Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese (1965)

Launched in 1965, Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese—then under the umbrella of Revlon—was named with intention, passion, and heritage. The word Fiamma (pronounced FYA-mah) is Italian for "flame." It is a name that smolders with emotion, evoking vivid imagery of firelight, embers, passion, intensity, and inner warmth. In choosing this name, Princess Marcella Borghese not only referenced her Italian roots, but also imbued the perfume with symbolic meaning: a fragrance meant to ignite the senses, stir the emotions, and linger like a glowing flame at dusk.The mid-1960s were a time of elegant rebellion. The decade straddled two eras—the restrained glamour of the postwar 1950s and the free-spirited revolution soon to take hold in the 1970s. By 1965, women were asserting their independence through fashion, music, art, and fragrance. Youth culture was on the rise, yet there remained a strong appetite for sophistication and sensuality. Couture fashion still reigned in cities like Paris and Rome, and beauty ideals blended modern sleekness with timeless allure.

In this context, Fiamma arrived as a floral oriental fragrance, a classification that held great appeal during this period. It was not a brash or overly exotic oriental, but a refined and approachable interpretation: a warm composition of exotic flowers, sweet woods, and nuanced spices, softened by the idea of distant lands and "far eastern essences." The description suggests a blend that is both elegant and evocative, transporting the wearer through fragrance to somewhere warm, distant, and romantic.

For the women of 1965, Fiamma would have spoken to both glamour and strength. It was a scent that embraced warmth and sensuality, but with elegance rather than excess. Its name, meaning flame, could be interpreted not only as romantic passion but as a metaphor for female vitality and power—a fitting fragrance for women poised between tradition and transformation.

In the wider context of perfumery, Fiamma aligned with the popular themes of the time while offering its own distinctive voice. The early to mid-1960s saw a surge in floral orientals—fragrances that combined femininity with a hint of mystery. Yet Fiamma’s Italian identity and Princess Marcella Borghese’s regal branding gave it a unique position. It stood apart from the French-dominated market by offering a Mediterranean take on exoticism, and in doing so, it quietly blazed its own trail.

Launched quietly in the mid-1960s, Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese arrived with an air of quiet elegance and deliberate sophistication. Unlike more brashly promoted fragrances of the time, Fiamma made its debut subtly—yet with unmistakable presence. The name itself, Italian for "flame," encapsulated the fragrance's character: passionate, warm, and smoldering, yet refined. It was described as a scent in tune with strong personal traits—woody, floral, and unmistakably spiced—suggesting a fragrance that revealed itself slowly, like heat rising from embers rather than bursting into fire. This thoughtful, layered development reflected Borghese’s emphasis on artistry and restraint.

Town & Country noted in 1965 that Fiamma took years to develop—a nod to the extensive time, research, and craftsmanship often required to perfect such a scent. The outcome was not simply a perfume but a personality: one that resonated with complexity and depth. With floral tones softened by woody warmth and made intriguing by a distinct spiciness, Fiamma was no mere accessory—it was a fragrance meant to linger, both in scent and impression. Vogue described its American arrival in spring of 1966 as nothing short of an "inflammatory substance,” fanning—not extinguishing—the fires of desire.

By 1967, Fiamma had earned its place alongside Ecco in the Borghese fragrance family, both housed in striking Carrara marble-inspired packaging. This design choice was not arbitrary: it reflected the brand’s Roman heritage and conjured the cool elegance of classical sculpture. Where Ecco was soft, radiant, and herbaceous—the eternal woman—Fiamma was its smoldering counterpart: “fiery brilliancy,” described Harper’s Bazaar, “indefinably feminine and sophisticated.” The contrast between the two perfumes formed a deliberate duality within the Borghese line—day and night, serenity and passion, moonlight and flame.

By 1968, Fiamma extended beyond perfume into a broader range of luxurious products, including a floral-scented candle in a sculptural white ceramic vessel—further underscoring the brand’s emphasis on beauty as a complete sensory experience. By the early 1970s, Fiamma had become a fully developed fragrance line. According to trademark documentation from 1972, the Fiamma name was registered for use in a wide array of products: perfume, perfume oil, toilet water, bath oil, and dusting powder. Even the language used in the filing reflected its multiple meanings—“flame, blaze, fire,” but also “pennant,” “military collar facings,” and in the figurative sense, “lover” or “mistress.” Each interpretation suited the scent's persona—sensual, commanding, and unforgettable.

As with many heritage fragrances, Fiamma eventually slipped from production, but it remains an evocative symbol of a time when perfumes were made to tell stories. It captured the essence of a confident woman who knew her power, but wore it like velvet—quiet, enveloping, and warm.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. A sophisticated, light oriental with a warm blend of exotic flowers, sweet woods, heady spices and other far eastern essences.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Italian neroli, Dutch hyacinth, Alpine lily of the valley and Persian galbanum
• Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, Italian jasmine, Sicilian orange blossom, Grasse heliotrope, Tuscan violet, Florentine orris, Indian carnation, Zanzibar clove
• Base notes: Haitian vetiver, Tyrolean oakmoss, Indonesian patchouli, Virginian cedar, Mysore sandalwood, Brazilian rosewood, Madagascar vanilla, Siam benzoin, ambergris, Maltese labdanum, Canadian castoreum, Tonkin musk

Scent Profile:

Immersing yourself in Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese is like wandering into a glowing, incense-lit atrium at dusk—sultry, refined, and gently infused with mystery. It opens with a shimmer of aldehydes, those effervescent, almost metallic compounds that instantly sweep you into clarity—imagine sunlight dancing on polished marble. Grounded by Calabrian bergamot—bright yet mellow, hailing from Italy’s sun-drenched groves—and softened by honeyed Italian neroli, there's a distinctly Mediterranean freshness. Exotic Dutch hyacinth adds a watery floral sweetness, while Alpine lily of the valley whispers green freshness with dewy grassiness. Then comes a sharp verdant edge from Persian galbanum, full-bodied and resinous, conjuring crushed stems and forest sap—a natural aroma amplified by subtle synthetics for a modern, wearable clarity.

The heart of Fiamma unfolds like a rich bouquet. Bulgarian rose stands out first—a lush and opulent variety produced in Bulgaria’s storied Rose Valley, revered for its depth and velvety nuance, a rare global treasure. Accompanying it, Italian jasmine brings creamy warmth, supported by Sicilian orange blossom, pure and radiant. French Grasse heliotrope adds powdery vanilla tones, juxtaposed with the violet flowers of Tuscan violet and earthy Florentine orris, whose root-derived powder, aged for years, introduces a cool, buttery elegance—and a nod to one of perfumery’s most precious ingredients . Dashes of Indian carnation, Zanzibar clove, and Ceylon cinnamon evoke the historic spice routes, adding a soft spice glow, spicy yet refined.

As Fiamma dries, its base unfolds into a luxurious tapestry. Haitian vetiver lends smoky-rooted earthiness; Tyrolean oakmoss, harvested from the Alpine forests of Austria, gives a cool, mossy verdure and depth—imagine a lichen-covered mountainside after rain. Indonesian patchouli offers an herbal-woody backbone, while Virginian cedar sharpens with crisp wood facets. Mysore sandalwood, legendary for its creamy richness, blends seamlessly with exotic Brazilian rosewood, producing an incense-like smoothness. Madagascar vanilla adds rich sweetness, anchored by Siam benzoin—warm, resinous, slightly smoky.

But it's the animalic and resinous notes that give Fiamma its intimate sophistication: ambergris—whether natural or synthetic—brings marine-tinged, skin-like warmth; Maltese labdanum contributes leathery, amber richness; Canadian castoreum, derived from North American beaver glands, delivers a dark, animalic leather with smoky depth and a hint of dried fruit. Finally, Tonkin musk adds a discreet, powdery finish—soft, enveloping, and long-lasting. Fiamma is an olfactory flame—bright yet sensual, structured yet soft. The contrast between sparkling openings and its deep, embered base mirrors its Italian name: Fiamma (pronounced FYA-mah), meaning “flame.” It evokes sparks, warmth, and energy—like the amber glow of candlelight against stone walls.

In the mid-1960s, when Fiamma was launched, perfumery was shifting from simple florals to richer, more exotic orientals. While bold orientals were emerging, Fiamma offered a softer, more sophisticated interpretation—layered and elegant rather than overpowering. In this light, it stood alongside other floral-oriental but claimed uniqueness through its precise use of Mediterranean and exotic ingredients, and its Italian lineage under Princess Borghese’s refined touch. Fiamma wasn’t just wearable—it was the scent of a quietly passionate luxury: deeply rich yet gracefully balanced, speaking to a confident modern elegance that continues to glow with quiet intensity.

Product Line:

Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese was more than just a fragrance—it was conceived as an all-encompassing olfactory ritual. Introduced in the mid-1960s, Fiamma (Italian for “flame”) embodied warmth, sophistication, and feminine intensity. The product line was carefully developed to translate the fragrance's rich, floral-oriental composition into various concentrations and formats, allowing for a personalized scent experience that could be adapted throughout the day, across seasons, and even to match different moods or occasions.

High-Concentration Formats

The Parfum (Extrait) was the heart of the Fiamma collection, offered in 1 oz and ½ oz sizes. This purest form delivered the fullest expression of the fragrance’s intricate structure—beginning with bright citrus and green aldehydes, unfolding into a lush floral heart of jasmine, rose, clary sage, and possibly carnation or ylang-ylang, then settling into a sensual drydown marked by sandalwood, musk, civet, amber, and spices. Just a dab would linger for hours, wrapping the wearer in a rich and lasting veil—perfect for evening wear or intimate settings.

The Profumo Mist (1 oz and ¼ oz) was a slightly lighter interpretation, though still potent. Delivered via atomizer, it created a soft cloud of scent rather than the concentrated touch of the extrait. While it retained the character of the parfum, the mist’s projection was more diffuse, making it suitable for daytime sophistication or a more modern, spray-on approach.

The Perfume Oil was another intimate version of Fiamma, alcohol-free and skin-friendly. It emphasized the deeper elements—resins, musks, and woods—with the florals and top notes softened by the oil base. Warming on contact with skin, it developed a plush, quietly tenacious sillage. Especially ideal for those with dry or sensitive skin, this format allowed for discreet yet deeply felt fragrance.

Everyday Eau de Parfum & Cologne Formats

The Aerosol Acqua di Profumo (3.8 oz) brought the fragrance into a more liberal, everyday context. A full-body spray, it emphasized freshness while retaining much of Fiamma’s complexity. This format was ideal for warmer months or occasions when a more effusive presence was desired without overwhelming.

The Natural Spray Mist (2 oz) was more portable and lighter in intensity. Though still concentrated, it lacked the aerosol’s full-body distribution, making it perfect for focused application—neck, wrists, décolleté. The Purse Spray (5/16 oz) delivered this same formula in a miniature size, a chic companion for on-the-go touchups, ideal for evenings out or travel.

Cologne formats—Spray Cologne (4 oz) and Cologne Splash (17 oz)—were sheerest of all, emphasizing the sparkling, airy elements of the fragrance. These versions dialed down the animalics and spice, allowing the green herbs, aldehydes, and soft florals to shine. Used liberally, they refreshed the skin and served as a lovely base for layering stronger products. They were particularly suitable for summer use or for those who preferred a lighter touch.

Bath & Body Rituals

Bathing in Fiamma was both literal and sensory. The Milk Bath, offered in 8, 16, or 32 oz bottles, was a highlight of the line. Its pale green color and velvety texture turned bathwater into a fragrant, skin-softening indulgence. It released the perfume’s lighter notes—green stems, gentle florals, and woods—in warm steam, enhancing relaxation while delicately scenting the skin.

Shower Gel and Scented Soap provided more practical forms of cleansing, offering a fresh start to any day. The soap was traditional and elegant, while the gel was more contemporary in texture and performance. Both created a clean, fragrant base layer for later application of parfum or lotion.

After Bath Lotion (9 oz) and Satina Balm (3 oz) addressed post-cleansing moisture. The lotion was a lighter emulsion, quickly absorbed and subtly scented. It was ideal for daily use. In contrast, the balm was dense and emollient—satiny and long-wearing. It not only nourished the skin but also helped fix the fragrance, extending its wear and intensifying its warmth.

The Dusting Powder (5 oz), softly scented and talc-based, offered vintage charm and tactile pleasure. It left the skin smooth and dry, perfect for summer or evening prep. Its fine texture and close-to-skin scent diffusion made it an understated but enduring option, redolent of old-world femininity.

On-the-Go Elegance

The solid perfume formats—Gold-Tone Compact (5.5 g) and Coin Locket (5 g)—were the most personal iterations. Their waxy bases warmed on skin, releasing the perfume gradually. The compact was both functional and decorative, a mirror-equipped accessory ideal for a handbag. The coin-style solid was minimalist and discreet, lending itself to subtle touch-ups that felt almost ritualistic.

While all formats carried the Fiamma DNA, the olfactory emphasis varied. The parfum and oil were richest and most nuanced—full of animalic base notes and floral heart. The eaux and colognes drew attention to the citrusy, herbal, and green aldehydic openings, making them brighter and more casual. Bath and body products brought a more diffuse, gentle interpretation—ideal for layering, with less longevity but lovely trail. Solid perfumes softened the sharper edges, blending notes into a smooth, consistent warmth.

Fiamma was not just one fragrance—it was a fragrance wardrobe. Whether dabbed on as extrait, splashed after bathing, misted for daytime confidence, or worn as a whisper from a compact, each format expressed a different mood and nuance of the scent. Together, they formed a symphony of self-expression, grounded in the concept of flame: a source of warmth, light, and enduring beauty.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese was launched in 1965, quietly introduced but quickly recognized for its warmth, elegance, and complexity. The name Fiamma, meaning "flame" in Italian, was not chosen lightly—it symbolized the smoldering, passionate character of the scent, described by contemporary editors as fiery, sensual, and unmistakably feminine. As early as 1965, Town & Country noted its woody, spicy, and floral notes, emphasizing the seductive heat that aligned with its name.

Despite the bold and distinctive olfactory profile, Fiamma never shouted for attention—it whispered. It cultivated a loyal following among women who preferred sophistication with an undercurrent of drama. Throughout the 1960s and 1970s, it was often praised in beauty editorials and department store catalogs for its luxurious presentation and richly layered scent. Offered in a wide range of formats—from concentrated parfum to everyday bath and body products—Fiamma was positioned as a fragrance to live with, not just wear.

While the official discontinuation date remains unknown, evidence confirms that Fiamma was still being sold at least as late as 1992. By that time, it had already endured nearly three decades in a competitive and fast-changing fragrance market—an impressive lifespan that speaks to its enduring appeal. However, like many classic scents of the era, it eventually slipped quietly from production, likely due to a combination of evolving consumer tastes, increasing regulatory restrictions on ingredients, and changing brand priorities under Revlon’s ownership.

Today, vintage bottles of Fiamma are sought after by collectors and perfume lovers who remember—or wish to discover—its timeless warmth and sophistication.