Cuir de Chasse by Etienne Aigner (1963)

No. 1 Cuir de Chasse by Etienne Aigner, launched in 1963, carries a name steeped in tradition and luxury. The phrase "Cuir de Chasse" is French, translating to "hunting leather" in English and pronounced as "kweer duh shahss." The term conjures images of rugged elegance, evoking the scent of finely crafted leather goods, such as saddles or hunting gear, long associated with the outdoors and an active lifestyle. In choosing this name, Aigner tapped into an age-old connection between leather, luxury, and adventure, creating a fragrance that appeals to women seeking a scent that conveys strength, sophistication, and a casual sense of refinement.

Cuir de Chasse, being a leather fragrance for women, suggests a bold, assertive scent profile, with the rich, earthy tones of leather possibly accented by aromatic and woody notes. Leather as a fragrance note typically evokes warmth, durability, and depth, often associated with high-quality materials. The fragrance's classification as "casual" aligns with the idea of effortless elegance—perfect for women who desired to make a statement without being overly formal or ornate. At the time, this kind of scent may have appealed to women embracing a modern sense of individuality and independence, offering an alternative to the more floral or powdery fragrances dominating the market in the early 1960s.

The 1960s was a decade of cultural shifts, where traditional gender roles were being redefined, and women were asserting more independence in both the professional and personal spheres. Against this backdrop, Cuir de Chasse stood out by offering a leather-based fragrance—typically seen as masculine in perfumery—reimagined for women. Leather fragrances were already gaining popularity among men, but Aigner’s bold move to market Cuir de Chasse as a women’s scent was a departure from the floral and aldehydic perfumes that had been the standard for women in previous decades. This fragrance embodied a growing trend towards gender-neutral or androgynous elements in fashion and scent, catering to women who wanted to break away from traditional norms.

Etienne Aigner, the designer behind the fragrance, was well-known for his mastery of leather craftsmanship, primarily in luxury handbags, belts, and accessories. Born in Hungary and later moving to France, Aigner made his mark in the fashion industry with his signature leather creations. The connection to leather is intrinsic to the Aigner brand, and his expertise in working with high-quality leathers naturally translated into his fragrance line, where Cuir de Chasse became a reflection of the designer’s legacy. The name also honors Aigner's love for equestrian sports and the elegant practicality associated with hunting attire, traditionally made from the finest leathers.

By launching Cuir de Chasse, Etienne Aigner not only expanded his brand into the world of perfumery but also offered women of the time an unconventional scent that bridged the gap between rugged luxury and feminine allure. It stood apart from the opulent florals and dominant aldehydes of its era, reflecting the designer’s deep-rooted connection to leather and his understanding of how it could be both casual and luxurious at the same time.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Cuir de Chasse by Etienne Aigner is classified as a leather fragrance for women.  

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Amalfi lemon, Italian orange
• Middle notes: Turkish rose, Grasse jasmine, Manila ylang ylang, Florentine orris, Zanzibar clove, Arabian opoponax
• Base notes: Russian birch tar, Sumatran styrax, Canadian castoreum, Virginian cedar, Haitian vetiver, Tonkin musk, Abyssinian civet, Siam benzoin, Spanish labdanum, ambergris, Tyrolean oakmoss

Scent Profile:

Cuir de Chasse by Etienne Aigner is not simply a leather fragrance—it is a vivid, olfactive hunt through wooded trails, flowered clearings, and animalic shadows. It opens like the crack of dawn on a leather saddle, sharp and radiant, then unfolds into a sensuous, dark wilderness cloaked in animal warmth and earthy richness. Each note is selected with storytelling intent, invoking the untamed elegance of pursuit.

The fragrance opens with a sparkling aldehydic lift, bright and silvery, diffusing like mist rising off dew-covered leaves. These aldehydes—synthetic molecules that add a shimmering, effervescent effect—mimic the freshness of air and impart a soapy, champagne-like sparkle. Their sharpness is softened by Calabrian bergamot, citrus oil cold-pressed from fruit grown along Italy’s Ionian coast. Calabrian bergamot is revered for its smooth, green freshness—less harsh than other citruses, with delicate floral and tea-like undertones. It blends effortlessly with Amalfi lemon, which brings brightness and clarity. The lemons from Italy’s Amalfi Coast yield an oil that is crisp and slightly sweet, with an almost sherbet-like effervescence. Italian orange, likely sweet orange, adds roundness—a touch of honeyed warmth that grounds the top in natural sweetness.

Then the leather heart begins to flex. Turkish rose, lush and fruity, lends a velvety sensuality, its petals heavy with jammy facets, while Grasse jasmine offers indolic richness—floral, creamy, and slightly animalic. Grown in the world’s perfume capital, this jasmine smells sun-ripened and full-bodied, its sweetness bolstered by Manila ylang ylang, one of the most potent ylang oils in the world. It smells like golden cream—tropical, almost custard-like, with a subtle spice that dances with Zanzibar clove. The clove, rich in eugenol, punctuates the florals with a dry, peppery bite, not fiery but quietly assertive. Florentine orris, the dried and aged rhizome of the iris plant, smells of violet and suede. Its powdery coolness tempers the heady florals, adding a pale, velvety elegance, while Arabian opoponax—sweet myrrh—adds a balsamic richness with hints of honeyed resin and warm spice.

The base is where the hunt ends—in leather, earth, and animal. Russian birch tar is the true soul of the leather accord. Its scent is unmistakable: sharp, smoky, and tarry, with a primitive tang that evokes worn saddles and singed wood. Its acrid depth is rounded by Sumatran styrax, a resin that adds a dense, balsamic sweetness with hints of cinnamon and plum. Canadian castoreum, a traditional note derived historically from beaver glands, is today usually replicated with a complex blend of animalic musks and resins. It smells dark and slightly smoky, with leathery warmth and a suggestion of fur. Alongside it, Abyssinian civet, also now typically recreated with musky molecules, adds a pungent, musky sharpness that feels intimate, primal.

Wood notes ground the composition: Virginian cedar offers pencil-shaving dryness and clarity, while Haitian vetiver—regarded as the finest in the world—provides an earthy, rooty green bitterness, like scorched soil and moss-covered bark. Siam benzoin adds a sweet, vanillic warmth, glowing amber-like with a resinous softness. Spanish labdanum, sticky and tenacious, smells like leather soaked in incense—ambery, smoky, and thick. Its warmth is mirrored by ambergris, most likely reconstituted from Ambroxan or Cetalox, which lends a marine saltiness and skin-like diffusion. Tonkin musk, originally from deer and now created via clean synthetic musks, gives a musky sensuality—soft, warm, and lingering. Finally, Tyrolean oakmoss, grown in the alpine regions of Austria, adds a final note of damp forest floor, mineralic and green, grounding the entire composition in nature’s shadowy hush.

Together, these materials create not just a fragrance but an experience—Cuir de Chasse smells like the wind carrying the scent of saddle leather, wet earth, and crushed petals. It is bold but elegant, and deeply animalic, softened by florals and resins. This is a perfume that clings to skin like worn suede, and smells of both pursuit and capture.

Product Line:

The Cuir de Chasse fragrance line by Etienne Aigner offered a wide range of products, tailored to suit various personal preferences and occasions, reflecting the brand's commitment to providing luxury and versatility. At the heart of the collection was the parfum, available in multiple sizes to cater to both casual wearers and perfume connoisseurs. The parfum came in 1/8 oz, 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, and 1 oz bottles, providing options for those seeking a small, elegant splash of scent as well as those looking for a more indulgent and long-lasting experience. The variety of sizes made it accessible for daily use or as a luxurious gift, while the parfum’s higher concentration promised a rich, enduring fragrance.

Complementing the parfum were the eau de cologne splash bottles, which were available in 2 oz, 4 oz, and 8 oz sizes, as well as an impressive 1 pint after-shower cologne splash. These larger sizes were perfect for those who favored a lighter, more refreshing application of scent throughout the day. The splash-style bottle encouraged a more generous use of the cologne, making it ideal for refreshing after a bath or shower, fitting with Aigner's branding of the fragrance as casual yet sophisticated. The colognes were designed to provide a subtler scent that could be layered or worn alone for a refreshing, everyday fragrance.

The line also included a selection of bath oils, available in 1/4 oz and 1/2 oz bottles, which enhanced the luxurious experience of the collection. The bath oil, with its nourishing and fragrant properties, was designed for indulgent self-care moments, transforming an ordinary bath into a lavish ritual. The oils allowed the wearer to enjoy the Cuir de Chasse fragrance in a softer, more intimate way, as the warm water would release the scent delicately into the air while also moisturizing the skin.

Together, these offerings created a well-rounded fragrance line, allowing consumers to immerse themselves in the luxurious world of Cuir de Chasse through various products that catered to different needs, from concentrated parfum to lighter colognes and rich bath oils. This extensive product line demonstrated Etienne Aigner's attention to detail and commitment to providing a range of options to suit different lifestyles and preferences.

Bottles:

The bottle design for Cuir de Chasse by Etienne Aigner was a reflection of the brand's core identity, blending simplicity with refined craftsmanship. The parfum bottle, in particular, was cleverly shaped to resemble a spool of thread, an homage to Aigner’s fashion heritage and his connection to luxury leather goods. This unique spool design highlighted both elegance and practicality, nodding to the world of couture, where fabric and craftsmanship are intertwined. What truly set the bottles apart was the use of genuine leather for the labels, reinforcing Aigner’s dedication to the material that defined his brand. The leather wrap gave the packaging an artisanal feel, creating a tactile connection to the fragrance itself, which evoked the richness and warmth of leather.

The stopper of the parfum bottle was adorned with the Etienne Aigner logo in gilded metal, adding a touch of opulence to the otherwise minimalist design. The use of gold contrasted beautifully with the clear glass and leather, making the bottle a luxurious accessory in its own right. The attention to detail in the stopper further emphasized the brand's commitment to elegance and high-quality materials,

The bottles used for Cuir de Chasse colognes were designed with simplicity and sophistication in mind. These clear glass cylindrical bottles embodied a minimalist aesthetic, allowing the rich golden hue of the cologne to be the focal point. The sleek, straight lines of the bottle were paired with gilded screwcaps, adding a subtle touch of luxury without overpowering the overall design. The use of clear glass highlighted the purity of the fragrance, while the gilded details provided a refined finish, characteristic of Etienne Aigner’s understated yet elegant style.

For the bath oils, the bottles were similarly designed with clear cylindrical glass, but with a notable difference in shape. The bottles featured gracefully sloping shoulders, giving them a softer, more fluid silhouette compared to the straight cylindrical form of the cologne bottles. This design choice not only differentiated the bath oils from the colognes but also evoked a sense of luxury and indulgence associated with bath-time rituals. The combination of clean lines and gentle curves maintained the brand's minimalist aesthetic while adding a touch of elegance to the bath oil packaging. Both bottles were designed to complement one another, creating a cohesive visual identity across the product line, while reflecting Aigner’s signature blend of craftsmanship and refined simplicity.

Fate of the Fragrance:

No. 1 Cuir de Chasse by Etienne Aigner, launched in 1963, represents an enigmatic chapter in the history of perfumery. Despite its bold introduction, the fragrance remains a hidden gem, with its date of discontinuation unknown. This air of mystery adds to its allure, as the perfume seems to have quietly slipped into obscurity over the years, becoming one of the rarest finds in the world of vintage fragrances.

Its scarcity today makes it an object of desire for collectors and connoisseurs who appreciate the craftsmanship of leather fragrances from the mid-20th century. Despite its limited presence in today’s market, No. 1 Cuir de Chasse still resonates with those who remember the elegance and rugged charm of the scent, but finding a bottle has become a challenge for even the most determined fragrance enthusiasts.

The elusive nature of No. 1 Cuir de Chasse has only enhanced its appeal, as stories of its rich, leather-bound scent continue to intrigue those who seek the distinctive compositions of Etienne Aigner. Its obscurity makes it a rare treasure, a piece of olfactory history that echoes an era where leather fragrances for women were both audacious and sophisticated.