What we now call “perfume caskets” were referred to in the 19th century as “scent cases,” and they embodied the height of refinement and luxury in personal grooming. These exquisite objects were most often acquired in Europe, with Paris being the preeminent center for their purchase. The famed shopping arcades of the Palais-Royal offered a dazzling array of luxury goods—fine jewelry, furs, art, and furniture—and among them, scent cases stood out as prized souvenirs. Crafted with elegance and precision, they were designed to hold perfume bottles securely within ornate boxes, often lined with velvet or satin, and encased in richly decorated exteriors of wood, enamel, tortoiseshell, or gilt bronze.
The peak period of scent case production fell during the reign of Napoleon III, between 1852 and 1870. This era saw a flourishing of decorative arts in France, with craftsmen creating highly imaginative and finely wrought objects that catered to the tastes of Europe’s wealthy elite. Scent cases perfectly reflected this world of refinement and indulgence—luxury items meant to be admired as much as they were used. Their beauty and craftsmanship made them ideal souvenirs for those embarking on the Grand Tour, a cultural pilgrimage that was an essential rite of passage for the privileged classes during the Victorian era.
The Grand Tour carried travelers through England, Paris, Switzerland, Southern France, and Italy, often by steamship and carriage. Inspired by great archaeological discoveries and a growing fascination with antiquity, these journeys were as much about education as they were about leisure. Young men, in particular, undertook these tours to expand their cultural horizons, but women of affluent families also participated, often under the watchful eye of relatives. For many, it was customary to bring back fine tokens of their travels—treasured keepsakes that captured the sophistication of Europe. Perfume cases, with their association with femininity, elegance, and luxury, were a natural choice for gifts to wives, sisters, or sweethearts waiting at home.
In this way, scent cases became not only cherished vanity items but also symbols of worldly experience, education, and social standing. To present such a gift was to bestow not merely a beautiful object, but a tangible reminder of European culture and refinement, distilled into a delicate casket filled with the luxury of perfume.
These charming little caskets were designed with travel in mind, yet they possessed a beauty that made them just as delightful displayed on a vanity table. Their exteriors were often crafted with great care, the most common covering being high-quality tooled leather, chosen for both its durability and elegance. Many were further embellished with decorative details such as brass studs, ivory knobs, or gleaming mother-of-pearl accents. Some examples were adorned with richly colored stone cabochons—onyx, malachite, or carnelian—not only as eye-catching decoration but also as practical shock absorbers, protecting the precious bottles inside from the bumps of travel. Others boasted plush velvet coverings or intricate marquetry, enhanced with pewter stringing, ivory, silver, or even gold, turning each case into a miniature work of art.
The interiors of these caskets were equally refined. Typically lined with soft velvet or shimmering silk, they were carefully fitted to hold bottles snugly in place. This thoughtful design ensured that the delicate glass flacons would remain secure during journeys, whether in the back of a jostling horse-drawn carriage or while crossing the seas aboard a schooner—two of the main modes of travel during the 19th century. Each bottle was made to nestle perfectly within its compartment, marrying beauty with function in a way that epitomized the elegance of the era.
The bottles themselves were sold empty, intended for the owner to fill with their own perfumes, scented vinegars (vinaigrettes), or smelling salts. It was common to see a pairing of a perfume or cologne bottle alongside a vial of smelling salts within the same case, reflecting both the luxury and the practicality of personal fragrance at the time. These little caskets thus served a dual purpose: they were indispensable tools for travel, ensuring one’s favorite scents were always within reach, and at the same time, they were exquisite objects of refinement, treasured for their beauty as much as for their utility.
These exquisite scent cases were generally crafted in France, reflecting the country’s long-standing reputation for luxury and refinement in perfumery. The cut crystal bottles they housed were fire-polished to achieve a perfectly smooth, tactile finish, sometimes enhanced with colored transparent or opaline glass that added a subtle glow. Shapes varied between slender cylinders and petite square forms, each designed to fit snugly within its compartment. The hinged flip caps were gilded brass, often fitted with delicate glass lenses that offered a glimpse of tiny miniature scenes beneath. These miniatures depicted famous landmarks and architectural icons—such as the Arc de Triomphe, Notre Dame Cathedral, the Parthenon, ornate fountains, palaces, and towers—rendered in a range of mediums including lithographed paper, verre églomisé (painted on the underside of the glass itself), or thin hand-painted ivory discs.
The bottles were secured with tiny ground glass stoppers, positioned so that the flip caps would hold them in place during transport, preventing perfume from leaking or spilling. Some perfume houses, such as Eugene Rimmel, even sold these leather-covered caskets complete with plush red velvet linings and two crystal bottles inside, creating a luxurious, ready-to-use ensemble for the discerning customer.
Other scent cases were made entirely from high-quality materials, including opaline glass, cut crystal, onyx, tortoiseshell panels, agate, marble, ivory, and ormolu. These were generally intended for display on a vanity table rather than travel, as their delicate construction made them too fragile to withstand the rigors of transport. Each case represented a marriage of beauty and function, combining meticulous craftsmanship with artistic flourishes, turning even a simple daily ritual of perfume application into an experience of elegance and refinement.
During the late 19th century, these perfume caskets were widely accessible to a discerning clientele, not only through the famed shopping arcades of Paris’s Palais-Royal, but also via perfumery boutiques, jewelry shops, catalogs, and even magazine advertisements such as those in Youth’s Companion. These caskets combined practicality with refined aesthetics, serving both as travel companions and as decorative objects for the vanity table.
An 1880 issue of Youth’s Companion highlighted three notable examples of Russia leather caskets. The Russia Leather Perfume Case No. 170 featured three cut glass bottles housed in a rich red leather case, lined with satin for an elegant interior. Nickel hinges and matching nickel-bound edges added durability while maintaining refinement. The Russia Leather Perfume Case No. 270 was similarly crafted, with satin silk lining and two cut glass bottles, described as a handsome ornament for the toilet—a reflection of the era’s emphasis on beauty and presentation in daily grooming. Finally, the Russia Leather Perfume Case No. 570 was celebrated for its elegance and precision in finish, combining nickel trimmings with touches of gold and silver metal ornamentation atop the case. Measuring a compact 3 by 4 inches, it contained two richly designed cut glass bottles, embodying the blend of functionality and ornamental sophistication that typified luxury personal accessories of the time.
These examples illustrate not only the meticulous craftsmanship of the period but also the cultural importance placed on personal fragrance, vanity rituals, and the subtle display of taste and refinement among the upper classes.
Perfume caskets from the 19th and early 20th centuries represent an extraordinary diversity of design and craftsmanship, making them highly collectible yet virtually impossible for any one individual to fully assemble. Each casket is a unique work of art, reflecting the materials, aesthetic trends, and technical ingenuity of its era.
At their core, all caskets were constructed from wood, providing a sturdy and lightweight framework. However, the outer coverings vary widely, offering a rich display of artistry and luxury. Some caskets were wrapped in boule tortoiseshell, prized for its natural warmth, translucence, and striking mottled pattern. Others were covered in papier-mâché, which allowed for intricate molded or painted decoration at a lower cost, or in ivory, lending an air of rarity and elegance. Early forms of plastic were also employed, demonstrating the integration of modern materials into traditional craftsmanship. Additional variations included bronze coverings, which provided a durable and ornamental finish, or velvet, which offered softness and tactile luxury.
This incredible range in materials and finishes meant that each casket not only served a practical function but also became a statement of style, taste, and wealth. The unique combinations of wood, covering, and decorative techniques make every casket a singular object, a miniature work of art designed to delight both the eye and the senses.
To purchase or find out more about the caskets shown in this guide, please click on the numbered link with the corresponding number on photo.
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