Cachet Noir by Prince Matchabelli (1983)

Cachet Noir by Prince Matchabelli was launched in 1983 as a sophisticated and more luxurious companion to the original Cachet, which had already enjoyed popularity since its 1970 debut. The name Cachet Noir is French—cachet meaning “seal” or “distinction,” and noir translating to “black.” Pronounced cash-ay nwahr, the name immediately evokes mystery, elegance, and refinement. Where Cachet was fresh and wearable, Cachet Noir was designed to be deeper, sultrier, and more sensuous—a fragrance for the evening, for a woman of quiet power and undeniable allure.

The 1980s were a bold, image-driven era, marked by excess and aspiration. Power dressing defined fashion, and shoulder pads, glossy lips, and assertive femininity ruled both boardrooms and cocktail lounges. In fragrance, this era saw the rise of heady orientals, lush florals, and daring chypres—scents that made a statement and lingered long after their wearer left the room. Cachet Noir fit perfectly within this context. Its spicy opening and warm, balsamic base mirrored the rich, opulent direction perfumery was taking at the time, influenced by hits like Opium (1977), Cinnabar (1978), and Obsession (1985).

To choose a name like Cachet Noir during this period was intentional—it promised something exclusive, elegant, and dramatic. It suggested a scent worn with a sleek black gown, red lipstick, and confidence. The "noir" element hinted at mystery and sensuality, aligning perfectly with the decade's fascination with luxurious self-expression.

For women of the 1980s, Cachet Noir would have represented a transition from daytime to night, from the pragmatic to the seductive. It allowed women to embody both polish and provocation. Unlike the original Cachet, which was marketed for daily elegance, Cachet Noir invited a woman to embrace her complexity—spicy, floral, and warm, yet still distinctly composed.

In terms of originality, Cachet Noir fell in line with prevailing trends of the time—rich orientals and complex bases were everywhere—but it carved out a niche by offering sophistication at an accessible price. It wasn’t trying to compete with the big couture houses but offered something refined, mysterious, and modern for a woman who knew her worth.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Cachet Noir by Prince Matchabelli is classified as a spicy oriental fragrance for women. It begins with a spicy top, spicy floral woody heart, resting on a warm, balsamic base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Persian galbanum, fruity note accord, Ceylon cardamom and Jamaican pimento
• Middle notes: Mysore sandalwood, Sumatran styrax, East Indian vetiver, French carnation, Egyptian jasmine, Bulgarian rose, Manila ylang-ylang, Singapore patchouli and Saigon cinnamon
• Base notes: leather, Spanish cistus, ambergris, Siam benzoin, Canadian castoreum, Virginian cedar, Maltese labdanum, Abyssinian civet, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Somali olibanum and Madagascar vanilla

Scent Profile:

Cachet Noir by Prince Matchabelli opens with a bold and immediate impression—spicy, shimmering, and intriguingly complex. As I draw in the first breath, I’m met by a sparkling burst of aldehydes, those airy, champagne-like molecules that give the opening a sense of lift and effervescence. These aldehydes—particularly the soapy, waxy C-12 MNA and fatty C-10—don’t just announce the fragrance; they create an atmosphere, a silken veil that glows over the top notes and lingers.

Beneath that luminous surface, the brisk, tart sparkle of Calabrian bergamot makes itself known—sun-warmed and green, with just a trace of bitterness, harvested from the southern Italian coast where the fruit's oil is prized for its unparalleled balance of citrus and floral facets. A verdant flash of Persian galbanum follows—resinous, sharp, and slightly bitter, grounding the citrus with its mossy, forest-floor intensity. This green intensity is softened by a fruity note accord, perhaps a blend of abstract peach, plum, or apricot, offering the faint, ripened sweetness of skin-warmed orchard fruit.

The spices that come next bring the top to a simmer: the warm, slightly sweet spice of Ceylon cardamom, bright and green, dances alongside Jamaican pimento, also known as allspice, with its warm clove-and-cinnamon bite. This spiced veil hints at the richness that lies beneath.

In the heart, the fragrance deepens into a lavish, spicy-floral tapestry. French carnation, with its peppery and slightly medicinal nuance, acts as the floral bridge between warmth and bloom. Its spicy kick is elevated by the resinous, bitter-balsamic Sumatran styrax and smooth, earthy East Indian vetiver, both grounding yet glowing. The presence of Mysore sandalwood here is unmistakable—creamy, softly smoky, and supremely rich, lending a dignified, polished elegance that few modern sandalwoods can match. Mysore’s now-restricted harvest lends a touch of history and irreplaceable depth.

The florals swirl in next: heady Egyptian jasmine, intensely narcotic and indolic; dew-kissed Bulgarian rose, plush and velvety; and lush Manila ylang-ylang, with its creamy, banana-like sweetness. A dark-earthy Singapore patchouli weaves among them, adding shadows and sensuality. This heart is a tapestry of contrasts—floral and spicy, delicate yet bold. The exotic heat of Saigon cinnamon simmers beneath it all—more fiery and slightly woody than Ceylon's, and unmistakably seductive.

The drydown of Cachet Noir is where it reaches full bloom: resinous, animalic, and irresistibly warm. The base opens with a leathery richness—an effect built from Spanish cistus, dark and smoky, and Maltese labdanum, thick and ambery, giving a burnished, autumnal warmth. There’s a thread of leather, softened yet commanding, which folds beautifully into the balsamic sweetness of Siam benzoin, creamy and vanillic, and the toasted, resinous warmth of South American tolu balsam.

Here, animalic notes begin to flicker through: the musky, almost powdery Abyssinian civet; the smoky, musky Canadian castoreum; and the sweet, fatty pulse of ambergris, aged and refined. These notes are not loud, but whispered—like the warmth of skin, lingering behind silk. Virginian cedar adds a dry, pencil-shaving woodiness, while earthy Yugoslavian oakmoss grounds the perfume with an elegant, chypre-like whisper of the forest. Completing this complex base is the faint sweetness of Madagascar vanilla, real and heady, its creamy richness tethering the perfume's spiced heart to its ambery soul. Somali olibanum, or frankincense, trails in last, glowing with its citrusy-resinous breath, giving the entire composition a sacred shimmer.

Cachet Noir is a fragrance of layers—structured and sultry, polished yet deeply emotive. Each note breathes into the next, creating a composition that feels as rich and atmospheric as velvet in candlelight. It speaks of evenings draped in silk and lacquered confidence, of strength paired with sensuality. In a time when perfumes were meant to assert personality, Cachet Noir made no apologies for its depth—it embraced it.

Product Line:

The original product line for Cachet Noir by Prince Matchabelli, launched in 1983, reflected the marketing strategies and consumer preferences of the early 1980s, when fragrance houses catered to a wide range of needs—from daily wear to evening glamour—through an array of formats and strengths. Each product within the line was crafted to suit a specific usage occasion, level of concentration, and mode of application, allowing women to experience the sensual, spicy oriental scent in ways that fit their lifestyles.

The 1/8 oz perfume mini was the smallest and most collectible size, often used for sampling or given as a gift-with-purchase. Despite its diminutive volume, this was pure perfume (also called extrait), the most concentrated and luxurious form of fragrance, offering maximum richness and longevity. The 0.25 oz perfume bottle offered a slightly larger version of the extrait, designed for those who loved the lasting intimacy of true perfume and preferred to apply it with a fingertip to pulse points.

The 0.35 oz perfume spray provided a more modern twist: the same high concentration of perfume but in a convenient spray format, which was relatively new for perfume extraits in the early 1980s. This was ideal for those who wanted precision in application without losing the opulence of a traditional parfum.

Next in the range was the 0.5 oz perfume pursette spray, a sleek and portable version of the extrait, created with women on the go in mind. The “pursette” was a compact spray housed in a design suitable for carrying in a handbag or evening clutch, allowing discreet reapplication throughout the day or night.

The 3 oz Eau de Toilette spray was a lighter concentration, typically around 8–15% aromatic compounds, suitable for more generous application. This format was intended for daytime wear or for women who preferred a more diffused, radiant version of Cachet Noir’s spicy floral warmth.

For those wanting something between a full perfume and a light mist, the Cologne Spray Concentrates offered a unique compromise. The 0.65 oz and 1.5 oz bottles contained a stronger-than-average cologne, usually around 4–8% fragrance concentration, delivering lasting power and richness without the density of an extrait. These were especially popular with women who liked to layer their scent or apply it liberally.

The 1 oz and 5 oz Cologne Splash bottles represented a more traditional way of wearing fragrance, meant to be splashed onto the skin or even dabbed into hair or onto lingerie. The 1 oz version was compact, while the 5 oz offered a more economical option for frequent use. These colognes were typically lighter than the parfum or EDT, but still captured the essential signature of the Cachet Noir scent.

Finally, the 4 oz Dusting Powder completed the line, offering a luxurious, softly scented body powder designed to be used after bathing. Infused with the fragrance, it left a delicate, long-lasting veil of scent while keeping skin soft and dry. Dusting powders were especially popular in the 1980s as part of a complete fragrance layering ritual, contributing to the overall longevity and projection of the perfume.

Together, these formats allowed Cachet Noir to be worn as a signature scent across every moment of a woman's day—whispered close to the skin in extrait, worn boldly as an eau de toilette, or softly dusted across the shoulders and décolletage in powder.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Cachet Noir, originally launched in 1983 by Prince Matchabelli, was discontinued in 1989 due to declining demand. By the late 1980s, the fragrance market was shifting rapidly. Preferences were evolving toward lighter, aquatic, and cleaner scents—styles ushered in by trends such as the popularity of fresh florals and sporty compositions. In contrast, Cachet Noir, with its spicy oriental richness, its woody-mossy warmth, and deep animalic base, represented an older olfactory tradition. Despite its elegance and complexity, it no longer aligned with consumer preferences of the moment, and with sales slipping, the line became unprofitable to maintain.

The discontinuation marked the end of the original full collection, which once included a range of perfume concentrations, colognes, and body products. However, the legacy of Cachet Noir remained quietly influential, remembered for its moody sophistication and sultry warmth.

At some point after 2004, Cachet Noir was quietly relaunched, though in a significantly reduced form. Now available solely as a 3 oz Eau de Toilette spray, the relaunch appears to have been aimed at nostalgic consumers or those loyal to the Matchabelli name. This version offers a more accessible and wearable interpretation of the original—lighter in strength, simplified in presentation, and easier to wear day to day.

While the full suite of luxurious products such as extrait sprays and dusting powder is no longer available, the Eau de Toilette spray still evokes the original's spicy-floral warmth, serving as a nod to the past for those who remember it—and a subtle introduction for those discovering it anew.