Acte II by Escada (1995)

Acte 2 by Escada, launched in 1995 and sometimes stylized as Acte II, arrived at a moment in time when the fragrance world was shifting dramatically. The name, drawn from the French word acte (pronounced akt, meaning "act" as in a play), quite literally means “Act Two.” It suggests a new chapter, a fresh start, or a continuation—perhaps a reinvention of self. For Escada, a fashion house known for vibrant, confident femininity, this title felt like a deliberate cue: this was not merely a perfume, but a turning point, a declaration of a woman entering a new phase—elegant, self-assured, and subtly sensual.

The mid-1990s marked what many consider the "transparent" or "aquatic" era in perfumery. After the heavy florals and power scents of the 1980s, and the gourmand surge initiated by Thierry Mugler's Angel in 1992, the mid-’90s embraced lighter, more ethereal compositions. Sheer floral-marine scents, like L’Eau d’Issey by Issey Miyake (1992) and CK One (1994), redefined the olfactory landscape. Acte 2 fit beautifully within this movement, yet carried Escada’s refined twist—softly radiant, whisper-light, but not anonymous. It aimed to project poise over power, transparency over projection.

The name Acte 2 evoked feelings of transformation, elegance, and poetic introspection. It brought to mind moonlit waters, silk chiffon, and quiet confidence. Women of the era—caught between minimalism in fashion (Calvin Klein slip dresses, Helmut Lang tailoring) and expressive femininity—might have seen this scent as a wearable form of introspection. It wasn't loud or dramatic; instead, it was graceful and restrained. The scent’s marine-floral character interpreted the "second act" as a clean, salt-kissed breeze through a garden of delicate blossoms—modern, subtle, and quietly empowering.

Created by perfumer Ilias Ermenidis of Firmenich, Acte 2 stood as Escada’s answer to the prevailing trend—but with sophistication. Rather than follow the trend blindly, it infused the marine-aquatic genre with a creamy floral signature that was uniquely Escada. In the context of other fragrances on the market, Acte 2 was aligned with the airy, translucent sensibilities of its time, yet elevated by its nuanced blend and refined composition. It didn’t shout for attention—it invited it gently.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Acte II by Escada is classified as a soft marine floral fragrance for women. Described as a sheer and transparent floral.  

• Top notes: wild rose, aldehyde, orange, bergamot, mandarin (tangerine), freesia, ozone
• Middle notes: star anise, mimosa, orris, peony, blackberry, blackcurrant, jasmine, cinnamon
• Base notes: cedar, amber, vanilla, sandalwood, frankincense

 

Scent Profile:

Acte II by Escada unfolds like the gentle rise of a sheer curtain before a stage performance—light, airy, and filled with the shimmer of anticipation. From the very first breath, the top notes introduce a delicate yet fresh transparency that feels like walking through a garden at dawn, dew still clinging to the petals.

The composition opens with a burst of citrus—Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian mandarin, and a touch of sweet orange—each lending a bright, sunlit vibrancy. Bergamot, prized for its lively, slightly bitter-green freshness, lends a clean sparkle, while mandarin brings a juicier warmth. Nestled among these is wild rose, airy and subtly sweet, suggesting a bloom caught in the morning breeze. Freesia adds a watery petal-like transparency—its subtle peppery undertone pairing beautifully with the aldehydes, which fizz softly, adding an airy, champagne-like lift that gives the top a light-infused brilliance. The ozone note—synthetic, but masterfully used—evokes the scent of sea air before a summer storm: clean, marine, and slightly metallic. It enhances the natural brightness of the citrus and floral notes without overpowering them, and helps convey the perfume’s defining “sheer” quality.

The heart introduces a deeper complexity as florals and spices begin to warm. Mimosa, soft and powdery, glows gently beside orris root, which lends a creamy, suede-like texture. Orris, often distilled from the rhizomes of Tuscan iris, is among the most expensive raw materials in perfumery—its scent is buttery, slightly woody, and violet-like. Peony, in contrast, feels more dewy and youthful, opening up the floral bouquet with a translucent crispness. Jasmine—likely Egyptian or Indian absolute—grounds the center with a quietly narcotic sensuality, while blackcurrant and blackberry bring a natural tartness, adding a succulent, wild edge to the sweetness. These fruit notes are green and tangy, rather than syrupy, giving the composition its characteristic freshness. Star anise and a breath of cinnamon introduce an unexpected twist: cool and warm at once, adding a subtle spiced shimmer that lingers on the skin like an afterthought—fascinating, but never overpowering.

As it dries down, Acte II softens into a gentle warmth. Virginian cedar provides a dry, pencil-shavings-like woodiness that acts as a steady backbone. Sandalwood, likely sourced from Mysore or a sustainable alternative, adds creaminess and depth. Amber lends a soft resinous glow, while vanilla adds a whisper of sweetness—more satin than sugar. The frankincense, used sparingly, threads a subtle incense-like veil through the base, creating a light smokiness that never dominates. It pairs gracefully with the airy top and soft floral heart, giving the fragrance a contemplative serenity.

Throughout the composition, synthetic aroma chemicals like aldehydes, ozone, and hydroxycitronellal likely support and amplify the natural materials, making the perfume feel clean and modern. The synthetics don’t obscure the nature-inspired ingredients; rather, they enhance their delicacy—like sunlight streaming through a gauzy curtain.

Acte II is not about drama. It is about refined atmosphere—a scent that evokes watery light, clean skin, and whispered elegance. For a woman entering her next chapter, it speaks not of bold reinvention, but of graceful evolution.

Bottle:

Presented in a ‘cross-limbed’ (inspired by elegantly crossed legs of a seated women) faceted bottle with gold frosted looped cap, designed by Thierry Lecoule and has been adapted for other Escada fragrances .

Fate of the Fragrance:

Acte 2 by Escada was launched in 1995, a time when perfume houses were embracing airy transparency, oceanic freshness, and soft florals—marking a shift from the bold power scents of the 1980s into something more ethereal and modern. Positioned as a sheer marine floral fragrance, Acte 2 embodied that emerging 1990s ideal of quiet elegance and natural beauty. Designed for a woman who sought grace over drama, the fragrance was notable for its gentle structure and light-infused composition, presenting a new kind of femininity—one that was soft-spoken but still emotionally resonant.

While the exact date of discontinuation remains unknown, Acte 2 quietly faded from the market sometime in the early 2000s. It remains a cult favorite for those who remember it—a fragrance that seemed to glow on the skin, evoking spring rain, sea breeze, and fresh flowers without ever feeling heavy or dated.

Acte 2 en Fleurs:

In 1997, Escada followed the success of Acte 2 with a flanker: Acte II en Fleurs. As the name suggests—“Act Two in Flowers”—this version emphasized the floral aspect more directly. It leaned into soft petals and delicate green nuances, offering a slightly more romantic and garden-like interpretation of the original. It maintained the lightness and aquatic spirit of Acte 2, but dialed up the bloom, creating a new experience for fans who wanted something even fresher and more floral.

Together, Acte 2 and Acte II en Fleurs formed a short-lived but memorable chapter in Escada’s perfume history—each a reflection of a decade that favored subtlety, serenity, and modern femininity.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Acte II en Fleurs is classified as a fresh floral fragrance for women. It is described as a lighter, "transparent amber' interpretation of Escada Acte 2.

• Top notes: green notes, bergamot, aldehydes, blackberry, clementine
• Middle notes: jasmine, honeysuckle, peony, freesia, cyclamen, rose, orris
• Base notes: vanilla, myrrh, amber, cedar, sandalwood, cinnamon

Scent Profile:

Acte II en Fleurs by Escada is a luminous, modern floral that arrives like the shimmer of sunlight through spring blossoms—clear, fresh, and delicately golden. Described as a "transparent amber," this 1997 flanker to Acte 2 was designed to be even lighter and airier than its predecessor. What sets this fragrance apart is the way its composition captures the texture of petals and the warmth of skin-kissed woods without ever feeling heavy. It feels like waking in a sun-drenched garden after early rain.

The opening greets you with crisp green notes, dewy and alive, evoking crushed stems and morning grass—so vividly natural they seem to breathe. This verdancy is sharpened by Calabrian bergamot, prized for its zesty brightness and touch of floral bitterness, and softened by clementine, which adds a rounder, sunnier citrus note with a gentle sweetness. The hint of blackberry—juicy and tart—adds a subtle fruitiness that grounds the opening in something real and ripe, while aldehydes (likely including C-10 and C-11) add a fizzy, abstract lift—like the sparkle of champagne or the glint of light off glass. These synthetics create a gauzy airiness, enhancing the transparency of the natural notes and giving the fragrance its unmistakable freshness.

The heart blooms with soft, tender florals—honeysuckle, freesia, cyclamen, peony, rose, jasmine, and orris. Each brings its own texture and tone: honeysuckle is sweet and creamy, almost nectar-like; freesia contributes a cool, watery brightness; and cyclamen gives a sheer, green-tinged floralcy that feels fresh from the garden. Peony lends a pink petal softness with a clean, romantic mood, while Bulgarian rose and Egyptian jasmine deepen the bouquet with more traditional floral depth—velvety and sensual, but never cloying. Orris, extracted from the roots of the Florentine iris, adds a slightly powdery, buttery richness, grounding the heart while keeping it ethereal. These floral absolutes are likely supported by delicate doses of synthetic floral aroma chemicals like hydroxycitronellal or lilial, enhancing radiance and longevity without obscuring the light touch.

The base is subtle, yet enveloping—warm but sheer. Amber, lightly sweet and resinous, serves as the transparent anchor here, blending with a whisper of vanilla and soft myrrh, which adds a trace of balsamic warmth and depth. The woods—Virginia cedar, Mysore sandalwood, and a breath of cinnamon—bring structure and complexity. Cedar imparts a clean, dry woodiness, while sandalwood offers a creamy, slightly sweet warmth. Cinnamon, used with a very gentle hand, adds a spiced hum in the background—warming but never overtaking the florals.

Altogether, Acte II en Fleurs feels like a sheer scarf of scent—graceful, modern, and quietly feminine. It dances on the skin rather than settling, never heavy, always fresh, and warm like skin lit by late afternoon sun. It’s a perfume that evokes polished ease and natural elegance, the olfactory equivalent of an ivory blouse, a summer breeze, and a smile you remember.

Fate of the Fragrance:

 

This fragrance is also discontinued.