Miss Zadig by Emilio Pucci (1973)

Launched in 1973, Miss Zadig was conceived as a lighter, more youthful counterpoint to Emilio Pucci’s opulent original Zadig. By choosing the name “Miss Zadig,” Pucci signaled both continuity and transformation. The word Miss—English in origin and universally understood—suggests youth, freshness, and modern femininity, while Zadig retains its literary and exotic resonance drawn from Voltaire’s philosophical tale and Pucci’s own Babylonian reverie. Pronounced simply as miss ZAH-deeg (with a soft, elegant emphasis on the second syllable), the name evokes the image of a younger heroine stepping out from the shadow of a powerful, sensual predecessor—spirited, luminous, and freer in movement. Where Zadig suggested ancient courts and incense-filled temples, Miss Zadig feels like morning light filtering through silk curtains.

The early 1970s were a period of cultural transition and experimentation. Fashion was moving away from the rigid glamour of the 1960s toward fluid silhouettes, bohemian influences, and an emphasis on ease and individuality—hallmarks of Pucci’s own design language. This era, often described as the post–Space Age or early boho-luxe period, embraced natural fabrics, bold color, global inspiration, and a more relaxed sensuality. In perfumery, heavy aldehydic florals and grand orientals were being reinterpreted in lighter forms: eau fraîches, eaux de toilette, and brighter compositions that felt more wearable in daily life. Miss Zadig fits squarely into this evolution, offering women the mystique of an oriental fragrance without its full density.

Women of the time would have related to Miss Zadig as a reflection of changing identities—independent yet romantic, worldly yet youthful. The fragrance speaks to a woman who admired depth and mystery but preferred them expressed with subtlety and freshness. As a floral oriental, Miss Zadig translates its name into scent through contrast: sparkling citrus brightness, led by citron, softens the darker incense-like impressions of the original. Jasmine provides a radiant floral core, sensuous but airy, while ylang-ylang adds creamy, exotic warmth without heaviness. Indian sandalwood grounds the composition with a smooth, meditative softness, suggesting polished wood warmed by skin rather than smoke or resin.

The often-cited description of Miss Zadig as “a hypnotic spicy blend…derived from the aroma of burning incense” captures its soul, but in a filtered, translucent way—like incense drifting in open air rather than enclosed stone walls. Compared to other fragrances on the market in 1973, Miss Zadig was not radically avant-garde, but it was refined and well-timed. It aligned with the growing trend toward lighter orientals and eau fraîche interpretations, yet stood out through its literary name, exotic imagery, and Pucci’s unmistakable aesthetic of elegant escapism. Ultimately, Miss Zadig feels like a journey made approachable—an invitation to mystery, reimagined with freshness, youth, and modern grace.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Miss Zadig is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. Miss Zadig Eau Fraîche is a softened, fresher interpretation of Zadig. While retaining its own distinct personality, this eau de toilette is lightened by the refreshing brightness of citron. It is composed of jasmine, Indian sandalwood, and ylang-ylang. "A hypnotic spicy blend...a dominant, interesting and unique scent composition derived from the aroma of burning incense...the rare sense-penetrating kind that might have lingered in an ancient Chinese temple." 

• Top notes: aldehydes, Messina bergamot, citron, lemon, green notes
• Middle notes: violet, rose, lily, Provencal jasmine, Manila ylang ylang
• Base notes: incense, vetiver, oakmoss, cedar, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Tibetan musk, vanilla

Scent Profile:

Miss Zadig Eau Fraîche opens like a veil being lifted, its first breath cool, luminous, and quietly magnetic. A delicate aldehydic accord introduces a silvery sparkle—clean, airy, almost effervescent—softening the composition rather than sharpening it. These aldehydes, carefully dosed, amplify the natural brightness of the citrus rather than overpowering it, giving the fragrance a gentle radiance, like light glancing off polished silk. 

Messina bergamot, grown along the sun-washed Calabrian coast of southern Italy, brings a refined citrus elegance: less sharp than lemon, more nuanced, with faint floral and green facets that feel effortlessly chic. Citron, brighter and more aromatic than common lemon, contributes a juicy, slightly bitter freshness that feels cleansing and uplifting, while lemon adds a familiar sparkle that reads as crisp and immediate. Subtle green notes—often recreated through synthetic molecules that evoke crushed leaves and stems—suggest tender shoots and fresh air, reinforcing the “eau fraîche” character and creating a naturalistic bridge between citrus and flower.

As the brightness settles, the heart unfolds in a soft, floral hush, intimate rather than opulent. Violet appears first, powdery and slightly earthy, with its signature cosmetic softness—cool, nostalgic, and faintly sweet. It lends an elegant restraint, preventing the bouquet from becoming too lush. Rose follows, not jammy or heavy, but sheer and dewy, its petals freshly opened rather than fully bloomed. Lily adds a clean, watery floral tone, lending clarity and lift. 

At the center, Provencal jasmine—celebrated for its luminous, sun-warmed character—brings a creamy floral radiance that feels alive and gently sensual, its indolic depth carefully polished by modern aroma chemicals to keep it airy and wearable. Manila ylang-ylang, sourced from the Philippines and prized for its smooth, banana-cream richness, wraps the florals in a soft exotic warmth. Here, natural ylang is subtly enhanced by synthetics that emphasize its velvety sweetness while taming its heavier, sometimes medicinal edges, resulting in a refined floral glow.

The drydown is where Miss Zadig reveals its hypnotic soul, echoing the incense imagery that defines its character. Incense, likely a blend of frankincense resins and smoky synthetics, rises gently—dry, resinous, and meditative—evoking the lingering scent of burning incense in an ancient temple, carried by warm air rather than dense smoke. Vetiver, with its earthy, grassy depth, adds a cool, root-like contrast, while oakmoss contributes a softly damp, forest-floor richness that anchors the fragrance in classical perfumery tradition. 

Cedar lends a dry, pencil-wood clarity, sharpening the base just enough to keep it elegant. At the core of the foundation lies Mysore sandalwood, once sourced from India and revered for its creamy, milky smoothness and subtle spice—far richer and more nuanced than modern substitutes. Carefully chosen synthetic sandalwood molecules extend its warmth and longevity, allowing that velvety wood to glow on skin for hours.

Finally, the base softens into sensual warmth. Ambergris, recreated through sophisticated aroma chemicals, adds a salty, skin-like diffusion that makes the fragrance feel intimate and alive. Tibetan musk, more mythic than literal today, is expressed through clean yet animalic musks that suggest warmth, breath, and human closeness without heaviness. A whisper of vanilla rounds the composition, not sweet or gourmand, but gently balsamic and comforting. Together, these elements form a base that is warm, contemplative, and quietly seductive. Miss Zadig Eau Fraîche ultimately feels like incense filtered through daylight—mysterious yet approachable, spiritual yet feminine—an oriental floral rendered in soft focus, designed to linger like a memory rather than announce itself.

Product Line:

In 1977/1978, Miss Zadig was available in the following formats:

• Presentation: same presentation as Zadig but in pink shades. Available in Eau Fraiche (120ml, 240ml, 480ml); and in a natural spray Eau Fraiche (60ml)

In 1984/1985, Miss Zadig was available in the following formats:

• Presentation: same presentation as Zadig but in pink shades. Available in Eau Fraiche (60ml, 120ml, 240ml, 480ml); and in a natural spray Eau Fraiche (60ml, 120ml)
• Ancillary Products: Soap; Foaming bath; Deodorant

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. It was still sold in 1986.