a charming innovation—a soft mitt pre-filled with powder, allowing the wearer to dust herself easily with Breathless while adding a touch of novelty to her toilette. In 1945, the sachet powder was introduced. While the perfume itself was not new, its presentation as sachet was: a more delicate way to wear Breathless, either layered with the stronger parfum or enjoyed alone for a light, powdery aura.

Charbert also expanded into travel and gifting. In 1948 came the “Cologne Doublette,” a chic black faille traveling kit pairing Breathless with a second fragrance of choice, such as Fabulous, Amber, or the French Touch. The following year, the “Pockette Perfume” appeared—a small velvet carrying case containing 1.5 drams of perfume in a spill-proof purse flacon. Over time, this design evolved: by 1951 it was upgraded to red or green lizard-grain leather, and in 1953 it adopted the signature Charbert drum motif, complete with diamond-shaped metal grillwork and a spill-proof cap, presented in a stylish black-and-white gift box flecked with gold. These pockettes reflected the glamour of postwar fashion, catering to women who wanted convenience without sacrificing sophistication.

The 1950s saw Breathless expand into more modern forms. In 1950, Charbert launched Breathless Frozen Mist, a solid cologne stick that made fragrance portable and easy to apply discreetly. By 1951, the company phased out the cologne and introduced eau de toilette, a more fashionable strength at the time, presented in a skirted bottle within a cerise and gold carton. The parfum was also repackaged luxuriously in cerise facile material against beige satin. That same year, guest and bath soaps and a sachet were added, making Breathless part of the boudoir and bath experience. Charbert also capitalized on new beauty trends with the Breathless Lotion Deodorant, presented in a lightweight plastic bottle with a sponge-tip applicator—modern, hygienic, and marketed under the Jacqueline Cochran operation.

By mid-decade, the line leaned heavily into the bath ritual. In 1954 came Bath Oil, followed by Foaming Bath and Bubble Bath, all designed to envelop the bather in a soft cloud of Breathless while pampering the skin. The foaming bath was especially eye-catching, presented in a crystal-textured plastic bottle tied with a gold ribbon, reflecting the era’s fascination with sparkling packaging. In 1955, the eau de toilette was modernized again, this time packaged in a rosy-pink aerosol spray bottle—a glamorous and ultra-convenient format that reflected the rise of pressurized sprays in cosmetics.

The late 1950s continued the expansion into everyday beauty. In 1957, Charbert introduced a Hand & Body Lotion, marrying fragrance with skin care, and in 1958 came the Perfume Spray, another modern, portable way to enjoy the scent. By then, Breathless had grown into a full lifestyle fragrance, available in nearly every cosmetic form, ensuring that a woman could step out of her bath, dust on powder, spray her cologne, tuck a pockette into her purse, and carry the scent with her all day.

 

Breathless Mist:

The Breathless Mist line was a clever extension of Charbert’s flagship fragrance, designed to reinterpret the richness of Breathless in a lighter, fresher form. Where the original perfume was dense, warm, and lingering, Breathless Mist sought to capture a breezier, summery character—marketed as “frosty-cool” and airy. The first version, introduced in 1953, was essentially a light toilet water, presented in an 8 oz narrow drum-shaped bottle. Advertisements suggested that this reformulation may have included additional cooling notes such as camphor, mint, and juniper, which gave it a refreshing lift and made it ideal for warm weather wear. The drum-shaped bottle tied the Mist visually to the main Breathless line, but the format emphasized generous splashing, underscoring its casual, carefree character.

By 1955, Charbert extended the Mist concept to Dusting Powder, echoing the tradition of silky-smooth body powders that left the skin soft while layering fragrance lightly. The following year, in 1956, the brand modernized further with Breathless Mist Spray in an unbreakable container—reflecting the new fascination with convenience and safety. This marked one of Charbert’s earliest experiments with functional, non-glass packaging, catering to women who wanted portable elegance without risk of shattered bottles.

In 1957, the fragrance was given two entirely new presentations. The 6 oz “flare-skirt” bottle carried a distinctly feminine silhouette, a design that tied into mid-century fashion trends, while the larger 16 oz crystal-cut “urn” decanter added glamour and abundance, presenting Breathless Mist as something that could be enjoyed lavishly at home. The urn decanter proved successful and was kept in circulation, with the 16 oz size continuing to be sold into 1960. This long availability demonstrates that Mist had secured its place as a household staple, distinct from the original parfum or eau de toilette.

By the late 1950s, Charbert began diversifying Breathless Mist into more specialized bath and grooming products. In 1959, Breathless Mist Bath Oil appeared, merging skin-conditioning luxury with the cooling, airy fragrance. Bath oils were especially fashionable in the 1950s, seen as both indulgent and practical for keeping the skin supple. In 1960, the company took a bold step by introducing Breathless Mist Hairstyling Curl Spray. This innovative product brought fragrance directly into hair care, combining light styling hold with the scent of Breathless Mist. It reflected the decade’s beauty culture, in which coiffed, lacquered hair was a daily ritual and perfumed hair products were seen as glamorous and modern.

Altogether, Breathless Mist evolved from a seasonal reinterpretation of the original fragrance into a complete lifestyle line, bridging the gap between perfume, body care, and grooming. Its focus on freshness, cooling effects, and new packaging innovations marked it as distinctly mid-century—a fragrance that adapted itself to the changing rhythms of women’s lives.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Breathless remained a cornerstone of Charbert’s perfume line for decades, though its discontinuation date is uncertain. What is clear is that the fragrance maintained steady popularity well beyond its 1942 debut. Advertisements confirm that Breathless was still being sold in 1969, showing its remarkable longevity in a competitive perfume market that was constantly introducing new names. Its staying power speaks not only to the strength of the original formula—a bold floral oriental with woody, mossy undertones—but also to the way it became part of women’s daily ritual, a dependable scent associated with glamour and memory.

Breathless Mist, the fresher, more casual counterpart, also enjoyed an extended life. Originally launched in 1953 as a frosty-cool summer fragrance, Mist carved out its own identity, appealing to women who wanted the beauty of Breathless but in a lighter, airier form. Records show that Breathless Mist was still being sold in 1973, a full twenty years after its debut. That two-decade span suggests that Mist was not just a novelty but a lasting companion fragrance, versatile enough to be worn more liberally in daily life, especially during warmer months or as an after-bath refreshment.

The overlap in the market life of the two versions demonstrates Charbert’s keen understanding of consumer needs: Breathless for depth and evening drama, Breathless Mist for ease, freshness, and daytime wear. Both versions carried the same sense of romantic allure promised in the original name, but they gave women the freedom to choose how strongly—or lightly—they wished to express it. Together, they extended the life of the Breathless brand well into the late 20th century before quietly fading from circulation, leaving behind a legacy of sophistication and adaptability.

CLICK HERE TO FIND BREATHLESS PERFUME BY CHARBERT