Wednesday, April 4, 2018

Madame by Philippe Venet (1968)

Madame by Philippe Venet, launched in 1968, carries a name of striking simplicity and cultural weight. Madame is a French word, pronounced in plain terms as "mah-DAHM", and it translates directly to “Mrs.” or “Madam.” More than a form of address, Madame conveys status, maturity, and recognition. It signals a woman who is acknowledged, established, and respected—someone who has stepped fully into her identity. By choosing this name, Philippe Venet aligned the fragrance not with youth or flirtation, but with presence, authority, and cultivated femininity.

The word Madame evokes images of composure and elegance: a woman entering a room with quiet assurance, pearls at her throat, tailored lines brushing her silhouette. Emotionally, it suggests mystery, restraint, and self-possession rather than overt seduction. There is an intimacy implied, but it is controlled—private rather than performative. As a perfume name, Madame feels timeless and unapologetically confident, rooted in identity rather than aspiration.

Its 1968 launch places the fragrance at a moment of profound cultural transformation. The late 1960s were defined by social upheaval, political protest, and a redefinition of gender roles. Fashion reflected this tension: alongside youth-driven styles—miniskirts, bold prints, and liberated silhouettes—there remained a strong current of couture elegance. Designers like Philippe Venet, known for refined lines and aristocratic restraint, represented continuity amid change. In perfumery, this period saw a fascination with green notes and chypre structures, scents that felt intellectual, natural, and quietly assertive. Chypres, with their mossy depth and structured elegance, spoke to women who wanted complexity and seriousness rather than sweetness.


For women of the time, a perfume called Madame would have carried a powerful resonance. In an era when women were renegotiating their place in society, the title Madame could be read as both traditional and subversive. It acknowledged adulthood and authority at a time when women were demanding autonomy and respect. Wearing Madame was not about nostalgia for convention, but about claiming presence—being seen and addressed on one’s own terms.

Interpreted in scent, the name Madame suggests depth, subtlety, and composure. As a green floral chypre, the fragrance balances freshness with shadow. Moss forms the backbone, cool and earthy, evoking forest floors and shaded gardens, lending gravity and restraint. Jasmine introduces a controlled sensuality—floral, luminous, and warm, but never overt—while rose adds classical elegance, soft petals layered with faint green bitterness. Woody notes complete the composition, dry and polished, like fine furniture or the interior of a couture atelier. Together, these elements create a scent that unfolds quietly, revealing complexity over time rather than announcing itself immediately.

In the context of other fragrances on the market, Madame was firmly aligned with the sophisticated chypre trend of the late 1960s, yet it distinguished itself through understatement. While some contemporaries pushed toward sharper greens or more experimental structures, Madame remained poised and classical. Its uniqueness lay not in innovation, but in refinement—an elegance that resisted excess. It was not designed to shock or seduce overtly, but to accompany a woman like a well-chosen piece of jewelry: discreet, personal, and deeply expressive.

Ultimately, Madame by Philippe Venet is a fragrance about identity and presence. Mysterious, alluring, and subtle, it embodies a woman who does not need to declare herself loudly. In 1968—and beyond—it offered a vision of femininity that was mature, self-aware, and quietly powerful, making it a fitting olfactory signature for the sophisticated woman who wears her elegance as naturally as her name.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Madame is classified as a green floral chypre fragrance for women. Madame by Philippe Venet is a chypre fragrance. Composed of moss, jasmine, rose, and woody notes. A mysterious, alluring, and subtle perfume, it is the indispensable complement to jewelry and elegant dresses for the sophisticated woman.
  • Top notes: galbanum, bergamot, mimosa, lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellal, leaf alcohols, galbanum, clary sage
  • Middle notes: jasmine, orange blossom, lilac, rose, geranium, phenyl ethyl alcohol, hyacinth, orris, ionone 
  • Base notes: patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, Atlas cedar, guaiac, tonka bean, vanilla, benzoin, tolu balsam, musk, musk ketones, ambergris, ambrette  

Scent Profile:


Madame unfolds with a cool, assured elegance, its opening steeped in green light and refined bitterness. Galbanum sets the tone immediately—sharp, resinous, and intensely green, like snapping a sap-filled stem between the fingers. This note is prized for its austere clarity, giving chypre fragrances their unmistakable tension and sophistication. Bergamot, likely from Calabria, softens the severity with a citrus brightness that is refined rather than juicy—its faint floral bitterness adding polish and lift. 

Mimosa floats in gently, powdery and golden, evoking soft pollen and warm skin, while lily-of-the-valley rings clear and cool. As this flower yields no extract, its scent is beautifully reconstructed with aroma chemicals, most notably hydroxycitronellal, which smells fresh, watery, and delicately floral, lending luminosity and diffusion to the opening. Leaf alcohols enhance the sensation of crushed greenery and fresh air, while clary sage contributes an herbal, slightly musky clarity that grounds the brightness and adds composure.

The heart of Madame reveals a quietly sumptuous floral core, layered and restrained rather than overtly lush. Jasmine emerges with controlled sensuality—creamy, radiant, and warm, but polished by supporting molecules that smooth its indolic edge and allow it to glow softly against the skin. Orange blossom adds a luminous, honeyed floralcy, while lilac introduces a tender, spring-like sweetness—powdery and pastel, recreated through skilled accords rather than natural extraction. 

Rose anchors the heart with classical elegance, its petal-soft richness balanced by green freshness rather than jammy depth. Geranium adds a minty, rosy sharpness, giving structure and lift to the florals. Phenyl ethyl alcohol, a key rose molecule, enhances the natural rose impression with clarity and diffusion, while hyacinth contributes a cool, watery green floral nuance—fresh, vegetal, and refined. Orris (iris root) brings a suede-like powderiness, elegant and cosmetic, and ionones—violet-leaning aroma molecules—add a cool, slightly woody floral softness, smoothing transitions and lending aristocratic restraint.

As the fragrance settles, Madame reveals its true chypre soul in a deep, resonant woody–mossy base. Patchouli provides earthy richness, refined rather than bohemian, while vetiver adds dry, rooty elegance—green, slightly smoky, and clean. Oakmoss, traditionally sourced from Mediterranean forests, forms the backbone: cool, shadowed, and bitter-green, evoking damp forest floors and lichen-covered stone.

Mysore sandalwood, prized for its creamy, milky warmth and exceptional smoothness, wraps the moss in a soft, meditative woodiness, its natural richness extended by complementary sandalwood molecules for longevity and diffusion. Atlas cedar contributes dry, pencil-shaving clarity, while guaiac wood adds a faintly smoky, resinous warmth.

The base is further enriched with balsamic and animalic nuances that lend mystery and intimacy. Tonka bean introduces a gentle almond-vanilla warmth, while vanilla itself softens the composition with restrained sweetness. Benzoin and tolu balsam add resinous depth—warm, ambery, and slightly smoky—bridging woods and sweetness seamlessly. Ambergris brings a mineral, skin-warmed radiance that enhances longevity and glow, while ambrette seed contributes a natural, musky softness with faint pear-like and powdery nuances. Musk and classic musk ketones envelop everything in a clean yet sensual haze, amplifying diffusion and giving the perfume its quiet persistence—never loud, always present.

Together, these elements create a fragrance of poise and mystery. Natural florals and resins are sharpened, illuminated, and extended by carefully chosen aroma chemicals, each enhancing clarity, longevity, and elegance. Madame does not announce itself; it reveals itself slowly, like fine jewelry catching light with movement. Green, floral, and mossy, yet warm and intimate beneath, it is a chypre of restraint and authority—an indispensable companion to elegance, confidence, and cultivated femininity.


Historia, 1968:
"VENET MADAME A mysterious fragrance, attractive and subtle made of moss, jasmine, rose, and woody notes, which will be an essential complement to jewelry and evening dresses for the sophisticated woman. PHILIPPE Perfume VENET."

Cue, 1971:
"Philippe Venet's Mademoiselle, daytime breezy, and Madame, an evening romantic, from $15."

House & Garden, 1972:
"MADAME by Philippe Venet — another very quiet, un- show-offy scent, new from France. But this one has an amusing hook in it — a feeling of a rhythmic heat you can almost hear. At the same time Venet presents Mademoiselle, fresh, less ..."

Product Line:


The presentation of Madame by Philippe Venet was conceived as an extension of the fragrance’s character—elegant, modern, and quietly powerful. The flacons, designed by Serge Mansau, reflect the spirit of late-1960s artistic experimentation, when perfumery, sculpture, and industrial design increasingly intersected. Mansau’s work rejects ornament for ornament’s sake; instead, it embraces form, texture, and tactile presence as expressive tools in their own right.

The bottle itself is a sculpted block of crystal, substantial in the hand, with relief surfaces that evoke the raw forces of nature. Its textures recall tree bark, weathered branches, and organic striations shaped by time, echoing modern sculpture inspired by natural erosion and elemental strength. Light catches unevenly across the crystal, creating subtle shadows and highlights that give the flacon a sense of movement and depth—quietly dramatic, yet never ostentatious. It is a bottle meant to be touched and contemplated, not merely displayed.

The outer packaging reinforces this restrained modernity. Rather than relying on overt decoration, it presents a series of controlled pictorial movements—premeditated graphic gestures that feel both artistic and disciplined. The palette and textures suggest mosses and lichens, an abstract nod to the chypre heart of the fragrance itself. The overall impression remains deliberately simple, allowing nuance and material quality to speak louder than excess embellishment.

Madame was offered in a full range of formats that reflected its status as a serious, couture-adjacent perfume. The Parfum was available in ¼ oz, ½ oz, 1 oz, and 2 oz, as well as a discreet purse spray, underscoring its role as an intimate, personal luxury. The Eau de Toilette was presented in generous splash bottles—2 oz, 4 oz, 8 oz, and 16 oz—along with an atomizer, making the fragrance adaptable to daily ritual or more lavish application. Together, the design and presentation affirmed Madame as a perfume that united modern art, refined femininity, and enduring sophistication.











Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1972, but discontinued before 1983.


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